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Jimbo, you got a solution that was offered 15 years ago, which is a fine testament to the effectiveness of these Forums and its Search functionality. By the way, 'mobby' was one of the most-well-versed people regarding SignBlazer, as he was personally familiar with the developer (Jerry Bonham). All of that is water under the bridge, of course, but it's great to see people are still able to obtain "Help" on a program that's long since been abandoned in the marketplace.

DXF files are not really cutter friendly. They look like a constant line, but they are actually several line segments and are typically not joined. VM can't do a contour, because it doesn't see a shape to contour cut around. You will need to join all the segments in order to create a shape. I might be as simple as joining the 3 areas circled below or you might need to join every single little line segment. Some software has the ability to automatically join line segments that are close enough, although this can give some funky results some times. I believe Inkscape has this ability. If you can get the file as an eps, ai, or svg rather than a dxf that would be the easiest way to go.

Update! Since we're in Hawai'i, Graphtec recommended that we check with a local authorized repair shop rather than send the whole thing to continental US. We called up the recommended shop and after hearing of our issue asked, "when did you last replace the plunger?" They noted that those can stop working, preventing the blade from spinning/rotating. We ordered a new plunger from them and we're back in business! We finished out the 15mil synthetic job and are getting through the 10mil job as I write this. The old plunger has been marked and is still good enough for most of our paper jobs. I did let the boss know about the other blades you folks recommended. Thank you

. Has this cutter ever cut correctly? Is it new or used? Your cutter is a value cutter with a cheap Chinese chipset on it,, will take a bit of fine tuning to cut correctly. Best to use with a Tripplite Keyspan Adapter and your null modem cable. Setting your blade depth correctly is the first thing you have to get correct, You do not use the depth of a credit card or post it notes. That is way too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. You set the blade depth to the vinyl you will be cutting.( Instructions below). For blade offset, start at 0.25mm and adjust at 0.05 to be correct. Show your test cuts from the TEST cut feature on the machine. That has to be correct first, before you cut anything. Square should be square. You could also ad a little overcut in your cutting software, but that is not going to fix what you have going on. You have to start with the correct blade depth first. this info has been posted on here hundreds and hundreds of times, it applies to any brand of vinyl cutter, except a Graphtec has a ZERO blade offset. Something that you will have to do if you haven't, if that cutter is on a stand, it needs grounded to the stand, or static from the vinyl, will stop the cutter. The tracking is not good on those cutters for larger designs. The memory is also not good for larger designs. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.

My cutter appears to be one of the numerous re-branded versions of the ct630. It's currently running v2.01 firmware and generally seems to work ok but i am a n00b at using vinyl cutters. I have my own eprom burner - so while it's not worth it to me to pay for a programmed chip with unknown improvements, I'm curious enough that if i can get an image of the firmware i think it would be neat to see what the difference may be.

So, what kind of stories do you have out there of your first vehicle wrap experience. I'll go first. I did the quarter and a door on my truck today, and lets put it this way, if we count how many wrinkles are there you have Barbara Walters! Ok, all bad jokes aside, jeez I thought this was going to be a little easier. Probably doesnt help that I have to cut 60" vinyl on the ground, and the wind would not cooperate by stopping! Wrinkles, blems, and cuts oh my! The real question is should I press on and potentially waste the rest of the $250 spent for the Hexis, or should I cut my losses now?! Hmmmm....

Again, have you checked what COM Port your Windows machine has assigned to the cutter? Yes, VinylMaster does work with Windows 7. Sign Blazer (SBE) - I would recommend that you absolutely find out with COM Port, and manually designated it in SBE, because auto detect doesn't always work properly. I don't have an LP II, but I do have an original LP, and the machine that I needed to select from the list was the Creation PCUT 735.

Without knowing much about Roland machines, I can tell you that this error is related to some sensor within the circuitry that's failed. Think of it like a car that displays a CheckEngineLight --- it could be caused by any number of things within the sensor loops. Until you have the vehicle computer scanned to read the code which describes specifically what is wrong, you cannot troubleshoot. Your unit is throwing a 'code' that explains what is wrong. The internal computer has discovered that a pinchroller sensor isn't sending back a clear signal, and if I were in your shoes, that machine would be disassembled and the wiring from the pinchrollers to the motherboard checked for electrical continuity. That would be the first thing to investigate, certainly. By the way, a google search for CJ500 produces a Mahindra jeep, a classic!

