haumana

I donʻt know if itʻs possible to bring the blade holder down any further for OP. It already looks like the blade holder might be too long, and thatʻs why it cannot be seated properly. If the blade holder is already touching the vinyl while the carriage is in the up position, then itʻs not in the bracket properly, or it's the wrong blade holder because itʻs too long. Whatever the case may be, dragging the holder and blade like that can cause unnecessary drag on the motor not to mention possibly damaging the cutting strip.

I doubt youʻll get a response from the OP (Josh623), as his post was done in 2014.

Installing it does not necessarily means that itʻs compatible. Have you checked with SCALP to see if your operating system, SCALP version, and CorelDraw version are compatible? What kind of error are you getting, can you post a screen shot of the error?

If you have CorelDraw to node edit, then thatʻs what you shouldʻve used. Sue is right, because the word WIFE isnʻt touching anything else besides the two lines, itʻs an easy edit. What kind o difficulties are you running into when you tried this with Corel?

If the blade holder is dragging when itʻs not supposed to it, then you have it seated too low. But this is the first machine Iʻve seen that there no means to securely seat it between grooves, or flush from one of the ring collars on it. Are you sure that you have the correct blade holder? If this machine is new, I suggest you contact the company your purchased it from and ask them why itʻs doing what itʻs doing.

Is there a way for you to verify with SCALP that the plug-in actually works for your version of CorelDraw?

I do like the case, although I can see that you were wanting the pink background to transfer too. Hopefully someone with a lot more sublimation experience will chime in with some suggestions. The photo definitely helps.

Can you post a pic?

SC is a great machine to start off with, and you can get a lot done with that machine. The 60* and 45* blade angles are pretty much the ʻgo to,ʻ angles. Depending what kind of material youʻre cutting, and/or how intricate or small of details (or text). I started off with a 45* blade that shipped with my LP, and within a few months I upgraded the blade to a 60* Clean Cut. To this day, the first 60* Clean Cut blade is still whatʻs in the machine now. Still cuts really, really well, and I havenʻt need to change it yet. You can buy them from USC or directly from Clean Cut Blade. Typically as the machine models and brands go up in price, youʻll get little improvements in the machine, stepper motor vs. servo motor, accuracy when tracking the vinyl over longer runs, etc. I donʻt see any reason why you wouldnʻt be happy with an SC, itʻs solid machine, provided that it isnʻt abused (too much blade sticking out, too much force, etc.). The forum members here will be more than happy to help walk you through any concern you may have. Thereʻs usually someone here that will have some experience with one thing or another, so it makes it a lot easier to learn from our mistakes Whatever machine you decide on, I just encourage you to search for Mz Skeeterʻs instructions for setting the proper blade depth, because thatʻs basically the starting point for cutter setup, and everything else will be configured around that. Itʻs not difficult, just most people donʻt take the time to do it properly.

You can absolutely use any of the cutters to create retail ready decals. I just don't recommend that you use your machine to contour cut the decals after they have been app taped up. There is nothing wrong with just cutting the overall finished product in a square/rectangle, in fact, most decals are sold that way. Are you printing then cutting? or just cutting a design straight out of vinyl? Hereʻs the typical process for a vinyl decal - cut it on your machine (without a carrier sheet) remove it from the machine for weeding weed it apply application tape cut into individual pieces Now, if youʻre doing a 2-color vinyl decal, then thereʻs a few extra steps involved.

nice catch. instead of a single vector line, it created vector line for the inside and the outside of the line.

Welcome! Decisions, decisions. This is the best kind of stress to have ... what to buy?? Definitely stick with the SC or better, and if you have the room for the footprint, definitely get the stand. I would also recommend getting Clean Cut Blades - they are a little pricier than the standard/stock stuff, but they will last longer. If your budget can stretch it, and you were considering the 28" SC already, I would consider the 28" Titan. It's a better machine with a 2-year warranty. If you plan on doing contour cutting, then the SC will be a little bit easier than the Titan. In all honesty, I purchased a Laserpoint (I) probably 12+ years ago, because it could contour cut .... the machine is still going strong, with very minimal maintenance. I have never contoured cut - ever. Probably because I don't print and cut. Working with vinyl is probably easier than cutting stencils, since it's pretty much, "feed and go" kind of thing -unless it's HTV, then you might need a carrier sheet for that. Do not buy the starter pack, because chances are, you already have whatever tools you will need - weed tool, squeegee, Trust me when I tell you that once your friends and family find out that you can make "die cut decals," (which technically they aren't), they will be calling you for all kinds of stuff. People put decals on cars, banner vinyl, hydroflasks, back of tablets and smartphones, laptops, cups, party favors, table tent cards, folders, etc .... The list goes on and on. I've made 'stencils' for family who use them to do chemical etching on pyrex bakeware, etc.

