Graniteguy

Sandblasting!

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ok, ok, I just threw away a copier/scanner today but I can still rescue it. will this work as a light box for weeding. gonna go look at the link above to see about adapting.

 

 

Sure, all they are really doing with the scanner is making use of the glass box and lid. Although for a lightbox I think you'd prefer an opaque surface. Taping some thin paper to the underside of the glass would do the job.

Yes!  Go-go-go!  The paper is a great idea.  You could control the intensity by adding or removing sheets of paper.  You can also get some white sheet plastic at a place like TAP plastics.  They'll even cut it for you.  You could use some of that spray-on window frosting, too.  I can tell you that a light box is a great addition to any graphics setup.  I finally got one and it speeds up line drawing from photos about 10 times.  I wish now I'd thought of the flatbed scanner trick.  Great idea.

 

JT

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4 bulbs 4 sockets, fuse holder, switch - figured I didn't need a timer for a few seconds

       Wow.  Cheaper than buying the sockets alone, then.  Looks like I'll be ordering one of those things.  Thanks for a super idea.  The other thing I like about the scanner is the weighted lid to hold everything flat.  

       

      If you wanted a larger unit, there are surplus places where you can buy a dead copier.  Standup operation, large work area, storage underneath, maybe even a power supply if you wanted to use UV LEDs instead of florescent bulbs.  

 

JT

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Ok so I got the bug thanks to you guys and ran out and got a 20lb Harbor Freight unit and the table top blast cabinet. I bought a 20 lb container of aluminum oxide 80 grit media which was about all they had in stock besides some walnut (and some soda blast which looked like you need to convert over to use)

 

Is this aluminum oxide 80 grit going to work for most applications or is it too course? I plan to do a mix of mirrors and glass and hopefully some granite and floor tiles. Some river rocks too. I probably won't be able to get this together and try it out until early next week.

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Ok so I got the bug thanks to you guys and ran out and got a 20lb Harbor Freight unit and the table top blast cabinet. I bought a 20 lb container of aluminum oxide 80 grit media which was about all they had in stock besides some walnut (and some soda blast which looked like you need to convert over to use)

 

Is this aluminum oxide 80 grit going to work for most applications or is it too course? I plan to do a mix of mirrors and glass and hopefully some granite and floor tiles. Some river rocks too. I probably won't be able to get this together and try it out until early next week.

I use 70 grit silicon carbide, but I'm cutting stone.  ALOX is good for glass.  Seems like most glass blasters use finer stuff.  I'm sure some of the more experienced art blasters will weigh in.  The HF benchtop cabinet is a good start.  Have fun, first and foremost.

 

JT

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I have the small unit from H.F. also; been using it for several years, although I just got into doing glass & mirrors.  I am using sand.

What is your air supply?  You need a good source of dry air so you might consider putting a water filter or trap in your line.  A good vacuum hooked up to it, and I clean the vacuum filter after every couple hours or so of use.  I also wear a decent dust mask when I use it.

A couple other items regarding using this cabinet.  I keep a sheet of plastic taped to the inside of the glass window to protect the window from being etched.  I used to use the sheets for old overhead projectors, it took 3 sheets each time.  Then a friend at a print shop gave me several pieces of used plastic used at his shop, large pieces that I have to cut down but it works great.  I change this out every so often when it starts to get hard to see my project.

For lighting I bought a cheap H.F. fluorescent work light (#92079) that I set on top of the window, the clip on the light hangs on the edge of the window frame nicely.

Cal

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I am definitely going to be wanting to do some stone so I will look for some Silicon Carbide. Thanks Graniteguy, There are four different tips in the kit. I assume going to be using the largest with the 70-80 grit media? Do you screen your media before re-use? Can you even re-use it when you are cutting stone?

