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I got, that he has had knee surgery before this, and the pain peaked a day or 2 after that surgery. So he is expecting the pain to really peak today or tomorrow for this shoulder surgery.

he found even more when working on it and went over 2 hrs on the 30-45 min surgery - also ended up opening it up some to work on it - not enjoying it at all right now - but am sure in the end will be worth it. expecting today and tomorrow for the pain to peak if me knee was any indication. thanks to all fir the thoughts

f0ound a soap dish under my cabinet and turned it into a jewelry holder. I don't need one but it is cute. Also some scarves I am monogramming and selling. Big seller at Christmas.

Press-n-seal to keep the wound dry in the shower!

I bet your not having fun. I know i would not be after a surgery like that. My father has had about 10 surgeries ranging from his back to his knees. He has never been put under for a surgery. Just take it easy and let yourself heal up..

Wow i wish you well and hope everything turns out good.. Them dang surgeries can put someone down.

I had SCAL Pro I think you have SCALP too the three is in there but everyone on the forum just calls it SCALP. Anyway I never tried to export directly from illustrator to SCALP and I don't know if there is a plugin to allow that or not. I gave my copy away with my old cutter so I am rusty with the details but as of the last time I was using SCALP it was able to cut from native CS5 version of Illustrator. Not sure at this point with upgrades and all and I don't know what version of Illustrator you are running. About every other cutting software needs to be down-saved to version 8. I THINK that SCALP will cut from version 8 but it was a little glitchy with the cut by color when I had it. I often just designed different color files if I was having trouble. So I just save my files to in my current case Illustrator 8 (When I was using SCALP I just saved it then opened it in SCALP) and then open it in my cutting program. I have a plugin to export directly to a cutting program that came with my new cutter called MacSign but I don't really like the program so I use a completely different one. I think since you own SCALP with your cutter I would stick with it and worry about all the other new things you are going to find in your new adventure. Illustrator is a beeaatch to learn but WELL worth the trouble. It is the standard that all the other program compare themselves with. I'm not knocking the other programs out there because you can do proficient work with several of them unfortunately SCALP is very lacking in the design side of vinyl work. Decent for cutting although they are still lacking a few things they were supposed to get figured out last summer. The biggest problem most beginners have with AI is that its similar to having a high end professional camera that prefers someone who knows all the ins and outs and is comfy with all the settings. Once you get a handle on it you will find that you really mainly work with a basic set of tools. If you have problems post up your questions and I'll try to pass a little info your way. What version are you running BTW? I am running CS5 which is a couple versions older than the new Cloud based version CC. You may have to interpret my help if you have a newer or older version. The functions are basically the same but sometimes they hide them in different spots and occasionally rename them or change a default setup value here and there. When you are playing around with the program go into the "View" menu and select Outline mode which will let you just see outlines. This is what your cutter is seeing. So when you get done with a design it's a good idea to use this mode to check it out before you send it to your cutter. You will notice that any text that has not been outlines will show up as colored and not outlines and raster images will basically be a blank box. Another few tips for your set-up tip is in illustrator>preferences make sure the following things are set: In General make sure "Scale Strokes and Effects" is on, in Selection of Anchor display be sure that "Object Selection by Path Only" is selected, that is a big deal, also select "Highlight anchors on mouse over" some of these may be a default on already. In Appearance of black set on screen display to display all blacks accurately. There are probably a few others in the preferences panel but those are the main ones. The last big tip I would highly recommend is back in the view menu there will be an option to either show or hide bounding box. Hide it and enjoy. As far as I have seen no other program lets you get completely rid of the bounding box. I did a 30 day trial of the newest Corel and it would get close but still had these annoying dots around the objects. The bounding box has a purpose and if you want to do a quick rotate or stretch or all that jive just turn it back on real quick, Quick keys "Shift>Command>B" or Shift>Control>B on a PC I think, the rest of the time it's just in the way. With the setting set this way you can select the line you want to work on (remember the select objects by path only setting) and if you click in the open somewhere it doesn't automatically select some object you really didn't want to select. By not having the bounding box on you can see clearly the line you are working on because the line highlights and depending on if you use the black arrow to select the whole object or the white to just select a node or line segment you can manipulate them as you see fit. Good luck and have fun with it.

I'm lucky to get $12 for regular t's around here

Sorry to hear about the additional "findings" on your shoulder... Know exactly how that is. I'm 2 months out of mine (labrum, bicep & rotator cuff)... Good luck in PT!

This is where I need to learn to be a business man............. There's NO WAY in hell I'd pay $25 for a shirt and I don't understand how anyone would BUT There are people that will and I need to realize that.

+1

Ok so a while back, i hit up the local dollar store, not a franchise store, but a local based store. Anyway, i bought a few glasses for sandblasting and a few stocking caps, really cheap too. Then a friend who i ride motorcycle with, said she works there and knows the owner very well. She told me the owner buys stuff in bulk and normally when she buys stuff she fills up a semi load with tons of stuff to fill her shelves and stock room. Anyway she told me to stop back in and talk to her about getting more items like the glasses and wine glasses and stocking caps, etc. I stopped in and the owner wasn't there. I left my business card with the clerk, and explained that i wasnt wanting to sell her anything, but i am looking to buy stuff. The next day i got a call from the owner. I talked to her and told her about the sandblasting glass projects and the reason for the stocking caps. She told me she would order some of these certain mugs in for me, and give me $15% off. On a glass mug thats $1.25, thats still a good deal. Anyway she called me yesterday and said they arrived. I stopped in today. I got a big box of 12 large mugs, a box of 6 small mugs, and 1 dozen stocking caps, all to begin with, she said she has alot more. Anyway she said she noticed on my card that i also do websites...and she is interested in a website, as well as some vinyl graphics for her large store front windows, her vehicle, and her 18foot enclosed trailer... So it kinda shows you, how one thing, can lead to other great things!!

