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Found 12 results

  1. I can’t find any answers in the forum or heat press manual (that works) to change from celsius to fahrenheit. I tried following directions word for word from manual, but the celsius temperature indicator remains lit no matter what. To make matters worse, I attempted to hold the ‘set’ button which generated unknown (to me) setting parameters that I changed using the arrow buttons. I can find no information about these ‘advanced’ settings that I changed inadvertently. So my questions are: 1. Is there a way to ‘factory reset’ the heat press? 2. Is there a source of information about the advanced settings that aren’t mentioned in manual? 3. Is there a correct way to switch from celsius to fahrenheit that works? (The manual instructions do not work as written.) Again, I have the digital Transfora 15x15 heat press. Thank you.
  2. What are the proper settings for the "force"? What difference do the settings make?
  3. I have an mh871 cutter, I am trying to find the settings on speed and pressure to cut vinyl glitter, can someone help me. Thanks
  4. Alphamisfits

    Small pieces pulling up! Help please!

    Hi I'm still fairly new to this , originally I was using a 45 degree blade and I watched some videos and got everything good and have been cutting good for quite awhile but now I felt the blade should be changed ( not sure) so I put in a new 45 degree blade and ran a test which I thought was good . It cut the vinyl and didn't cut the wax paper but now it's starting to pull small pieces up here and there , I have had this happen like maybe 1 spot here in there no biggie but now I just got like 7-8 spots on my last 12x12 cut . Any ideas what I'm doing wrong n how to fix it.
  5. Hi there - I got a Titan 2 for Christmas and was really bummed at the lack of instructions / guidance that came with the machine. I contacted support and was supposed to get a sheet of paper that directed me to links to see the manual, and guides, but my machine didn't come with that. I was able to find information online (but it was really scattered about and is still lacking the kind of instructions I am looking for). I feel like I'm shooting in the dark. I had to search around to figure out how to move the rollers. I saw someone post something in this forum about reading the manual - but the manual doesn't say anything about HOW to move the rollers or that the Titan 2 rollers are evidently really difficult to move (as I found in another post). I also had a tremendous amount of frustration with setting up the stand as the video I found was moving so fast my husband and I had to keep pausing and rewinding the video over and over and over to figure out how to get it together (this was from the us cutter Vimeo page). This is my very first vinyl cutter. I had never seen one in person or see how it was used other than a few videos on YouTube. I have a CO2 laser that came with videos, an incredible manual and tons of online support. What I was hoping I could get with this machine was a cheat sheet of sorts that gives you some basic setting starting points for different vinyl materials. I use my cheat sheet with my CO2 laser every time I start cutting / engraving new materials. It gives me a baseline to start from that I can tweak / test from there. Do you guys have anything like that for Vinyl cutting with this machine? I've included a picture of my laser's cheat sheet so you can see what I'm talking about. Thanks in advance for your help. Sorry if I come off as a little whiny. I really want to learn how this machine works, but feel like I got this awesome device and it's totally up to me to figure it out (via a TON of searching around online). Lolly
  6. I've just set up my new Titan2 and looked through all of the info I can find (it came from USCutter with 0 paperwork and info so what I know, I found online). I've set the starting point, but for some reason, it keeps cutting off the edge of my piece of vinyl. I'm using a PC with VinylMaster and feel like I'm wasting a lot of material with my trial end error approach.
  7. I'm just posting this in the Copam section in case it helps someone in the future getting their CP-2500 cutter to work via USB connection in SignGo 1.20 FD (or just Light or Pro version without dongle) in Windows 7 64bit (It will work on 32 bit too). Long story short, it turns out the default settings for the driver are incorrect. So when you install the Copam CP-2500 driver during initial installation (or even Generic HPGL drivers) there needs to be a modification made to the END: form input field under the Commands tab to get it to work. By default it comes with PU;IN; (Pen Up and Initialize) commands in that field. The correct settings for the cutter to cut via USB connection are PU;!PG;; (notice the exclaimation mark and TWO semi-colons). After that, it will work. For the record, here is the thread I worked through with SignGo's author Kevin Wallace to solve this problem. Note: in order to get the CUT icon in the SignGo GUI (graphical user interface) to not be greyed out and be enabled and to