 

clhyer- In your opinion do I want to grab a hepa rated dust mask or will a typical particle mask work? I have a good shop vac that I will buy a new filter or and hook it to the cabinet. It's winter so I planned to do this in the garage but maybe I better think about braving the cold ad having a little more air movement around me. I don't want to die of silicosis!  Also good tip on the air dryer. I have a pretty good compressor but no air dryer and I can see that would cause issues real quick. I think the HF box comes with a few plastic window protectors but I didn't see any replacement ones for sale in the store. 

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Wildgoose, I just use a decent quality nuisance mask.  If your vacuum is pulling good there really shouldn't be any (or much) dust around you.  Using it inside shouldn't be a problem either.  Mine is outside, but I lack for space and I am located in Georgia also...  To keep water out of my system I have a "toilet paper" filter about 30-35' from my compressor and drain the compressor after every couple hours of use.  I don't know about stone yet, but as far as reusing the media, I just leave it in the cabinet and add when I need to.  When I was blasting rust and such from car parts outside the cabinet I would sweep it up and pour it through a small screen and reuse.

Cal

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I bought the cabinet that has no stand and is just a cabinet to control the dust and media. I bought the small 20lb pressurized blaster to use with the cabinet. The bigger cabinet appeared to be a suction type unit. Being unfamiliar I opted for the one my feeble brain could comprehend the best. (also the cheaper option and a little less permanent) 

 

I did some more reading tonight and it looks like neither the Alum Oxide or the silicon carbide are considered hazardous by way of silica so that makes me feel better. I think I'll try starting out with a few cheap glass objects to give out for christmas and experiment from there. Hoping the aluminum Oxide will still be able to cut natural river stones and floor tiles so I don't have to mess with different media right off the get go. The sites I read from were unclear. Sounds like it will work but probably take a little more time. Also sounds like as the alum oxide breaks down I can still use the finer product for glass etching and stuff that didn't need the raw cutting power of 70 grit. I'm excited! Love to learn new stuff!

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Ah freak! More questions! Sorry to keep bugging you guys. So the HF dude didn't know what he was talking about. Why does that surprise me? Anyway, the blast cabinet DID in fact come with a siphon gun and some tips! Whoo hooo! I bought the pressure pot to do the blasting but now I have options. Therein is the problem. Being a total newby what are you guys who know what your doing recommendations on which gun is going to do the best for be. I see the orifice on the siphon gun are HUGE compared to the ones in the pressure pot. The instructions on the siphon gun specifically say NOT to use harsh abrasives like Aluminum Oxide which is what I plan to start with. So my thoughts are to try out the pressure pot first and see how it does then maybe get around to the siphon gun later maybe with some actual sand or something.

 

Any opinions welcome. I am asking because I still have all night to put the pressure pot together so I will be stewing over this the whole time. I'm anal like that sometimes. kind of excited to have both to tell the truth. 

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I am definitely going to be wanting to do some stone so I will look for some Silicon Carbide. Thanks Graniteguy, There are four different tips in the kit. I assume going to be using the largest with the 70-80 grit media? Do you screen your media before re-use? Can you even re-use it when you are cutting stone?

 

clhyer- In your opinion do I want to grab a hepa rated dust mask or will a typical particle mask work? I have a good shop vac that I will buy a new filter or and hook it to the cabinet. It's winter so I planned to do this in the garage but maybe I better think about braving the cold ad having a little more air movement around me. I don't want to die of silicosis!  Also good tip on the air dryer. I have a pretty good compressor but no air dryer and I can see that would cause issues real quick. I think the HF box comes with a few plastic window protectors but I didn't see any replacement ones for sale in the store. 

 

 

Wildgoose, I just use a decent quality nuisance mask.  If your vacuum is pulling good there really shouldn't be any (or much) dust around you.  Using it inside shouldn't be a problem either.  Mine is outside, but I lack for space and I am located in Georgia also...  To keep water out of my system I have a "toilet paper" filter about 30-35' from my compressor and drain the compressor after every couple hours of use.  I don't know about stone yet, but as far as reusing the media, I just leave it in the cabinet and add when I need to.  When I was blasting rust and such from car parts outside the cabinet I would sweep it up and pour it through a small screen and reuse.

