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Found 331 results

  1. mihaidimitras

    help cutting reflective vinyl with the titan 3

    Hi i have the same Titan 3 and the same material 3m 3931 for me the setting that works is pressure 650- 675 and a 60 deg blade. Instead using a lot of material just use a piece and the test button until you get a perfect cut and the depth that you need and go from there . The second option would be to cut twice( 2 passes on the same path) .
  2. MZ SKEETER

    LP3 Suction

    Vinyl cutters/Plotters use the same basic functions and have for many years, Some with just more bells and whistles. Depending on which company made it, as to what they put on their button controls. Control panel. My Graphtec says Force. Or even in the cutting software, what they call it. Pressure/Force is the same thing. When someone asks about either one for their settings, we know what they are talking about. I might be wrong, but I think this last version LP3 cutters were introduced in 2018. Several different Laser Pointer models in the past. By the way, how did you set your blade depth. ? Reason I ask, is because UScutter, keeps posting videos with the wrong way to do it, and it is too much blade depth exposed. Blade depth is the first thing that you start with and it has to be correct from the git go, or the rest of your settings will not be correct. Tip: Never be pulling from the roll while cutting, Always have enough vinyl slack to do the order. My cutter has a prefeed, It helps with tracking and pulling the vinyl to give it the slack it needs. Buyers guide says this on reflective and your cutter. But buyers have tried different materials with their cutters. Some use 2 passes while cutting thicker materials. NOT for use on laminate sandblast mask reflective window tint https://www.uscutter.com/index/page/static/subpage/buying_guides_new Your welcome
  3. Intheshaw

    Mele Kalikimaka!

    Dakota, you ever figure out about the passes? I'll be in Maui in a couple of days, figured it was just the $25 fee like always. Only restrictions I'm seeing in the 1.50 reservation fee for a sunrise.
  4. ShaneGreen

    3m reflective issues

    I've got in three rolls of 3m Scotchlite 5100-85, the red and black seem to cut fine but I'm struggling with this white. LaserPoint II with a new Cleancut-60 blade (blade height set to Ms Skeeterz standards, as always). For reference, Oracal 651 cuts at 75-110 grams of force (depending on color) and 400mm/sec. The reflective black and red are doing fine at 400grams of force and 100mm/sec. Four times the force and slow, it's what I expected. But this white....500grams 100mm/sec and two passes and even then it's tough to weed. The next step up in speed is 200mm/sec and it won't cut cleanly at any pressure with that speed . The attached picture is what happens at 200mm/sec OR with just one pass OR any pressure below 500grams. The left side of the picture shows the front of the decal. It's an oval with a bison in the middle. The right hand side is the back of vinyl after it comes off the carrier sheet (the sticky side). So anything below 500gm, 100mm/s, two passes and this is what I get: - The front looks like it makes a nice clean cut. - The rear looks like a nice clean cut. If you take it off the backing, like in the picture, it separates right where it should. - The carrier sheet shows a defined indentation every place you cut. - Lots of trash builds up on the blade tip with just this little 2x3 decal. - It's hard to get it to start weeding and then as you're pealing it off it will rip. Seriously, it's easier to rip the vinyl then it is to weed it on the cutline. - Any thin sections won't stay stuck to the backing once it's weeded. Something like a flame is completely impossible. The other colors aren't doing this. - I have a 0.050 weed box around it. About 80% of the box weeds fine and then short sections will either not weed or the top layer comes off leaving the reflective bottom layer behind. I thought about putting transfer tape on it, removing the carrier and weeding that way to see what would happen. It would sure make multi-layered images a pain. Should the white be this much different from the red and black? Am I stuck with multiple passes at turtle speed? Any recommendations?
  5. Okay, I followed those steps to get the blade to poke out as little as possible while still cutting vinyl and not backing, and changed the offset to 0. At 1 Pass, the blade only cuts deep enough if set to 28. At 2 Passes, it still needs to be around 24. With either force setting, the same issues with corners persists. With two passes it's less noticeable because sometimes it will cut bad on one of the passes but not the other pass, but in the end that still leaves for a weird cut. Do you know if there are any other settings that might be interfering as well?
  6. ELemon

