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Yes found problem after decicded to change the head was encoder gave it a good clean all back and running again

You would be amazed at how many businesses that I interact with, who do not have their own artwork for one reason or another. I often dread having to recreate someone else's logo because it seems like reinventing the wheel, but it's the same wheel without any improvements

The other option would be to analyze the design and figure out a way to break it into smaller pieces. Add in some registration marks to get it all lined back up and you're good to go.

Jimbo, you got a solution that was offered 15 years ago, which is a fine testament to the effectiveness of these Forums and its Search functionality. By the way, 'mobby' was one of the most-well-versed people regarding SignBlazer, as he was personally familiar with the developer (Jerry Bonham). All of that is water under the bridge, of course, but it's great to see people are still able to obtain "Help" on a program that's long since been abandoned in the marketplace.

DXF files are not really cutter friendly. They look like a constant line, but they are actually several line segments and are typically not joined. VM can't do a contour, because it doesn't see a shape to contour cut around. You will need to join all the segments in order to create a shape. I might be as simple as joining the 3 areas circled below or you might need to join every single little line segment. Some software has the ability to automatically join line segments that are close enough, although this can give some funky results some times. I believe Inkscape has this ability. If you can get the file as an eps, ai, or svg rather than a dxf that would be the easiest way to go.

Update! Since we're in Hawai'i, Graphtec recommended that we check with a local authorized repair shop rather than send the whole thing to continental US. We called up the recommended shop and after hearing of our issue asked, "when did you last replace the plunger?" They noted that those can stop working, preventing the blade from spinning/rotating. We ordered a new plunger from them and we're back in business! We finished out the 15mil synthetic job and are getting through the 10mil job as I write this. The old plunger has been marked and is still good enough for most of our paper jobs. I did let the boss know about the other blades you folks recommended. Thank you

. Has this cutter ever cut correctly? Is it new or used? Your cutter is a value cutter with a cheap Chinese chipset on it,, will take a bit of fine tuning to cut correctly. Best to use with a Tripplite Keyspan Adapter and your null modem cable. Setting your blade depth correctly is the first thing you have to get correct, You do not use the depth of a credit card or post it notes. That is way too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. You set the blade depth to the vinyl you will be cutting.( Instructions below). For blade offset, start at 0.25mm and adjust at 0.05 to be correct. Show your test cuts from the TEST cut feature on the machine. That has to be correct first, before you cut anything. Square should be square. You could also ad a little overcut in your cutting software, but that is not going to fix what you have going on. You have to start with the correct blade depth first. this info has been posted on here hundreds and hundreds of times, it applies to any brand of vinyl cutter, except a Graphtec has a ZERO blade offset. Something that you will have to do if you haven't, if that cutter is on a stand, it needs grounded to the stand, or static from the vinyl, will stop the cutter. The tracking is not good on those cutters for larger designs. The memory is also not good for larger designs. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.

well actually has said the file shows "on downloads" so that raises the question, what does that mean? It's also possible to have multiple "download" locations so the first step is to determine what location the file is actually being downloaded to, and then what location Vinyl Master is looking at. Unfortunately, the way windows works now, and the way everything is going, the casual computer user, has no understanding of folder structures and file locations.

Hello All, I found the issue. The issue is a change in CM5. This is going to have to be a change for our faculty to know in their syllabi for art students. The change in CM5 from CM4 is this. On CM4 in illustrator your art board could be say 24 x 24 and in the file you know to add 2" right and left with no artwork in that space to allow for the grit rollers (1” each side) and an extra inch for the registration marks. If you loaded the sheet into the cutter regardless of the poll size in CM4 it would just find the marks, and contour cut the file. In CM5 Apparently the art board is now being considered when sending the cut job. So, for the last 13 years I’ve always done 24” wide by x length. So, when I had this issue, I assumed it was an issue in CM5, which it is, and kind of I guess, isn’t. So I adjusted my art board to 22” wide by 32” tall. Sent the file to our Canon ImagrPrograf 4000s on a paper size of 24 x 32 so the printer understood the file. Then in illustrator I left the art board at 22”. The poll size on the cutter is 22.5”. When I sent the file, it allowed it to find the marks and cut. But WHY change that setting after 12+ years??? UGH!!. I think this is also why the cutting page was rotating 90° I think the software doesn't know what to do with margins like that and just rotates it to fit. which kind of makes sense. thanks all for the adivce, and options. Now if I can only find a 2.x firmware for my Graphtech FC8600-60 to update so the version 3 firmware will take. but that's a different issue. Thanks again all. Jeremy

