darcshadow

You could probably use Inkscape/InkCut and the serial connection. I never understood why they say the MH don't work with MACs. You are talking to it through a serial connection, so long as you send the correct serial commands the cutter won't care what is talking to it.

You'd be better off finding the font and recreating the logo.

Really sounds like static to me. Try running the same job that is messing up using pen and paper. If it comes out correct you have a static issue. If the pen/paper messes up, you have other problems.

If you change the size of the stars but want it to still fit in the 13.75x9.75 area the spacing between the stars will have to shrink. Are you ok with that? Also, the stars are not square, so if you make the a 1.254 square they will be distorted from the current design. You ok with that too? I use Inkscape so I don't know the exact commands to do this in AI but here is the process I took to create this. I took one of your stars, resized it then duplicated it 6 times to create the top row. Then I duplicated that row to create the the 5 rows. Then I selected and copied a 4x5 grid of the stars and shifted then down and to the right. Flag Stars.eps

The problem is your first sentence. "a MH with years of use". They don't track well when they are new and adjusting the roller springs is a black art that once you mess with them it's unlikely you'll ever get them dialed back in correctly. If the problem became worse when you changed blades, do you have the blade depth set correctly and did you follow Mz Skeeter's instructions posted hundreds of times on here? If you did not, how did you set the blade depth?

Might try a different USB port. Does the computer recognize the cutter when the USB is plugged in? If it's a university computer, have they disabled USB ports for anything other than Keyboard/Mouse? That happens a lot in the corporate world, admins get carried away with locking down a system for "security". If you have another computer you could put the software on give that a try. Also, try a different software, there are several that have free trials.

What OS you running? Did an update happen and maybe you need to update the driver for your cutter now?

Are you running the latest version of VM? There was a version that had issues with importing SVGs and they would get jumbled up or missing sections. SVG files are not all equal and some programs can't handle the extra information other programs store in them. Two options, that have worked for me export as an EPS then use that, or try saving the SVG file as a flat SVG file.

I never tried to contour cut with a MH, in theory it should be able to do it. However the tracking on the MH was not the best so anything very large would likely not come out well. Also the MH has no alignment aids so getting things lined up would be entirely manual. 900 vs 590 is a hard pill to swallow but I think I would still recommend the Roland over a MH/Kasa.

If the KASA is of similar quality as the MH721 you will be sorely disappointed after having used a Roland in the past. The MH is about as low end as you can get and still be functional. It works, and can teach you a lot about dialing in settings, but it can also be very frustrating.

I have a ce6000-60 and there is zero play in the carriage head. I don't know if there is anyway to adjust it or not, never dug into that part. Good luck in the repair.

One comment. If you have your blade depth set correctly, changing the cut pressure will not change how deep it cuts. Same for multiple passes, if the blade is set at the correct depth it shouldn't cut through the backing no matter how many times it passes over the same point. So be aware, if design is coming out fine and and you're cutting through the backing great, but your blade depth is not set correct and if/when you run into problems with the design not coming out right, blade depth will very likely be the problem.

The only thing I notice is the letters are all strokes and not fills. Meaning, if the cutter were to cut it, it would cut out the letter not an outline as the image looks. I've removed the strokes and made everything solid colors, this is what the cutter would cut. I've also changed the colors to make the various shapes more obvious. The ovals are a bit of a mess. drawing.svg

Once you post the file we'll know for sure, but my guess is you don't have a vector file, you have a raster image.

Cool, use it to ring from the grounding string to the ground wire on the stand. They should be electrically connected. If they do ring out then ring from the ground wire, to the 3rd round prong on the power cord. If that rings out, and assuming your house is properly grounded, then you are good as far as that goes I have no idea why static would be biting you. To "ring" something out, most DMMs have a setting that when you touch the two probes together it makes a tone, or rings. Put it on that setting and probe away. If it does not have that setting, set it to measure resistance and measure between the two points. A connection should be 0 ohms ideally. But in this case anything under say 10 ohms should be fine.