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A buddy just told me about a relatively new app from Adobe, Adobe Fresco. It's a free vector drawing app that is suppose to work really well with tablets and styluses. A guy he follows uses the app and a screen protector call Paperlike that makes drawing on the tablet feel a lot more like drawing on paper. This guy is really pleased with it and his only real complaint is it dulls the colors a bit. Anyway, I have not used this app but we get people in here every now and then asking about using tablets and drawing pens. This might be one worth looking at if that is what you're after.

True that. I've spent countless efforts making "incompatible" software work with different computers. It's like they're trying to test my ability to circumvent the way they want their program to install and run. Challenge accepted!! Clearly there are times when I simply have too much time on my hands

I think you're missing what slice was trying to say. It's not that other programs can't use a Siser cutter, it's just that the only software FC supports is the Leonardo Studio. Here's another example. MicroSoft will say that MS Office is only compatible with with Windows 10 and newer. However there are plenty of people out there that have gotten MS Office to run on older versions of Windows, and even various versions of Linux. There are almost always other ways to run things, just the vendor doesn't want you to use them and doesn't directly support them.

If you can find out who the original manufacturer is for that machine, then you're 85% there. Then you'd be able to test out VM using the correct 'driver.' In the meantime, if you're designing in AI, but needing your format to be in .png, then just export your design from AI to a .png format. CorelDraw, Inkscape, and Affinity Designer also have the ability to do that as well. I rarely design in whatever proprietary software is provided to me, but I have a few machines that I need to use to send the job properly to it.

There is a special wrap vinyl for vehicles. See: Fellers.

I have 6", 9, 12", 15", 18", 24, 30" of paper transfer tape.100 yd length. I only buy 50 yd rolls of vinyl in 15" 24" 30" In 24 colors. I only have 3 colors in 15" I only sell online. I purchase my tape at jra-signsupplies. Ebay most of the time. I purchase a 48" log and they will slit it up to 5 times free. Located in Michigan. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153452552342?var=453402809544 I have had some tape do that before. But I can usually unroll it several times, like 5 times. and then the tape gets better. The outside layers may dry out, but the inside is fine. Maybe , maybe not. depends on how old the tape is. I try to help when I can.

Looking at this photo, it appears that blade tip is extended out wayyyyyyy too far. (I can see it in the picture, which is not good!)

At least you think of things to draw. I fully admit to being a total left-brainer, next to no creativity, but I can execute the crap out of anything, or MacGyver when necessary, but fresh ideas is not something in my daily vocabulary.

Jill, be aware that FutureCorp. offers several different versions of their software. They have one version for machines like Vevor, they call it SignMaster. Then, there's the USCUTTER software, which is sold and distributed by USCUTTER to handle the machines provided by USC. And also, a 'retail' configuration, that is available directly from FutureCorp. --- have you talked to FutureCorp? They are the only ones who can respond to your queries about this.

post your file in .svg format and maybe someone can take a look at it.

Thank you so much for the quick reply. I appreciate you helping me understand the terms used. I was able to change the COM5 to Com1 and got it to work. I'm using the latest SBE - 7 and have Windows 11 Thanks!!

That's unfortunate. I wonder how the University will respond if they cannot get the cutter to work properly - stick to the steadfast rules and virtually brick good equipment, or try and let someone actually help.

All-n-1 and address info text is "Serpentine" Here's the hook (.eps) which needs to be attached to the flowing tail of 'g' at end of Towing. Now all you need is the font for Towing. It's ScriptinaPro. Yer welcome. The general rule is don't vectorize text. Find the right font(s) and re-create/re-type. hook.EPS

Seems like the spammers are able to access the Forum too much. It might be worthwhile to implement a quick "Not a Bot" verification and knock 'em outta here. (Please not one of those "identify a picture" puzzlers -- too much. Just one checkbox would be fine.)

No discrepancy. The $982 is for CUT V1-V4, to XPT. V5. Choose XPT V1-V4 to XPT 5. (far right). You are paying for almost all of XPT 5, upgrading from bare bones CUT for $982. Each version has a different price for upgrade. Click on the versions, they are each different. Page default is on CUT.

