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For the 2 or 3 members who were recently in a topic called "help" with a brand new person asking for help. I had to eject them from the conversation and ban them due to immediate attitude, foul language and an apparent unwillingness to take well meaning help with even the slightest grain of salt. I do think sometimes you guys get a little tough on the Mac people and I AM a mac people so I can say that without it being racist. <sarcasm> He/they read the worst possible tone into Skeeters response and while I was trying to send a calm down and rethink your response post he/they posted an f bomb thus ending our association with them. That kind of thing doesn't belong on the forum and I am writing this hoping they read it and realize they probably just pooped in the best bowl of cheerios they could have and good luck finding helpful people on any of the other user forums.

Still have the SRT8 Chrysler and I'm hoping to take it to the track soon. The time came to buy a newer vehicle and I wanted to make sure it'll tow the 2-ton beast to the track. Looking around for a dodge ram and dodge really screwed up flooding the market with their stupid quad cab. I wasn't about to buy a truck that I didn't fit comfortably in the back. Only 1 out of 10 rams I saw in my budget was a true crew cab and there was always something wrong with it. Ford on the other hand was killing it in the crew cab arena. I found plenty of nice examples and settled on the one I wanted. 2011 Ford F-150 FX2 with the 3.5L Ecoboost with only 70K miles on the clock. Black on Black with leather. Now I can comfortably tow the car to the track and not have to worry about making it home when I break it. So far the Ecoboost is giving me 16mpg around town and only needs regular gas. That alone saves me $70-80 a month in gas savings because I no longer have to run premium.

I tried a test to see how small I could cut a clean image. There were a couple of places I did a bad job weeding it was cut perfectly I just missed a little bit with the tweezers and dug it a little. I have some new tools on the way. I did this with my naked eye, it has some very tiny pieces. I've added the file so you can see the actual image I cut. PrismCut P20 45 deg blade set @ 400 and 70. VinylMaster LTR 4.2 stock image aprox size 1 1/2 x 3. Rick

Thought Id throw out this idea if you haven't seen them yet. There are lots of versions on Facebook right now. These are what I'm selling. I've sold quite a few in 4 different schools. Luckily, I had a good supply of colors and signs ready.

We will see you back after you discover that any credit card trick is about 10-20 times too much blade exposure -we deal with hundreds and hundreds of people that do this every year and come back saying they have bad cuts because of the too much blade exposure. the people helping on the forum have many years of experience -

I own a small family-owned graphic design company in North Carolina. I am on my 3rd cutter from US Cutter. This is not because they break easily but because my needs are growing along with my company so upgrading the cutter as the budget allows becomes necessary (we simply cannot afford a +$2k cutter out the gate). I started with a MH-871 and it still serves our needs today without a single hiccup reported. MY next cutter was a SC2 which kept things simple and afforded us to have a 2nd cutter to run larger die-cutting jobs. Fast forward to today as I just received my new Titan3. We purchased this cutter because we needed contour cutting when using Siser EasySubli and other printable vinyl. The ARMS feature was a huge factor as well as having a quiet servo motor. While it's too premature to issue my reviews of the cutter itself, my experience buying this cutter confirmed to me that I am with the right company. I financed this cutter purposefully because the bank would not lend me $1200 (too small of an amount) and I wanted to establish an additional line of credit as a sole-proprietorship. I will have this cutter paid for within 2 months. With that said, when I received correspondence from Karl Bowman, President of US Cutter about the status of my financed order, I was skeptical that the contact information provided was actually his information. When I realized that the day of my ship, that I had ordered VM Cut instead of SCAL, I tried calling Customer Service but was placed on hold for a prolonged period of time. As is customary of shipped software, you often cannot return it once it has shipped so it was imperative that I catch my shipment in time. I opted to call the contact info on my emails and was astonished that I actually got Mr. Bowman's direct number. When I explained my predicament, he was quick to fix it despite my order already shipping. It is a rarity to get the direct contact of the President as often advertised these days so this experience stood out as extraordinary to me. When my cutter arrived, the UPS man left it in a secure location but the exterior box had extensive water damage. The interior packaging was bone dry and the cutter operates as expected. This concerned me in regards to my warranty so I contacted Mr. Bowman (There was no time to return the cutter as I have orders waiting on this cutter). I now have an email stating that my damaged box will NOT void my warranty from the president of US Cutter as my CYA. I am writing this because there are so many who come on this forum and trash talk US Cutter vinyl cutters or the bad customer service experience they had. I should add that I have a Graphtec CE5000-CRP-40 that I am selling because the contour cut feature was simply too difficult to get the cutter to cooperate but I have always had a great experience with US Cutter vinyl cutters. SO spend your money as you wish but as for me & my family, I will stick with US Cutter as a loyal customer. I have only ever had to call them 3 times in the past and each time was an additional confirmation as to why I faithfully choose US Cutter each & every time for my equipment needs. I get a quality cutter at a price that beats the competition when I can buy 2 of these Titans for the cost of 1 Graphtec or Roland. I'm not knocking Graphtec but I get faster ROI and lower TCO with US Cutter every time!!!

Get that press out of the box! Heat press is really fun. ...and here are your first two shirts for yourself...I personally have one of each!

