MZ SKEETER

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MZ SKEETER last won the day on May 27

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About MZ SKEETER

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    MZ SKEETER

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  1. MZ SKEETER

    Slicing image

    Sounds like you are looking for. How to tile. That is what it is called in most cutting software. Tiling. Look for tile/tiling in your user manual. Your software will break the design down to tiles with an overlap that you decide.
  2. My carriage head rollers, roll in a track above. You can see on your picture of the FC7000. You could do a search for the Graphtec Service manual. The service manuals are out there. Not the owner manual, the service manual. Watch out for the link for Manualslib, It had a virus come up. There is another Arkiplot.com that seemed to work alright. I don't use blades from Graphtec, only the first blade that came with the cutter. I use aftermarket blades. After setting the blade depth correctly, show some pictures of the TEST cuts from the TEST feature. That TEST cut has to be correct first. Then your cutter has to be calibrated to the cutting software that you are using. Your push rollers holding the vinyl has to be over the grit roller below. There are special areas for the push rollers to be. Your welcome. On another note, wasn't that package insured? Personally I would send it back to the seller. That's my 2c.
  3. Why not just download the Graphtec Cutting controller and just run from there? Right from your computer. You don't have to mess with the settings on the vinyl cutter. Offset is zero on blade and pen. It's all pretty easy with the controller. Your machine has to be ready to cut to use it. I have never had to mess with any mechanical parts on my cutter. So I don't know what it is supposed to be on your carriage head.
  4. Sorry things went that way, but the first thing you need to do is make sure the rollers of the carriage head are firmly down in the track. The blade depth is the next important item. That blade should be so far in your blade holder, that you wouldn't think that it would even cut. You use the force of the machine . My blade depth instruction are posted hundreds of time on the forum. They work. Calibrate the cutter to your cutting software. No need to even do cuts until that TEST cut is correct. You have to get that correct first. Blade offset is zero.
  5. MZ SKEETER

    Help required with flexi sign

    Here is your TEXT & heart beat, can you work with that? SHADE.eps
  6. Looks OK, Too bad the material basket isn't on it, It was standard. Like the one on the Summa. I have posted how to set blade depth to your material, hundreds of times on here. It works. Hope all works out for you. Also these Graphtecs have a Graphtec Cutting Controller that you can download. Windows only from website. You can control most settings right from your computer. It shows up as Condition 9 on the cutter screen. I don't ever change settings on my vinyl cutter. Speed, force, is all changed on my computer. Your cutter has to be sitting there ready to cut to change settings. But I really don't change those either too much, because of what I cut. I also don't run the heck out of my cutter either. I run slow, it is not a race. I am usually cutting while on here.
  7. I started with Flexistarter 7.6 with my Seiki, and use Flexistarter 8.6 with my Graphtec. That is the only software that I have used.
  8. I would still be asking more for mine right now. I know my cutter and how it was used.
  9. I stocked up with blades from Seiki, years ago. My first cutter was a Seiki. But I don't see Seikitech website anymore. They were great blades, cheap and last 8-9 months for me. They were 5 for $25 free ship in the US. The FC unit has adjustable pinch rollers, that you just flip down for different adjustments, lighter or thicker material. Several years back I picked up a FC8000-75 for cheap, just for a back up. The sellers messed it up, I had it fixed in about 15 minutes. LOL. They had been cutting reflective with it. They even added two more pinch rollers to it. Now it has 4 pinch rollers. It came with the red top blade holder. I have never needed to use it. But it is sitting here ready to go. Another great cutter. It has the dual blade holder in the carriage head, to cut over a channel. FC7000 only has 1 hole for blade holder. UScutter sells the set up for the CE7000 also. It is for a 15" machine. https://uscutter.com/Graphtec-Ce-7000-40-Plus-Auto-Feeding-Sheet-Cutter/
  10. The FC7000-75 is a Great cutter, built like a tank. Stands much higher than the CE units. I purchased mine new in 2008, I cut almost every day. Never have had the first problem with it. You probably won't find parts for it unless you purchased another one that is broke down. I think the problem that you are going to find reviewing these cutters is, that we don't cut paper and card stock with our Graphtecs. I sure don't. Only a couple of people on here using a FC7000. We cut vinyl. I don't know of anyone that uses this cutter or any Graphtecs that answers questions on here, that do cut paper or card stock. Whatever cutter you get you had better buy boxes of blades. Paper will dull blades very fast. I can get 8-9 months out of my blades cutting only vinyl. You will also need to cut on an adhesive cutting mat. There is only a couple handfuls of volunteers on here that answer questions. I don't know what you are calling a guillotine, but my FC has a cross cutter on it. Cuts from right to left with a different larger blade in a channel going across the front of the cutter.
  11. MZ SKEETER

