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I cut glitter flake on my graphtec with 2 passes, pressure 23 and speed 10 with a cleancut 60* with no problems. My blade is adjusted so you can see the cut lines.

I got some to try also. I noticed it felt about as thick as some reflective I had and cut it like it was the same thing. Raised the pressure an indicated 40g and did 2 passes, it came out with no problems. Probably could of used a bit less pressure. 60 degree blade.

I have 3 blade holders and 1 for regular Htv/sign vinyl and 1 for flock ,glitter and halogram and 1 for sticky flock material. The one for flock and glitter I set the blade so it makes a outline of the cut when its finished but it don't cut thru the carrier. that way I know it cut and it weeds easy. I use a 60* cleancut blade on everything I cut. my settings are. speed 10 pressure 20 blade angle offset 45 offset 0 passes 2 Cuts perfect all the time. I like to see the outlines in all cut projects.

Thank you all for the kind words. Had to blast outdoors as it will not fit in my cabinet. I used sand. I was surprised at the texture it gave me. Ran about 60 pounds and it required two passes with the gun. I wonder what would happen if I used colored sand ?

Unite is a better method if you can get it to work for you. Merge will create a separate object in every open space that the cutter will cut. You can go in and select one of the unfilled sections then select all with the same fill characteristics up in the select menu or on the appropriate button on the toolbar along the top but it's an easy thing to forget and the cutter will appear to make double passes on each opening. I would also suggest after expanding the text (Shift,Command,o is the shortcut) that you then do a Command,8 which will make the text a compound path. All the functions in the pathfinder menu will work properly at that point, however, keep an eye on the compound path over in the layers because a lot of the time if you preform a function on text illustrator makes it back into a group. Not a biggie unless you have more to do with it at which time the behavior is usually superior as a compound path. Might want to toggle the preview/outline at the top of the view menu to see just the lines. This is what your cutter see's and if you have lines crossing that happen to be in the same color (as in text that overlaps etc) then you won't like results.

G R I M C O I used to basically make 90% of all my signs using the MaxMetal, and it's available in colors (remember, however, the colors are different on each side --- Red/Yellow Blue/Green) Also, if it's a single side sign (against a wall, for instance) you can use the less-expensive crisp white with mill-finish raw backing. You'll be able to literally cut it with a utility knife, by scoring through one side of the aluminum laminate with a few passes and then snapping the piece(s) off. (your knife blade will dull each time, but they're dirt cheap anyway when purchased 50 at a time) I used the MaxMetal for H-Frame inserts all the time (2'x3') -- a 4'x8' sheet will yield 5 and the scrap (drop) piece (1'x2') is delightful for any sort of small sign (mainly I used them for wayfinder signs).

I'm going to soon attempt a decal that will take 3 passes on 24" rolls. Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or advice on how to do this? I'm using a Cutting Master 3 and cutting a nice size tree. Thanks in advance!

Hello! First of all I wanted to thank you guys for this community! I am building my own wedding favors and I need help with vinyl. I wanted to print simple black and white images however I can't seem to find INKET VINYL information. I found this website and another one selling the Papilio line of inkjet transparent vinyl however I don't want to order because I'm not sure if its the right one. I want to do window cling transparent vinyl similar to the ones that for example parking passes or change your oil stickers are made of. any advice will do. thanks in advance!

Hm, Ya the one I was looking at was a returned model, still new though and had a 60* extra blade holder and stand with the extra pinch roller (which actually may have caused it to be a problem for real small stuff (not sure about that). They had a "deal at $4,200 here locally. I think it was regularly $4,500. I got into my Summa for about $3,200 with the stand and extra blade holder (no extra pinch roller as Summa doesn't recommend it.) I was really looking for tracking because that was what my biggest beef was with the budget cutter and the tracking on this thing is literally insane. As for the thicker stuff, the two times I have encountered something I couldn't get through with 400g of force I just made a double pass. A little tricky to figure out what pressure to make two passes with because the test cut only does one so had to guess a bit but it's so accurate that you can't tell it went over it again.

chip blade? nice with flexi you can set it to over cut, cures any problem. Just for the heck of it maybe have him set it to two passes on cut and see if it still does it, may need to lower force for two passes.

