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Found 357 results

  1. I have cut Hartco 425 with my Graphtec, but it is a little thinner material, i just cut it with 2 passes
  2. haumana

    Glow in the dark self-adhesive printable vinyl?

    I think you got the right stuff Scott. I actually bought a sheet from my local vinyl/sign warehouse here. I wish I bought more because they stopped carrying it. I snipped some off and trying to cut it, it was wicked thick and required more than a few passes, which the LP wasn't too happy with (especially isn't is stepper and doesn't track super accurate for fine cuts). Dumb question - can that kind of stuff be run through any vinyl printer? or does the printer really only work on specific media?
  3. Ok, this was a really weird problem yesterday that I mentioned in another thread, but wanted to open this topic and see if anyone had an idea. Vinyl Master Pro on Win10 and Laser Point II. So I'm cutting a sign yesterday out of reflective and don't want to waste the expensive material so I fill the rest of the width with some clipart piece. There will be 4 different colors of vinyl used for the two jobs so I use "Send To Cutfile". In VM a "cutfile" is essentially a new image with a layer/page for each color of vinyl. This allows you to run a bunch of different images as one job for each color. I've used it a ton of times with no problem...until yesterday. The first issue is that within a cutfile there is a command, "cut this page." The command works fine, but doesn't give you access to the "Send To Cutter" screen, so you can't do multiple passes. I've got to run two passes to insure the reflective cuts all the way. Since "Cut This Page" won't do multiple passes you have to ignore that included feature and use the "Send To Cutter" at the top of the page. I'm wondering if this is causing part of the problem. The big issue happened when I started cutting. Everything is running along fine, doing two passes, until I get to the registration marks I'd added to the clipart. It cut each registration mark 8 times (or 4 times with 2 passes each, maybe)! Cut anything 8 times and you're going to have trouble. The registration marks lifted from the page and stuck to the blade holder to be drug around the image. The blade finally cut through the backing paper in places. - VM registration marks are a 5 piece image: 4 triangles and an octagon center. But it cut them out as two opposing triangles and then the remaining two and the octagon were one piece. Very weird. - VM states that registration marks are created once, but in a special color, rather than once per color/layer. Then when sent to the cutter, that special color is cut by default. That way you can create your own registration marks. - It did this on all three colors that had the clipart. - I verified, twice, that there were no copies of the mark hiding behind the other. - The clipart cut fine by itself, only cutting the registration marks once. I then created a new cutfile with just the clipart and it was fine. I added registration marks to another image and set it to 2 passes and it worked fine. So now I can't reproduce the problem, but it happened 3 times yesterday. This blade isn't going to hold up long if it does this again. Any ideas?
  4. Wildgoose

    cutting mylar

    5 MM is something like 200 mil. I doubt it's THAT thick. More likely 5 or 6 mil which is .005 or .006 inches (around 0.15 mm) If it's 5 mm you aren't going to be cutting it with a regular cutter. Assuming it's not too thick to cut through. Stick it to your mew mat and start some test cuts. You may find that two or even three passes is necessary. I have some stuff I had to do two passes or one nearly maxed out pass and I liked the two passes better because it wasn't dragging so hard on the plastic which caused more weird deflection during the cut. It's a PIA to figure out what pressure to use for a two pass cut and I just dedicated a scrap to mess with and kept slowly increasing the pressure until I got it where I liked it. With a cutting mat you don't have to worry about cutting through.
  5. ShaneGreen


    Definitely get you a "CleanCut" blade. It cuts reflective so much better. Slow down as slow as it can go and you may still have to do 2 passes. I have a LP II and have spent days testing and retesting reflective. I've finally settled on: - a 60 degree CleanCut blade, - 450g of force. "Force" seems to be pretty relative and varies from machine to machine. I cut 651 at 125g but I've seen people say they use anywhere from 50 to 200. But mine needs roughly 3 1/2 times the force to cut reflective. - a speed of 100. That's the slowest mine will go. - two passes. It will cut in one pass the majority of the time, but I cut larger decals and when it doesn't complete the cut I'm wasting a lot of time and money. - weed immediately. Reflective seems to self-heal a lot quicker than 651. - be careful of fine details. Things like the dot on the letter "i" may cause you problems staying stuck to the backing paper. - Test, test and test some more.
  6. It has been posted many,many times on here about making multiple passes. It's not just magnet material. It's sticky flock. glitter HTV material, carbon fiber, reflective and many other thick materials. According to the UScutter buying guide, your not even supposed to cut high intensity reflective that is over 23 mil, but people do it and do it with 2 or more passes. But their taking that chance of tearing up their machine doing it. Here is the buying guide. You don't see magnet on the buying guide.
  7. I don't understand what you're saying? I asked a question asking how the multiple passes physically works? If the blade is either fully down or fully up, how exactly does multiple passes work? If the blade advances let's say 200 microns down each pass, this would be understandable to me as it's taking less of a 'bite' of the material per pass and is how other types of machines with a Z axis work. (CNC background) Sorry if I sounded confusing
  8. How does multiple passes work exactly? Does the solenoid somehow increase the depth on each subsequent pass? Otherwise, I don't understand how this works. I will gladly try multiple passes if you can explain how the feature works. The magnet material is loaded into the plotter with the 3M kraft paper (adhesive liner) facing up due to the way the magnet material is rolled.
  9. Wildgoose