My stick people are in a dusty binder because in the last couple years I can count on 1 hand the # of people who asked for them. They tend to buy the preprinted stuff at Walmart and the auto parts stores when it comes to those and I rarely see any cut ones on cars anymore. I went from cut anything to make a buck to gradually weeding out copyright stuff and then weeding out the stuff that just doesn't sell for me and you may have tons of luck with stuff that doesn't sell here and vice versa. The only way to know what'll sell for you is to try a variety of different content and see which moves better in your area and stick with that product. At some point we went from selling 100% stock from our books to maybe 10% stock and 70% slightly customized and the rest being full custom but I can tell you from my experience if you go to a bigger flea market you need to be fast, be able to work under the eye of customers, be able to troubleshoot on the spot (things never work like they did at home) and above all remember to smile and thank everybody including the ones that don't buy because if you act rude to somebody it may cost sales from everybody walking by at that time. And don't forgot business cards, hand them to everybody you can and give them at least 2 so they can give 1 to their buddy when they see them.

This is my first shirt ordered by a customer. It had to be 2 colors also. The design was simple and as you can tell it looks simple. The wings are white and the rest is pink. Hard to really see in the picture. This was ordered by a lady for her daughter's one year birthday..I think it turned out pretty damn good for a first time layer of a shirt...

Hello John T, Welcome to the mysteries of vinyl cutting. For a short question this will be a long reply. I believe that the answer should go beyond the actual question to answer what has not been asked by you because you are new. Actually it is all so simple that when you have grasped the basics you will laugh at yourself. Ok, first before I answer your question I will explain some of the basic terms used in sign making and attempt to translate your terms. It is OK to be wrong, that is why we are here to help so please do not feel embarrassed by any lack of knowledge. We all have to start somewhere. Actually as a new comer I feel that you have done well! So here goes with my translation. If I have it wrong just reply and I will try again. When you say PRINT ? I think you mean CUT. When you say PIN ? I think you mean BLADE. So you are actually asking about cutting with a blade not printing with a pin? When you start it is a good idea to start cutting simple objects and work up to complex stuff. Cut a square or rectangle with a weeding border. Weeding border? This when ticked cuts a rectangle around your work. Why? This makes is easier to weed your work. Weed? This refers to the removal of vinyl to be discarded after you have cut your job. Then move onto some text. I suggest that you cut the word TEST about 5 or 6 inches high (100 to 120mm) in a block letter such as Helvetica (H003 Helvetica Font). I have never used inches in my life so find it a bit weird trying to put stuff into inches instead of millimetres. Try all the weeding options (one at a time of course) and see what they actually do. Then you will know how to use these options to your advantage. Now I will talk about your problem of work not being cut. SignBlazer and other vinyl cutting graphics software works quite differently to Corel or Illustrator. There are some simple basic things to understand. 1. Everything must be one layer with NO OVERLAPS. 2. Work to cut MUST be inside the workspace (purple border on the screen). 3. We suggest until you know SignBlazer inside out then you always make the height of your workspace the width of the vinyl in the cutter. 4. Oh, I should explain that unlike Corel or Illustrator it is conventional for the workspace to be always in landscape mode never portrait mode. 5. Why? So that an entire job can be put into the cutting areas (workspace area). 6. Lastly you always should go into cutter setup and make the width of the vinyl what you have in your cutter. Should you follow these simple rules then you will find it so easy to do work. Lastly why should all the work be inside the workspace area to cut? Outside the workspace area is a ?virtual clipboard?. This is where you put graphics that you DO NOT WANT TO CUT. So I think that your problem may be that you have to a. Have the right workspace (try 24 inches by 48 inches - landscape) b. Make sure everything you want to cut is inside the workspace area. c. Make sure that the width of vinyl in cutter setup is the same as the vinyl in your cutter. d. Start off with simple graphics and cut increasingly more complex work as you build your confidence. Oh, another hint I should put in for ALL newbies. This is about blades. 1. Only ever have the smallest potion of blade extruding from the holder. Less than the thickness of the vinyl. Why? Better cutting and blades last longer and even more important this allows the blade to turn in its holder more easily. 2. When using new vinyl always start of with the LOWEST pressure to find the right pressure. Never go from high to low. Always low to high. Why? Blades last longer and your cutting strip should never have to be replaced, EVER! Finally this is what this forum is for, to help users. So please never feel embarrassed about asking what may only be simple questions. This is why we are here to answer questions. We all have to learn and the fastest way to ask questions. We do not think less of you ? actually we admire you for asking. Remember others are reading this and they are likely to be embarrassed to ask the question you ask but will read it. So when you ask you are helping not just yourself but many, many others. So ask away. Oh, when you become experienced most of or all the rules above can be broken (except overlaps and the bit about blades) when you know how to do it the way you want to do it. However to start make it simple for yourself and follow a few simple rules. Remember the KISS principle. Regards Jerry from SignBlazer.

i just thought of that about 15 min after i posted it, but i still cant find the right font?? if any one has a link to it, that would work too! i cant find one that has the "L" as an upside down "V", and both the actual "O" and the omega.