haumana

Start with SignBlazer, it's free, you should be able to search for the link within the forum. Make sure you suspend your anti-virus, since the original developer has long passed away a member found the means to alter the code that it's not longer in trial version, but anti-virus programs will prevent the installation. make sure you download drivers for the machine.

Nice thread find! Same here, (2) 40w CO2, a small CNC (still unused), and will probably be picking up a Fiber soon (fingers crossed).

If that font/layout isn't part of their branding, then you could adjust the text so it will break in between the window frame, then you won't have to deal with making additional cuts, or stretching (if that's what you're considering). In a perfect world, you could keep the kerning (spacing between letters), but in reality - when I look at signage that has to span several window panes, I do not have an expectation that the kerning will be preserved because of the any framing that will run through the text - regarding if you choose to put vinyl on it, or space around it. Main thing is that people get the gist of what's being advertised.

I use a 1:1 for alcohol & water - 70% of alcohol really doesn't make a difference to me, so whatever you have on hand will work, or if you're trying to save the 91% for COVID purposes, the 70% will work just fine. Then depending on the how much you're make a drop or two of dish soap - like literally a drop. I typically make mine in a 32oz spray bottle, but only do something like: 12oz water, distill if I have it - it's not a requirement, but sometimes I can get some calcium sediment from my municipal tap 12oz alcohol 1 or 2 drops of dish soap - if I'm using Dawn, then 1, if I'm using anything else, then 2. HTH.

Since you removed the rubber part of the pinch roller, can't you move it to the right, to have both pinch roller on the right side, as suggested by Mz Skeeter? If you don't think there's enough room there, which actually looks like there should barely be enough room, then at the very least, move it towards one side or another, so that it will cause the least amount of potential contact when you feed your printed material.

One of the local auction houses here has an Insta 215. They said that it still works. Amazon also has an multi-purpose one that can also do plates, mugs, and caps for $240 Is the Insta worth a bid? If so, how much? Is there a tipping point where the Insta isn't worth it? From what I can tell, the Insta looks like a workhorse, but also a one-trick pony.

If it's a small run, then I would use the vinyl as a stencil and spay with fusion paint.

Can you run a test cut from the machine control panel?

Bienvenido al foro. Le sugiero que se ponga en contacto directamente con el servicio de atención al cliente de VM, ya que este es estrictamente un foro de usuarios que es aportado por voluntarios. Si te registras como usuario, tu publicación subirá automáticamente y no se demorará esperando a que un moderador la apruebe. [Welcome to the forum. I would suggest you contact VM customer support directly, as this is strictly a user's forum that is contributed by volunteers. If you register as a user, your post will go up automatically and will not be delayed waiting for a moderator to approve it.]

Hmm. I have crafty friends and family who do it all the time. Here's a YT vid, that might help.

I would suggest getting a heat press and using HTV.

Try downloading SignBlazer Elements and testing your machine with that cutting software.

Regardless of the age of the post, helpful contributions are always appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to post your suggestion.

Things you can try and/or inspect: Try changing the blade out again, maybe you have some kind of defect with the blade. Try using a 60* blade. If you're cutting really small text, a 60* will probably do better for you. Try slowing down the speed of your cuts. Check the cutting strip, perhaps it needs replacement. Mine require replacement every one in a while. Check the blade carriage. Make sure that nothing on the carriage is cracked, and is able to hold on to the blade holder securely. I have found hairline cracks in the carriage that would allow movements and cause issues in the cuts. You'll just have to go back to basics and start ruling things out one at a time.

