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Well I had to google search what Sticky Flock was I had no idea.... But now I know.. If you use the search feature on the forum here it gives a few suggestions on how to set it up.. Looks like a little more blade exposed and running 2 passes......

I have a MH871 and love it, it is a bit loud but it sits in the corner of my office and if you are chatting you almost forget it is even running. The Mylar i cut is from a place called Bren they sell cutters and stencil material by the roll. it comes with a backing paper. I set mine to cut 2 or 3 passes and really slow speed. If i remember to adjust the blade it cuts perfect. lol but over all it does a wonderful job.

Your blade should be out a little more than you use for any other vinyl, also you may have to make two passes. Start with something small so that you don't waste your sticky flock . Also remember that you will probably not see that is cutting or not. Hope this helps, I don't know anything about your cutters settings so some one else may have to chime in on that. Mike

Where in Sign Blazer do you have that option of "two passes" ??

If you don't want to play with your settings... just select number of passes as two. The cutter will cut it twice going over the same path.

As for blade 60* and slow down your speed you'll get a smoother cut. I dip my blades in DuPont Dry Film Teflon and it help allot with Scotchcal. Also if you don't want to play with pressure just do two passes. You'll also need to seal the edge... I always hand painted a black outline and drop shadow on Firetrucks. This sealed the edge and kept the classic look. You could do the same by cutting a mask and using 1shot and some patents. If you don't feel up to that at least get a seal pen. You can get reflective by the foot from H&H Sign Supply http://www.hhsignsupply.com . I've not had issue doing a lite mist of water with a drop or two of soap when applying reflective... you do want a sleeve or to cover the graphic with the waxy side of the carrier so you don't mar the surface while working it.

I would also look at taking the panels now. You will have a hard time cleaning and applying the vinyl trying to apply enough pressure when there is no support behind it and working from a ladder. As far as sealing the edges all I do is make a few quick passes with my heat gun.

Path and combine just "groups" it like one piece but doent treat it like one solid line. I am trying to trace a bumper and i made it in multiple passes. now i want to fill it in with a color but i get all kind of unknown geometry. i ended up removing all the details (headlights and vents) then union worked.. then set the details on the layer on top. I guess there is no real easy way to do it since i drew the whole thing out already lol. thanks jay!

You are welcome. There is also a site called BREN that sells some heavy duty mask and stencil material but you pay for it a 24" x 50 yard roll of stencil material ran me like 200. they try to get you to buy their cutters but all you have to do is set the blade depth deeper hi down force and 2 or more passes.

I was having trouble with the font i traced cutting 2-3times and figured out in SBE that there was an outline in my image... Now the question is how do i get rid of this/avoid this before i bring it into SBE? the i was recreating is kinda unique and i couldnt find it so i used the "draw bezier" tool in inkscape to outline the font. After,i went to the object tool bar, i used the "fill and stroke" tool bar to fill in the text. everything looked perfect but then in SBE i sent it to cut and it was making 2-3 passes and cutting the letters out of the paper.... i somehow figured out it was an extra ouline? around the words so i have to select and delete each line individual. what a hassle. I also tried the weld tool in SBE and didnt have any effect..... is the problem in inkscape like i suspect or is it when it gets transfered to SBE that this happens? im saving it as an esp. file. Thanks in advance -Benny

Depends on what substrate you are blasting on and how deep you wish to blast, but most sign vinyl will work for basic sandblasting. Some basic points to keep in mind are to start with a clean substrate, both vinyl and substrate should be at room temperature, keep nozzle 3 - 4 inches from vinyl, do not stay in one spot long enough to allow heat to build up (desired depth should be achieved with several passes over the blast area), blast at a 90 degree angle to keep from lifting the stencil edge and if using a pressure pot about 30 psi. There are definite advantages to using sandblast vinyl for many projects, but for the basics sign vinyl will do just fine.

From what i read, the specs on the CE5000 are underrated for pressure. Alot of the lower machines, such as my LP24- there is not a snowballs chance it could not only withstand cutting at all 400grams constantly, but deliver that pressure accurately and consistantly.... There are a bunch of folks that have no issues cutting sandblast and magnet stock on the graphtec cutter- I do know with its accuracy you could easily run the cutter at multiple passes to compensate for the pressure if the material demanded it. IMHO 10mils is pretty thick... I mean you can run items like card stock through it on a carrier sheet with no issues whatsoever.

I made this for a neighbor who owns a recycling company and needed to replace his stencils for painting on dumpsters. I cut it out on my laserpoint. I slowed down (about 20) the cut and increased the pressure (about 140). I did only run one pass then had to cut out by hand the letters. I might try two passes next time and see if it would be close to cutting through.

