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Found 346 results

  1. Dalhimar

    Considering a Prismcut

    So let me start off with the fact I'm new to the world of these cutting machines. I've worked with CNC systems and graphics however, so I'm hoping the knowledge gap won't be too significant. I'm looking at doing projects ranging from fabric cutting, chipboard/balsa, and possibly some plastics and papercraft as well as some basic plotting From the specs and very limited reviews I've seen, the Prismcut p28 seems like it fits my needs nicely. I was hoping that those with experience with this, and other comparable equipment in the price range could chip in and review it now it's been on the market for a bit. I do have a few specific questions as well. 1: The manual states that the machine shouldn't have an issue with materials 2mm and under in thickness. Is this due to clearance, strength of the motors, blade mounting or something else? For instance the carrier sheets seem to mostly be listed as .5mm thickness on, would that limit me to using materials that are only up to 1.5mm thick when using a carrier? Or could I use something like a 1.5mm material as a carrier and still safely cut 2mm thick material on top of it? What would be the upper limit in total material thickness including the carrier that could be fed through? Would I be able to use a 3 or 4mm material if my intent was only to score it? 2: Are there any planned attachments, mods, upgrades or accessories in the works? For instance a roller/disc style drag knife blade replacement (specifically a cutting head for fabrics), a tangential cutting path upgrade, etc. 3: How well does its functional accuracy hold up on long jobs with repeated cutting paths. For example if I was cutting a material that had length dimensions in the 36 to 72 inch range (specifically thinking of fabric or leather panels for jackets and trenchcoats) that required multiple passes, how much variance should I expect, how much could be attributed to slippage of the carrier vs the limitations of the motors. I'm curious because a job with a relatively long length on a carrier (think trenchcoat panels made of denim or leather) could get weighty, potential increasing tracking issues. 4: Are there carrier or material guides to ensure materials are fed in at the correct angle? If not, are attachments planned for this, or are compatible ones available? To use the last question as an example, if I'm cutting a job that is pretty long and the cuts are near the edges of the material, while at the start all the cuts are within the boundries of the material by the end they may creep over the edge if not guided. 5: For the pen plotting tool, what ink cartridges can you use? Is it limited to some random size only available from the manufacturer, or could I use something I could acquire at a local store. 6: When reading through the manual I don't remember seeing what brand or compatible blades these use. When I need to replace a blade what should I get? (A page at the end of the manual listing user replaceable components and whats compatible might be a good idea) 7: The manual mentioned a laser etching tool and required training to unlock its functionality. It does not state how one could acquire either though, neither does the product page or website unless I missed something. Could we get clarification on how one obtains either? 8: For large jobs where a standard carrier size sold on UScutter won't work, say a 24x48, 24x60 or longer, what's a recommended material and or supplier I could use that fits the answer to #1? Finally 9: For the price range, the specs, the accessories, the features and real world results, how would you rate the Prismcut against competitors? Details or examples would be appreciated. I realize not everyone will be able to answer everything I've asked, but any feedback would be greatly appreciated
  2. Repeat cutting over the same cutfile is usually because of the following reasons: The artwork has been duplicated i.e. there is a perfect copy of the artwork on top of itself. By using the Object Manager from the Design Center (right side of program) you can see all the objects. Also, select the artwork and press delete, if it remains then there was a duplicate and there maybe more than one. This can happen when artwork is selected and pressing the + key or Duplicate button from the toolbar. Passes in the Send to Cut module has been set to 2 or more. Some cutters have an option to Repeat cut. Removing duplicates, settings passes to 1 or setting Repeat cut off should resolve this issue.
  3. haumana

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    I'm not sure if I missed it or not, but what software are you using to cut, and if required, is it activated? Have you tried to cut your design using a different cutting software? There is a time and place to do 2 passes. I don't know the rigidity of the vinyl you're using, but how are you doing the 2 passes? (i.e. one at a time, or layering the design twice and sending it to the cutter once?)

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    The MH cutter does not have good tracking, so cutting vinyl like that probably will not cut correctly with 2 passes. Never mind saw the thickness. You should not need 2 passes to cut that. Use 1 pass.

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    Why are you doing 2 passes? If the blade is set correctly, and you could cut it with the blade holder. no need to cut 2 passes.
  6. haumana

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    I have an original LP and my base settings, after getting the proper blade exposure, is 60 speed, and the pressure varies between 80-105 depending on what type, color, and age of vinyl. It it's a thicker material, I make 2 or more passes. If I have to do a double layer of vinyl, like reflective on any kind of vinyl base, that will usually take 3 or 4 passes. If it's an intricate detailed graphic or small text, then I slow the machine down. I cannot speak for anyone else, but when I start getting perforated type cuts, I take a look at my blade holder - to make sure it's clean, because itty bitty bits of vinyl will work its way up the in the small blade holder hole (which completely boggles my mind), and I also take a very good look at the cutting strip. I will shamefully admit needing to change the cutting strip on my LP several times because I wasn't paying attention to when my origin was and the blade and carriage just ran off the vinyl and started to cut in the strip, which isn't as self-healing as I would like it to me. You didn't state how old/new your machine was, but you can also check the blade tip, or maybe just replace the blade all together. I recommend CleanCut Blade(s), and a 60-degree blade to add to your machine accessories. Good luck, keep us posted.

