slice&dice

APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR DECAL 1. Clean window or desired smooth surface to remove dirt, grime... (70% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL) Do not use Windex or other similar ammonia-based product, as it leaves a trace behind that is not suitable for decal applications 2. Remove and discard decal backing material (white paper) ---- peel away carefully, making sure the decal stays on the clear "transfer tape" 3. With the backing paper completely removed from the decal & transfer tape, gently place the decal with the sticky transfer tape onto the surface of the glass (or other desired smooth substrate) in the position you want the decal to be and rub it down lightly with your hand --- be careful, once it's down, it's down ! 4. Take a credit card and firmly wipe over the surface of the transfer tape to affix the decal onto the glass or substrate. The decal adhesive is activated by strong pressure. 5. Finally, peel away the transfer tape gently, at a 45-degree angle. The decal will adhere to the surface, but make sure that the decal remains stuck onto the glass and doesn't come back up ---- sometimes you have to 'coax' it from letting go of the transfer tape. 6. Your decal installation is complete. If there are bubbles present under the decal that cannot be removed by working them to the edge, a small needle or pin can be used to puncture the bubble and remove the trapped air

These types of internal "Windows" (operating system) issues are generally beyond this forum's scope of capabilities --- we can't troubleshoot too well from behind our keyboards. What you'll need to do is have a local computer tech sit alongside with you right there and play around with the Device Manager and Ports and Coms. Buona fortuna.

Hi everyone. Looking on google for a 2002 Camaro Hood Scoop SS Manta Ray decal yielded the following best result https://www.promotorstripes.com/products/122551591266

Yeah, maybe he meant something like THIS ----> (Just kidding around with kainthc.s., this ain't a political statement)

I hate it when that happens. Everything is going along Roses, and then BAM! Ya get a thorn. If I was to just guess, it seems like an optical sensor went kaput.

A 'spooky' (or 'horror') font indeed, from Absonstype Studio. If you can, make a $15 payment to them for creating the font, it's always a good idea to support font artists (even though you can easily obtain it on other sites for free, giving cash directly to the design studio is well-appreciated). https://absonstype.com/product/danger-night

Hello, Please rephrase your question. Are you attempting to "contour cut" a printed graphic? (image) You're using registration marks? Software?

What is missing from the USCUTTER downloads page seems to be the CDM20828 driver installer. (FTDI)

INF files are used by the Windows operating system, as well as application installers. They are used during installation of device drivers. Due to their risk of infection by viruses, they should not be opened manually, especially if they come from an unknown source.

Good stuff. When you're done with that new company sign (the one you had to clean off the old lettering), let's take a look-see. Also, on the above logo, I count 4 colors/layers only, not 7. (Red, Black, Yellow, White) --- what are the other 3 ?

OK, Doug, glad you checked back in with that new info. We always like to see resolution, especially when our comments prove to be useful. Your placing the white vinyl down first as an underlayment is the best proposition, especially since any vinyl that has been on a surface for that long will invariably leave a 'shadow' when taken off (left behind from the outdoors exposure to UV light). I just did a sign for a mechanic's garage and had to flip the acrylic substrate over because of that effect. The back was crisp and clean, while the face had the old lettering outlines still 'etched'

In any case, here's two ideas for working with adhesive residue removal, as well as scraping off vinyl decals. 1. GooGone -- (citrus) https://googone.com (my work caddy wouldn't be complete without it) 2. https://uscutter.com/orafol-lil-chizlers-pink These things are awesome, perfect for avoiding the scratches that razor blades will cause. (especially for getting letters off vehicle doors).

Yeah, I have a suggestion. Get new signage.

Alex, in general, we advise against trying to 'fix' something that ain't broke to begin with. That includes updating operating systems and/or software which functions just fine as it is. Some of us still are running old laptop computers with WinXP, and a cut/design program (SBE) that is now abandonware, and ported through DB9 legacy cables (RS232 serial connection). Having said that, if you revert to the SignMaster v3, does the cutter respond properly?

That software is produced/distributed by Future Corp. and it might be worthwhile for you to contact them directly.

As it happens, the cutter is listed in SignBlazer setup, and should run fine using that software.

Hmmmm, I wonder if (free) Inkscape has a similar process?

Regarding the double-cut method ("The trick to that, is cut and paste the graphic so that one sits directly over the other, and the machine will typically cut the first pass, then cut the second.") I would more likely just DUPLICATE the design, and indicate a Zero/Zero offset.

Galt, I used to do reflective with my MH unit, the pressure needs to be set way up, and the blade should be the 65* type (yellow tip cover), not the standard 45* (red tip cover) that regular vinyl uses. You can run the SUMMA with SignBlazer, it's listed in the setup. Selling it would be a challenge, because it's such an old unit. Anyone thinking of getting into this game would likely prefer a current model, for under $1000, instead of an ancient machine. If you have enough room to utilize it, just keep it. By the way, with that much reflective, you might wish to approach local contractors who are building large parking structures or apartments/condos with parking lots, and see if they'll throw work your way.

It seems like you're already well-versed in taking your machine apart, so that's an advantage when going ahead to replace an internal component like the motherboard. Why it failed (if indeed that's the culprit) is unknowable, unless you're an electronics technician with the capability to test the circuitry and evaluate each chip and transistor. Anyway, for $80, it's not a drastic expense to just swap it out, and chances are you'll have the cutter operating fine again. I recall several years ago, when my MH unit suffered a failure (my fault, I broke the I/O port by tripping on the USB cable), and decided to get an entire spare machine when I ordered the part. At the time, the SC was on sale, so I had them ship that along with the I/O board. I ended up repairing the MH, and selling it, keeping the SC in use, and getting a LaserPoint as back-up. A friend of mine wanted to get into cutting, so I let him buy the LP, and I went ahead and obtained the SC2 that is my primary machine now (and that original SC is in the garage, just in case something happens to the SC2, so I can keep slicing&dicing along while figuring out what to do with whatever problem the SC2 may encounter).

Wow, this goes far beyond just a 'roller issue' ---- the machine itself seems not to be able to handle the plotting information properly through the circuits (MotherBoard). A TEST cut that ends up like this is a clue that something internal on the processor has failed. $80 gets you a new M-B. https://uscutter.com/uscutter-sc2-vinyl-cutter-replacement-parts While not a guarantee of alleviating your problem, I sure would invest in that, just to get up and running as soon as I could, and return back to work. Eighty bucks is like one hour's production output, and to be stuck without a functioning machine for very long is a whole lot of money lost.

Just be sure that the center pressure (spring) roller is NOT placed at the white mark/decal affixed onto the carriage rail at the midpoint. That spot is a "dead zone" of the lower grit rollers (a seam between them) and will cause problems.

I have a similar problem sometimes with my SC2. I don't reboot the cutter, just unplug and plug in the USB again.

Whenever there is some sort of connection issue, it's best to go to the tried-and-true SignBlazer which is like the can-opener of cutters, and it allows you to at least troubleshoot to see if the cutter (hardware) is somehow at fault, or if there's something else going on.

I would say not. They are designed for cutting very thin vinyl. The cutting blade is barely exposed, almost not enough to even see the tip.