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Yes found problem after decicded to change the head was encoder gave it a good clean all back and running again

There is a special wrap vinyl for vehicles. See: Fellers.

I have 6", 9, 12", 15", 18", 24, 30" of paper transfer tape.100 yd length. I only buy 50 yd rolls of vinyl in 15" 24" 30" In 24 colors. I only have 3 colors in 15" I only sell online. I purchase my tape at jra-signsupplies. Ebay most of the time. I purchase a 48" log and they will slit it up to 5 times free. Located in Michigan. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153452552342?var=453402809544 I have had some tape do that before. But I can usually unroll it several times, like 5 times. and then the tape gets better. The outside layers may dry out, but the inside is fine. Maybe , maybe not. depends on how old the tape is. I try to help when I can.

Looking at this photo, it appears that blade tip is extended out wayyyyyyy too far. (I can see it in the picture, which is not good!)

You would be amazed at how many businesses that I interact with, who do not have their own artwork for one reason or another. I often dread having to recreate someone else's logo because it seems like reinventing the wheel, but it's the same wheel without any improvements

The other option would be to analyze the design and figure out a way to break it into smaller pieces. Add in some registration marks to get it all lined back up and you're good to go.

Jimbo, you got a solution that was offered 15 years ago, which is a fine testament to the effectiveness of these Forums and its Search functionality. By the way, 'mobby' was one of the most-well-versed people regarding SignBlazer, as he was personally familiar with the developer (Jerry Bonham). All of that is water under the bridge, of course, but it's great to see people are still able to obtain "Help" on a program that's long since been abandoned in the marketplace.

DXF files are not really cutter friendly. They look like a constant line, but they are actually several line segments and are typically not joined. VM can't do a contour, because it doesn't see a shape to contour cut around. You will need to join all the segments in order to create a shape. I might be as simple as joining the 3 areas circled below or you might need to join every single little line segment. Some software has the ability to automatically join line segments that are close enough, although this can give some funky results some times. I believe Inkscape has this ability. If you can get the file as an eps, ai, or svg rather than a dxf that would be the easiest way to go.

Update! Since we're in Hawai'i, Graphtec recommended that we check with a local authorized repair shop rather than send the whole thing to continental US. We called up the recommended shop and after hearing of our issue asked, "when did you last replace the plunger?" They noted that those can stop working, preventing the blade from spinning/rotating. We ordered a new plunger from them and we're back in business! We finished out the 15mil synthetic job and are getting through the 10mil job as I write this. The old plunger has been marked and is still good enough for most of our paper jobs. I did let the boss know about the other blades you folks recommended. Thank you

Nice of you to get back here to report on the solution. Always appreciated to see mysteries solved. Great news that the motherboard itself was fine, and only this damaged ribbon cable connected to it was at fault. Astonishing how even the smallest 'dinger' can bring a very expensive and powerful machine to a halt.

Mahalo!!! AR Berkley is spot on! I envy your font knowledge

Yes, Vevor was there. honestly after playing with that 2008 laptop and trying to get it to do just anything anymore(slow)it’s not worth going back to signblazer. now that I made connection and don’t have a brick here I’m satisfied. now I just need to re learn things as well as learn this SCAL basics

All-n-1 and address info text is "Serpentine" Here's the hook (.eps) which needs to be attached to the flowing tail of 'g' at end of Towing. Now all you need is the font for Towing. It's ScriptinaPro. Yer welcome. The general rule is don't vectorize text. Find the right font(s) and re-create/re-type. hook.EPS

Sounds you are downloading to one location, and looking in a different location. Where exactly are you downloading to, and where exactly are you trying to open from?

Hello All, I found the issue. The issue is a change in CM5. This is going to have to be a change for our faculty to know in their syllabi for art students. The change in CM5 from CM4 is this. On CM4 in illustrator your art board could be say 24 x 24 and in the file you know to add 2" right and left with no artwork in that space to allow for the grit rollers (1” each side) and an extra inch for the registration marks. If you loaded the sheet into the cutter regardless of the poll size in CM4 it would just find the marks, and contour cut the file. In CM5 Apparently the art board is now being considered when sending the cut job. So, for the last 13 years I’ve always done 24” wide by x length. So, when I had this issue, I assumed it was an issue in CM5, which it is, and kind of I guess, isn’t. So I adjusted my art board to 22” wide by 32” tall. Sent the file to our Canon ImagrPrograf 4000s on a paper size of 24 x 32 so the printer understood the file. Then in illustrator I left the art board at 22”. The poll size on the cutter is 22.5”. When I sent the file, it allowed it to find the marks and cut. But WHY change that setting after 12+ years??? UGH!!. I think this is also why the cutting page was rotating 90° I think the software doesn't know what to do with margins like that and just rotates it to fit. which kind of makes sense. thanks all for the adivce, and options. Now if I can only find a 2.x firmware for my Graphtech FC8600-60 to update so the version 3 firmware will take. but that's a different issue. Thanks again all. Jeremy

Their (sp.) website has THIS image --->

Hi, I recently purchased an old Roland printer / cutter (CJ-500). I am unfortunately getting an error message that says 'PINCHROLL ERROR - LOST PINCHROLL' when I try to set up a sheet for cutting. I am not sure what to do or where to go from here. If anyone has any advice it would be very helpful. Thanks.

Thanks for posting your update.

Without knowing much about Roland machines, I can tell you that this error is related to some sensor within the circuitry that's failed. Think of it like a car that displays a CheckEngineLight --- it could be caused by any number of things within the sensor loops. Until you have the vehicle computer scanned to read the code which describes specifically what is wrong, you cannot troubleshoot. Your unit is throwing a 'code' that explains what is wrong. The internal computer has discovered that a pinchroller sensor isn't sending back a clear signal, and if I were in your shoes, that machine would be disassembled and the wiring from the pinchrollers to the motherboard checked for electrical continuity. That would be the first thing to investigate, certainly. By the way, a google search for CJ500 produces a Mahindra jeep, a classic!

Did all of you alignment grid look good when you ran that? I always spent more time on alignment than changing the heads

Just wanted to say HI and let all my friends on the forum that I am still around. I spent the past few years taking care of my wife so I had to put all my work on the back burner. I'm doing very little work, mainly for friends at the moment. I'm still in the process of getting all the paperwork done. Once again, Hello everyone.

Once leveled and taped at the top to hold it in place using blue painters tape. You can place a long piece of painters tape across the top to form a hinge, then cut up between the letters to apply them individually. Or if you have a graphic like in example #2 use a vertical hinge, peel the backing back to the blue tape and cut it off, then apply that half of the decal. remove the blue tape hinge peel the backing off of the second half and apply the other half of the decal.

I agree with SA 1000%. Never apply any wrap material wet. It will in time disolve the adhesive and fall badly. Get in doors out of the wind, wrap material is way easier to apply at a steady temp.. You will learn a feel for it. Stroke from the middle to the outside of your panels. When you get wrinkles pull it off and apply just enough heat to form it back, then reapply. Never tent or stretch it over a concaved area. Push the vinyl in. Try to not stretch the vinyl, only apply heat until it looks like glass then squeegee. If you have had to stretch any area make sure you post heat so the vinyl will lose memory. Justine Pate has great videos, or take one of the mmm courses. Good Luck, you will get there!

Ya do not apply that material wet. It is re-positionable also start at the top, work your way down, pop it off if you get a wrinkle and work it out. Watch a few vids and see what they do.

If your using a wrapping cast, never wet install. period. If your "wrapping" with a regular sign vinyl then you might want to do it wet but I do not suggest this at all. It is all together wrong material for the job.