If I need to, I will recreate. When I do, I will rarely give the customer the electronic file of the work I've done, even though it would probably be the cleanest file they would ever get of their logo. If they do ask for the file, I may or may not charge them a "setup" or "digitization" fee to at least cover my time and effort. I get it though, I can sometimes clean up a logo while I'm still on the phone with customer during their initial phone call, then they are amazed - of course I send it to them water marked in a secured .pdf format. Hahaha.

Hi, I recently purchased an old Roland printer / cutter (CJ-500). I am unfortunately getting an error message that says 'PINCHROLL ERROR - LOST PINCHROLL' when I try to set up a sheet for cutting. I am not sure what to do or where to go from here. If anyone has any advice it would be very helpful. Thanks.

Did you see this cutter preform before buying? Ask the previous owner about the error. Not many people here who even own a Roland that answers questions. Probably more help at the Roland Forum . Roland has their own forum.

Everyone calls it the Z-Chip because it controls the Z-axis movement (the up/down of the cutting blade). Here's a video that explains the replacement process on the earlier models. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68rrkF6gFTE 1:25-1:55

The Z-chip as everyone calls it, is nothing more than a simple LM741 Op-Amp. Should be able to pick one up for about a $1.

Every once in a while, I come through with the goods! I probably would just throw the image into GIMP (free raster editor) and crop it there, and then import the final result to whatever level of VM I've got. Yeah, it's an extra step for a workaround, but it'll suffice, unless a higher level of VM is financially viable for that added functionality.

Thanks Riel. Due to it being Abandonware, along with the internal 'crack' that was applied (computer security gateway defenders will stop it from installing), it's not the most desirable program for people who are seeking to get into vinyl cutting these days. For the record, the download itself on that 'archive' website is located HERE --> https://archive.org/download/signblazer_setup7/signblazer_setup7.exe Oh, by the way, despite the goofy-looking interface, SignBlazerELEMENTS has a lot of great features, including text ARC; great node editing tools; welding and punch-through; drop-shadows and distortion effects; variety of Arrows; quick Kerning; text slant; easy borders; and much more. You are welcome to start a new topic on "Introductions" and tell us about your Rabbit, and what you produce with it, and any tips and tricks or business practices that can assist this community. You seem to be someone who wants to contribute, and that's always appreciated.

Ok, did some test cuts, came out great but what just blew me away was cutting some glitter. I hated working with glitter, the Graphtec just laughed at me and cut it amazingly. Wish I got this thing sooner. I spent several hours last week weeding glitter. Had I only known. ha!

blade depth first, because you're getting scratches on the vinyl where there shouldn't be any. if you have dialed in the right blade depth, then make sure you vinyl isn't tenting, or if you have a 3rd pinch roller, use it. off set, to try and tighten up the corners.

Believe you'rere right, Mike.... seems the 'LTR' Version of VinylMaster does not include the Tile Bleed (Overlap) Tools.

Just Blatant Advertising....................

Many people use THIS simple device ---

Bagged, poo...

Well, I bagged the Hexis idea...... newbie blew it

Sa, you are correct in the HExis being cast. Here is a link to what I bought - http://www.ebay.com/itm/110836734567?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 . This is my 1st time ever doing something to this extreme. I am frustrated to say the least. I suppose I might be exaggerating the wrinkles a little bit, but there are a few that are definitely noticeable at 5'. At 10'+ the vinyl looks great (i think?!)! I'll put a few pics up tomorrow. I am also having sticking issues from going down, peeling up, down, up, etc.. I know that I just need to go slow and lay it down easy. My door I did, was going great, until I got the main part below the window.. then it went to hell.. lol