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storm2313, have you simply CALLED them? At no point do you indicate having a person-to-person conversation, but that's the step I would take. https://iifuture.com/contact-us/

This is a users forum so we are all pretty familiar with USC. I would say their phone support is a little weak and the techs are probably minimal specific knowledge because they sell so many different products. As for pricing and shipping they have always done me totally (and I mean TOTALLY) solid. I have had a few mistaken shipments that had something wrong, either damaged in transit or something missing. USC always made it right witout any issues at all other than the obvious time to re-ship something.

Reverse cut vinyl applied from inside of the car

It's that time of the year again! I made a metric ton of these last year for the 2020 grads. Someone who bought one last year from me also has a graduate this year and wanted the exact same one (with a different hashtag and year) so I made them one. I posted it on Facebook this morning and by 10 pm I have 15 more orders! I expect many more orders once more people see them. Already placed an order with USCutter for more vinyl, blank signs and stakes. I hope I have enough transfer tape to last, they were out of the 24" Greenstar I usually use... These things sell themselves!

Hello. This is my first post here. I got a SC2 cutter a little over a year ago primarily because a friend of mine needed some decals for his car lot. I was able to basically pay off the machine after two of his orders! Anyways, as of now vinyl cutting is more of a hobby for me. Earlier in 2020 I did a flag decal for my Flex and a coworker really liked the look and asked me if I could do something like that for him. He plays guitar so I wanted to combine the two. This is what I came up with. He is getting all kinds of comments on it and I learned a LOT on applying this sized vinyl from my first attempt on the Flex and the guitar flag on the truck!

Thank you for taking the time to register for this forum. I would encourage you to just make one post and put it in the appropriate bulletin board, posting the same request in multiple bulletin boards will not get you a bigger audience, nor will it expedite a potential response - in reality, it would most likely slow any kind of response. Yes, you can create a contoured design. It would help if you let us know what version of VM you are using - Cut, LTR, PRO, DSR, or XPT. If you are using PSV vinyl, you do not need to use a cutting mat, unless your intent it is not only contour cut, but to contour cut all the way through - which isn't really recommended. If you are using HTV vinyl, then you might want to use a carrier sheet, as there are times that the HTV will not properly grip the slick backing of the HTV in a consistent manner, causing slippage. Loading a carrier sheet is not any different than loading vinyl without one. You still need to properly set your point of origin, and you need to ensure it's aligned to minimize drift. There is inherent slack using a carrier sheet, so you don't need to worry about that, unless it's going to end up hitting something as the machine moves it back and forth through the cut window. It is entirely up to you whether you weed your design on or off the mat, it would be a personal preference, but if it's PSV, then there really is no need to use a carrier mat int he first place. By your last bullet point, I'm assuming that you want to contour cut a single color of PSV after it's been weeded and taped. If that's the case, you can give it a try just be aware of a few things - a) you would need to have registration marks for the cutter to line everything up properly, b) your wide swath of app tape might adhere more than you'd like to your carrier sheet that already has some tack to it, c) your cutter wasn't necessarily designed to cut that level of thickness, therefore the amount of drag on the blade might be detrimental to your machine. Most of us not bother to contour cut PSV, unless the design happens to be a square/rectangle, or triangle, or something else happens to be convenient as I'm using my straight edge and rotary cutter. Contour cutting is typically used when printing, then cutting. I'm sure someone else will also have a suggestion or recommendation as well.

Windows can update all sorts of things, what one would never think affects something else ... but it does. It's Windows, that's what it does time to time. Anytime there's an update, the computer is never the same. There are often times that Windows will update, and something else partially breaks, or completely breaks. We are all very aware that you've paid a small fortune, well over $1k for you software, regardless, remote sessions are not guaranteed, nor are they SOP for all companies. Stating that you feel entitled to one, on a forum that isn't sponsored by VM, and supported by volunteers, won't expedite the process of your interaction with VM either. Users here are just putting out suggestions to help you narrow down that the underlying issue could be. If it's just these particular file, perhaps seeing if you can work with the in another software is possible - not for long term use, but for troubleshooting purposes. Clearly, you are not interested in using a different software, so are most people, however, the majority of us understand the importance or function of trying it in something else, in an effort to troubleshoot the issue. So if your other files work fine in VM, then it really doesn't hurt to take a closer look at the files that don't.

Figure out how much vinyl you'll be using, figure out how much that vinyl cost, figure out how much your time is worth and how long it'll take you. Add in some extra to cover application tape and wear and tear on your equipment, add all that up and you have your price

sure looks the same but betting uscutter orders many more containers of them at a time - better price

Ok so I took the leap and bought the Atlas today. Will report back when I get it for other folks who may be considering this press. Also, for those who might be curious, here's the Joto press that the Atlas looks identical to (other than the paint color): https://jotoimagingsupplies.com/joto-auto-release-clamshell-heat-press-15-x-15.html Apparently, these are also identical to an old version of a European press (sold in Europe, manufactured in China) called Secabo. It's wild how the heat press industry works! Seems to me that if they're not manufactured in the US, they're all basically made by the same few manufacturers in China and then branded with each US company's logos and color schemes. I'm hoping the USC Atlas is truly the same as the Joto, 'cause if it is, US Cutter is selling it for about $300 less than Joto. Score.

