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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/17/2024 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I've tried different vector software, and so far, I've found that Inkscape produces the cleanest results, truer to the raster image than other vector engines. The only other software that I found to be better is Vector Magic, but Vector Magic is not free, but it can do colors. You can give this a try since you're getting into embroidery: https://inkstitch.org/
  2. 1 point
    an alternative would be to post one of the files, so another forum member can try cutting it and seeing what kind results we get. i agree with skeeter to see if another software will do the same thing.
  3. 1 point
    [Hello, how can I deactivate my Sigmaster from another computer? My PC was stolen and I don't remember my email.] Póngase en contacto directamente con el fabricante del software para ello. [Contact software manufacturer directly for that.]
  4. 1 point
    We do not know what you are calling "proper" position for blade depth. But do not use a credit card or post it notes to set blade depth. That is too much blade exposed out of the blade holder.( Too many incorrect instructions out there). If you are seeing the blade tip out of the blade holder, then you have too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. Your cuts look like that is what is going on. Too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. Try this. It works for correct blade depth. Posted hundreds of times on this forum. Make sure no vinyl is stuck in blade holder, blade spins freely and you can add a drop or 2 of light oil in the blade holder. 3-1 oil, sewing machine oil. etc. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct. The correct combo is less blade more force.
  5. 1 point
    There is a special wrap vinyl for vehicles. See: Fellers.
  6. 1 point
    I have 6", 9, 12", 15", 18", 24, 30" of paper transfer tape.100 yd length. I only buy 50 yd rolls of vinyl in 15" 24" 30" In 24 colors. I only have 3 colors in 15" I only sell online. I purchase my tape at jra-signsupplies. Ebay most of the time. I purchase a 48" log and they will slit it up to 5 times free. Located in Michigan. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153452552342?var=453402809544 I have had some tape do that before. But I can usually unroll it several times, like 5 times. and then the tape gets better. The outside layers may dry out, but the inside is fine. Maybe , maybe not. depends on how old the tape is. I try to help when I can.
  7. 1 point
    Professionals use paper tape. It can be applied wet or dry. I use medium tack paper tape. I prefer perfectear paper tape. That is what I use for every thing. Clear tape you can use for layers. And cannot use with wet application. You cannot use with curves. For curves use a cast vinyl like 751, 951. Cast vinyl is very nice to cut and pliable. The stretch of it stays in place and has a better adhesive. https://uscutter.com/shop/?search_query=perfectear
  8. 1 point
    No discrepancy. The $982 is for CUT V1-V4, to XPT. V5. Choose XPT V1-V4 to XPT 5. (far right). You are paying for almost all of XPT 5, upgrading from bare bones CUT for $982. Each version has a different price for upgrade. Click on the versions, they are each different. Page default is on CUT.