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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Ah! My LP is like that. I put a piece of blue painters tape on the "Only bad things will happen if you put the pinch roller there" area.
  2. 2 points
    Keep in mind everyone on this USER FORUM are volunteering to be here including the Mods - just users with lots of real world experience and not employees. Most of us have been here thru employee changes every few years (usually 2-3) Redmond/seattle is in the middle of microsoft, att, boeing, amazon etc - so employees get a little seat time and move up to bigger companies regularly from our observation. none of us have a job to protect or a vested interest - just a love for what we do and helping others.
  3. 2 points
    If it's ripping the backing paper I would guess you are cutting too deep. Follow Mz Skeeter's instructions for setting the blade depth, posted a few hundred times here, then if you're still having issues it's likely a process problem.
  4. 2 points
    No, but it doesn't have a specific area to keep the roller out of and it's right in the middle where you would think would be a good spot for a roller. Either do not use the middle roller, or be sure it is actually over the grit roller and not in the "dead zone".
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    Good luck? I hope you don't tear up your cutter. We can only give you valuable information from years of being on this forum. Years of what has worked, you can see the postings, if you take the time to read. I have been on here since 2008 as well as many other old timers, We have read almost every post. We know what others have experienced and what has worked. They have posted it.
  7. 2 points
    the procut 1351 is hardly a pro cutter - it is a Refine which is the bottom of the barrel plotter - personally if I was looking for accurate cuts on tint I would look hard for a graphtec or roland with a servo motor. the plotter is not a good place to pinch pennies since it is the heart of your operation
  8. 1 point
    The solenoid doesn't control how deep the cut is, it controls the pressure applied to the blade. The length of blade sticking out of the blade holder controls how deep the cut is.
  9. 1 point
    Send it back. Magnet material is a bitch to cut with these vinyl slicing & dicing machines. Not recommended. At all.
  10. 1 point
    Most people here use the UScutters, or for higher end cutters the Graphtecs and Rolands. Some buy the Titans as they are the middle ground cutters. I can't think of anyone here that has one. What ever you get buy the best that you can afford. The cutter is your main tool to reply on. You may find some good deals on Ebay, as well as Craigslist, but like mentioned before the MH cutters are the bottom of the barrel. MH are not even for cutting tint. Also you will need a tint blade. But here is the UScutter buying guide. You never stated what your budget is for buying. https://www.uscutter.com/index/page/static/subpage/buying_guides_new
  11. 1 point
    It cuts the same design 2 or 3 times more, just like it did the 1st time. you choose the number of passes in your cutting software. Each pass will cut deeper. But like stated above. I would never run 30 mil magnet thru my Graphtec and I have a heavy duty FC unit. Good luck with your project.
  12. 1 point
    When there's a heavy drag, tracking gets to be more tricky. If i have to do layers - like reflective on vinyl because I want to be able to peel it the reflective off easily, I always do multiple passes - the force is lighter so there's less drag on the material when it's moving, less chance for the tracking to go askew. And do you have rollers on the part that's being cut, as well as the 'outside material' because once there is definitive cut through your material, only the part that being pinched by roller will want to jog back and forth, there by adding to drag. If you were trying to do with paper, the paper would bunch. That's why machines like the Cricut need to have 'carrier' sheets that have a light adhesive - it keeps everything moving as a single piece, even though it's cut so stuff doesn't bunch or get caught. You're basically cutting something that's 12x thicker than 651 vinyl, which is done in a single pass. I wouldn't even attempt to do a 30mil anything in a single pass.
  13. 1 point
    It would be remiss, but I suspect Graphtec used a different software designer for the GS vs GPS (which is a re-branded Flexi, as Skeeter stated). Firing up both software and you can tell right off the bat that GS is super basic compared to GPS, so I'm not at all surprised that it doesn't have the bells or whistles to make life easier for users. I would definitely put that on a wishlist.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    I'd be afraid the drag would just torture my machines.
  16. 1 point
    trying to cut the very thick material in one pass causes more drag than if done in multiple passes - that causes slippage. I too never subjected any of my plotters to cutting 30 mil magnets - for rectangles I used straight edge and a corner rounding tool.