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    same as regular sign vinyl. Oracal 651 is 2.5 and most calendered vinyl is 3 mil. You don't need 2 passes. You should be able to see how well it is cutting when you do a test cut.
  8. Jaaay

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    for the most part, i think i’ve gotten this down. Only 2 issues i’m having now is that the cutter is cutting this random line right through the design when it begins to start cutting. Also, when i tell the machine to do 2 passes itll go through the first cut perfectly fine then on the second it just comes out sloppy.
  9. mihaidimitras

    Graphtec 8600 vs 9000

    yes i did try multiple passes and the blade holder starts to get clogged with dust like particles from the sheet . It struggles especially when cutting words.

    Graphtec 8600 vs 9000

    The Graphtec FC9000 just came out. I have not seen anyone purchase it yet. They should be getting rid of inventory on the FC8600. I don't see any major changes. I own a FC8000. and FC7000. I don't see that much changed, other than 2 users can set conditions. They still have the same force. All of the FC cutters are built like a tank. And are heavy duty. My FC8000 was bought used and was set up for reflective, They added 2 extra pinch rollers and were using the red top blade holder. It is a 30" wide cutter. The FC9000 has the same force as my FC7000 that is over 10 years old. According to specs the Titan 3 has 750 gram force, which is more than the Graphtec FC vinyl cutters at 600 gram force. Have you tried making multiple passes with the Titan 3?
  11. any cutter would probably need multiple passes. better to do multiple than stress the motor and carriage. Any cutter with a servo motor will get you better accuracy over a stepper. if the Graphtec is within budget, definitely go that route! Get yourself some CleanCut Blades too.
  12. Thanks for the replies! We are looking to do about 1/8" to 1/4" deep with about 100PSI sand blaster. The reason for the 500 series material is the statement claiming for "porous substrates". There are many times we encounter "rough granite" and it would be nice to be able to work on that type of media. So the current census is a Graphtec CE6000, Sandmask 400 series with multiple passes? Thanks again
  13. ditto on the multiple passes.
  14. I have cut Hartco 425 with my Graphtec, but it is a little thinner material, i just cut it with 2 passes
  15. haumana

    Glow in the dark self-adhesive printable vinyl?

    I think you got the right stuff Scott. I actually bought a sheet from my local vinyl/sign warehouse here. I wish I bought more because they stopped carrying it. I snipped some off and trying to cut it, it was wicked thick and required more than a few passes, which the LP wasn't too happy with (especially isn't is stepper and doesn't track super accurate for fine cuts). Dumb question - can that kind of stuff be run through any vinyl printer? or does the printer really only work on specific media?
  16. Wildgoose

    titan 2 cutting issues

    If you are prefeeding and it will run straight on the way out but not stay straight on the way back, all this while no blade touching then you have a tracking issue for sure. They usually don't recommend messing with the tension on the pinch rollers but possibly one got messed with or has become weak. We have seen new owners immediately start cranking on the pinch roller springs and get all sorts of wonky. If you can get it running true in and out without a blade then adjust your blade appropriately and it starts dragging the vinyl out of track then you could have weak pinch rollers. (not common) Most of the time we see set up being wrong and too much force being applied which causes bunching and off-track. A remedy can be as simple as a high quality Clean Cut blade that uses less force to cut with. Cutting stencil though is probably rough and tough with lots of pressure. I make a couple passes if I cut stencil so I don't abuse my machine but mine has great tracking and will stay in the same grove.
  17. All you have to do is put the word passes in the search bar upper right corner. Click options Scroll thru all the results like I just did, Pages and pages of topics, that we have told the OP to use 2 or more passes for what ever they were cutting.
  18. ShaneGreen