    Leather

    How many of you have been cutting Faux Leather with your Cameo or Cricut? I have been having the hardest time finding either good content that is helpful (video or just websites) with tips or ways to cut Faux Leather. The picture below has a few problems I am trying to solve. 1. Cutting into my mat. I soon wont have a mat to use if this keeps up, lol. For that particular project I used a Deep Cut Blade set at 18; Speed: 3; Force: 33; Passes: 1. ( Later I tried again with my AutoBlade set to 10; Speed: 3; Force:33; and Passes: 2 and still had deep cuts into my mat. 2. The mat seems to not be lining up right when I load it because it cut above the grid lines. 3. I was having problems with the leather moving around a lot and I seem to of resolved that issue with painters tape. So pretty much my main issue is just how to figure out with this leather the right cut setting. I have used and tried the "standard preset" for faux leather paper that comes with Silhouette Studio but it was not cutting at all thats why I got the deep cut blade. I feel like I could of done without it though because the Auto Blade does a decent job especially with 2 passes. Does anyone just feed their material straight in? How does that work for you?
  7. darcshadow

    Cutting Plastic

    I would say no as well, not sure the blade would even be big enough and if it is, it would not be able to do the pressure required to cut something that thick. It might be possible if you do 2 or 3 passes, but I would not count on the accuracy of the MH to be consistent enough to exactly trace the same path.
  8. haumana

    Hi Everyone!

    I strictly use 60*, however, I also cut 651 95% of the time. If I'm finding something tough to cut, I would rather do 2-passes using a 60*, than blade swapping. I do not want the hassle of having to adjusting blade depths unless I really, really, really have to ... like when I need to take the holder apart to clean it up and de-gunk whatever bits of vinyl might have gotten stuck in there.
  9. ShaneGreen

    Noob Questions

    White is my nemesis. No matter what brand I try it takes more pressure and just doesn't leave as nice a cut as the other colors. I've noticed I can cut a 24" x 60" red or black 3M reflective in two passes and it's a nice clean edge. Cut the same design in white reflective and there is so much drag that the 1st and 2nd cut don't always line up...frustrating. As for the Greenstar, I bought a bunch with my cutter for practice. Didn't care how much I wasted or gave away at the price. It was a great learning experience, because once I got good at cutting and weeding it I switched to 651 and it was night and day different. The 651 cuts, weeds and lays so much nicer! Can't imagine how much time and headache I would have saved myself if I'd just started with 651 and a CleanCut blade....but think of all the lessons I wouldn't have learned.
  10. MZ SKEETER

    Blades that last longer than Clean Cut?

    Corners lifting like that is usually too much blade exposed. On thicker stuff, just leave the blade alone and make 2 passes instead of 1 pass. Sometimes 3 passes.
  11. That stuff is 7 mil and really tough on blades. I don't know how you could ever forecast a blade problem. I would make sure your prices are high enough to cover an occasional issue because it's going to happen again. I bought a little lighted high magnification hand held microscope someone on the forum had suggested. Similar to this:https://www.ebay.com/p/Pocket-Microscope-Carson-MicroBrite-Plus-60x120x-Power-LED-Lighted/2254813830?iid=113506320660&chn=ps It takes some figuring out but you can actually see your blade tip and what shape it's in. That's how I figured out I actually sanded my tip off trying to cut glitter HTV in two passes.
  12. Hello Everyone, I purchased my SC2 back in September knowing full well from these forums that it was in fact a value cutter. My needs aren't that of a sign shop or even a decal shop so I thought maybe given the relative low use I planned to use this for wouldn't be a problem and the issues I've encountered to date haven't specifically been with the machine itself with the exception of setting the blade, which I have since found the instructions posted countless times here. What I'm having issues with now is the width of my stencils are ~30" and as it gets to the 26" > 30" mark(right to left) the cut begins to get less and less eventually not happening at all. Now with the help of reading through all these posts I've seen similar issues listed here Carrier off track from shipping or incorrect blade setting etc. As stated above I did initially set blade incorrectly and have since changed, set, reset multiple times following the directions of Mz Skeeter(I hope I spelled that correctly from memory) also I've checked to see if the carrier was on track and w/out completely disassembling the unit near as I can tell both wheels/rollers are in the correct channel. I'm really just looking for any assistance you guys can provide. I haven't contacted support as of yet, as I was hoping to draw on the vast knowledge of this group before going that far. Details: Windows 10 machine SC2 34" Cutting 5mil Duralar VinylMaster Cut 4.0 - I've also had it making 2 passes/cuts Individual sheets being fed Hopefully I have provided enough information Chris Also in the Setting up cutter guide it provided this link to a video on checking that carrier was on track which is unavailable. https://youtu.be/4EHPvnLYoI4
  13. Dakotagrafx