subsequently be able to adjust your cutter settings, you need to draw something on the canvas first so use a square or star and put it anywhere on the canvas. Then you will be able to select the Cut icon and from there it's pretty evident with what I'm talking about adjusting commands. Here are ALL the Commands for the Copam to work via USB connection (notice the bold End: area) Initialize: IN; Start plot: PA; Start cut: PA; Reset: IN; Move: PU#,#; Line: PD#,#; Bezier curve: (BLANK FIELD) End: PU;!PG;; Set origin: PU;PA#,#;PG0; Set depth: (BLANK FIELD) Set speed: VS#; Select pen: SP#; Get plotting area: OH;PU; Get Head Position: OA; UNCHECKED BOX for Uses Multiple Points In Line Command and therefore its Start line, Continue line and End of line fields are greyed out. However, it does also work with the BOX CHECKED for Multiple Points In Line Command too. Also, when you install your COM# (# being a number assigned by the computer), make sure your port settings in the Control Panel > Device Manager > Ports on Windows 7 are set to 9600 Bits/sec, 8 Data bits, Parity None, Stop bits 1, and Flow control is set to Hardware. In SignGo's Communication Tab: Make sure things are set to 9600 Bits/sec, 8 Data bits, Parity None, Stop bits 1, Flow control DTR/DSR is checked and RTS/CTS is checked. XON/OFF is NOT checked. Timeout is 60 seconds. This should help get things working.
  8. I'm just getting started with a vinyl cutter of my own, having used them before at work years ago. However, at work everything was all set-up already and I never adjusted any settings nor did I need to know more then how to export to a cutter to make things happen. Now, I've purchased the US Cutter MH MK2 and I'm having so much trouble making my design cut properly. It starts out okay, and then seems to lose track of itself and starts overcutting. I am guessing the reason why is because I need to better understand my software and how it is I'm sending it to cut, because the cutter is fresh out of the box and should not have any issues (I didn't change a single setting). My main problem is that the help manuals and guides are all useless at explaining what each setting does. Useless might not actually be a strong enough word it's so bad... So, I ventured to Google and tried there to no avail. I'm hoping that some seasoned folks here can help explain the settings to me, so I can better understand what it is I'm doing and maybe solve my issues. Here are my basic setting questions: 1. What is blade offset, and how does it affect cutting? 2. Is Overcut literally just how much beyond my lines it will go to get a complete cut? If not, then what is it? 3. What is baud and how does it affect cutting? 4. Do registartion marks change where it cuts? I'm used to placing a box around what I'm cutting to weed off so I can find where I need to put my transfer paper... 5. How does Jog distance affect cutting? So essentially, I have no idea what the cutter settings do, so I'm unable to determine if these are, in fact, what's causing me woes in trying to get my design to work properly. I'm pretty sure it's not the design itself, as I crafted it in CorelDraw X4, and made to weld everything together so there are no overlapping objects, and then get it down so I have one object that's my design, and one object that's a box to be my perimeter mark so I know where to cut it to line it up right for precision application. Exported it to .svg so I could get it into SCALP, because when the export didn't work from CorelDraw X4 for cutting I figured it was just a program thing... but SCALP didn't cut it right either (though it did do better than CorelDraw). Any help would be greatly appreciated, even if you just give me a link to a manual that explains what it is I'm asking about, because I've been unsuccessful with that as well. Thanks in advance!
  9. j.ldesigns

    IMG 2450

    From the album: help

    need help setting settings for a 45 degree blade i just can't get it right.
  10. Nee help on cutter settings fir glitter vinyl. Speed/ press? How do i put blade at 60 degree angle.
  11. Hi everyone, It's been almost a month since I started making decals and one thing I have noticed is that no matter how high of a quality your file is, if you don't have your settings setup properly, your decal will not come out well. For every decal that will be made, I have to customize the settings: contrast, soften, optimize, etc. It's a real pain when you have to make the same decal over and over to figure out which settings are best. What I want to know is: are there guidelines or best practices to adhere to when it comes to making decals, specifically with Sure Cuts A Lot, of course? What is the best file type to use? What should I set the contrast, smoothness, optimization to? Do I always have to customize those options for every decal? How do you do it?
  12. I'm trying to make our vinyl backdrops as flat as possible. I'm using profile "Vinyl 2" and have the ink consumption set at 100-125. It's the flattest finish I've gotten so far. Wondering if anyone knows a better profile with better settings for a Roland Versa Art RE-640 ?