Wildgoose

Siser should IF the pleather can handle the heat. I have not done it myself, but I see they say you can. I believe they recommend reduced heat and increased dwell time.

I get some sort of perverse kick out of it. I do it for fun sometimes when I have free time. I'm weird I know.

I tweaked it to try and see if it would help. Still didn't get there in FMF but Agency FB Bold is close and with some work could be made to work. If you figure it out to be an actual font post the name cause it's a cool look.

Around the 18K mark. It's been a while since I asked and I saw an add that was a few thousand higher the other day so they may have went up.

They sell the Mahindra jeeps a few miles from me. It's silly what they want you to spend on those things. As near as I can tell they must have bought the patent rights to the old Willys and made a few upgrades and started rolling them off the production lines. To the OP - Most upscale printers that have sensors for the rollers are magnetic and trigger when the roller is in a specific location. Not sure on the Rolland but form follows function. Be sure you have the pics rollers placed in the proper location in case you're just not getting started correctly. Typically there are several spots for the left hand roller to sit (usually in about 6" increments starting about 12 inches from the right side. The right side roller typically has a larger variable location that lets it fit different sizes of vinyl. If using scraps they would both go on the variable area. Not sure if that makes sense in written form and I don't own a Rolland so it's just general information.

I actually use SignCut Pro (there is a newer version out now) because I mostly work on a Mac platform and it is able to run the cutter from either Windows or Mac. I have found that the older laptop is simple and effective and removes the cutting operation from my main workstation. My cutter sits across the room and I just transfer cut files on a thumb. If the windows computer gives me a problem I can pull the cutter over and use my Mac (requires a lifetime dongle do do this without deactivating it the other) I am not sure what the new Pro 2 version is like but the original Pro 1 that I use is simply a cutting utility but has most all the bells and whistles you can get for a cutter interface. The company also has live tech support which occasionally comes in handy if something is going wonky. When I bought my first cutter it was a Creation P-Cut and they used to come with 1 year subscription of SignCut Pro. At the year mark I poked around for something that I didn't have to rent or spend too much on but there really wasn't a lot to offer that was Mac compatible and fully legit. I tried out a beta version of Sure Cuts a Lot Pro (often called SCALP) and missed all the bells and whistles from SIgnCut too much so I broke down and bought the Dongle (at the time was $400). This was in 2011. I design in Illustrator so have no use for the design side of most of the other options. If you are running on a windows platform and need the design AND cut tools the Vinyl Master program is probably the best overall bang for the buck I've seen. I suggest paying to get up to the Pro level. There are tools that I tend to find essential that the lower tiers hold out on you. That is sort of the way they entice you into spending more and they all pretty much do it. It's a fairly big investment if it's only a hobby but the open source options out there are very rudimentary by comparison. (InkCut being one such).

I would try an old cheap laptop. I cut from a windows 7 myself. I do my design work on a mac and transfer via thumb drive and it's double helpful because I can continue to work while the cutter is working. I also recommend signing up in the forum so we don't have to review every post you make.

Glad you are back in action. Sometimes it's the simplest things. I wore out a blade holder myself and likewise had a bit of time trying to figure out what the hay was going on.

I don't have any help for you on this. Hopefully someone will be able to chime in. If no one responds in the next day or so you may want to start a new thread to garner more attention. You are way down on page three and sometimes it matters, sometimes not. I recommend joining the forum so you don't have to wait for an admin to approve each and every post. We (admins) are all volunteer and often get busy so you may get stuck waiting. If you are planning on keeping the cutter you will find a lot of helpful information here. It's a nice forum with experienced regulars who enjoy helping out.

Blade holders do wear out. I had one give up on me and it definitely caused issues. That would be my first guess based on your results and what you've tried. You can add some oil (just a tiny drop) but if it "feels" at all a bearing has probably dropped and any kind of drag or misalignment is going to screw with you. I run a different brand but the same form and function exist.

Also bear in mind that the polled length or either axis is not measured by the actual edge of your paper. Meaning that the cutters poll is to define how much actual working space is within the cutting area between the rollers side to side and between what you tell it is the origin and when the back of the paper comes off the sensor on the back. You could easily place the paper to one side a bit and inadvertently throw off the side to side result or get the paper crooked and have problems that way. I don't use your brand, but my Summa has a sensor on the back and there is a given amount of space left at the end so that the vinyl/paper does not roll past the pinch rollers. Mine leaves about an inch on the back.

Not sure either. What software are you using? If you sign up as a forum member you will receive quicker responses. All guest posts have to be approved by admin.

I run a Summa. One cool thing about them is they have live tech support for any machine regardless of whether it was an original purchase or not. When I get a moment I'll try to remember how to contact them.

I cut stencils from time to time out of used carrier sheet and have found that applying a couple layers of transfer paper to the back side to act as a cutting mat works pretty good.

If I am cutting stencils I include a box around the design at the outer limits so I get the right amount of clearance around the edges. Works every time without having to remember anything fancy. Especially nice when you do another one a year later.