    magnetic material (newbie question)

    people have done it - sometimes with multiple passes - personally I would never put something that thick thru my main plotter. we did have a guy a few years back that kept an old MH just for stuff like this so he didn't abuse his graphtec
  14. This has got to be some of the crappiest news to hit. Dr Egon Spengler I mean Harold Ramis passed away today. Which is a big loss for Hollywood, and us Ghostbuster's fans, My prayers go to his family and to hos extended family Ray and Peter.. I mean Dan and Bill.
  15. MZ SKEETER

    SC2 34" left side not cutting

    then try raising the force a little and see what results you get. 2 passes would be the best way.
  16. haumana

    Mele Kalikimaka!

    The Fed's website says that it's $25/car. Even the Annual passes are cheaper than $180 I can't believe they have to take reservations too. It must've gotten a lot busier than it used to be.
  17. third tab in production manager of your graphtec pro studio has a radio button for "passes" - make it 2 passes and let your software do it for you. if a thick hard to cut item like a sandblast mask you should be using a red blade holder and blade and not the blue holder that comes with the plotter
  18. Greetings! I am new to the forum, and new to vinyl cutting. I browsed the forums quite a bit before and after ordering my SC2 and have looked around a little since cutting my first few experiments. I really like how this forum appears to be a real community helping each other out.. I hope to learn and share as much as I can in the future. I am a graphic designs for a semi large screen print and embroidery house in Texas and I am a self proclaimed "vector snob". I have a VERY good understanding of the ins and outs of Adobe illustrator so please let me know if you have any questions. The examples I have attached were created in Adobe Illustrator and the vector files opened in the "Vinyl Master Cut V4" and cut with no further editing in that software. I work on a windows PC and I have my plotter set up with a serial cable.I read the suggestions on here for setting up the blade depth and did my best to set my machine up that way. All of the white graphics were on Oracal 651 material and cut with my machine set to 100 speed, the black graphics were on 651and i think they cut at 500, and the yellow was on 751C also at 500. The yellow graphic actually looks pretty decent but its on the bigger side and there are still some little things i would like to clean up.. and it ran way faster than the white vinyl. OK now that I feel like I got the particulars out of the way... I am wondering if my passion for clean vector graphics is ruining my expectations of what my plotter is actually cutting. I would have thought that straight lines and rectangles would be bread and butter but that seems to be my major beef. I added the image of the skull because that one cut pretty much perfectly. My biggest gripe is with the quality of the text. The tops and bottoms and vertical lines across the lettering dont stay straight and seem inconsistent across the letters. I have "hangnails" and I have read about bumping the blade offset "a little" will help with that.. my machine is at .35 passes are 1.. what should I bump it to? People are cutting text way smaller than this and I dont know if my expectations are screwy or if there is maybe something I am missing. I would love to hear any input you have on either clearing up my expectations OR how i may be able to clean up my cuts.. Thank you and I hope to hear back from someone!
  19. make 2 passes instead of 1 pass. Even 3 passes if you have to.
  20. Tenfour86

