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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/29/2014 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I wonder if your browser is giving you trouble? Maybe? Oh I remember....you need to send $100 to everyone on the forum who has more posts than you, that's what it is. Ha ha!
  2. 3 points
    1) Make sure your surface is squeaky clean. You can use RapidTac to clean with, but they recommend using RapidPrep to remove all traces of silicon, wax, oil, grease, etc. If the surface has been coated with Rain-X or similar products, your decal won't stick well. 2) Make sure you use the proper application fluid - original RapidTac is formulated for cast vinyls, RapidTac II is formulated for calendared vinyls and cold weather installation, temps down to 20° F 3) Make sure your surface temperature is proper. I don't know the specs for Greenstar vinyl, but for most Oracal products, they recommend a minimum surface temp of 46° F - an exterior window temp which can be hard to find around where I am this time of year! 4) Make sure you squeegee the living #*$% out of the tape - if liquid is still coming out around the edges, then you haven't squeeged enough. 5) Make sure you're using paper tape - it sounds like you already are, but for the benefit of anyone else reading... When I've followed these rules, I've never had a problem with a wet install.
  3. 3 points
    I have had gmail since it was in beta and you had to have an invite before you could sign up. Hundreds of my customers have it. It would be foolish to change it now for no good reason. I depend on my work to make me look professional...not my email. I have a domain name complete with email. I can count on one hand the times I have used it.
  4. 2 points
    sorry, not in the mood for lettering.... harrisburg_hornet.eps
  5. 1 point
    why not ask for a picture now? I do. It is amazing how they never have a camera. LOL. You can tell if it has been installed. And the transfer tape is off. If it was sent priority mail, It is insured. Then they file a claim with the Post office. If it's a cheap decal, you can replace it, and life goes on.... You might as well get used to people, who have no business applying decals. I have had customers tell me "they scraped the ice off their window,, and applied the decal, and it didn't stick." Then complain. (They lived in New York and about 10 degrees out) You might as well get used to people with no common sense. There are many out there.. I had 1 EBAY customer tell me, "you should have told me before I bought this, that I could not apply it now" LOL. I told that customer, Lowes and Home Depot, sell exterior house paint 365 days a year, BUT does that mean you should go out and paint your house at zero? It's called "common sense", and do your homework before making a purchase... I always include cold weather info with any order now. That is the first thing they see, when they open the package. Right on top.
  6. 1 point
    most larger items can be broken down into sections like when doing a 4x8 - and I think a lot of us prefer working with the smaller width to apply - just makes it easier, some time try laying a sheet of masked real wide and long material!
  7. 1 point
    heck I'll even go so far and to say I use my business gmail way less than my personal one . . .even though the business one is what i advertise
  8. 1 point
    Have you checked into the price of a commercial embroidery machine? A word of caution, be sure and have someone ready to pick you up off the floor when you do because you may need some assistance. It starts to make sense why those guys want so much for their work once you see what they have to pay for a good machine.
  9. 1 point
    And let's not forget that you can get a custom window mesh printed from the big auction site for $80 (delivered) -- you would have to generate a lot of jobs (about 1000) before you recoup an investment of $8000 or so.
  10. 1 point
    I just have a swing away from USCutter and it has done great but I will some day upgrade. I bought a perfect press pad from Stahls and use it lots for shirt sleeves and crest prints when there are buttons or seams nearby. I think mine is a 5"x6" pad. They have a whole assortment that you can buy in a group or one at a time. I just bought the one once I saw the price. I haven't tried a mouse pad but it would probably work too although it will be a little thinner than the press pad is. I also have a couple press pillows that are SUPER handy when you need one. My main one is about 12" x 12" or some such and I use it when I have a previously applied graphic on the back side that I don't want to get hot or if there are shirt seams that are up on the press as smaller shirts tend to be. If you have a seam near your image it can cause adhesion problems or wrinkles. The other press pillow I have is 5" x 16" (i think ) and is a must have for pant legs and long sleeves where you can pretty much guarantee a seam messing you up.
  11. 1 point
    http://sunie.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1 My press nothing fancy and actually to my surprise presses nice is evenly heated. down fall is ya burn your knuckle on the heat platen more then ya think. but for $300 its made 4x its money worth back
  12. 1 point
    What OW said plus I use alcahol to do my last cleaning. Glass is one of the harder surfaces to get vinyl to adhere to especially in cold weather. I also cut away any ecess paper to let the liquid disapate easier.
  13. 1 point
    This is how I would do it. mark-s
  14. 1 point
    Buy some of those reusable hand warmers to keep in your car - you throw them in boiling water until the insides turn liquid and they're good to go again and again. And they're FUN! When you boil them, the crystals inside go back into solution and store that thermal energy until you click the metal disc inside and cause it to re-crystalize and then the crystals "freeze" and release all their thermal energy back as warmth. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=reusable+hand+warmer&_sop=15 The cheap air-activated ones that come in the orange plastic pouches at the checkout counters of most hardware/sporting good stores work great, too, but the pouches tend to delaminate if they get shuffled around a lot, so I recommend storing them inside a zip top bag to keep air out and keep them warming prematurely...
  15. 1 point
    Wait for it... Wait for it... IT COSTS HOW MUCH FOR A STARTER PRINTER?
  16. 1 point
    LOL, I went the other way.. $3000 Graphtec vinyl cutter, $100 Flexistarter cutting software. Got a deal later on a legal Flexidesigner 10 for $120. Perfect cuts.... Expensive cutting and design software, cannot make a hobby/value cutter, cut any better than it is designed to do.
  17. 1 point
    All that I've seen and read the first layer just needs a few seconds. Just enough to make it adhere to the shirt. then the full 12 to 15 sec. for the both.
  18. 1 point
    had a 50" - hardly ever used the 30" (but if upgrading to a graphtec fc I would seriously consider a 30") so went back to 24" --- not as much selection in 30" and don't even remember ever seeing 36" media
  19. 1 point
    PM sent to sign torch. lesson learned never download anything off a free vector website without searching for copyright details
  20. 1 point
    Your shirts look good.
  21. 1 point
    Put me on everything. PUT ME ON EVERYTHING.eps
  22. 1 point
    Can't share license agreement says no. But you can go to signtorch and get it there. Just do search for plotter. Sorry but not gonna lose the right to use em.
  23. 1 point
    Before you judge me on anything read some of my posts and you will find I have been in heated arguments about MH cutters and my personal opinion of them is not high but check around before you bash Uscutter because there are tons of other companies selling the exact same cutter. I had a Seiki, Master, Laserpoint 1 and Laserpoint 2 before I got a Graphtec and all but the MH did what I wanted and the LP1 was so good to me I resold it when I bought the Graphtec and I still have the LP2 and use it for overflow work when I'm busy. The Master died through no fault of it's own ( a 200 lb. file cabinet fell on it and destroyed it) the Seiki did finally die after 2 years of regular use and the MH was resold to somebody in the Bronx who ended up buying a new cutter less than a month later because he was unhappy with it too. Many on here love their MH cutters and use them daily but they also understand that they are not top of the line machines and do not expect them to look or operate like a top of the line machine. I think your expectations are way too unrealistic for the money you spent.
  24. 1 point
    Don't remove the teflon strip. It is there for a reason. Only remove the protective tape that is on top of it, to protect it from scratching and gouging it, when shipping.... Your welcome.
  25. 1 point
    If I were set on breaking the law and violating copyright I'd just google it and find a clear black and white image and auto trace it. But that would be illegal and not advised by me.