Search the Community

I need some help on deciding what to get drop your opinion. I've done some research on titan 3 cutter and there's not much info out there or videos on how and what kind of cuts or quality it does? Does it get close to what a graphtec ce7000-60 plus do ?

Anyone know if the Titan 2 is compatible with SBE? and if so, which cutter should be selected? TIA

So about a month ago our computer crashed and we had to update and reinstall vinyl master on our new hard drive. I have been having issues with calibration. I called support and was told to possible change the carriage. A tech came out and changed the carriage however my laser arms and alignment are still cutting off my image. Is there not anyone in Dallas that knows this machine to help when your contour cut of an image is not cutting correctly? We have a hanging project until I can figure this out.

Hello - I'm wondering if anyone knows what the compatible blade is for the Titan 2 machine. My niece just got a machine (second hand), and I want to pick-up a couple of Clean Cut Blades for her, but am not sure which to select. TIA.

Hello, New to the US Cutter world. Had Mimaki's in the past. I purchased a used Titan 3 28" cutter from a friend. He was unable to find the manual and software PSN so I had to purchase new VinylMaster Cut v5. I haven't been able to get it to communicate with the cutter. The Titan machine does make a test cut from the keypad on the Titan, but nothing from the VinylMaster software. Called tech support and they walked me through troubleshooting steps and determined my I/O board is bad. In Device Managers, under Ports, the USB Serial (COM3) does show up. Is this a common problem? I ordered the I/O board from US Cutter. Any tricks to installing it? Thanks, Nick Signs by Nick Denver

Can the Titan 2 with a stand, be used as a tabletop cutter, without the stand?

I'm new to cutting vinyl. Just picked up the titan 3 a couple months ago and I'm finally getting around to trying it. I would like to cut some small logos for my shop. I'm thinking like 3" x 2.5" with lettering. Right now I'm using 45 degree cheaper Blades offered from the uscutter site. I'm using 631 vinyl. The small letters look alright but sometimes they pull up while I'm trying to weed. I did the test cut feature but it still seems to do it. Once I make the logo bigger it works better. What recommendations would you guys have? Thanks!

Hi, I'm new to the forum and these topics. I'm looking to make stencils, paint masks, etc for pinstriping and air brushing. Also Vinyl lettering and exploring more about cutters possibilities. Also looking at input for the software. Like graphtec studio pro vs vinylmaster dtr vs coreldraw? I'm looking for a relative simple software that's beginner friendly. I'm not looking to hand create anymore. Looking for suggestions and ideas to exploring this new adventure. Thank you

I purchased the HP Latex/Titan 3 Combo and want to perfcut decals. Looking for someone who might be doing this already to save me a couple steps.

Hello, I have purchased a TITAN 3 for its wide cutting capability, but I have a big issue. We cut small vinyl (car stickers) in quite large quantities, several hundred per day. Until now, we were cutting these files on a Roland (using Versaworks), which has an automatic nesting and grouping function. However, now I'm considering transitioning to the new tool. I have subscribed to VinylMaster, but I don't know how I can import multiple files at once and then cut them simultaneously using the nesting function of the software. Since I am new to using the software, a step-by-step explanation would be very helpful, or if you can find one, a video showing how to do this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much!

does anyone know where I can download an older version of signblazer. I have the program on a very old PC and dont have the install CD. I need to get the program and old files to my new computer :( any help would be appreciated

