Wildgoose

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  1. I concur. But by that same token it is also a bit of a old wives tale about the 60deg being so much better. There are also trade-offs with them also being easier to break a tip. I use a Summa and the standard factory blade is only 36deg. I can tell you from experience that I can cut basically every bit as small with the 36 as I can with a 60. Now, when it comes to thickness the 36 is limited and as you work into thicker materials the amount of blade shoved into the cut does in fact come into play and will mess around more in extreme corners. But for basic 2 and 3 mil vinyl you are probably good to go with whatever you want. I'd try both and see if you find any difference. I DO wholeheartedly support the vote for Clean Cut blades, they will outlast the cheaper blades. A quality blade TAKEN CARE OF meaning staying out of your cutting strip will give you at least 6 months of regular cutting. I have been running on the same blade for 14 months.(summa blade but similar quality as the CC) So long that I misplaced my stash of new ones and I started to get worried and ended up ordering some new ones Ha ha. The others will turn up but we moved last year and I haven't found them yet. I like you am a AI designer and no there isn't really anything that can be done in other design programs that is missing in AI. They used to have one over on Illustrator by being able to do true block shadows but with the new updates Illustrator made to let that happen it's as good as it gets. I used to have to build those manually and it was a bit more time consuming. I DO agree with people that Illustrator is a bear to master, sort of like learning a reverse polish calculator I guess. But once you figure it out I really have no desire to spend time on other programs. I am a Mac guy and I use Sign Cut Pro 1 which is outdated and hard to even find these days. I own a dongle that I paid a few hundred for about 10 years ago so no subscription fees. It's a bare bones cutter interface but has most of the cutting bells and whistles that the highest versions of the others have. It works on both platforms (Mac and windows) which comes in handy sometimes but you have to own a dongle to quickly change between computers. They have Pro 2 out now and if my dongle ever dies I'll probably consider going to that upgraded version.
  2. Wildgoose

    Font & Softwares ...

    I think she means that by the time she gets them to be the same size the font point size (like 12pt or 24pt) are drastically different. human, I have seen similar between programs so I suspect it's something within one or both programs and how they interpret the data to produce the text. For instance when I had my beta version of SCALP it was set up to cut from live text without having to do any outlining compared to SignCut Pro which expects that to be done ahead of time. Similarly I have an embroidery digitizing program and within that you start with a basic font size such as 1.00 which is a true inch height in that program and then if you want to you can grab the handles and stretch it or compress it to fit a given size constraint yet the program still considers this the 1.00 even though it may actually have been heavily modified. I have to be careful when doing this that I go back and actually type new text for the next file if I am building personalized names or something because if I just erase the letters and change the name for the new file they will retain that morphed size. Not the same thing you are seeing but shows that programs may treat font size and other characters differently within their circle of influence.
  3. Wildgoose

    Need help......again

    My pleasure. That font is a commercial font and may be hard to find a free version. At least you know the correct one and can offer it at whatever price it comes in at or a cheaper alternative if they don't want to pay to match exactly. The other cool part about the program is it gives you a list of close fonts in order of percent matching and really helps finding a similar font.
  4. Wildgoose

    Need help......again

    The font is 4BigMedicineDNA (regular *Oblique) [SignDNA / (Commercial)] If you plan to do this kind of work often you should consider buying the Find-My-Font program. Probably one of the best bang for the buck programs available. I even use it on my own files sometimes when I can't remember which of my many fonts I used to create something. It's about $50 last time I bought it. Also, there are tricks to utilizing font search software. The one you posed was so washed out that it wouldn't work as it was. I picked the most distinguishing letter (in this case the P) and traced it out so it was clean, then screen shot the trace and used that for the search... whalla we have the correct font.
  5. You might also double check that there is no "play" in the grit roller. I have heard of some cutters (don't recall the specific cutter model) occasionally having a set screw get loose and allowing some play from forward to back etc... This could account for a gap.
  6. I agree with Slice that many letters are not the same height. I think I read somewhere that usually the height is associated with Capital A but can't confirm this. I always use a box the size I want my text to double check regardless of settings. Most font's have letters that are different heights slightly and I have sometimes adjusted them thinking it would look better but it usually makes them look slightly off. Those people who build fonts know their stuff and visually appealing does not always = exactness. Sort of similar to how some words look better when visually centered vs exactly centered when in stacked word art. There ARE fonts that run true such as M54 jersey fonts etc... but most have some minor height differences that make little difference in the end.
  7. Wildgoose

    printing

    Vinyl Master Pro will for sure.
  8. Wildgoose

    SummaCut D60 loading 6 inch width vinyl help?