Hola. Posibles cosas para comprobar ... Asegúrese de que los rodillos de arrastre giren libremente y que ninguna de las ruedas esté atascada. Asegúrese de que los rodillos de arrastre estén colocados por encima de los rodillos de presión. Al cortar de un rollo de vinilo, asegúrese de tirar de la holgura lo suficiente para que el cortador no intente tirar del vinilo directamente del rollo (bajo tensión). La profundidad de la hoja también puede afectar esto, así que asegúrese de configurarla correctamente. Háganos saber qué cortadora está utilizando y publique un video si es necesario, para que podamos ver qué está pasando. [Hello. Possible things to check ... Make sure the pinch rollers spin freely and that none of the wheels are stuck. Make sure that the pinch rollers are positioned above the grit rollers. When cutting from a vinyl roll, make sure that you pull enough slack so that the cutter is not trying to pull the vinyl directly from the roll (under tension). Blade depth can also affect this, so make sure you have it set properly. Let us know what cutter you are using, and post a video if you need to, so we can see what's going on.]

I'm not a cricut'er, but have checked with other Mac Cricut users, and the recommendation is to probably uninstall and reinstall Design Space.

Let me know if I have this correct - Cut, peel off backing (no weeding of design), apply to wood, weed out the stencil, paint, remove rest of vinyl. Why use an application tape ... if you weed your design before application, then you will absolutely need to use a transfer tape, because that would be a whole lot of manual labor. If you weed prior application and use a transfer tape, you can see your design (whether it's in the negative or positive), and how to align it to your object. I cannot speak for a other users, however, when i cut, if I tried to peel the vinyl without weeding, it will weed the exterior by default because I have the blade cutting through the vinyl, as well as the adhesive, so it will not stay in one piece with a design or text cut into it. If what you're doing works best for you, and gets you the fastest production, then stick with it. There isn't a hard and fast rule about most of this stuff (with exception to never using clear transfer tape when doing a wet application). Even if you stick with your method, I would still suggest you have some application tape on hand for the "just in case" situations

your cut pressure should be determined by the quality of the depth of the cut on your vinyl - you just want it to cut through the vinyl and the adhesive. if you've properly set the depth of your blade, then the backing of the vinyl will have a slight scoring, but not actually an actual slice into the backing. If there are slices, then either the blade is too far out, and/or the cut pressure is too much. different vinyl's sometimes take different pressure, even if it's the same vinyl manufacturer and type (ie. Oracal 651, I have to dial up the pressure a little cut white, and dial down the pressure to cut black, etc.); the type of vinyl (cast, calendared, HTV, reflective, etc.); age of vinyl (if you don't regularly have a turnover of colors); and blade manufacturer. I'm sure I'm missing other things that can possibly require changes to pressure. speed of cuts sometimes require adjusting depending on size of the design, the intricacy or detail of the design, size of the text, and/or type of blade you're using (60* vs. 45*) when you find a sweet spot for your cutter - speed, pressure, blade type, etc. write it down. I have a mirror very close to my machine that I use like a dry erase board - I have written the settings for cutting 651, 631, 751, different brands of reflective, color exceptions, etc.

Is there a question, or is your question what design options there are for your Titan? You can pretty much design in anything that will either draw in vector, or can vectorize. Cutters will only cut vector images. What you design in could be a different software than what you cut with (CorelDraw, Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, etc.), and then there are design and cutting programs (Flexi, VinylMaster, SignCut, SignBlazer, etc.) Every user here uses whatever they are most comfortable and proficient at.

That's super weird. I know that you did the design in Inkscape, have you tried flattening the file, then tracing it? (hopefully not losing any detail)

make sure the cutter is not pulling directly (under tension) from the roll of vinyl. always leave enough slack that it can do the entire length. make sure that you get your outside pinch roller as even towards the edges as possible (i.e. about 1" - 1.5" from edge of your vinyl). not sure what speed you're cutting at, but you might want to slow it down. just realize that the budget cutters will have some drift, but doing some of the above suggestion will help to minimize it.

Here's is your answer.

Thank you for your contribution. It's members like yourself that make this forum a great one! Members helping members.

Does this machine have specific locations the rollers need to be in, or does the grit roller pretty much run the length? I wish my Graphtec let me put the roller where I see fit, like my LaserPoint.