Bought a used non working Titan 3 68 inch from an individual. Powers up, green led on power supply, fan runs, display and buttons light up, but is blank. Replaced carriage board and gained that now when powered up it says us cutter and titan 3 in display then goes blank. Replaced motherboard and display is same but also now the carriage move to the right side now and that is it. The only button on the control panel that gets a reaction is the reset button, all others no response. Have replaced the carriage ribbon wire with new and same results. Have tried all combinations with both Carriage boards and both motherboards and both carriage ribbons with no change. I have a green led on solid and a red led flashing on the motherboard. I've been working with Greg and Steve from support but neither have been able to tell me what the flashing red LED means. They are in the process of trying to get me a new control panel but I have mine out and looks good. I asked for all new ribbon cables and a new i/o board but they thought the i/o board wasn't the problem. My ribbon cable on my display appears to me to be permanently attached but they say not. I've got cuts a lot pro 5 loaded om laptop with usb cable, no change, and laptop does not recognize cutter. Any suggestions. And thank you to support, they have made every effort to get this thing going but haven't come up with the correct answer. What am I missing here? Possibly a bad wire from power supply over to the right side. New motherboard could be bad? Has correct part number on packaging. There's not much else to go bad , is there? Right now I'm hoping it is the white ribbon cable going up to the display. The push button board looks perfect, can't see anything wrong there. The white cable on the display has a couple kinks in it but no bare spots. All connections were still siliconed except where the i/o board cable plugged into the motherboard. Thanks in advance.

Is Signblazer compatible with a USCutter MH871? I don't see the cutter listed under the program's cutter setup but I do see "Generic DMPL" and "Generic HPGL" listed.

My Titan has started cutting dashed lines in spots. It only happens on straight lines. Curved lines cut fine. I have called customer support and we have tried adjusting pressure, new blades, cut depth and the tension on the back of the machine on the feeder part. Still nothing has helped. Has anyone else experienced this and found a solution to it. THX!

My titan 2 stopped cutting in the middle of a time sensitive job. .Stopped and started over and same problem. Completely closed vinyl master pro, started again and getting a pop up that usb connection in not recognized by microsoft windows. SO........ uninstalled and downloaded VM Pro from us cutter web site. Still getting same message. Machine is grounded. RAunning windows 10. ANY assistance would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have only used this Titan 2 a couple of times and has been a year since last use. Recently I created a stencil and I tried to make an adjustment to rotate/ make the numbers larger. now the cutter blade is all the way down and cuts and pushes the stencil paper into a mess. Also the blade gets real hot. Can anyone advise. THX

I have been using the MH cutters for years with no problems. I use my cutters everyday for hours on end cutting stickers and they have served me well for many years. One of the MH 871s that I have been using forever started leaving little dog ears on the cuts and no amount of tweeking, new blades, offset etc could get rid of them. They were increasing my weed time so I figured I would finally upgrade to a Titan cutter. Ordered the cutter, it came and got it all hooked up and cutting with no problems. What a difference between the Titan and the MH cutters, the cuts are clean and no more dog ears. As much as I love the MH cutters I will say the Titan does cut a lot cleaner. My situation is this: The cutter is less than a week old and when I first started cutting with it I would hit the off line/on line button, load the vinyl and hit the off line/on line button again and start cutting away. Today something strange started happening, every now and then when I hit the off line/on line button it will spit the vinyl out the back and I will have to reload and try again, sometimes it does it a couple of times before it just brings the machine back on line so I can start cutting. I have gone over the manual and looked through the forum but can't find an answer as to why it started doing this, am I missing something or doing something wrong? The ground wire is connected metal to metal from the cutter to the stand, I am using direct USB, windows 10 fully updated, Vinylmaster Pro and once the machine is back online it cuts flawlessly so I am not sure what is causing the vinyl to be spit out the back of the machine when pressing the off line/on line button. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Diver4

