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Try placing your pinch rollers just a smidgen closer to the center - like maybe about 1.5" from the edge, equally spaced on the left and right side. Do worry about pinch roller marks, they will come out. Is your vinyl completely flat, or is there some natural bowing in it?

No mention what type of vinyl. Never had that issue with any Graphtec. I put my pinch rollers about 1.5" in from vinyl edge on each side. The roller marks don't hurt a thing. I prefeed my vinyl from the roll for each order. My vinyl lays flat. I use Oracal vinyl.

Check your junk email. Value cutters do have roller marks. They come out of the vinyl when you apply the decal. You go messing with that pinch roller tension, you can create more problems.

Sorry I didn't get back to my post. I thought I had it set up that when someone answered it would come to my email but I guess I didn't have it set correctly so I thought no one had answered. Sorry for my confusion. I did get it solved by watching some USCutter videos. I do have roller marks but I'm trying to adjust them now. Thank you to each and everyone of you who took the time to read and/or answer.

Are you pre feeding the sheet so there is roller marks to follow when cutting? That helps to follow the pinch roller marks. I also measure the pinch rollers an exact distance from the vinyl edge. Your pinch rollers also can be adjusted down with levers on the back, (more tension) Have you tried that?

first thing I get from the picture is I do not see roller marks on the vinyl from that roller - why? appears to not be tight enough Having not been in the conversation up till now I also have to ask - How did you set your blade exposure - extra blade is extra drag - but the roller thing is my primary concern

I did adjust the pinch rollers. I backed them all the way out, marked the thumb nuts, then adjusted them all the same number of turns. The nut is about halfway down on the screw and I am getting roller marks. It's not as defined as they were on Oracal 751/951 where the texture of the roller was really evident but I figured that was because the Avery SW900 is thicker and already has its own texture.

have you messed with the pressure rollers from the way it was shipped? we have seen several people reduce pressure trying to eliminate the roller marks that is totally normal - that and too much blade exposure causing drag causes drift.

Using the SEARCH function ("roller marks" boolean search, with the quotes) for this Forum would reveal this topic has been covered over and over here. By the way, after cutting, it is NOT recommended to leave vinyl without weeding for very long. The vinyl self-heals and makes weeding difficult later. Just a heads-up.

When I cut my vinyl it leaves roller marks behind. I have tried to adjust the arms but I still get them. Even after a day there are still marks left behind. Any ideas that might help eliminate them?

Roller marks don't hurt a thing, the marking is caused by the grit roller on the bottom of the wax paper backing.. They come out when you apply the vinyl in most cases. You start creating other problems when you go adjusting the pinch rollers.

Ok so I got the speed set to 24 and the force to 120. The blade adjustment is now way better. I still have slight jagged lines but barely noticeable. Also I have roller marks in the vinyl so an adjustment is definitely needed there. Thanks

Start with the vinyl straight in the throat. Put your hand in the roll and hold the roll tight, when putting down the pinch rollers. Make sure the pinch rollers are over the grit rollers. Put the pinch rollers equal distance from the vinyl edge. About 1-1.5 inches. Pinch roller marks don't hurt anything. Pre feed your vinyl and make sure it is tracking straight. Use the arrow buttons on your cutter. Never be pulling from the vinyl roll while cutting. Make sure you have your blade depth set correctly. Too much blade exposed can force the vinyl, while it is feeding. This is correct way to set your blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and in your hand, firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.

Man that really works. I think I can minimize the roller marks by running my 40" material with 2 pinch rollers on the edge ends of the material instead of running 3 rollers. Do you think that will be a problem consider that 40" is quite wide?

Ok, I don't know anything about Phototex, but with regular sign vinyl, the pinch roller marks disappear when you take the wax paper backing off and apply the vinyl to a surface.

Ah I didn't know the roller marks come out. I also didn't think that the first pinch roller was supposed to move, because apparently all this time since I bought my vinyl cutter the pinch roller was stuck over this screw. The screw is in the image below This put the pinch roller not over top of the metal roller. I just had to basically hammer-fist the pinch roller sideways off of the screw so now I can actually use my first roller lol. I'll try with all three rollers now and makes sure that none of the vinyl is lifted too high.

If the middle pinch roller helps to keep the vinyl down in the middle, then you should use it. Grit roller marks come out when you apply the vinyl. The marks are on the backing. So the marks should not even hurt anything.