I have gone out to 6' so far for a banner, cut it in one shot no issues, but I run serial, on USB it would cut multi passes or a line down the vinyl. The last time it ran the blade down the vinyl as described it was after I updated to 3.053 and had to back it done to 3.051. I am running 3.059 and no issues and now has tiling

So having yur business card or flyer on a bulletin board is "unprofessional"...if so thats so f'n stupid. I have my card at on the board at my local barber shop, my local supermarket, laundrymat, and post office. Theres nothing unprofessional about it. Now you wanna here about advertising that is unprofessional yet really genius! Around here its called "Stare Advertising"..its placing boards and business ads on the wall right infrontof the urinal in public restrooms! So as im holding my manhood and peeing i can read local and statewide business ads! And trust me...i would rather hear "oh i saw your ad on the board at the supermarket"...than this "hey man i saw your ad as i was taking a piss". Also look up the term "professional"..it varies depeing on the said "profession".. Our profession is essentially graphics and advertising with such graphic media..so anyway that we can inform our potential customers of our service should be "professional".Thus having a card or flyer in a high traffic public area is professional. Nailing my card to a tree in the woods would be unprofessional..as not many people are gonna see it. And anyone who passes up free advertising is just stupid! So i dont think having my card on a bulletin board is unprofessional at all. Any way of getting your name to potential customers is a plus..

I got some cause I thought a client wanted me to make backstage passes, well he cancelled that order and I did the stupid thing of preordering before the order was made. Now I have 25 poker chips and curious if anyone has done them, what kind of problems you ran into, or any secrets on how to press them.

offset - http://www.vinylforum.org/smf/resources/offset-diagram/ overcut is how far the blade passes beyone the ending point and cuts a little further

Spray this on one side of your Acetate Krylon 10-1/2-Ounce Easy Tack Repositionable Adhesive Spray ( best deal is on Amazon ) Place it on parchment or Freezer paper sticky side down, this will eliminate the need for a carrier sheet. Don't hog through it with one pass I usually use 3 - 4 passes.

If you layer transparent vinyls, you'll end up adding colors - red & yellow makes orange, yellow and blue makes green, etc. Layering multiple colors will also darken the design and make it more difficult to see without adequate back light. You will also reduce the readability of text when using transparent vs. opaque vinyls as the light passes through rather than reflects back to the viewer's eye. Traditionally transparent vinyls are for backlit signs or replicating stained glass looks... Printed window perf is the preferred method for window art that you want to see through...

im using CorelDraw x6 for designs and a Graphtec ce5000-60, I just started using flexistarter10.0.3 with the Graphtec cutter plotting controller. Questions: 1. im using a new 60deg blade,blade out a credit cards thickness,force 17,speed 6 & quality1. I still get some marks/lines on the back of the carrier paper but the image is still hard to weed, what process do some of you guys use out there? should I do 2 passes with lighter force? 2.is using flexi starter better than using Cutting Master 3?

a vehicle sign needs to be read and understood in 3-5 seconds as it passes - most would never figure it out before it is gone

I did the ribbon in two passes. First the outline then peeled the interior and gave it a quick once over to get a good frost. I did this on the front but should have done it on the back. It still looked great but would have been more useable on the back, not that they will likely use it for a plate. I got it all cut before I thought about going on the back side and didn't feel like cutting and weeding a whole second time.

I have some of the thick 3M reflective I'll trade for that if he passes. It's like duct tape, I can't use it at all. I'll have to look and see how much I have, but thinking it's two 5' rolls of 54" material.

Just trying to work out if it's a SignCut, cutter or Keyspan problem. What do you all think? Ok, so here's an update for those who might have some useful ideas. 1. I am able to cut an existing design, even though I can't calibrate my cutter. 2. I can contour-cut using SignCut, and can jog the cutter using my USB 10-key keyboard. 3. Keyspan passes all tests. When I try to calibrate, that's when I run into problems, which generally result in my entire PC locking-up. This makes me not want to keep trying to calibrate because I don't want to harm my PC, but why would my cutter cut an existing design but not want to calibrate? Is calibration from SignCut somehow different with my existing hardware? So, it can't just be a SignCut problem, can it? I need help here if anyone has enough expertise to lend some useful advice. Thanks! I am going to call SignCut soon as they're open.

As much as I hate how much of a scam Md inspection for vehicles can be , the inspection station usually always catch problems like described . Once inspected , never needs inspection again . WV requires an initial and a yearly inspection , but it seems if it stops within the parking lot and has lights it passes . I had a Peterbilt tractor inspected and it took 5 minutes . Tn and many states ( Florida ) does not require having a used vehicle safety inspection . I am glad there was no horror story ending for you guys

I am using the cutter for cutting flock. I have tried a whole range of settings from adjusting the speed,force, offset but have not needed to cut two passes as it weeded ok apart from the corners it's not cut from. I used the plotter pen that drew circles and square which are pretty much great. But when it comes to cutting them on the flock the circle are not round, it cuts the square with rounded jagged corners. Please help!

Jaybird is spot on about the size too. 15"x15" at least or you will regret it real quick. You can press in two passes if you have to but if you have a 15" you won't need to very often. I'm not a cowboys fan but I have plenty of fun with stuff I wear but don't sell.

Or, the software has been set to cut multiple passes...