    Stops during cuts

    I said it backwards, Yes, if it works with the pen, then it is static. You won't get static with the pen tool. Sorry
  12. MZ SKEETER

    Stops during cuts

    Have you tried a new cable? I had that problem once, I wiggled the cable and the cutter would take off again. New cable fixed it. Also a cable too long can cause problems. I tried a 16 ft, wouldn't work had to use 12 ft and never had the problem again. Been years now. If you take the blade out and try the pen and still get the problem, then it more than likely is not static.
  13. MZ SKEETER

    mh365

    Yep, that is what I was thinking. Years apart. The older MH will work with the Flexi5. Which driver are you using in the Flexi? Those cutters will have different boards in them. They are not the same cutters on the inside. I saw where someone who had Flexi 8.1 said that the MH driver is not even in their version. They wanted to know what driver to use. So what driver are you using? And have you tried a different driver in your set up for the newer MH365? Like Maybe REDSAIL. Or Roland PNC1000. From what I have read on here, the older Refine MH cutters were much better cutters, than the newer Refine MH cutters being sold today. The boards have had about 4 changes in them since the earlier days. Also Flexi 5 is not compatible for software newer than XP. Will be hit or miss. I am still back on XP with Flexi 8.6.
  14. MZ SKEETER

    9 pin com port

    A Tripplite Keyspan Adapter with a null modem serial cable is the way too go. Tripplite is the brand name. Most other usb to serial cables, have the same cheap Chinese Chipset as the vinyl cutter and do not work well with a vinyl cutter. You can read the forum. Tripplite is always advised. Find the best price. The null modem cable screws into your vinyl cutter, then to the Tripplite. The USB goes into your USB port on your computer. https://www.amazon.com/TRIPP-Keyspan-Serial-Adapter-USA-19HS-C/dp/B07GXBVDNM/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2GHGBAWOBDH6I&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aEhnvt6bG4Cehkpcv_KGPqJAqvcG44rW2HnQPPKPU4zWCobPDVIHi1iaSfIhDxjV_2Km4n20dMYYch4nETafxu8EMQtbDDVnjjU2hdc_VtWni7NKbwlIjWwitiovJY216XOBTxSAlWGCKLm_kdJSEqWurR2JWGt-gFJEAMQSEf7dJ5IDde_rzhWTDuoSKRr4f6i9hlBqUqdMq8BaHub-PCIoCsdOeiJi0pzaV4KPlgQ.TXi8tgNblfM_rkLf4EXvbXjdZf7GD8YOM183njEBFRE&dib_tag=se&keywords=tripp+lite+keyspan+usb+to+serial&qid=1714279338&sprefix=tripp+lite+keyspan%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-2 Make sure you get the correct USB plug port end for your computer.
  15. MZ SKEETER

    mh365

    Slice, Maddog44 and I, do know what we are talking about. You have probably never even seen or used Flexi software. With Flexi software, you CAN do that. I use the feature all the time. As stated above, Uncheck Advance after Plot. The design is cut, vinyl rolls down and goes back to the start and the carriage head goes back to ORIGIN. The first design is cut and hanging. I mostly use this with long mirrored stripes, or 2 long mirrored designs on the roll. The 1st design is done and comes back to the Start/Origin position. Then in my cutting software,. I flip/mirror the design. Then I use the ARROW key to move my carriage head to the left with enough room for the new stripe/design on the vinyl roll. Decals will be side by side mirrored.. Push ORIGIN again., then go in and check ADVANCE AFTER PLOT. It cuts my 2nd design and the carriage head ends at the end of the 2nd design. Both decals perfect sized, don't have to rearrange the vinyl. Both decals cut mirrored.. Order done. Don't have to have both sides of the vector file, using up memory. Only need 1 side of the file. Same file flipped, matches perfect. Any Flexi software will, and maybe Graphtec Pro Studio can do the same thing.