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You are correct about Dianna Johanna Valeasquez selling her work on many different sites and not just shutterstock -

Talking with my cousin this morning, she bought the jpg only from a site called "canva". She never got it from shutterstock. She even sent me the email of the receipt showing that she paid for the image in jpg format. I'm sorry if I got a little hostile, but being in the screen printing business for over a decade, I know these laws and how they work. I wasn't trying to skirt copyrights/trademarks, I was simply asking for recommendations on how to make this image cut ready. I fully understand where skeeter is coming from, but I felt like i was being lectured. I will make sure moving forward that I will clearly state that any image I post is owned by me or that i have paid for it. Wildgoose, I also have had issues with Harley Davidson, their legal team is very tough to deal with, but it got resolved in the end and we were able to come to an understanding.

So this pic shows the cut file is about 28 inches from what I see. I don't know if that a stray node or what but it's suspect.

Sorry Kronick she is right on the money as far as the forum stance. I'm going to leave it up simply as a reminder to others that the forum holds no illusions about the copyright laws. It is against forum rules to post copyright protected content. It is NOT necessarily against the rules to discuss the topic however so: To answer your actual question in a hypothetical; that particular design should you get access to the vector version (Shutterstock sells several options many of which are not vector format so it's quite possible that the one she purchased was just a jpg) it will be a real mess to try and cut with vinyl. At least that would be the case should you attempt to include all the highlights and shadows. Once in possession of the actual vector file you should be able to pull it apart and sort out all the elements that aren't going to be compatible. Due to the nature of that design an auto trace in any program will result in a big mess as you sound like you have found. Often the contributors to Shutterstock design specifically in ways that make auto trace impractical in order to preserve their potential revenue streams. We see a lot of folks come through who are wanting to copy protected work illegally and the forum is particularly protective of this because many of us are artists in our own right. The bottom line is that the forum can't and won't help out with things that might cause liability to fall on the people who fund this site. We kind of like it here and want them to keep it going so we act as watchdogs so to speak. If you feel offended by the way you were responded to just realize that seeing literally hundreds of different posts, most of them make similar claims that they have the license etc... but like she pointed out if that is the case then there would be no need to trace it so it naturally raises suspicion. My recommendation is to let it roll off your shoulders, move on and refrain from the subject in the future.

clearly we want to help you, trust me - the bold shouty caps will not help your cause. Sign Blazer may not have the listing for a Titan, but there is a high probability that there is a listed cutter that will work - you need to be patient and try them. Like Mz Skeeter said, some Titan users are using the Copam 2500 listing, my LaserPoint uses the PCut. Just give it a try - it'll only cost you a little time, which is what this has costed the rest of us who have responded to try and help.

I think wrap classes are under $500 - I am sure 3m has someone doing them on the island from time to time - go for it. We have a member from Canada that started doing it just a few years ago and now travels all over the country installing wraps on buses, trains. buildings. cars. etc - 2 years ago he took 3rd in all of Canada for 3m wrap master competition - You can do this. a lot of people overlook prep time and liability when they thing about doing wraps. good training and good insurance is a great idea

even the bar and shield is fiercely protected by HD - knew someone that had words that didn't even begin to sound like there name in the bar and shield learn that one. The most famous one on our forum was the person asked to decal a race car - a bumper sticker sized protected artwork brought a $15,000 suit - it was all a set up by one of the trolls hired by companies. some battles are not worth the fighting

Ahhhh, the 'stray node' gremlin -- that'll mess things up every time. Goose, you have eyes like a hawk.

and that just about covers that - good response by goose - Skeeter was just informing not lecturing. Don't be discouraged as it is part of the learning about the business.

