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Welcome. "I received the VinylMaster Cut disk" -- you received an actual disk? or a printed card with instructions for downloading the program and activating over the internet? As to your question, first you need to dog-paddle before you take on the Olympic breaststroke. That logo is created using a technique called "LAYERING" and it's not a simple task even for guys like me who understand it. You have a multitude of colors (blue, yellow, black, grey, white, red) that all have to be designed & cut individually. Also, there will be a need to create a "pass through" of that panther as it overlaps the SWD lettering (using a technique called welding). Overall, on a scale of difficulty, that one is a 7. (and that's AFTER you get the thing vectorized). Try out some basic cuts first, and get the hang of the process (designing, cutting, weeding, taping, dropping) before you embark upon the task of this logo. Best of luck. We've all been where you are now.

My guess is they didn't make those mugs using that press. They kept cutting the video at key points. I could stick the mug handle in my toaster and then reveal a perfectly sublimated mug. It's like magic.

You could try using contact paper. The cheap stuff from the dollar store. I've played around with it in the past. Definitely not the ideal transfer tape material, but it kind of works okay. It has a lower tack than app tape, but is usually still sticky enough to remove vinyl from its backing. Or, try taking your transfer tape and sticking it to some fabric before using it to load it up with some fibers/dust to reduce the tack.

Well only one way to find out! But I think you should be fine using "regular" transfer tape, I don't believe it would damage your paper bag. Give it a shot.

I thought all those sites were bad - place a few items at a local auction site $50 sales netted $20.80 check. needless to say i am done with them (non vinyl stuff)

Thanks for posting. So that is a complex graphic --the keyspan should help. I also would recommend making final cut larger than the test above.

Check out a search for keyspan adaptor on this forum. lots of peple have this problem with the MH series. That cutter really shouldnt be run on USB memory too small, and poor USB emulator. A serial connection regulates the flow in a way to the cutter.

An old phrase comes to mind here.... Patience grasshopper, you must walk before you can run. Unless you are already familiar with creating computer designs and vectors, you will have to learn the basics before you can tackle that one. Begin with simple one color phrases and silhouettes. Did you also buy a heat press to apply the HTV? Not to mention, most all logos, trademarks, company symbols & cartoon characters are copyright protected and you need the copyright holder's permission to reproduce them. It's illegal to use without their permission. Welcome & good luck. Sue2

YouTube is a great resourse: https://www.youtube.com/results?q=layered+heat+transfer+vinyl

Serif is usually easier to read in long blocks of continuous text, but sans is usually preferred for small chunks and smaller physically sized text, both of which fit here. And with random capitalization, the cleaner the letters, the better.

Yeah....I definitely need to make this official

I use the 811 but haven't had a need to try it with enamel spray paints. From Oracal's website FAQ: "...ORAFOL Americas offers 4 different stencil mask films…ORAMASK® 810, 810S, 811, and 813. ORAMASK® 810 is a conformable stencil film that is useful for spraying and painting on uneven surfaces. It comes in a transparent grey color. ORAMASK® 810S has a solvent-based adhesive that is ideal for multi-color or solvent-based paints. It is highly conformable and comes in transparent grey. ORAMASK® 811 is a rigid paint mask film for painting or spraying on even surfaces that is available in opaque white. Lastly, ORAMASK® 813 is a translucent rigid stencil film for painting or spraying on even surface areas that is available in translucent blue." Sounds like the 810S is what you seek.

I'm sure you meant 8mil and not 8mm. I've cut a lot of 8mil chalk vinyl with the Graphtec with no issues. Just use a sharp 60 degree blade and run some test cuts to get the pressure dialed in. I use a speed of 20 and force of 29 with the blade sticking out the same as with regular vinyl.

welcome from the US - how is the weather in Pakistan?

jiffyshirts doesn't require a license - they will sell to sally with a cricut

funny guys - yeah typo - sanmar and if you are in the business well worth the trouble to get the business license and get set up

great unit for indoor posters - not so much for vinyl as you need solvent or latex

They should allow those of us with SCA to swap out for the new software. I got SCA at the beginning when they offered the discount and it sucked. I went through several upgrades with it and still hated it. I never even use it cause corel and SB are just, well, better. I would like to try out the replacement software since I bought SCA and don't use it.

I am of the opinion that it's easier to read Serif lettering ---- and since you're at 1" size, that's very much applicable in this instance. This falls under the topic of "Typeface legibility" (cognition) The basic concept of which is "better" for reading is so tangled up in decipherability, pattern recognition, reading speed, retention, familiarity, visual grouping, aesthetic response, and real life vs. test conditions that contradictory results can be obtained for the same exact type faces under different test conditions. I would type it out as: www.HappyCamper.com (with uppercase letters for the start of each distinct word --- remember, URL's are not case sensitive, but adding uppercase text makes it easier to distinguish what the address is)

y'all are slack lol. Everyone should know how to sew, change a tire, tell time on a clock with dials and several other things. What is the world coming to

My vector bookmarks: http://raindrop.io/collection/194167

Having trouble uploading pics atm...I'll get it Big ups to SkareKrow! He is a true professional gotta go make some more decals - finished up a couple of original designs today so I am PUMPED! now I just have to keep putting in the hours on flexi. Awesome Krew here, love it! Jay okay, figured it out...here's some pics! I will put up some of the original work I'm currently doing http://forum.uscutter.com/uploads/gallery/album_261/gallery_94932_261_259344.png http://forum.uscutter.com/uploads/gallery/album_261/gallery_94932_261_663373.png http://forum.uscutter.com/uploads/gallery/album_261/gallery_94932_261_783466.png Awesome! You guys rock..thanks again to all who have helped. Jay

Sign you up was right. The other day, I tried to do another graphic and watched how the z axis was acting. It was not consistant with it's motion and at points would come down but could clearly see a gap between the holder and vinyl. I ordered a new carriage and motherboard from US Cutter and found a you tube video of someone replacing a carriage on a LP2. I had the new carrage installed in about 10 minutes and now it's cutting like new again. Guess I have a new motherboard on stand by just in case I need it later. Thanks for the help guys. Kris

Yes, that's just extra steps to get to the same goal - Arrange > Shaping > Boundary gives you the same thing as Edit > Copy, Edit > Paste, Arrange > Shaping > Weld. It also drops any fill effects, so if you're working with patterned fills, gradients, etc. (for doing print work), it doesn't try to replicate those and further bog down your system. Expanding to the desired size is not the same effect as applying a contour. In this top example, I applied a red contour to black text. In the bottom example, I duplicated the text, set it to red, moved it to back and enlarged it - you can see that it no longer lines up with the original text...

i watched this video before i even tried to do this on my own good luck