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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/27/2014 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    i havent used it yet...still in the process of putting it together...takes a bit longer to assemble when putting silicone all over to help seal it. i have the main part done and on legs, just gotta do the bottom funnel area and install the light and elec stuff... its too damn cold right now to do any work in my garage, even with a nipco heater, lol
  2. 1 point
    Could you use a pen and draw it on paper?
  3. 1 point
    I have 10 cactus wraps so I can rotate 5 in and 5 in process in staceys oven - works great - thought about the convection oven but why take up the extra room when the maytag gemini works great and is already here. on the rest of the stuff even a clam will do them - some of them just use a felt pad that coastal, conde etc sells for deep things like the tiles and light covers - you will need one anyways. I think mine is 1/2 inch thick and still use it on the swing away for even pressure and heat
  4. 1 point
    I use paper for myself. I use a mix of med tack and high depending on the application. If it's something that has small letters that I think are going to give me trouble during application then I definitely use the med tack. It comes off easier with less lift on the small pieces. Sometimes you get a letter or dot that doesn't want to come off the liner being the only issue but I usually just leave it on the liner and go back for it with a small square of the same app paper and stick it where it belongs. I sell occasional stuff to local craft ladies and they like the clear and I use medium tack for that as well. Best luck for this has been the R-Tape Clear choice AT60 I have found that the clear has way more tendency to tunnel and is much more susceptible to temperature changes and stretches too much for multi layer. Not to mention you are stuck without the option of a wet install or a wet removal. Stay away from the Greenstar layflat clear. It sucks IMO. The paper stuff from Greenstar is fine but I only use it up to about 12" width. The edges are a little weird and it can go on bad if you aren't careful. I prefer the R-Tape Apli-tape or the conform versions. They cost a little more but are worth it on the big wide stuff.
  5. 1 point
    Hello and Welcome, great project you got there. I just had some decals printed for a Millermatic 200 welder. I just duplicated them in Flexi sign, converted them into a pdf file and took them to the local graphics printer. they printed, contour cut and laminated them for $12.50 each. they are 20" x 2 1/4". I cut the white decals.
  6. 1 point
    Same here, I use the same settings as regular vinyl, on HDTV it can LOOK like it didn't cut but usually is cut. Now if you are cutting the shiny side . . . Wrong side
  7. 1 point
    hard to beat the price and function of a few cactus wraps in my book - and a whole lot cheaper
  8. 1 point
    I run my settings on my sc cutter the same as regular vinyl ans siser easy weed heat transfer.. I think on that glitter you will need up the pressure
  9. 1 point
    Why so tight to the edges? Leave more margin, the vinyl is cheap, don't worry about feeding it out an inch or two.
  10. 1 point
    I just copy and paste it. I have it saved. Don't take any time.
  11. 1 point
    Oh how I miss the old days. This new stuff just ain't right.
  12. 1 point
    Now if a prisoner is in the back seat leaning forward . . . The brake check becomes a screen test!
  13. 1 point
    I called that number. It is a wh*re house in Texas. Kidding aside. Looks good.
  14. 1 point
    Even when you see them coming up from a mile back? In traffic I agree, but just to be a lane hog is not right.
  15. 1 point
    I usally brake check them when they ride my ass......no matter what lane I am in.
  16. 1 point
    Graphtec hands down. Best cutter I have ever used and I have had Rolands and the cheap knock offs. I own 2 Graphtecs. mark-s
  17. 1 point
    Have not had either one, but the more I read and all I am leaning for a Graphtec when I have the $ to drop on one.
  18. 1 point
    I did this one years ago. Little worn in this pic, but it got a lot of attention when it was newer. Ok, it's a lot worn.
  19. 1 point
    and in the future, this is how you set the blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing.
  20. 1 point
    Whoops! I guess I got sucked into a time warp! I hate it when that happens! LMAO!
  21. 1 point
    120lb lab - same way but I don't think anyone would get close enough with a milk bone he is so convincing
  22. 1 point
    Slice, I'm retired and just sold my 1941 Studebacker Champion street rod. I was looking for another project and stumbled across a Yamaha ATV made in 1989. What caught my eye is that it had a PTO on the rear of it. After much research I found out Yamaha only made it one year. There has never been another ATV made with a PTO to this day. I drove from Nashville to Memphis and bought it with a matching FM-48 finish mower which trails behind it. The mower is what I'm duplicating the decals on. Let's see if I can post a few pictures of it. Mind you, the Terrapro did not look this good when I bought it. It underwent a four month restoration. If you where to Google Yamaha Terrapro you will see numerous pictures. I also have the FM-48 finish mower, RM-42 brush cutter and a very rare TC-38 garden tiller. I recently purchased a second Terrapro that came with the brush cutter and tiller. My second YFP350U and attachments have not been restored. I will be reproducing the decals on my MH-365 for all the implements. -robert
  23. 1 point
    Tried cutting film with a cutter a long time ago. Had some problems doing it and have never tried it again. I have just always cut by hand. I have always got my film directly from the mfg. it definitely takes practice and lots of patience.
  24. 1 point
    I believe you just don't know what you're doing. No amount of help could help you. The MH requires more setup than other cutters, but you must be capable. I guess the rest of us are.........
  25. 1 point
    The whole opening post runs contrary to my experiences with the MH ---- I got the MH series cutter for christmas and it has been nothing but a disappointment ever since... --- My retail sign store was opened Sept. 2011 with the MH as my primary cutter. I've since generated hundreds of computer-cut-lettered signs using the MH 34" and it never caused me any grief. I am now in the process of looking for a new vinyl supplier as well....I just don't see any point in giving my business to US Cutter when they can't even produce an appropriate cutting machine... --- USCutter provides a value-priced MH machine for under $300 and it does what it does, without frills, without any claim of it being equivalent to cutters costing over $1000. The company has no reason to be apologetic for offering those machines. In fact, they should be proud of helping all the people they have so far with budget equipment that works pretty damn well. It should be able to cut 48 inches wide by 6 feet long but it can not do it!!! --- Not true. I have cut lettering for signs and banners with runs of over 20' (the machine's grounded and I place dryer sheets inside my rolls of vinyl to prevent static build-up). My MH is 34" wide (handles 30" vinyl rolls) and it tracks fine, while cutting from A to Z. --- I run this MH from a Dell laptop with USB, and it has never let me down.