UPDATE: I did as Rich suggested and did the duplicate graphic on top one another. I left the blade pressure at what I normally cut my Oracal 651 at. It seemed to have enough pressure with two passes to cut through the material and adhesive. Does anyone have any advice on how I could smooth out the cut path though? or is this just going to be something that will always happen due to the thickness of the material? It cuts the design well, it's just the edges that it creates on the graphic feels rough and I know when I go to put on the app tape, I'll see the small air gaps that the rough edge will be leave.

Your welcome, Did you look around in Signblazer, to see if Passes option is there? Maybe someone using Signblazer would know.

I notice you have Flexi software. I have Flexistarter 8.5 and in the default job properties it has PASSES. I have not tried it, but I am assuming by changing this, it is telling the cutter to cut the order again, for how many times you change it to. So actually it would not go back to origin, just cut the order again. You could try it on a piece of scrap. Other cutting software may have that option also.

Have you tried a little extra blade as well? I found with my 3M reflective white, I cut just fine using about 1.5x the pressure and a smidge more blade. My LP is NOT the most accurate machine on the planet either but on a small graphic you should be ok doing at a minimum 2 passes. I would give it a whack- what have you got to loose for the experience? A couple feet of vinyl?

try cutting in a couple of passes

OK i was given an MH871 from work. They got a new better one and i got to take this one. When i cut, no matter at what pressure, the blades skims the surface and slightly cuts the vinyl on passes(when it should be moving to the next cut spot, not actually cutting.) i'm leaning toward getting a new blade carriage but thought i would see if anyone had experienced this other than me. Thanks in advance for any help.

Welcome... No I didn't say that, I just copied the others I'm not sure any cutter can cut magnetic sheets or rolls? I would like to but they're awfully thick. I have heard someone cut them in several passes of the blade though. Maybe someone else can add some wisdom?

For one NUK, I disagree completely. As far as you correcting my spelling... I probably make more in a week than you do in a year. So don't try to down me period. I didn't ask for your grammar corrections and your not my fifth grade teacher. I'm from the south in the U.S. if you don't like my pronouning of words... then don't read it. I've told my view's.. (But these are MY views, not yours) So when and if (which I doubt) this new reform passes, don't say I told you so is all. My 2 cents

That tape roller is a great idea. I never thought of PVC, mostly because I'm a wood workin type person. Now I have another option. Probably will depend on what mood I'm in at any particular moment or how I figure out the roll change on the roller... And 10 sizes of tape on-hand??? I suppose this is not a hobby for you? I did some searching earlier and found all the sizes of tape. I'll probably order a roll of 16 inch. Along with my 12 inch, there would be enough overlap on the 24" vinyl in two passes. I somehow think using 24" tape might be more difficult to work with.

I like that idea of laying it down face up, even with the tape I never thought of that. But that wouldn't work for the stiff sign material. Maybe half the problem solved and will have to try it. The idea of using a large roll to flatten the tape as it goes sounds good too. That should also work great. 'Steam roller' type process. But a tube from an empty vinyl roll? haven't used that much yet I think I will have to get larger tape also. The 12" would only cover with 3 passes and that's a big waste of tape. Luckily I had some used tape laying around that I cut to strip down the middle where the two 12 inch sections didn't meet. Thanks for the great replies. So I'll have to make a roll holder just to try it. Have to try the tape face up and definitely try using a roller over the tape as it lays down. Then I'll have to see what size larger rolls the tape comes in. 24 inch tape seems like it would be awfully difficult to work with? Maybe two section of something like 14" Time to get an order together as I also want to try some heat transfer soon...

Not sure what cutter or program your using but in the cut window there is a setting for how many passes you want the cutter to make I think it's under the advanced tab MM64

The saw I have is the hitachi C10FCE2. I got it on sale for $99 from amazon. It cuts down vinyl just fine; the sihl 3988 24"x65' is about the max I can cut with it I tried to cut my roll of Oraguard 210 36"x150' and it did cut, but I had to make a few passes rotating it inbetween. The cut came out ok, but not as smooth as a single pass cut. This is the one I'm looking at getting to replace the hitachi. ryobi is hit or miss with a lot of their tools; make sure to check up on the reviews and warranty. Also, some home depot's will let you use a harbor freight 20% off coupon; a local one near me did when I bought my ridgid drill press. If they won't accept that, go to the post office and get a change of address packet. It has a 10% off lowe's coupon that home depot will accept.