    Looking for a laser cutter option

    I have a Full Spectrum Laser, 45 watt, Gen 5 unit (now marketed as an H-Series laser) that I have been pretty happy with. I chose it because it was relatively comparable to similar sized units offered by Epilog, Trotec, and Universal Laser, but way more affordable for me with a price tag of $3,000 at the time. Unfortunately, I'm unfamiliar with the eBay units. Most of them seemed to have pretty small engraving areas and I couldn't find much information on control software for them when I was looking to buy, which is ultimately what convinced me to buy from a brick and mortar company. I can offer some insight from my experience though. 40 watts is a good starting point, but you'll soon realize more power would be helpful. Definitely go with a higher wattage if you can, and you won't be disappointed. I won't say that wattage doesn't matter as much when engraving, but it really makes a difference when cutting. At 45 watts it's still a challenge for me to get through 1/4 ply (which is closer to 3/16 really) or 8 oz. leather even with multiple passes. The fewer passes you have to make, and the faster you can make them, the cleaner your cuts will be. My first pass when cutting is generally very clean, but subsequent passes will begin to char or deposit smoke. Equally as important as wattage is the usable engraving area of the machine. 20x12 works for most of my small projects, but as a nice perk, the bottom of my machine is removable which allows it to be lifted up or set on top of large objects that don't fit inside. Also consider height of the machine too since you're looking to fit a rotary attachment in there. The rotary attachment plus the object on top of it take up vertical space, and you still need some to spare in order to focus your lens. I’m not sure I could get a rotary attachment and drinking glass into my machine and still have room to focus without first removing the bottom and raising it up. FSL even started producing an extension box because of this. I can't comment much on laser control software as I've only used retinaengrave, so hopefully others on here can speak about the software other machines use. As an aside, my laser will certainly engrave glass, but I've found that sandblasting will produce a much more opaque and deeper etch than my laser can. You can get more detail with a laser though, so it's a tradeoff either way.
  21. MZ SKEETER

    PRS number for LaserPoint2

    There is no set pressure/force for any vinyl cutter or vinyl. You must follow the blade depth set up instructions to set the force for any vinyl cutter and vinyl. You may even need to make 2-3 different passes on hard to cut vinyl. You have to experiment with your force using the TEST feature. Then write it down and keep it for the future. Then it will be your starting point, next time. How to set blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing., You should just barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder.
  22. Some hard material to cut needs a couple passes instead of 1 pass. Have you tried that? Plus a sharp blade.
  23. It could possibly be the reading of these special colored ones that is causing the extra passes somehow. Just a thought.
  24. ShaneGreen

    Sound proofing a cutter. . .

    Has anyone ever tried adding some sound deadening material to the insides of one of these cutters? I've got an LPII and the stepper motors are loud, but usually it's cutting so fast that it's mostly a high pitched annoyance for a few minutes. Sounded like a dial-up modem on crack. But now I've started cutting a lot more Scotchlite reflective. . .at 100mm/sec and two passes. What took ten minutes now takes an hour and the slow speed and thicker material gives it a nice dawn-of-the-dead type moan. I need to cut for about 3 hours this afternoon and there is no way I can handle it with this sinus headache. So I'm thinking of lining the top cover and the inside of both side covers with some sort of adhesive foam. Has anyone tried it? Does anyone think it will help? I can't afford to upgrade for a while so I've got to do something with what I've got.
  25. ShaneGreen

    Sound proofing a cutter. . .

    Added some foam tape under the hood that covers the track and that helped a bit, but not much room in there to add anything. Dakota, I may follow your dot matrix idea and build a partial box around it with some egg crate. Darcshadow, that's what I've done when I could, start it and leave the room but it's not always possible. And today it would have been a mess! VinylMaster decided to cut each registration mark 4 times...@2 passes each for the reflective, so a total of 8 cuts for each registration mark. Needless to say the vinyl didn't stay in place and the blade holder started dragging it around.