Apologies for the Tolstoy. I should stress that I have successfully used this setup, but some of it really doesn't make sense to me. A while back I bought a gimpy old 24" vinyl cutter off someone for cheap. A JSI 24. I'm a very technical guy and was up for the challenge for the $60 I paid. The guy selling it didn't know what was wrong with it. I think he took it home from work or something. It looks exactly, precisely, like a Creation P-Cut 630. And the P-Cut 630 manual includes instructions for driving the control panel on top that exactly match what I see on mine, other than branding and firmware version. The motherboard is branded "King Cut". I've seen people say that this machine is mostly the same as a CoPam 2500? JSI appears to still exist as a company that just sells sign making supplies. I discovered that the physical db25 serial port had been very poorly soldered to the ribbon cable that goes to the motherboard, and then abused a bit so that at least one line was broken and some lines were shorted together. That gray ribbon cable isn't meant to be soldered at all so it takes a fair bit of care to do a good job. I was able to fix this. The serial port works now. I am inching toward cobbling together an internal usb converter circuit that will plug into the socket that the MAX232CPE occupies on the motherboard. Already designed and printed the connector plate and have some ch340 modules with full hardware flow control output. I just have to figure out how the serial lines were mapped to the different ins and outs on the max232. Initially, I figured I would use InkCut, since it's open-source and I'm an open-source kinda guy, and because I'm just farting around and not running a sign shop or making commercial t-shirts or anything. But it doesn't appear to, ah, work. It has got out of sync with some of the libraries it depends on and the developers are MIA, and I don't have the skills to fix it. It's a shame because i sort of know my way around Inkscape a little bit, and I just wanted something that will take an svg and drive the cutter. But it was not to be. This cutter has what appear to be two end-stop switches at either end of the carriage. Coming from my 3d printer and CNC experience, I'd presumed that these would be used to allow the firmware and software to self-home the cutting head. This is not the case. After getting tired of hearing the X motor grind the cutter against the right-hand end of the carriage (the end with the control panel) I investigated and found that one of the wires on that switch was broken. After repairing that connection, I discovered that pressing either of these apparent end-stop switches causes the motherboard to reset. Investigating a little further, I don't think that is an error because they are physically connected to the reset line on the motherboard's MCU - the left-hand one connected through a multi-pin header it shares with i think the Y motor, and the right-hand one connected to the two pin header clearly marked "RESET". Curiously, the "RESET" key on the control panel doesn't do anything. But these wires were hot-glued to their respective connectors and the lay of the wire suggests that they were always there. And there is no obvious place on the motherboard to connect end-stop switches. So, fine, I'll just make sure that I try to use the machine in such a way as to not ram the cutting head into either end of the carriage. Maybe I'll figure out how to get the reset key on the control panel working and remove them. To be honest, if Inkcut worked, I'd be tempted to remove the original motherboard and install something that runs GRBL. But whatever. On to signblazer. On the cutter screen of signblazer, it is strongly implied that the origin point is at the start of the material on the right-hand side of the cutter - that is to say, my right hand as i face the front of the cutter. And then when it starts moving the cutting head, it goes hard right, and hits the button on the end of the carriage, resetting the machine. Or before i repaired that switch, just grinding the motor. OK, fine, the machine and signblazer disagree about what an "origin" is, so i go ahead and start with the cutting head to the far left. But strangely the pattern is not flipped or mirrored in any way - it is cut the way that it is shown in the signblazer gui. My final issue is that the first thing it does appears to be to advance the material on the Y axis to approximately 200% of the size of the work and then cut the pattern on the far end of that, wasting as much material as i am actually getting to use. Is that due to something i have done wrong on the main screen of signblazer?

I have two cutters attached to my Win10Pro PC (i5, 32GB RAM, 256GB SSD) Titan 2 and Graphtec CE6000, both connected via USB I currently run SCAL4 and SCAL4Pro. I generally run jobs around 36" in length containing various designs (script wording, soccer balls, pirate ships, etc.) If I run a small job (one or two designs) the end cut is perfect. Nice clean edges. If I run a large job (36" of many designs) then the cuts start to lose detail, almost like the cutters are skipping nodes. It's always on the smaller designs (5" and smaller) with detail. I've attached an example of what both of my cutters are doing. I've swapped USB cables, swapped PC's, tried different USB ports, checked for PC chipset upgrades, PC upgrades, and attempted a support conversation with Craft Edge (went nowhere.) I'm going to try SCAL5 to see if that has any impact. Not a fan of 5 but if this fixes our issue then i can live with that. Does anyone have anything I could try to fix this? many thanks Chris

Does anyone know or can they confirm if the Titan 1 control panel will work on the Titan 2 ? I pinched my display cable(s) while changing the mother board & belt. So only part of my display works as with only half the controls.. But UScutter doesn't have any in stock for the titan2.

