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For that design, I would try a solid red circle, then yellow with the red areas cut out, then white, then black. I could see maybe doing the black part of the laces before the white but with practice as haunmana said, you should only have to do as many layers as colors.

Graphtec offers a Mac version called Graphtec Studio, it's a basic, watered down version of the Windows counter part. In reality, you can use any cutting software that will support the CE7000.

Definitely weigh the cost of new signage vs. time and effort spent. If the vinyl is that difficult to remove, and the sign is removable, I would opt to purchasing new substrate and doing a fresh sign. No doubt the original signage will be less than ideal to prep for decent vinyl installation.

New substrate, new vinyl, and move on, don't waste your time.

Quite possibly as slice and dice mentioned, optical sensor might have malfunctioned or may be the cause of static buildup due to movement of PVC Vinyl that might have caused the tracker to malfunction. As skeeter said, the best suited answer will come from their tech support of forum

I hate it when that happens. Everything is going along Roses, and then BAM! Ya get a thorn. If I was to just guess, it seems like an optical sensor went kaput.

It could be a very long wait to get an answer here. Just contact Roland support. There is only a couple hand fulls of members here that answer questions, We are mostly cutting vinyl. I am here almost every day, I don't know of any of us that owns a Roland BN20-A, that has ever been mentioned. We are just volunteers here. Roland has a forum.

If you're running four colors on the softball, you should be able to do it in four layers rather than seven. It's just a matter of figuring out how best to setup each cut of color, and which order to layer it in. I understand your thought process though. We all started somewhere, and while you think it's kind of a waste of time, it'll be worth while trying to figure it out, because you will come across more projects that will require layering, and if you take the time to figure it out on the personal, fairly smaller design, then you can hit the ground running for the commercial/larger jobs. Kudos to you on your first go around, my first try looked nothing like it was supposed to.

Updating for anyone looking for Mh mK2 drivers as USCutter took them off their website entirely. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WNRrOiYY2l8RXA9oG2TQdP-ZX4gCuUu4?usp=share_link to install on windows 10 type recovery into search bar, click recovery options, advanced startup, on restart navigate to advanced boot tools or something of the sort. disable driver signature enforcement (f7), bam....computer boots, find your way to "devices and printers" not "device manager" and see the unspecified printer where uscutter should be (make sure you have it plugged in to pc and power and turned on to see). right click it, propeties,hardware,properties,change settings, drivers, update drivers, browse to where you saved drivers, click under to install from disc, see uscutter, install ?????? profit if it doesn't work play around with the install drivers menu, for some reason it took a few attempts browsing and selecting the right file path for it to register and be included in the driver install menu. good luck

OK, Doug, glad you checked back in with that new info. We always like to see resolution, especially when our comments prove to be useful. Your placing the white vinyl down first as an underlayment is the best proposition, especially since any vinyl that has been on a surface for that long will invariably leave a 'shadow' when taken off (left behind from the outdoors exposure to UV light). I just did a sign for a mechanic's garage and had to flip the acrylic substrate over because of that effect. The back was crisp and clean, while the face had the old lettering outlines still 'etched'

In any case, here's two ideas for working with adhesive residue removal, as well as scraping off vinyl decals. 1. GooGone -- (citrus) https://googone.com (my work caddy wouldn't be complete without it) 2. https://uscutter.com/orafol-lil-chizlers-pink These things are awesome, perfect for avoiding the scratches that razor blades will cause. (especially for getting letters off vehicle doors).

May be a picture of the signage will help (including the boards). Obviously, getting a new board in and putting the print.decals on it will be quickest and easiest way

Yeah, I have a suggestion. Get new signage.

Biggest problem that new users have is setting the blade depth correctly. Too many incorrect instructions out there saying use a credit card or post it notes. This is 10 times too much blade sticking out of the blade holder. Also blade offset is ZERO on a Graphtec. Make sure you haven't broken the blade tip off, very easy to do. Make sure flange is holding down the blade holder. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.

That is the one I have. The heat pillow is a must have in my opinion. Buttons, collars, seams, so many things on shirts that make them not smooth, the heat pillow takes care of all of it.

Yes I downloaded the Graphtec Driver , I don't know why the new SB that I downloaded on my new laptop doesn't have the same Comm settings as on my old laptop. I will keep playing around with it. I only do this every 5 to 7 years and struggle every time thanks for your help! I probably have the Graphtec software but have been using the SBE since the PCut and haven't taken the time to learn a new one. I just love SB.

Sorry, got side racked. Here is the dispenser I made that works great for me.

In the meantime, while waiting for Bigmax to show us what he's got, take a quick look at this fellow, he's got a great operation going.

I think it turned out awesome and feel good about making another in full size. I'm even liking the peeled up dots all over the place, so I found a sheet of 16 gauge about that size. Then I tossed the sheet on my plasma table and cut out the shape I cleaned up both sides. It ended up being about 32" wide X 28" tall. Then did the same process that i did on the smaller one. Here's a pic of it after all the painting is done and the vinyl peeled off. I guess waiting a little dry more time helped since the white didn't come up this time. It looked so good, I had a hard time deciding if I should distress it or not. And here it is after all the distressing is done. I'm debating about putting a couple bullet holes in it, and possibly adding some rusted edges... not sure yet. When I decide where it's going, I'll figure out mounting holes. And some detail pics, I love the way it turned out, especially the black letters!

a good unit like Royal Sovereign is going to be expensive - especially ones with heat assist. I used a Daige for years which is a cold roller and you will have some silvering for a couple of hours but worked great and had 2 of them over the 7 years I did printing with the roland printers

Great idea.... I've been trying to come up with a humorous t-shirt concerning the virus....THAT could work! I'm wearing my "Patience Tested" t-shirt today....it's appropriate as business is near nil!