There is already a thread here that people showed their shops, you will have to find it. Also, there is only a couple handfuls of forum members that answer questions anymore. I never went small. I started with large graphics and never looked back. My average is 20" wide by 8 feet. L. Clear up to 27" w x 16 feet .L. I prefer making my money fast. Less work, more pay. Large detailed graphics is my niche' I work out of a 13' x 14' bedroom, 8 ft table, 30" cutter, old XP laptop. I have been at it for 16 years, online only. Good luck.

Once leveled and taped at the top to hold it in place using blue painters tape. You can place a long piece of painters tape across the top to form a hinge, then cut up between the letters to apply them individually. Or if you have a graphic like in example #2 use a vertical hinge, peel the backing back to the blue tape and cut it off, then apply that half of the decal. remove the blue tape hinge peel the backing off of the second half and apply the other half of the decal.

blade depth first, because you're getting scratches on the vinyl where there shouldn't be any. if you have dialed in the right blade depth, then make sure you vinyl isn't tenting, or if you have a 3rd pinch roller, use it. off set, to try and tighten up the corners.

This little blurb is specifically to help out those who are struggling with AI specific to vinyl cutting type applications. It is by no means exhaustive or all inclusive but hopefully covers some basics for the frustrated newbie or old hat who is more used to printed graphics. I am anti-monthly payment so I still use version CS5. Some of these tips may be different within your own version although CS6 is almost identical. I use a mac and the quick key shortcuts are slightly different between mac and pc so I will refrain from listing them out. There are a LOT of handy quick keys that are worth remembering if you find yourself using a certain function often. AI is designed for a lot of keyboard to mouse interaction. Preferences Settings Here are a few simple changes that you can make that will probably help. In Illustrator Preferences you have several panels that rotate through. In the General panel change the Keyboard increments to 0.2px. and check the box beside Scale Strokes and Effects. UnCheck the Append [converted] Upon Opening Legacy Files. The 0.2 px will give you finer control, scaling strokes and effects will maintain your outline appearance etc and when you send cut files they are often older versions and you don't necessarily want them updated to a newer version every time you open them up because it will then save them as newer versions and cause you trouble. In the Selection panel be sure the Object Selection by Path Only is checked. This will make it so you don't accidentally select objects you didn't intend to. You simply click at the edge of the part your wanting to select. You may want to adjust your anchor points and handle preferences while your there and I have the Show handles when multiple anchors are selected as well. In the Units panel set General, Strokes and Type all to Points. Finally in the Appearance of Black panel I run On Screen to display all blacks accurately and Print/Export to output all blacks as Rich Black. This isn't so much for vinyl but is a good setting Another HUGE side note. AI is the only program I have found that can turn off the Bounding Box. Once you have your selection set to select by path. turn off the bounding box View>Hide Bounding Box and you won't have that annoying box around everything. Your selected object will be visible by the highlighted path. You can always click it back on if you want to use it to upsize or rotate something but I just use the Object>Scale or Object>Rotate to do those functions and rarely have the box showing. I don't know if anyone else dislikes the bounding box but it irritates me to no end and I appreciate being able to turn it off. Live Effects AI has a lot of what are termed Live Effects. These include Stroke and all the warp options etc... These are handy and in some cases necessary for design but you have to at some point expand them in order for the final art to match the cut paths. A simple trip to View>Outlines will show you want the cutter will see. As for strokes, I use no stroke when designing cut files with the exception of applications where I want to do multi-layered work and have the bottom layer overlapped by the outlines such as HTV outlines around lettering. When using strokes and expanding them it will leave the original object centered in the stroke area. The rest of the time I use Object>Path>Offset Path to create these. Text is basically the same thing but called Live Text until it is converted to outlines (which also needs to be done to cut it. Depending on the method used you may have to expand text and then expand the appearance if it is warped etc... Some workflows will do this in one step. Objects When working with multiple objects and performing functions such "welding" (to be discussed next) you will find that most operations perform better when the Group is changed into a Compound Path. A compound path is commonly known as something with a hole in it like a letter A but can also be a group of objects. Illustrator looks at Groups differently than single Objects. Changing a string of text for instance into a Compound Path by Object>Compound Path>Make will let AI consider the whole string of letters as ONE object which lets special functions perform properly. You may stumble across Compound Shapes as well which are similar to a live effect and need to be expanded. "Welding" Although not an Adobe term, welding is an easy to grasp description that is widely used in graphic discussions. AI has several forms of this function thus finds the term lacking. For basic welding/joining the usual choice for beginners is the Merge function from the Pathfinder menu. Unfortunately this tool will create issues for vinyl cutters. A better choice is the Unite tool. (I think some of the older versions may have a different name for this) Unite will weld various objects together usually without filling in any existing "holes" within compound paths. Merge appears the same and in some cases is the only option if Unite decides to mess something up. However, Merge will also leave unfilled objects inside all the "holes" of an object. Failure to notice these has caused a lot of cutters grief as the cutter will cut that object out as well as the main cut meaning a double cut often messing up the project. The unfilled object problem can also surface when using certain presets in the live trace feature. I set my presets to ignore white but older versions do not have this option. Should you have unfilled objects within a compound path there is a simple remedy. Select one of the unfilled objects, I prefer to find them in the little preview pics over in the Layers panel. Use the little button beside it to select it and then go to elect same button and elect all the objects with the same fill. This will select all within the document and you can just delete them. You will notice that nothing in the appearance changed thus affirming the need to remove them prior to cutting. (As an aside, many cutting programs have a Cut-by-Color options that can also separate these out if you forget to do so.) Live Trace Most newbies see the Live Trace feature when placing an object into the art board and expect it to work miracles. Well, it won't. IF you get a really clean black and white image you can sometimes get a passable result but those are rare. There are some who have fantastic PS skills and can clean up an image and turn it into a traceable design but it takes practice and skill. I usually just trace it out using the Pen tool. Slower but yields great results once you get familiar with the keyboard keys used in combination to the mouse. Another side note. The Pencil tool is probably the least known jewel in the toolbox. If you have something that isn't looking good. Select the object in question and then use the pencil tool to draw over the part of the object that is looking bad and it will append the line to match your pencil path and also apply the auto line smoothing to that area and can help clean up a bad spot in a live trace. I don't pretend to be an authority on the program but these techniques have helped me over the years and hopefully they will help you. I was originally going to post this in the Instructional Contribution area but decided it was better suited to the AI section. There are lots of other tips and tricks but these is the basics.