Move the vinyl over to the left, You have that whole area of grit roller on the right that you can use. I usually put them about 1 inch in from the side of the vinyl. Pinch roller marks are not going to hurt anything. Your just riding the edge of the vinyl. That right pinch roller can move to the left several inches. Have the carriage head at the right lower corner of the vinyl. That is where it needs to be , when you lower the LOAD MEDIA push rollers and push ENTER. It should not move at all to the right when you push ENTER.

As I stated before, put the pinch rollers about an inch in from the edge of the vinyl. The roller marks will not hurt the vinyl. I even use a tape measure sometimes, Measure side of roller out to the vinyl edge. Why does the vinyl look so rippled up in front and not laying flat?

What is shifted over? If your referring to the vinyl. Never be pulling from the vinyl roll while cutting. Make sure you have the blade depth set correctly by my instructions which is posted hundreds of times on this forum. Run the cutter slow until you learn it. Always prefeed the vinyl back and forth, and leave the vinyl slack behind the machine, enough to do the order. Make sure the pinch rollers are an equal distance from the vinyl edge. The pinch roller marks will not hurt the vinyl. You purchased a bottom of the barrel cutter, which we tell buyers not to buy, many known problems with it. An SC2 would have been a much better vinyl cutter.

I also make sure that my pinch rollers are the exact same distance from the edge of the vinyl. Even use a tape measure if you have to. I put my pinch rollers about 1 1/4" from edge. Roller marks will not hurt, they come out when you apply. Graphtecs have a prefeed feature on them, The roller marks help with the tracking. Try prefeeding your vinyl and back.

I would be looking at the grit roller marks that cutter makes on tint also.

Is this a new vinyl cutter? on what operating system? Which cutting software? Have you ever ran a vinyl cutter before? First start with setting your blade depth correctly. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Do not adjust the pinch rollers, On vinyl, those grit roller marks will go away when vinyl is installed. Never be pulling vinyl from a roll while cutting, Always have enough slack in the vinyl to do the entire order. . This MH cutter is a cutter that we steer buyers away from. It is a bottom of the barrel cutter, with many know problems, Tracking, memory, and static. Any cutter above it would have been better.

