sluggo2u

I do a lot of small stenciling with Oramask 810. It's low tack and not the answer you're looking for but.........I have a workaround for small letters that might work for you. I simply cut a second copy of the stencil and apply the knockouts of the letters as a second operation. you will need to include some sort of registration marks to do it this way. So, basically, you have one stencil with the lettering weeded out (including the knockouts) and a second stencil with the letters weeded out and the knockouts left behind. Apply the first stencil then align the second and drop the knockouts in place.

Thanks Mark! I was looking at Octins and Stencils.

I did an image search and looked through all my stuff but am coming up empty. Thanks

Check your messages.

Have a sugar skull on my pc at home. I'll try to remember to send it to you later. I suffer from CRS so feel free to message me a reminder if I fail to remember.

I used some 631 to make a stencil for my wife to use when painting a bedroom at our house. Behr latex seemed to cover it and stick well. I can't say how it would hold up because I peeled it the second the paint flashed over. The paint stuck to the vinyl as it was removed.

Yes, the clear tape sux. I use the asterisk and cut away the ap tape from the top half of it to see through the ap tape.

I struggled a bit with shadow layers in Illustrator until I got a tip from Wildgoose. Offset path command under the path menu is your friend. Google it for a tutorial and play with it. Always convert your type to outlines as well. With your text selected click type, create outlines and the text will be converted to a shape. Be sure you have finished editing it though because you can no longer edit it like text. You would also do this prior to running the offset path command. You should also select the entire shape and unite it all together, especially when using cursive fonts. Like Goose said, I like to use two reg marks. If I were to do what you did above, I would have two reg marks (I like to use the asterisk shape in scalp) a different color, say red, and both the silver and black layer laid out just like they will look when completed. In Scalp, choose cut by color and turn on the red and black colors, cut them together on black vinyl, then do the same with red and silver on silver vinyl. Now you have reg marks on both colors and they will line up perfectly. Everybody does it a little different, I just though I'd give an example.

This? http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/14388-roll-vinyl-calculator/

Good advice. I have a Summa and cut tiny stuff almost exclusively. The problem when working that small always comes to weeding. Certain fonts, particularly cursive and asymmetrical serifs are not friendly when cut small. Even if you can cut them, there is not enough surface area on the insides of the letter to keep them in place. You can apply ap tape and weed them from the ap tape but there is still a limit to how small you can go. The CE-6000 will definitely cut smaller than you can weed.

I had a similar problem with mine. It had a bad solder joint where the wires connected inside the cutter head. Remove the cover from the cutter head and see if one of those wires is loose.

Nice stuff. I particularly like the crazy mofo.

It has very similar hardware and castings to the HPN hat press I bought recently. I'll say this about mine..............It needs a lot of re-engineering. It's very sloppy where it swivels and whoever welded it together was either coming of a three day crack binge or had no clue what the terms plumb, square and level mean.. But it was cheap and all I plan to do with it are t-shirt sleeves.

Indestructible rig right there. Worked on yotas for 32 years. About the only thing these ever need done is brakes and front knuckle seals. Good looking set of tubes.

You really only get one crack with it. It leaves behind a witness (using Epson with Cobra ink) that undoubtedly would contaminate anything else you tried to use it on.