Cal

 

 

I bought the cabinet that has no stand and is just a cabinet to control the dust and media. I bought the small 20lb pressurized blaster to use with the cabinet. The bigger cabinet appeared to be a suction type unit. Being unfamiliar I opted for the one my feeble brain could comprehend the best. (also the cheaper option and a little less permanent) 

 

I did some more reading tonight and it looks like neither the Alum Oxide or the silicon carbide are considered hazardous by way of silica so that makes me feel better. I think I'll try starting out with a few cheap glass objects to give out for christmas and experiment from there. Hoping the aluminum Oxide will still be able to cut natural river stones and floor tiles so I don't have to mess with different media right off the get go. The sites I read from were unclear. Sounds like it will work but probably take a little more time. Also sounds like as the alum oxide breaks down I can still use the finer product for glass etching and stuff that didn't need the raw cutting power of 70 grit. I'm excited! Love to learn new stuff!

 

 

Ah freak! More questions! Sorry to keep bugging you guys. So the HF dude didn't know what he was talking about. Why does that surprise me? Anyway, the blast cabinet DID in fact come with a siphon gun and some tips! Whoo hooo! I bought the pressure pot to do the blasting but now I have options. Therein is the problem. Being a total newby what are you guys who know what your doing recommendations on which gun is going to do the best for be. I see the orifice on the siphon gun are HUGE compared to the ones in the pressure pot. The instructions on the siphon gun specifically say NOT to use harsh abrasives like Aluminum Oxide which is what I plan to start with. So my thoughts are to try out the pressure pot first and see how it does then maybe get around to the siphon gun later maybe with some actual sand or something.

 

Any opinions welcome. I am asking because I still have all night to put the pressure pot together so I will be stewing over this the whole time. I'm anal like that sometimes. kind of excited to have both to tell the truth. 

The ceramic  nozzles that come with the HF blast cabinet will last a couple of hours.  With silicon carbide, they will last minutes.  You'll need to get a boron carbide nozzle for either the siphon gun or the pressure pot.  Check out Big A's sandblasting supplies.   I use a 1/8" nozzle.  The gun I use now is a Clemco knockoff from BadBoy sandblasters.  I modified the setup to use a foot pedal instead of the trigger gun that came with the HF cab.  I used the trigger gun for a couple of years before I switched, so you can use that to find out what works for you.  When you're doing glass, the blast time is short unless you're carving, so you can do a lot before things start to wear out.  Plenty good to learn with.

 

Go to a plastics supplier like TAP and get .010" poly carbonate sheet to protect your window.  You can get a 2' x 4' sheet for about 5 bucks.  That will make 4 protectors.  I take my window out and duct tape the sheet all the way around, then put it back in.  It lasts for about 6-7 hours of blasting.  I periodically wipe the inside of the window with a wet paper towel to remove the dust that accumulates.  Lately I've been thinking of getting some more glass windows at the local glass place, then tape up protectors on them to stand by, ready for rapid replacement.

 

As I said, I'm still using a siphon gun.  I'd like to try the pressure pot, though.  Looking at cut rate that seems possible, it would cut my blast time a huge amount, even with stone.  Check out the Rayzist site, look at the videos.  I just need a better compressor and a drier.  

 

The great fun in all of this is the experimentation, trying new things, tweeking, fun, fun, fun.  Trading ideas!  

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Awesome info Graniteguy. Thank you. I will look at some better tips for sure. 

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Awesome info Graniteguy. Thank you. I will look at some better tips for sure. 

Take it slow, do your homework.  Above all, enjoy yourself. 

 

JT

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I am definitely going to be wanting to do some stone so I will look for some Silicon Carbide. Thanks Graniteguy, There are four different tips in the kit. I assume going to be using the largest with the 70-80 grit media? Do you screen your media before re-use? Can you even re-use it when you are cutting stone?