    Definitely get you a "CleanCut" blade. It cuts reflective so much better. Slow down as slow as it can go and you may still have to do 2 passes. I have a LP II and have spent days testing and retesting reflective. I've finally settled on: - a 60 degree CleanCut blade, - 450g of force. "Force" seems to be pretty relative and varies from machine to machine. I cut 651 at 125g but I've seen people say they use anywhere from 50 to 200. But mine needs roughly 3 1/2 times the force to cut reflective. - a speed of 100. That's the slowest mine will go. - two passes. It will cut in one pass the majority of the time, but I cut larger decals and when it doesn't complete the cut I'm wasting a lot of time and money. - weed immediately. Reflective seems to self-heal a lot quicker than 651. - be careful of fine details. Things like the dot on the letter "i" may cause you problems staying stuck to the backing paper. - Test, test and test some more.
  19. I do two passes and I’m cutting through laminated Calendared vinyl. Vinyl is 11mil and laminate it 3 mil. 2 contour cuts and they pop out nice and clean. Sometimes you have to play with pressure to fine tune it.
  20. It has been posted many,many times on here about making multiple passes. It's not just magnet material. It's sticky flock. glitter HTV material, carbon fiber, reflective and many other thick materials. According to the UScutter buying guide, your not even supposed to cut high intensity reflective that is over 23 mil, but people do it and do it with 2 or more passes. But their taking that chance of tearing up their machine doing it. Here is the buying guide. You don't see magnet on the buying guide.
  21. I don't understand what you're saying? I asked a question asking how the multiple passes physically works? If the blade is either fully down or fully up, how exactly does multiple passes work? If the blade advances let's say 200 microns down each pass, this would be understandable to me as it's taking less of a 'bite' of the material per pass and is how other types of machines with a Z axis work. (CNC background) Sorry if I sounded confusing
  22. How does multiple passes work exactly? Does the solenoid somehow increase the depth on each subsequent pass? Otherwise, I don't understand how this works. I will gladly try multiple passes if you can explain how the feature works. The magnet material is loaded into the plotter with the 3M kraft paper (adhesive liner) facing up due to the way the magnet material is rolled.
  23. Wildgoose

    cutting mylar

    5 MM is something like 200 mil. I doubt it's THAT thick. More likely 5 or 6 mil which is .005 or .006 inches (around 0.15 mm) If it's 5 mm you aren't going to be cutting it with a regular cutter. Assuming it's not too thick to cut through. Stick it to your mew mat and start some test cuts. You may find that two or even three passes is necessary. I have some stuff I had to do two passes or one nearly maxed out pass and I liked the two passes better because it wasn't dragging so hard on the plastic which caused more weird deflection during the cut. It's a PIA to figure out what pressure to use for a two pass cut and I just dedicated a scrap to mess with and kept slowly increasing the pressure until I got it where I liked it. With a cutting mat you don't have to worry about cutting through.
  24. Ok, this was a really weird problem yesterday that I mentioned in another thread, but wanted to open this topic and see if anyone had an idea. Vinyl Master Pro on Win10 and Laser Point II. So I'm cutting a sign yesterday out of reflective and don't want to waste the expensive material so I fill the rest of the width with some clipart piece. There will be 4 different colors of vinyl used for the two jobs so I use "Send To Cutfile". In VM a "cutfile" is essentially a new image with a layer/page for each color of vinyl. This allows you to run a bunch of different images as one job for each color. I've used it a ton of times with no problem...until yesterday. The first issue is that within a cutfile there is a command, "cut this page." The command works fine, but doesn't give you access to the "Send To Cutter" screen, so you can't do multiple passes. I've got to run two passes to insure the reflective cuts all the way. Since "Cut This Page" won't do multiple passes you have to ignore that included feature and use the "Send To Cutter" at the top of the page. I'm wondering if this is causing part of the problem. The big issue happened when I started cutting. Everything is running along fine, doing two passes, until I get to the registration marks I'd added to the clipart. It cut each registration mark 8 times (or 4 times with 2 passes each, maybe)! Cut anything 8 times and you're going to have trouble. The registration marks lifted from the page and stuck to the blade holder to be drug around the image. The blade finally cut through the backing paper in places. - VM registration marks are a 5 piece image: 4 triangles and an octagon center. But it cut them out as two opposing triangles and then the remaining two and the octagon were one piece. Very weird. - VM states that registration marks are created once, but in a special color, rather than once per color/layer. Then when sent to the cutter, that special color is cut by default. That way you can create your own registration marks. - It did this on all three colors that had the clipart. - I verified, twice, that there were no copies of the mark hiding behind the other. - The clipart cut fine by itself, only cutting the registration marks once. I then created a new cutfile with just the clipart and it was fine. I added registration marks to another image and set it to 2 passes and it worked fine. So now I can't reproduce the problem, but it happened 3 times yesterday. This blade isn't going to hold up long if it does this again. Any ideas?
  25. Hello I have a titan 3 vinyl cutter, i printed some text on a HP Latex 365 i did the contour cut option, everything printed well with registration marks. When i put it in my cutter and give the command to start it does not red the markings just passes on top and on the screen it says marks not detected, even if it detects the line one time when it goes for the second registration it misses it. Can someone tell me what i can do?