    In this pic you reposted they have the left one moved off the detent position and that's most likely the problem. Left set and the right slides. Your question about the cutting head is valid if the cutter is turned on in this pic because it will move over, self check and then park just inside the right roller. It could be the angle of the shot because one of the other I couldn't see the pics roller due to the carriage head being where it should be. Perhaps they shut it off and pushed the head over?
  9. Wildgoose

    SummaCut D60 loading 6 inch width vinyl help?

    Thinking about it I realized I may have given you bad info. My brain was not engaged fully. On small pieces the LEFT pinch roller will be locked in it's detent position and the right side will slide to make the width work. Similar to if you have a 20" wide roll or any other sized full width rolls the left side goes out to the approximate width and the right side will then adjust within that 6" wide grit area to accomodate the exact width of the vinyl. Sorry to state that backwards and probably caused you additional frustration. I think any errors you are getting is probably from not having the left side in the detent and the auto-measure (called Polling) is getting confused.
  10. Before I started using plastisol screen print transfers I did many many left chest sized HTV copies and often set my Summa to run as I went to bed. It would cut a whole roll through the night (a couple times a whole 50yd roll) and be waiting there for me when I got up. I get smart later and only pull that sort of thing in dire emegencies now that I have found out about the plastisol option but I get the OP's point about letting it work while you're taking a break.
  11. Wildgoose

    SummaCut D60 loading 6 inch width vinyl help?

    I can't see the far right pinch wheel. Be sure that it is in it's detent position. There is a definite spot and sort of a click sound very faint. Once it's in the corret spot then you slide the left one over until you are on the vinyl. Your left pinch roller is close to the edge but within tolerance that I use when cutting on scraps. You can cut down to about a 2" wide piece. As to it not scanning you probably have a sensor out. I've never had mine do that so I can't give you much help on that specifically. Summa offers free live tech support regardless of who owns their products. Look them up and give them a call. They are wonderful. On a side note perhaps you are using a broken blade or too much cutting force which can cause the smaller peice to react weird. Could be some gunk built up on the grit roller underneath. Summa recomends yearly cleaning with a soft plastic bristle brush. I find a stiff toothbrush works great to kind of sweep out any debris that finds it way into the roller. That particular vinyl appears to be quite stiff. Summa's usually squish a substantial track into the vinyl when clamped down. If you are having to run some higher cutting force to get through it that could be some of the reason as mentioned. If possible it's better to leave a little more sticking out past the roller (like about 1/2"). There is a spot in the machine control that will let you turn off the width sensor and some people do this but I like having it measure the width. Summ's strong pressure ususally renders the vinyl unsuable from the roller out so having a known measurement is key to making sure the whole thing gets cut. Also your D60 is a 30" machine (same as mine) and typically come with just two pinh rollers but sometimes if people are cutting heavy materials they add a third middle pinch roller which have lighter pressure and reduce the smallest possible width by a couple inches. If your machine has three you wil have to use all three.
  12. Wildgoose

    Help with transferring over to imark plus 1.0

    I use Illustrator but not for print work, or at least not for production print work. I would think the magenta special lines probably need to be on a separate layer. Have you tried that? Your I-MARK software should give you specific instructions. Another possible issue could be the I-MARK software was designed for a certain version of Illustrator. My cutting software prefers Illustrator version 8 which is older and simpler than the new higher tech versions. For instance Version 8 does not support multiple art boards. You can save your work in older legacy versions within the program by using "save as" and when it comes to the screen that lets you choose the .ai format (as opposed to PDF or EPS etc.) you will toggle open the drop menu and choose an older version. There is likely something along those lines to look for.
  13. Wildgoose

    Customer service

    Sounds like you're a man of many cutters!
  14. Most of us were in your shoes at some point and understand the frustration when it seems like inanimate objects have conspired against you. At some point you will look back and wonder why it seemed so hard to get to work right. My niece has a cricuit and there are some things that it does better than what we here on the forum consider a "real cutter". Such as craft paper on the little cutting board they have. But once you're used to the real thing you won't go back. I have turned my activities into a part time business and so at the moment I use mine to make money, but I can tell you I doubt I will EVER have a future that does NOT have a cutter tucked over in a corner somewhere. Their just too much fun and too handy for all sorts of nik-naks that I don't see myself without one ever again.
  15. If you are seeing a difference between the two it is entirely possible that your changes are not being applied to the cutter. You'll want to figure out what's going on there. My software (different than yours) has a check box to either allow or not allow the program to control the cutter settings. I personally do the cutter setting directly on the cutter. Some budget cutters do not have the ability to adjust any of the setting manually on the cutter. I never trusted the software to be completely trustworthy and it seemed prudent to make sure my cutter was doing what I told it without the possibility of some weird thing happening. I'm less trusting than some so your mileage may vary.