I've just had my first ever (spam link removed) returned and I'm very unimpressed with the job. The wrapping guy is pressurising me to sign it off so that he can get paid but I feel really reluctant to do so. He tells me that my expectations are too high but I find the finishes around certain areas unacceptable. It's been vinyled in two horizontal sheets with about an inch overlap, made to look even worse as the pattern doesn't line up. In addition to these finishes, the logo and contact details are vinyl cut and placed onto the wrap and so have lost the effects that I placed on them and he has lost some clipping paths on an image that I used on the rear, so the background colour doesn't come through. Are my expectations really too high?

Bagged, poo...

I agree with SA 1000%. Never apply any wrap material wet. It will in time disolve the adhesive and fall badly. Get in doors out of the wind, wrap material is way easier to apply at a steady temp.. You will learn a feel for it. Stroke from the middle to the outside of your panels. When you get wrinkles pull it off and apply just enough heat to form it back, then reapply. Never tent or stretch it over a concaved area. Push the vinyl in. Try to not stretch the vinyl, only apply heat until it looks like glass then squeegee. If you have had to stretch any area make sure you post heat so the vinyl will lose memory. Justine Pate has great videos, or take one of the mmm courses. Good Luck, you will get there!

I've done many full color wraps NON PERFORATED and haven't had an issue 1 doing them wet..... Soak it down, position it, squeegee the snot out of it as you heat, not a problem at all... Never a wrinkle or complaint.......

I would say yes, Greenstar is a cheaper vinyl, A good name brand vinyl would be a good way to set up your machine..

Once vectorized, the original image will still be there with the vector, so you will need to click on drag them apart to separate, then delete the original image, leaving you with only the cuttable vector.