I have Vinyl Master Demo, and the Titan 3 comes up at as 28" machine. Just like they advertise them. There is a Titan 3 28" and a Titan 3 28" Plus. TITAN 3 Vinyl Cutter Specifications MODEL 28" TITAN 3 53" TITAN 3 68" TITAN 3 Maximum Media Width 28" 53" 68" Maximum Cut Width 24" 50" 65" Dimensions 38" x 13" x 17" 63" x 13" x 15 3/4" 79 1/2" x 14" x 20" G.W./ N.W. 59.5 lbs/ 55.1 lbs 83.7 lbs/ 77.1 lbs 114.6 lbs/ 103.6 lbs

I posted this once before and OP never replied. Did she ever move her vinyl over to the right hand side of the cutter? That cutter has a max cutting width of 24" . And according to this post, that cutting width of 24" is starting 1" from the right side of the vinyl cutter. If the vinyl is too far to the left, it is tripping a sensor. This is the answer that was posted from before Posted October 9, 2018 Okay! After a brief chat with customer service... My problem wasn't the length of the vinyl, but the edge-to-edge width. I had my 24" vinyl centered in the cutter rather than pushed toward the right hand side, and it was tripping the sensor. I moved the vinyl about an inch from the right-hand side, and it solved my problem

I'm thinking it's a workspace vs. cutting/vinyl spooler etc. setting. I am always checking and double checking my work space size (design area), and the vinyl size on the cutter side settings. You can also try to start a new job, and do something simple like a square, or circle, or text.

So now that your cutter is communicating with the computer this error has to do with one of just a few things. I don't own a Titan so I don't know what options it has but you probably need to tell the cutting software what width you have available to cut. Your pics are fuzzy but appear to be saying 28 inches. Do you in fact have 30 inch vinyl loaded? if not this could be it. Measure your available space and by that I would suggest starting with the distance between the outer two pinch rollers. You can often cut past the rollers but just to help eliminate possible triggers use the distance between the roller or even a half inch less than that. Should be somewhere around 22 to 23 inches. Some cutters have the ability to tell the software how much space there is once you load the vinyl. I don't know that the Titan does nor do I know if the version of Vinyl Master you have is able to receive that data. You should be able to input it manually. If the above change doesn't help try rotating your design 90 deg. If your design happens to mysteriously be larger than your cutter can cut in one pass it may throw an error. In one picture it shows a weird empty triangle with a dimension of something like 27.960 inches which may be out of the cutting area of even a 30 inch machine depending on where you happen to have your zero position set. That makes me also ask did you reset your zero position? Do you know how to do that? Typically you manually run your cutter blade over so that it is just inside the Right side pick roller and feed enough vinyl through that it's at least an inch past the blade and then you will set that as the zero position. If somehow your cutter thinks half way across your material is zero it will only be working on the far half of your available space. Again some machines set the origin when new material is loaded but I kind of doubt the Titan does this. The other possibility is that your design software has a working art board or workspace or cutting board or whatever your want to call it that is larger than the vinyl you have. Theoretically if your design is small it shouldn't matter but if all the other things fail attempt to make a change there so that your cutting are is well inside of what you have until you can get going and get past this first learning curve hurdle. I am pretty sure Sure Cuts a Little only cuts what fits on your cutting board and you would have to change the size of it to the available size of your cutting area. When I had SCALP (Sure Cuts a Lot Pro) I used this fact to tile jobs that were too big by sliding my design half off the cutting mat and it would only cut what was on the mat. (that's totally beside the point, and I didn't like SCALP) If none of these things helpI think your need to spend about 12 hours CAREFULLY watching both the VinylMaster and Titan help videos. I am sure it is some silly little thing that is causing you the issue. When you do figure it out, which you will sooner or later, please be sure to post the fix for the next poor soul to find quicker than you have been able to.

Here, this should work and minimize blade lifts. You'll have to view the file in outline mode, in "normal" mode it looks kind of weird. There are 5 rows of hexagons and an extra row of vertical lines. You can tile the image and get more rows of hexagons then just delete the last row of vertical lines before cutting. Honeycomb.svg

Oh for heck sake. Let's not further confuse this person.

I'm coming in late to this party, but in all cases of cutters having some sort of glitch with something (communication, design parsing, drivers, etc) and you want to verify if the issue is with the hardware or software, the most obvious way to troubleshoot without investing a lot of time (nor spending any money) is to download and install SignBlazerElements and check the functionality of your system using this program. http://www.uscuttersupport.com/downloads/Software/SignBlazer/signblazer_setup.exe

Very cool --- but there's one thing that bugs me. See the pawpad on the middle toe. You've got an extra node in there that causes the rounded smooth portion to have a jag on the left side. Yeah, I have OCD that causes me to notice minor stuff like that. I think you can raise the speed back to the max. The LPIII should not choke on it.