Although you did the letters from scratch, it might be useful to investigate the cost of these size letters from Woodland. That way, you'll know what the price of individual plastic letters are to the average Joe who doesn't have the capabilities to cut them out of wood with a CNC machine. When I quote a job for dimensional lettering, I'll triple the price they charge for just the letters, and then factor in the install process (affixing the template & drilling holes for the mounting studs into the wall). Placing these neatly aligned onto a wall is the main challenge, depending on how high up they're going to be. In most cases, a man-lift or bucket-truck is preferable, although I have seen it done with straight ladders, which is a PIA.

If that's the case I'd try changing the hole size. Some duct tape with a hole punched in it would probably do the trick. The hole might get larger over time but it'd be an easy fix. Or a small circular piece of polycarbonate (Lexan) with a hole drilled in it and then taped in place. You can get 1/16" thick sheets from amazon for about $7. Could probably even cut a circle out of a plastic party cup. Another option, and it's bit more extreme, drill small holes in the suction cup part so that it doesn't make an air tight seal. If the suction is strong enough it should still pick up paper.

Just wanted to say HI and let all my friends on the forum that I am still around. I spent the past few years taking care of my wife so I had to put all my work on the back burner. I'm doing very little work, mainly for friends at the moment. I'm still in the process of getting all the paperwork done. Once again, Hello everyone.

Ok, did some test cuts, came out great but what just blew me away was cutting some glitter. I hated working with glitter, the Graphtec just laughed at me and cut it amazingly. Wish I got this thing sooner. I spent several hours last week weeding glitter. Had I only known. ha!

I would replace them anything less than a 1/4. Try again. mark-s

OK, I'm getting a feel for why you are unloading this unit. From what you described, it's the software which intimidates/disappoints your spouse. VinylMaster has a fairly steep learning curve for newbies, and although it's full-featured, that unto itself makes it somewhat difficult to grasp the fundamentals. I've stuck with SignBlazer since getting my first cutter a decade ago (back then, USCUTTER still bundled it with their equipment). The cartoon-like interface appealed to me when I started doing this work, and it still does. Perhaps if your wife likes using the SignBlazer program, then she'll want to retain the unit and you don't have to take a loss on it.

Hate to say this, Kainth, but what you did there is not very useful, at all, from the standpoint of providing what was requested. .pdf? How is that even cuttable? He wants an SBD file, which I could make in two minutes, but I won't. In fact, I think this poster is just messing around with us, he was here with the exact same 'threepers' militia logo in 2020. For the record, Three Percenters have a track record of criminal activity ranging from weapons violations to terrorist plots and attacks. (according to the ADL, the Jewish Anti-Defamation League). He was given the exact information he needs to do his own cutting file. If he can't manage it, that's his problem, not ours.

There is already a thread here that people showed their shops, you will have to find it. Also, there is only a couple handfuls of forum members that answer questions anymore. I never went small. I started with large graphics and never looked back. My average is 20" wide by 8 feet. L. Clear up to 27" w x 16 feet .L. I prefer making my money fast. Less work, more pay. Large detailed graphics is my niche' I work out of a 13' x 14' bedroom, 8 ft table, 30" cutter, old XP laptop. I have been at it for 16 years, online only. Good luck.

Signblazer is an unlimited trial now. It has been for quite sometime. It cannot upgrade. There is not any support for it. The owner passed away, years back.

Wow...first post and reviving a dead thread!

Not sure how you sized the logos. But when I do race cars or any vehicle, I usually take a picture of it with a piece of 8.5x11 piece of paper taped to it. Then I do my design work. The when the design is ready for print or cut. I make an 8.5 inch line. Then I size the picture with the design to match the line using the piece of paper. Car looks good.

I found this used cutter for sell. I see its a cutter and printer. did a lil online research, saw most complaint was for the cost of using it for printing and heads going bad. can anyone school me on this machine? ins and outs and what would be a decent price if its a decent cond and working machine. owner told me he never used the printing feature

Bagged, poo...

Ya, Youtube and I need to get a room.. lmao I guess frustration means im on the right learning curve path.. lol

Ya do not apply that material wet. It is re-positionable also start at the top, work your way down, pop it off if you get a wrinkle and work it out. Watch a few vids and see what they do.

If your using a wrapping cast, never wet install. period. If your "wrapping" with a regular sign vinyl then you might want to do it wet but I do not suggest this at all. It is all together wrong material for the job.

ok so you are not talking about a wrap. you are applying large cut vinyl pieces. a WRAP is done by using printed vinyl on vinyl + laminate made just for doing a vinyl wrap. ex printed IJ180cv3 with 8518 overlaminate. not standard cut vinyl. if you wet install wrap vinyl you will never get out all the water from the micro air release channels. it will cause the wrap to fail!!!