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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I currently own a LP24, and this discussion is making me re-think the want (because it's definitely not a need), of a larger cutter. [In a totally good way!] I've babied my cutter as much as I possibly could, and probably took far more care in moving in from one house to another, than any other possession I own. That being said, it's over 10-years old, and it's about time that I start to think about a back-up. I was considering just one size up, but thinking about the whole cumbersome app tape of large pieces, I need to rethink this. My "go to" CYA for larger pieces is, "Professional installation not included," and most people (and companies) are okay with that. Just about everyone and their mother knows how to put on a cut vinyl decal here, since it seems to be a staple for almost everything that is motorized and moves here (cars, mopeds, golf carts, go karts, fork lifts - decals everywhere!). Thank you for this discussion, it's certainly shed some light on some aspects that did have the forethought to have myself.
  2. 2 points
    Also, if you want to know what's in a document use the Object Manager:
  3. 2 points
    From Mz. skeeter and the method used most for accurate blade depth To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing.
  4. 2 points
    That looks like way too much blade. For normal vinyl anyway, you can only just barely see the blade. I also agree with haumana, that cut doesn't look like the blade is rotating. I suppose it could possible that is caused by too much blade exposure and too much pressure. Look for Mz. Skeeter's posts on how to set correct blade height and start from there.
  5. 2 points
    Started on a WinXP laptop with Sign Blazer. Changed residence and connected the cutter to a PC desktop (Win7). Worked great, until it didn't - it was a Win box after all. Picked up a MacPro, tried to make the cutter work with FlexiSign, didn't want to take the time to relearn a cutting software ... Paralleled the Mac, installed SB on 2nd Windows HD, hit the ground running. Still have the same setup to this day. I've updated the Mac OS only when necessary, and keep the Win7 as-is. I like my legacy software, because none of it cloud or subscription based. If I had to do it all over again, I'd do it the same way. I will freely admit that I am 'behind the times,' but then again - If it ain't broke...! As far as iOS upgrades ... everything turns to brick. Hahaha.
  6. 1 point
    I really think it's a lack of blade rotation in the blade holder. If you look at your example, all the good "cuts" are in the same direction, the reason why it's lifting a bit and creating that arrow effect is because when it's changing directions, the blade is most like not rotating in the proper direction, so it drags the back of the blade against the cut and create the lift. It looks like you have a good amount of pressure on it as well, since the back of the blade is not just "scratching" the vinyl, but leaving depressions on the vinyl. I know it sucks, but start from scratch as if you're putting in a new blade and trying to determine blade depth and pressure. When all else fails for me, that's what I do and inevitably the issue get's resolved. Going to be honest here - some of my different blades need to stick out at different depths from the holder. Done underestimate the ability to get small bits of junk in the blade holder shaft, and what a smidgen of lubricant can do for the blade/blade holder. I forgot to mention, and I don't know if anyone else has this issue - with different colors, even if it's from the same manufacturer, I will have to change the pressure. It's kind of weird. Good luck, and keep us updated.
  7. 1 point
    The rare occasions that the actual design is over 18ft I just down the scale by a round number like 50% so it's easy to scale back up in your cutting software. Don't know how that works in SCALP which I know you use. In SignCut when I view the actual design it will tell me a given height and width that it was designed in and I just manually calculate it and I'm cutting. I don't often need to do this due to large stuff but sometimes have to for super small HTV work where there are complicated pathfinder operations that cause issues with super tiny text or things like that. I often create them larger and then reduce the size at cutting time to get around the weird glitch common to tiny stuff in AI. Even this is a real rarity but have had it happen occasionally. The only job I have done over 18ft was a large lettering that went on an I-beam that was 22ft long. I knew the overall dimensions I had to work with and was cutting based on the letter height or 10" or whatever it was and the 22ft number was actually a byproduct of the height so it didn't matter other than finding the center to install.
  8. 1 point
    if you take it our and cut by hand and it cuts thru the vinyl and cuts the paper it is too much blade - as described in hundreds of post and at least 2 in the instructional contributions section of the forum. you can't determine that by looking
  9. 1 point
    First of all, what are you attempting to accomplish? Are you having issues with the Cutting part? Or the Designing? Have you just browsed through the HELP menu and read about various topics? (Such as "Outlines" for instance) Do you have any prior background in Vector graphics at all?
  10. 1 point
    Don't use VM, but can tell you to stand back and do not try to learn everything all at once. Start with a simple square and build from there. Sounds childish, but you can turn a square into anything. Play a bit at a time and walk away when you start to get frustrated. It takes time, and you will get there.
  11. 1 point
    when checking for bits of random vinyl, take the time to shine a flash light in the blade holder hole - there have been several times that I've gotten itty-bitty pieces in there, and it completely stops the blade from rotating.
  12. 1 point
    when you check the blade and oil the holder also check for any bits of vinyl in the tip of the holder
  13. 1 point
    Yeah, just grab a replacement cutter, you'll pay it off quick enough.
  14. 1 point
    Try that with a 12 ft long piece