rlvied

A couple of etchings I made for a fireman friend

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Here are a couple of etchings I made on 1/4 glass for a friend that is a fireman, if anyone wants the vectors let me know. The maltese was done  on two pieces of glass and edge lit with a white & green leds

attachment=90674:fire truck.jpg]post-6565-0-75603700-1356987788_thumb.jppost-6565-0-21485700-1356987816_thumb.jppost-6565-0-93263100-1356988068_thumb.jp

post-6565-0-91056300-1356987753_thumb.jp

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Nice . How do you get the 2D effects in the 1rst 2 ?? 2 stencils ?

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For the two stage effect you have to pull the areas that you want the deepest and blast them first. then when you have them where you like it you pull the other areas and blast them. Hope I didn't confuse anyone with the way I explained this.

Bob

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So, did you use vinyl for your stencil?  Seems like when I use vinyl and try to get deep like that the vinyl starts getting torn up

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You using a regular blast cabinet or a pencil eraser ?

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both, the blast cabinet seems to tear it up quicker.  The air erasure doesn't seem to do much much "scratch the surface".  Maybe I just need to be more patient with the air erasure but it is such a pain in the ass refilling that thing every 20 seconds.

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I will have to try that . I am critical on what i make as far as light spots . Looks like the OP stayed away from the edges alot . People who don't make this probably don't notice it much if at all . I blast at 30 psi & seems to be the optimum pressure IMO ( Horrible Freight $200 cabinet :) . Rayzist Photomask has been at every sign show that I have attended ... they carve 1/2 " into glass

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Very cool.... Me gusta...

 

Would you be willing to give us a brief rundown on the edge lighting method and leds used? 

 

Thanks in advance.

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I like to use paint mask for my resist, I find that it seems to last longer when blasting, I have 2 HF  cabinet and also a larger one I made myself for larger pieces. For my media I mainly use 180 ao. The smaller cab I use 220 mainly for shadowing effect. I do have 80 grit but I find that it cuts real fast even at 30 psi and doesn't allow as much control for doing alot of detail work, I do use it for doing a general frost on larger pieces. On the 2 stage I usually start at about 30psi the for doing the detail areas I lower my pressure to about 20psi, It will cut slower but it give me more time to work in an area for different shadeing without tearing up my paint mask. I also use sr3000  5 mill from raysist as I can get really fine detail without going blind trying to weed it. Not that my cutter would cut it that small anyway.

Bob 

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post-6565-0-24850900-1357136696_thumb.jpFor the edge lights you can find them on ebay or here http://azglassclasses.com/portal/store-2/#!/~/category/id=485802&offset=0&sort=normal The lights are small leds that you can put around the glass to light the blasted areas, you really need to use 1/4" or thicker glass to get the best results. this one is on 1/2" glass that is edge lit  

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engine turned out great also.  I made a uv box with and old scanner and uv lights from a nail dryer but haven't had time to try it out - got busy with printing during election time and it just got sidelined.  after watching ikonics and rayzist at the shows I was very intrigued this the product and like you said the fine detail is such a pain to weed even with the graphtec that can cut it fine - it is getting harder to see it LOL

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