Dakotagrafx

Did all of you alignment grid look good when you ran that? I always spent more time on alignment than changing the heads

Paper with ink has to remain tight until removed, if any gap the ink vapors will cause what you describe. Remember the ink goes from solid on the paper to a vapor at a certain temp

next step up is a servo cutter - titan 2 - I love my graphtecs but haven't heard if they worked out all the bugs in the ce7000 - - the only series I would stay away from. miss my ce6000 and had to return the ce7000 = stepping up to the fc9000 was a bit of a leap for a semi retired dude. stay warm sir

for a jumping off point - trace the J and then use OPTIMacBethOldStyle (Regular) - stretched - should be a good starting point

one of the best purchases I ever made and that same investment has never needed me to pay to update, how many other programs can you say that about

not sure on regular gasket material but the fc9000 did cut some 3/16" thick rubber this summer to make a new seal for a flip style gas cap on my 65 mustang - rubber was no longer available for the Shelby style flip cap so had to redraw it in Graphtec pro studio and cut it on the graphtec using the red cap holder and same blade I use for thick sandblast resist. get er done in the end.

http://www.graphtecamerica.com/graphtec-america-faqs-video-software-video-faqs-cutting-master-3 http://www.graphtecamerica.com/graphtec-america-faqs-video-software-video-faqs-graphtec-studio for the older units like the ce5000 here is the link to cutmaster2 http://www.graphtecamerica.com/graphtec-america-faqs-video-software-video-faqs-cutting-master-2

RIP Banner John- gone but not forgotten

any debris or vinyl down in there?

picture above of the test cut shows an offset issue - corners are not sharp in the box nor the diamond

the fuser in the laser printer will melt the 651 imho

I have a 1965 mustang that the original owner put a eelco flip gas cap on. The original rubber that is about 3/16" thick had deteriorated after all those years and is no longer available - I found some rubber that is proper thickness - designed the holes for the mounting bolt and vent hole along with proper diameter (in graphtec pro studio) and put in the cb15u blade, that I use for rhinestone template and thick sandblast mask, - cut a perfect replacement gasket. never tell a sign/decal person that something can't be found - we make em.

notice you have several shades of black/gray in that file - convert it to all one color and bet those sections show up or just select the box that says "send all colors"

skeeter hit is right on the head early on - the offset definitely was not at 0 to begin with - I have had some software change the settings (flexi) on the plotter when I sent the project to cut. I have owned several roland and graphtecs and the graphtecs hands down will cut much finer detail than the rolands. not sure if skeeter mentioned it but I think the 8600 has a 2 position blade holder retainer - the blade holder needs to be in the back part of that retainer (blade position one)

Hard. Every time we pass over the bridge in put a Gouda where he took us in his boat. Great man and greatly missed

50 percent cotton will produce only 50 percent of the fibers being dyed as the sublimation ink will only adhere to the poly fibers - not to cotton. sublimation does not print white. dtg you will have to use almost daily or the heads will clog and you will have an expensive boat anchor. personally I use a ricoh printer (sawgrass) because it can sit for a few months unused and still fire right up - now you can buy several epsons for the price of a ricoh but in the long run you WILL be buying several epsons as they do clog - find a niche that works for you that doesn't include the costly equipment and if you are printing what everyone else is printing you will have to compete on price . . . which never works out in the long run

where are you getting your mugs? coating has to be spot on even = best mugs I used over the years were from Marck in toledo ohio - cost more but the mugs were always perfect and very durable unlike some of the cheaper ones I purchased that had uneven coating and many broken handles

second guess - does the plotter do anything when the media lever is released - have seen the switch for that not work from bent media lever. for troubleshooting purposes - you could go into the menu and disable the media sensors to see if the rest of the machine works

an aqueous based ink will never bite into or dry properly on a vinyl that is not specially coated for aqueous inks. you need specially coated vinyl made for aqueous inks - and where that coating is applied to the vinyl is where the product usually fails after a year or so. to properly print onto regular vinyl (even then should be made for printing on) use either a solvent, latex or thermo resin printer.

was your plotter grounded to the stand prior to this? how long have you had the plotter? has it been working up until now?

I am sure in your rewiring you reseated all the ribbon cables and blew the board off real good with air? salts in mice pee would possibly be conductive even after drying . . . just throwing out an idea to check

first step I would reinstall the printer driver itself after downloading direct from roland - in case that got corrupted. I am guessing that this is the same computer that you printed from the day before? have you tried replacing the cord (not sure if bn-20 uses a usb or a network cable). personally I always had 2 computers set up to print from so I would try the other computer. Nothing to do with your problem but a side note and advice for a newbie: Make sure you leave the printer plugged in so it can do the self cleanings 3-4 times a day by itself - your print head is one of the most expensive I have seen and once clogged the nozzles on a solvent printer don't come back like on a aqueous printer - that little bit of ink a day it uses to clean is just a cost of doing business and much less than a print head.

After vectorizing the image, delete the raster portion, that is why the box

All plotters use registration marks outside of the image to cut and need a margin around the image that I have used, but then mostly I have used solvent printers and some pigment based for garments. Curious why you would want to print registration marks within your image where they would be visable in the final product?

She said pose here, I thought for the turtles Not cutter related but I know several old timers that will see the humor