I have never owned any other type of vinyl plotter. This is my first unit, I chose big because that's where the money is. I run a small media business, this unit allows us to take a first step into a physical material for advertising and such since we have established a digital footprint of sales now. As a full time gig, I work in CAD/Production at a large format carton/packaging manufacturing company. I have operated many many different kinds and sizes of cutters and printers and this is my first vinyl unit, the printing industry and diecutting work for the past decade have helped me understand greatly the principles of what I need to do so I have an edge over a normal "newbie" when I looked at all the various levels of plotters available. My thoughts on this are: Compared to any other unit near its price, its almost silly to buy anything else. If youre willing to put up $400 already, It would be most wise to save up a bit more and get this unit if youre looking to really start work or expand your current status. I find it really hard to argue this unit if youre serious enough to need 24" or more width and want to cut nearly any vinyl materials, this is the one to get. Its not a roland, but it has many of the major features you want. Its not as quiet as a graphtec, but youre probably not going to run this unit 6-12 hours a day. The ARMS option alone is worth the weight. Features vs price vs the "what do you really need to do with the cutter".. NO BRAINER. I would bet many pros would review this and say it is a great starter plotter. I got mine through the USCUTTER ebay store for slightly less than the websites price, but most important was the free shipping. Saved 50-60 bucks through ebay and it was fast. I took the time to go to a local sign shop and see the high end units and the operators work their stuff. There is a clear difference in quality of the units parts between the LP3 and a Graphtec or Roland. Around a 40 pound weight difference will tell you that there is a metal frame and metal mounts for the internal parts, and not plastic injection molded brackets that hold the main driving components. All of this saves money for everyone who doesnt need a unit that will run 8 hours a day though... but it reduces how long the unit will last. For a small business running a couple jobs a day, it is perfect It almost seems as if some parts are used with other cutters or models, the bottom has a 80-120mm fan mount but no fan. There is a ruler on the front and back of the unit which is nice for ensuring straight tracking for long jobs. With this plotter I would only use 2 rollers for any roll you put in it. Cutting anything anytime involves registration and without the even tension on the nip/pinch rollers and the media, it will not cut correct, the rollers are perfect out of the box and try to keep them 1" from the edges of the media. I did double check these wheels and tensions myself by undoing them. A method used to adjust the wheels for printing presses and die cutters is to keep the pressure off the wheels and slowly lower the wheel (raise pressure} until they only start spinning when the paper/media is inbetween them, then fine tune the tracking from there with 1/16ths turns of the tension wheels. Similar to blade height theory of only sticking out enough to cut the vinyl and not the backing.. The wheel should only spin if the media is underneath it to reduce wear on the bearings and wheels, especially since these have grit rollers and not smooth rollers or belts. No reason to be jamming these wheels down. Should last nearly a life time if they are always on top of vinyl or something and not touching bare grit. By using this technique I still retain straight tracking and have greatly reduced the grit roller marks. Not worth adjusting these per vinyls like HTV or Decals unless really needed.. The blade holder this thing came with was honestly subpar with the unit. I bought a cheap roland knockoff, with no locknut, on ebay for several dollars and it works WAY BETTER. The mount of the unit for the blade holder is quite rigid for a plastic design. From what ive seen this is probably one of the better designs for this, dont see it snapping anytime soon. Setting proper blade height is a must for any cutting of anything. I do not recommend using any type of oil anywhere on this machine, not even any bit holder. Oil like wd40 attracts a lot of dust and is highly frowned upon when using around expensive equipment. Vinyl makes dust and that turns into a grime. Okay for the garage stuff, but i would stick to dry lubes like graphite, teflon or silicone. I dont own any WD40. Your parts can last forever if you do the right maintenance. I can ensure you your blade holder will work better and last longer with a teflon or silicone vs wd40/oil. These kind of bearings are sealed so we are only lubing up everything else for smooth works and non sticks. Spray parts with lube, then blow them off. The unit cuts a diamond (rotated square] inside a square for its test cut. Speed is from 100-800, increments are in 100s. Its more like 1-8. Pressure,force,wedge.... is 1-500 for a total of 800g of downforce. I nearly destroyed the cutting strip right away, put a small dent in it on far right side. Got away with lifting up the strip and rotated it so the bad side is on the far left instead of far right since I cant cut down there anyways. You can hear it slam down at 400. The pen tool is needed to calibrate the laser. It works great and needs only around 50g of force to use. I bought a cheap sharpie attachment on ebay for couple bucks and its nice to use for kids school projects. The ARMS system worked flawless my first try. I do not use it at the moment but will eventually incorporate printed materials to cut once we get better with the plotting and different materials. I cut 50 3"x4" logos on 24" matte white oracal 751 all at once. Newbie mistake only because I was unprepared on how to handle the media afterwards. The LP3 cut all 50 at once on the lowest speed of 100, i did not time the job but it took quite a while. The cutter was hot and could smell the unit working its butt off, but it is fine of course. I would consider this a high detail graphic because there are around 60 pieces of each decal left after weeding. It isnt quiet, but its not loud, like a regular printer. The top has a nice tray to hold tools and stuff. I use an xacto knife for weeding and whatever and leave that up there and so far not many scratches in the paint. The stand is good enough for the unit. It is thin metal, rollers are cheap but it all works and is thick enough to keep it sturdy and not shake a lot. Wheel locks were a nice touch. Media basket is what I use to cover the unit with when not using it, It is nothing special and says USCUTTER on it in white. Comes with an extra long USB cable and power cord for you. I have opted for wireless using bluetooth dongles so unit is not tethered to a PC. You could run it into a router like any other printer as well. Vinylmaster Cut v4 is good enough to work with. It will vectorize the image pretty good for you and give you room to make adjustments. Lots of limits but I prefer to do all the art and work in AI or Esko Artios. I use Esko at my main job. Its very similar to Adobe AI but it is more indepth in that I can send the files to my laser, waterjet, cnc tables, printing plate makers and Epsons. Since the drivers are already available and the unit is newer, the connection is has with most new software is plug and play, like a regular printer. Mac or PC doesnt matter. Using a virtual machine you can run whatever software you want on whatever operating system. Any questions ill try to answer. If you want pics I can take those quick. Advice for those looking to purchase: Read the manual. Learn to adjust blade. Thanks! Finch 4x3.vDoc

Don't worry about the roller marks. They will disappear after its applied. Do not mess with the roller pressure. You'll be looking for more trouble.