Sounds like your cutting arm is not moving. Watch the arm holding the blade/blade holder. Does it go up and down?

I agree, starting with the Graphtec FC8000 on up, You can do this. They have a channel on the cutter, and a 2nd position for the blade holder, that cuts over that channel, so no damage to cutting strip. These cutters also have 8 different conditions that can be set for cutting. You can check for used deals on Ebay, Craigslist, or Fbook Marketplace.

No. The one thing you want to avoid doing is damaging the white nylon 'cutting strip' by having the blade run into it (gouge it) by going through the backing paper of the vinyl. Your boss needs to rethink her goals.

I would convert to curves, then do a break apart and weld. It'll leave you with just the black shadow. If you still want to words, you'll need to duplicate them and move them out of the way before doing the break apart and weld. Also, you might want to do some node editing on the text, there are what look like some stray nodes causing sharp points in the S, C, and O

I found this online, if you can make it work in your software "It is not hard to learn this technique. It is the same as rounding corners with one small added step: you need to add a negative (-) before the number assigned to the radius. So, instead of a radius of 0.25, the radius will be -0.25. Doing this one small step will cause the corners to bump into the square rather than round out."

I and many people only use 60 degree all of the time. Cut slow, and make sure you have your blade depth set correctly. Do not use any instructions that have to do with using a credit card or post it notes. You set your blade depth to the vinyl that you are cutting. Make sure you have a sharp blade. Metal vinyl will dull blades fast. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.

pretty much most of the posts anymore,, are hit and runs. I wanted to see if some of our advice has worked or not, and people never come back. I had to disable messages a while back. People were just signing up, then just sending me messages for help everyday. Never posting on the forum. Nope, I wasn't going to do that.

I see you were able to figure it out but for future reference this is a very easy way to accomplish what you were asking and it can be done entirely in VM Cut.

Glitter will require more force (which is a higher number), if you've done a force trial and error on any regular HTV vinyl, or any regular PSV vinyl, then you would have discovered those results. There is not specific force number that we can give to you (for any kind of vinyl) - we don't know what brand of vinyl you're using, we don't know the age of your vinyl, we don't know the condition of cutting strip, we don't know the age and condition of the blade you're using, we don't know what angle blade you're using, we don't know the design that you're cutting - whether is it's just basic shapes or big text, or if it's something intricate, etc. Yes, all of these things are factors. I know you don't want to waste your time and vinyl, however, we've guided you as best as possible and from this point forth, it really and truly is dependent on your specific machine (because same model machines can require different levels of force, but that's just how sensitive some of the parameters), so you really need to trial and error this on your own to get it dialed in. ... and there are times where it's just better to go over the design twice. Meaning, if you're not getting it to cut through just the first time around, it might require two passes. The trick to that is just get your design and do a copy and paste, but leave the second copy sitting on the original. If that's something that turns out to working better for you, then write that down. I have a running Google sheet that has my settings for which vinyl, using specific speeds, specific force, etc. It's not set in stone, because as the vinyl I have ages, those settings have to change. I don't go through inventory like a lot of other members here do, so it can get tricky, but at least it's a jumping off point and I tweak from there and update the numbers.

Here you go Slice. The wife ironed them on today and we are both pretty happy with the results. After this pic I attached the carpet to the backer board with some contact cement and it is airing out the rest of today and overnight before I mount it in the truck. Maybe it was beginners luck, but it was a pretty neat little project. Unfortunately, wifey is now stoked about doing some T shirts for her nephews! Oh well, they will be cheap birthday presents this year, there is that

Just got off the phone with them and they are sending a new MB out. Thank you for your help!

I've not been doing a whole lot of vinyl as other demands have taken my time and energies. But, I did do this custom mirror for our son and his girlfriend. They moved to Ohio and bought a house a couple years ago. On one of our trips we toured the Ohio State Supreme Court building. A really fine piece of 1930's art deco architecture and a lot to see inside, and it is open to visit! On the top floor is the law library. On the ends of the shelving were the index signs for that row. I really liked the "Ohio" that was used in the sign. So I asked if I could do a mirror for the young one's in a sort of art deco style for them. They are trying to keep to a mid-century modern style in the house so they jumped on it. My results: Late edit. Should have added that it is reverse etched and painted. As it turned out, it really didn't need the reversing!

If you are trying to get text at a specific size I make a rectangle the height I want my text and then set my text on too of that the figure out how many points it needs to be. Fonts can be very different depending on how they were made and 100pt in one font does not end up the same in others.

Magnet material is white. Just apply colored vinyl to it.

Well, its just as everyone says. If you can even get a response from any of these companies they want proof that you have a substantial online presence. By substantial I mean your revenue is 7 figures or above and have monthly traffic numbers in the 5 digit range. They are looking to partner with companies rather than provide opportunities for a smaller company to boost sales. Just as Wildgoose stated, you might be able to form an agreement with a company who is licensed already...the problem with that is I feel I make a better product and would outsell the products they make so it isnt likely they'd agree to something like this unless you sold completely different products. I have learned that dealerships have licensing that allows them to use the specific manufacturer's logos on products and advertising. I'd need to look in to that more but that might be a potential loophole to this whole thing. I have relationship with local car dealers already so I might start talking to them about what their licensing allows.