Good evening all, I made a post a little over a month ago about having issues with my 68" Titan 3 getting lost during contour cutting. I am still having some issues with this, and looking for some guidance. For reference, I have calibrated the ARMS, I have calibrated the Laser for Barcode scanning, I have calibrated cutter scale. I can not seem to get anywhere here. In the example below I have printed (35) 6" x 3" decals (7 columns, 5 rows), on 54" wide material with lamination. No matter whether I use the ARMS marks, or barcode scanner the results are the same. What happens, is the laser will scan either the reg marks/barcode and get to work. All of the decals on the outside edges (So the first row, last row, first column, last column) will come out perfectly. However all other decals will come out with the contour hugging the bottom of the decal. (See photos below). I am at a loss of what to do. I've tried laminated vs un laminated. I've done all the calibrations a dozen times, I've tried different blades, I have reset the blade heights, I have even gotten all the skew to nearly zero, I have even left a print rolled up to get any curling out over night,ut I still have the same results. Still always the same issue. All the decals close to the reg marks are good, all others are not. This issue is also very repeatable. I can take a group like below, cut them. The middle decals will all be off. So I will rerun the cut program, and the cutter will trace right back over all the previous cuts INCLUDING all of the decals that it was misaligned on.

Good evening everyone, So I recently purchased a Titan 3 68" about a week ago, and I've been tinkering around with it and it seems to be pretty a solid upgrade from my trusty MH 871-MK2 I used for years. The speed, and quietness is pretty nice. Racing is how I got into this whole deal, and I've been doing cars with manual vinyl for about 5 years. I recently stumbled across a good HP Latex at the beginning of the year, and have finally got it running. So I needed a cutter to go along with it, and I've been happy with my US Cutter MH 871 for years, a lot of people frown on them, but you just need to learn how to adapt around the machine. I've made tons of money with it. Doing vinyl work is a side gig for me, my day job is a mechanical engineer. So I didn't want to jump into the big penny Graphtec's right off the bat. As I was unsure how all this would unfold for me. So that being said, alignment with the Titan 3. I feel like I have most the kinks worked out, but I am having alignment issues front to back, not so much side to side. I line my vinyl up, even out the pinch rollers on the sides, and check for no to minimal skew from front to back of the work. I just got done with doing a piece, and it seems like it was off consistently about 1/16" to 1/8" front to back, but right on the money left to right with maybe a bit of variance. This was about a 35" long piece. Now, that being said I am laminating these prints, and I am half wondering if the barcode markings are "curling" when the laser reads over them and that is causing my misalignment issue front to back. I am just looking for some input here as to how to better set myself up for success with contour cutting. When cutting laminated pieces, do you recommend rolling the vinyl up and leaving it over night to fight against the curling at the edges? Should I be recalibrating the cutter daily? Do you prefer the barcode scanner, or using the ARMS scanner? I am pretty confident I will get this all figured out, just takes some time and patience. Leave your input, if it doesn't help me, it may help some others in the future. Thanks!

Ok I just got a titan 2 after owning a vinyl express a long time ago. Been out the game about 6 years. On my old machine I could load vinyl and hit enter and it would size my vinyl so I knew what size media I had to work with. Does the titan do this or am I missing something. So far I just load it and guess lol

Hello US Cutter friends! I'm in need of a bit of help with my new TITAN 15" cutter. I'm using cutter software of my own sourcing, as I need to command the cutter in a very simple but particular ways to accomplish my cuts (basically just giving the machine HPGL code), but in order to do so I need to know the COM, TCP/IP, and which PORT to use for my new TITAN 15" cutter. Can any of you help me? Thank you for any help you can provide. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have. Cheers, -FF