If the stencils can be a one-time use, then a vinyl cutter will work. Just use the vinyl as your stencil, toss when done. Vinyl isn't expensive.

if you can, try a new 60* Clean Cut Blade ... or a any Clean Cut Blade, preferably 60* though, then the second choice would be 45*.

I kind of get what you're saying, but typically the decals are put on the outside of the vehicle, so the tinted plexi wouldn't come into play, not to mention that the backing of your decals is not clear, so if you used a tinted plexi, then decal, then topped it off with clear plexi, it still doesn't give the full effect.

Thank you for taking the time to register for this forum. I would encourage you to just make one post and put it in the appropriate bulletin board, posting the same request in multiple bulletin boards will not get you a bigger audience, nor will it expedite a potential response - in reality, it would most likely slow any kind of response. Yes, you can create a contoured design. It would help if you let us know what version of VM you are using - Cut, LTR, PRO, DSR, or XPT. If you are using PSV vinyl, you do not need to use a cutting mat, unless your intent it is not only contour cut, but to contour cut all the way through - which isn't really recommended. If you are using HTV vinyl, then you might want to use a carrier sheet, as there are times that the HTV will not properly grip the slick backing of the HTV in a consistent manner, causing slippage. Loading a carrier sheet is not any different than loading vinyl without one. You still need to properly set your point of origin, and you need to ensure it's aligned to minimize drift. There is inherent slack using a carrier sheet, so you don't need to worry about that, unless it's going to end up hitting something as the machine moves it back and forth through the cut window. It is entirely up to you whether you weed your design on or off the mat, it would be a personal preference, but if it's PSV, then there really is no need to use a carrier mat int he first place. By your last bullet point, I'm assuming that you want to contour cut a single color of PSV after it's been weeded and taped. If that's the case, you can give it a try just be aware of a few things - a) you would need to have registration marks for the cutter to line everything up properly, b) your wide swath of app tape might adhere more than you'd like to your carrier sheet that already has some tack to it, c) your cutter wasn't necessarily designed to cut that level of thickness, therefore the amount of drag on the blade might be detrimental to your machine. Most of us not bother to contour cut PSV, unless the design happens to be a square/rectangle, or triangle, or something else happens to be convenient as I'm using my straight edge and rotary cutter. Contour cutting is typically used when printing, then cutting. I'm sure someone else will also have a suggestion or recommendation as well.

You can also just a cheap piece of plexiglass

What are you trying to do with Corel?

found this. seems to be able to explain it in a way that I understand it a little better https://www.cnbc.com/2021/03/26/its-going-to-get-harder-to-avoid-telling-the-irs-about-income-from-online-sales.html?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=news_tab&utm_content=algorithm&fbclid=IwAR26m075Txta5gk3Rmjyo0bJKywwoaP1sDrU7QRNWZ1jt2DU1w9NYo58P_A

what have you tried in terms of troubleshooting? has your operating system updated? what version of operating system are you using have you tried changing cables? have you looked in Device Manager to make sure you cutter is still listed? more information will help us guide you in towards some troubleshooting suggestions. you also might want to take the few minutes to register for a free account, then your posts won't need to wait for a moderator to approve them.

Windows can update all sorts of things, what one would never think affects something else ... but it does. It's Windows, that's what it does time to time. Anytime there's an update, the computer is never the same. There are often times that Windows will update, and something else partially breaks, or completely breaks. We are all very aware that you've paid a small fortune, well over $1k for you software, regardless, remote sessions are not guaranteed, nor are they SOP for all companies. Stating that you feel entitled to one, on a forum that isn't sponsored by VM, and supported by volunteers, won't expedite the process of your interaction with VM either. Users here are just putting out suggestions to help you narrow down that the underlying issue could be. If it's just these particular file, perhaps seeing if you can work with the in another software is possible - not for long term use, but for troubleshooting purposes. Clearly, you are not interested in using a different software, so are most people, however, the majority of us understand the importance or function of trying it in something else, in an effort to troubleshoot the issue. So if your other files work fine in VM, then it really doesn't hurt to take a closer look at the files that don't.

Hmm... good to know. Thank goodness I have a cpa, and they don't ask too many questions

I think it might just be me ... so anything under $600 doesn't need to be reported. I thought that was the standing rule already?

Does the blade carriage move up and down, or it just always down, and dragging across everything?

So there was a trick previously, and it might still work, but I can't be sure. Since you already have the font installed, but it's not appearing, let's give this a shot... Close SBE Open up Fonts directory > Open the font you installed (double click) Close the font Open SBE, and see if it appears. If that still doesn't work for you, and you still want to reinstall SBE, PM me your email address, and I will see if I can dropbox it for you.