    titan 2 cutting issues

    If you are prefeeding and it will run straight on the way out but not stay straight on the way back, all this while no blade touching then you have a tracking issue for sure. They usually don't recommend messing with the tension on the pinch rollers but possibly one got messed with or has become weak. We have seen new owners immediately start cranking on the pinch roller springs and get all sorts of wonky. If you can get it running true in and out without a blade then adjust your blade appropriately and it starts dragging the vinyl out of track then you could have weak pinch rollers. (not common) Most of the time we see set up being wrong and too much force being applied which causes bunching and off-track. A remedy can be as simple as a high quality Clean Cut blade that uses less force to cut with. Cutting stencil though is probably rough and tough with lots of pressure. I make a couple passes if I cut stencil so I don't abuse my machine but mine has great tracking and will stay in the same grove.
  10. I do two passes and I’m cutting through laminated Calendared vinyl. Vinyl is 11mil and laminate it 3 mil. 2 contour cuts and they pop out nice and clean. Sometimes you have to play with pressure to fine tune it.
  11. ShaneGreen

    3m reflective issues

    I've got in three rolls of 3m Scotchlite 5100-85, the red and black seem to cut fine but I'm struggling with this white. LaserPoint II with a new Cleancut-60 blade (blade height set to Ms Skeeterz standards, as always). For reference, Oracal 651 cuts at 75-110 grams of force (depending on color) and 400mm/sec. The reflective black and red are doing fine at 400grams of force and 100mm/sec. Four times the force and slow, it's what I expected. But this white....500grams 100mm/sec and two passes and even then it's tough to weed. The next step up in speed is 200mm/sec and it won't cut cleanly at any pressure with that speed . The attached picture is what happens at 200mm/sec OR with just one pass OR any pressure below 500grams. The left side of the picture shows the front of the decal. It's an oval with a bison in the middle. The right hand side is the back of vinyl after it comes off the carrier sheet (the sticky side). So anything below 500gm, 100mm/s, two passes and this is what I get: - The front looks like it makes a nice clean cut. - The rear looks like a nice clean cut. If you take it off the backing, like in the picture, it separates right where it should. - The carrier sheet shows a defined indentation every place you cut. - Lots of trash builds up on the blade tip with just this little 2x3 decal. - It's hard to get it to start weeding and then as you're pealing it off it will rip. Seriously, it's easier to rip the vinyl then it is to weed it on the cutline. - Any thin sections won't stay stuck to the backing once it's weeded. Something like a flame is completely impossible. The other colors aren't doing this. - I have a 0.050 weed box around it. About 80% of the box weeds fine and then short sections will either not weed or the top layer comes off leaving the reflective bottom layer behind. I thought about putting transfer tape on it, removing the carrier and weeding that way to see what would happen. It would sure make multi-layered images a pain. Should the white be this much different from the red and black? Am I stuck with multiple passes at turtle speed? Any recommendations?
  12. Okay, I followed those steps to get the blade to poke out as little as possible while still cutting vinyl and not backing, and changed the offset to 0. At 1 Pass, the blade only cuts deep enough if set to 28. At 2 Passes, it still needs to be around 24. With either force setting, the same issues with corners persists. With two passes it's less noticeable because sometimes it will cut bad on one of the passes but not the other pass, but in the end that still leaves for a weird cut. Do you know if there are any other settings that might be interfering as well?
  13. ELemon


    How many of you have been cutting Faux Leather with your Cameo or Cricut? I have been having the hardest time finding either good content that is helpful (video or just websites) with tips or ways to cut Faux Leather. The picture below has a few problems I am trying to solve. 1. Cutting into my mat. I soon wont have a mat to use if this keeps up, lol. For that particular project I used a Deep Cut Blade set at 18; Speed: 3; Force: 33; Passes: 1. ( Later I tried again with my AutoBlade set to 10; Speed: 3; Force:33; and Passes: 2 and still had deep cuts into my mat. 2. The mat seems to not be lining up right when I load it because it cut above the grid lines. 3. I was having problems with the leather moving around a lot and I seem to of resolved that issue with painters tape. So pretty much my main issue is just how to figure out with this leather the right cut setting. I have used and tried the "standard preset" for faux leather paper that comes with Silhouette Studio but it was not cutting at all thats why I got the deep cut blade. I feel like I could of done without it though because the Auto Blade does a decent job especially with 2 passes. Does anyone just feed their material straight in? How does that work for you?
  14. Hello I have a titan 3 vinyl cutter, i printed some text on a HP Latex 365 i did the contour cut option, everything printed well with registration marks. When i put it in my cutter and give the command to start it does not red the markings just passes on top and on the screen it says marks not detected, even if it detects the line one time when it goes for the second registration it misses it. Can someone tell me what i can do?
  15. haumana


