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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/02/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Just got off the phone with them and they are sending a new MB out. Thank you for your help!
  2. 2 points
    I've not been doing a whole lot of vinyl as other demands have taken my time and energies. But, I did do this custom mirror for our son and his girlfriend. They moved to Ohio and bought a house a couple years ago. On one of our trips we toured the Ohio State Supreme Court building. A really fine piece of 1930's art deco architecture and a lot to see inside, and it is open to visit! On the top floor is the law library. On the ends of the shelving were the index signs for that row. I really liked the "Ohio" that was used in the sign. So I asked if I could do a mirror for the young one's in a sort of art deco style for them. They are trying to keep to a mid-century modern style in the house so they jumped on it. My results: Late edit. Should have added that it is reverse etched and painted. As it turned out, it really didn't need the reversing!
  3. 2 points
    A trick that I would do for one of the local volleyball clubs, they were applying 651 to plastic water jugs, the type that is shiny and mildly textured. What seemed to help get a more last adhesion was to hit it with a hair blow dryer for a little bit, just to warm up the adhesive a bit. I noticed it stuck a little better through their washing and rinsing.
  4. 2 points
    I blast with aluminum oxide. It's a harder material and will last longer then glass bead or walnut. Take note though, it can damage thin pieces of metal. However, for cups you shouldn't have a problem. As for grit, that is personal preference really. The courser the grit the more "textured" the metal will be. I forget what I have but I think it's like 120. As for vinyl to use, I just use scrap Green Star or Oracle 651. So long as you're not trying to do fine detail work, generic vinyl has worked well enough. My problem is cutting through the powder coat can take awhile and I often blast through the vinyl. Granted this is self applied powder, seems like I recall stuff on the cups from the store was easier to cut through.
  5. 1 point
    Get the profiles you need using a computer that allows an internet download, and then just transfer it over to the cutting computer using a thumb drive (USB stick).
  6. 1 point
    You could try shrink wrap from coastal, or any place that sells sublimation supplies, and a convection oven. That's what I use for the tumblers that are all over the internet
  7. 1 point
    PYD Life on amazon, they seem like they will be perfect little mugs for camping. Do you have a favorite place you buy your cactus wraps? i've been looking at them, looks like that is the direction i need to head for these, wonder if i can find small enough ones because these mugs are pretty short. thanks for your help.
  8. 1 point
    Ahhhhhh, a crafty newbie! Welcome. If you have cleaned your surface well with rubbing (70% isopropyl) alcohol but your vinyl is still not sticking, try leaving the transfer tape on the vinyl for a bit of time after applying it onto the surface. Alternatively, you might try a product called RapidTac2. I use it on windows when installing decals, it cuts any ammonia residue from spray cleaners like windex.
  9. 1 point
    I use cactus wraps in the oven, Heat is always even. Where is you find the enameled mugs coated for sublimation?