3 things is how do you plan to differentiate yourself from the hundreds of other people doing the same thing? have you researched problems with vinyl adhering to things like rough surfaces, easy clean paints and how do you plan to deal with those issues? do you plan on using non trademarked material to avoid legal issues? just observations from watching many many others go down that same road before you

I received the support message from VM today. They explained the process for others that want to know how to do this. In the Contour Cutting Wizard, select your make and model of cutter and set it to automatic (ARMS). Then select the ‘Mark Options’ tab and select the number of vertical marks to suit the job. Adding more marks will increase the amount of measurements your ARMS will make increasing your contour cut accuracy. Thank you to those who posted. I hope this helps the others looking for this feature.

In VinylMaster; When you Vector the Shape, be sure and tick the Boxes as shown Circled in Red. This will leave your new Vector Shape sitting squarely on top of your Bitmap Flower image. " Menu> Order> To Back " will leave you in with something similar to Figure A. Grab The Circle/ Ellipse Tool and create a Circle Directly over the center of your Flower. ( shown here in Yellow ) Select (click on) toy Raster (bitmap) Original Flower Line Drawing and Delete. This will leave you something like Figure B, here with Leaves Colored Yellow. You can then send to your Plotter and Cut each Color Separately. Pro Tip: If you would rather not Stack the 2 Layers (Single Layer Application), Trim the one layer against the other (or Punch with a Duplicate) and add a Welded Stroke for Overlap.

I created these signs for businesses remaining open during the crisis.

Great idea.... I've been trying to come up with a humorous t-shirt concerning the virus....THAT could work! I'm wearing my "Patience Tested" t-shirt today....it's appropriate as business is near nil!

Google (images) is your Friend.

No worries, we were all noobs at one point in time. And you have a cutter that is new to most all of us so specific help is not quite as plentiful.

I also sent Bill's wife a text this morning. As soon as this Covid-19 mess is over the wife and I will take a drive across state to take her to lunch like we did a couple of years ago.

One and done type of customer, the files will stay in the native software that I use to create the layout, but if there is a logo or some kind of graphic involved, you can be absolutely sure that I have their logo in .eps format. They will still have their own folder though. If it's a repeat customer, then the layout gets saved in both the native software, as well as exported as an .eps, so I can open it up in any compatible software. I work on multiple computers, but I only cut from one. The files are stored on a cloud, as well as a NAS, so their are readily accessible at any given time, from which ever computer or device I happen to be working on, regardless if it's a PC or Mac.

You must first set the blade depth correctly. There is too much misinformation about using a credit card to set the blade depth and this is incorrect. That is way too much blade exposed. This is the correct way to set the blade depth. For any vinyl that you are going to cut. This works. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.

Have you already bought the MH cutter? We usually try to get people to consider a step up to the SC. The MH have more issues being the rock bottom of the barrel.

If that's a "font" then the creator of it should be shot.

QUOTE> "My fonts (text) are cutting three times, ~almost~ every letter. I do I fix this and clean it up." Odd that it's 'ALMOST' every letter... Are you trying to (Auto) Vector Existing Letters or Create them from Scratch? (ALWAYS better, if possible, to Create New Text & Avoid Vectoring Existing Text) AND> "It does have multiples copies stacked on some but can't get them off. I tried to ungroup and all it says is to group." Perhaps you can Group them then Weld them to Create a Single Cut Line ?

Put in your pen tool and turn your blade offset to zero and see what pressure gets good results. Not much to it. Great way to learn your cutter without wasting vinyl.

I often get requests like that. If I can identify the font, then I will import the .jpg into SB, then type the text and shrink/stretch, adjust the kerning, and bold if necessary. It's a little more work, but in the end I get a much, much cleaner result. It's also a way for me to scale things - my clients will take a picture of a car door and give me at least one dim so I can scale it and then create what they want. It also makes for a very nick mock-up I do explain that if they take a crappy picture, or give me the wrong dim, than errors will fall upon them.

Also remember there's nothing wrong with a used cutter. I bought a used Summa D-60 in 2008 for way less than the $1000 you've got set aside for a cutter. I've been very happy with it so far. They are probably one of the best tracking cutters on the market. I had to replace the power supply and the cutting strip over the years., but that's it. I run Kleen Kut bladesand it jut keeps cutting. List price on a new Summa D-60 is $2290.00 Here's one if you're handy and can replace the X axis belt and live near Roanoke, Virginia. It's on eBay with a starting bid of $100.00 come with a computer as well. The media flanges that come with the cutter that are laying on top are one accessory that also aid in tracking of the vinyl. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184220275643?ViewItem=&amp;item=184220275643 Found the belt for $91.84 https://www.digiprint-supplies.com/en/summacut-assy-y-belt-d60-399-631-pbesusu6014.html?category= As MZ Skeeter said Graphtec are excellent also. Another one to look into is Roland.

If you have never ran a vinyl cutter before, then don't start with cutting a design. First you need to start with the TEST feature and set your vinyl cutter up. That is what the TEST feature is for. You have to set your blade depth, blade offset, and force first. Then type some text on your layout screen directly from the software and cut it. We don't know what kind of design you are cutting or whether it is even a vector design. Practice with typing text first and learn your cutter. This is the correct way to set your blade depth, which must be correct, before you set your other settings. Every cutter has to be fine tuned to cut correctly. This is correct way to set your blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.

It looks to be Valencia Sans with a Stroke and Warp added.