    As weird as this sounds - sometimes I need the reflective to be temporary. If anyone has tried to peel off reflective, then they should know that it comes off in small pieces and is a total pain to remove. So when a temporary application is needed, I will often pre-layer the reflective on some 651 (whatever color I have the most inventory in), and then run it through the cutter, doing two passes. The end result is a pretty thick decal, but removing it is a breeze. Ditto on the Clean Cut Blade!
  16. This has got to be some of the crappiest news to hit. Dr Egon Spengler I mean Harold Ramis passed away today. Which is a big loss for Hollywood, and us Ghostbuster's fans, My prayers go to his family and to hos extended family Ray and Peter.. I mean Dan and Bill.
  17. Less force means I need more passes, correct? Doesn't look like the gs-24 plays nicely with macOS due to it requiring an Adobe Illustrator plugin.
  18. You may have had better luck, if you went with the Graphtec FC unit. The Graphtecs are just better, heavy duty cutters. That is what they are built for. There used to be a guy on here years back that cut plastic with his, making several passes. I own 2 of these FC cutters, and they are tanks. I have never tried to cut thicker materials, as that is not my niche' My niche' is very large long vinyl graphics. The cutters also have different positions that you can put the pinch rollers at to hold the material. You can still find good deals on the used Graphtec FC cutters. You just have to have the money and grab it.
  19. Any of you guys who run the lasers think you could cut with a laser? To klcjr - Magnets as mentioned are really hard to cut and hard on a fine tuned machine. Getting your cutter to cut accurately would be the very first thing you would need to do and you would want to start out by cutting some cheap sign vinyl which it's actually designed to cut. IF it's cutting regular vinyl at regular pressures ok but not the magnet then you will have an answer about whether your cutter has a problem or if it's related to the 30 mil issue. Assuming that it ALSO cuts out of dimensions then you will need to calibrate your cutter. Each cutting program goes about it a little different but they pretty much all have a way. If it's cutting sign vinyl at the correct size but not the magnet then you are probably not going to have success. The heavy magnetic material is likely more weight than your pinch rollers can keep hold of properly especially if you are dragging a knife blade through it. I have cut a few, and I stress FEW, like two times with my Summa. I did three passes at a regular pressure and it did ok. You also have a whole other part of the equation that you are probably not considering. You can't cut clear through any material without having some sort of carrier sheet. Vinyl and Heat Transfer Vinyl come on a carrier sheet. I seriously doubt your magnet does. I recommend if you keep trying and get it to cut satisfactory that you should leave just a little bit so the magnet is still one piece and then you can break it free. That's what I did on the couple that I cut. This will work for an occasional project but mass production is probably not all that viable. The big factories use a true die cutter and stamp cut them out I think. Very mass production.
  20. I did actually; I played with the blade depth, downforce, tried three and four passes, and tried cutting the magnet with the wax paper liner side facing down. No dice. Calibration is inconsistent.
  21. So, did you ever try the multiples passes?
  22. My apologies if it sounded like I wasn't taking advice or haven't tried to search before posting. I am definitely going to try multiple passes! As a machine designer, I was merely curious how the plotter actually advances the depth of the blade on each pass. From my prior knowledge, I think this can only be accomplished with a leadscrew and motor.
  23. It cuts the same design 2 or 3 times more, just like it did the 1st time. you choose the number of passes in your cutting software. Each pass will cut deeper. But like stated above. I would never run 30 mil magnet thru my Graphtec and I have a heavy duty FC unit. Good luck with your project.
  24. I still don't understand what 'multiple passes' means if the bladeholder solenoid is either fully up or fully down. The pinch rollers are also fully covering the material, cut and not-cut. I'm also not fully cutting through the material either.
  25. When there's a heavy drag, tracking gets to be more tricky. If i have to do layers - like reflective on vinyl because I want to be able to peel it the reflective off easily, I always do multiple passes - the force is lighter so there's less drag on the material when it's moving, less chance for the tracking to go askew. And do you have rollers on the part that's being cut, as well as the 'outside material' because once there is definitive cut through your material, only the part that being pinched by roller will want to jog back and forth, there by adding to drag. If you were trying to do with paper, the paper would bunch. That's why machines like the Cricut need to have 'carrier' sheets that have a light adhesive - it keeps everything moving as a single piece, even though it's cut so stuff doesn't bunch or get caught. You're basically cutting something that's 12x thicker than 651 vinyl, which is done in a single pass. I wouldn't even attempt to do a 30mil anything in a single pass.