 

clhyer- In your opinion do I want to grab a hepa rated dust mask or will a typical particle mask work? I have a good shop vac that I will buy a new filter or and hook it to the cabinet. It's winter so I planned to do this in the garage but maybe I better think about braving the cold ad having a little more air movement around me. I don't want to die of silicosis!  Also good tip on the air dryer. I have a pretty good compressor but no air dryer and I can see that would cause issues real quick. I think the HF box comes with a few plastic window protectors but I didn't see any replacement ones for sale in the store. 

As for the grit, it just recycles.  I don't screen it unless I start having problems with clogs.  That sometimes happens when I'm blasting pieces that I've chipped along the edges.  I usually smooth those down with a wire wheel if the piece is going to be handled.  If it's a garden stone or a wall piece, I don't.  Chunks of stone sometimes come off these rougher edges.

 

For a mask I use a 3M mask with P100 filters.  You can find that at a welding supply.  It's the same one I use when I weld something.  The mask is comfortable and the filters are easy to breath through and don't clog easily.  My dust removal system consists of an old Kirby vacuum cleaner head with some a hose attached to the output that runs out into the blackberries.  It draws well enough that I get very little if any, dust.

 

For lighting, I removed the feeble florescent fixture in the light box and cut the top out of the cover.  I attached 3 cheap 150- watt halogen work lights from Lowes.  I removed the cover glasses from the lights to allow some cooling.  The lamps last a lot longer that way.  The lights are powered by an outlet strip I screwed to the back of the light box.

 

My air compressor is a cheap HF compressor that I will replace when it dies.  My drier is two HF filter/dryer units in series.  That setup works pretty well, although sometimes I get a little moisture.  I just have to remember to drain the collectors every so often when I'm working.  Siphon blasters aren't particularly sensitive to water.  Pressure pots are very sensitive.  

 

I'll try to get out and take some pictures.  It's super cold here right now (18 deg F), so the blaster sits idle.

 

JT

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I ended up finding a local supplier who makes media out of recycled porcelain here in the valley. 50lbs for $35 which included a bucket. They call it "White Lightening" It's 100grit and I had time to do a few test runs on glass. He said I should be able to get a couple uses out of it before it gets too fine.  Worked great so I plan to save the alum oxide for heavier cutting. I have a roll of 3M reflective digital media that I got them to send for free as a demo and I found that it works pretty good for a resist on smooth stuff. I doubt I can carve very long on things without blasting through but for the moment it's my main blast resist. I also had reasonable success with some of the Green Star cheap vinyl that I have laying around. If I keep the pressure low and am using the White Lightening I can do quick glass etching without blowing through it. I have a roll of the cheaper sandblast resist coming from USCutter to get me really going and I'm sure eventually I'll get some of the good stuff but I will need a paying job first for the spendy Anchor products. Right now I'm doing some cheap glass cookie jars from the "Big Lots" store that I grabbed for $4-$5 each to give to family friends for Christmas. I'll attach a pic of one. Kind of crappy photo but you can still see the basics.

post-20133-0-00288000-1386621711_thumb.j

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Got a 24" roll of older 651brown (new but older roll) ill trade for the rest of that 3m reflective

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Got a 24" roll of older 651brown (new but older roll) ill trade for the rest of that 3m reflective

I have some of the thick 3M reflective I'll trade for that if he passes. It's like duct tape, I can't use it at all. I'll have to look and see how much I have, but thinking it's two 5' rolls of 54" material.

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post-76590-0-95846100-1386692649_thumb.jpost-76590-0-51500600-1386692672_thumb.jpost-76590-0-08614900-1386692700_thumb.jpost-76590-0-38480900-1386692728_thumb.jpost-76590-0-31842500-1386692769_thumb.j

 

 

OK, so it's too cold to stand out there at the sandblaster, so I took some pictures.  I modified the HF cabinet a bit as mentioned in my previous post.  These shots show the mods I made for lighting and air.  I don't know who the old guy is, he just keeps showing up.

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nice - I gotta change the media in mine - too cold right now - forgot when it was warmer

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Also, oilless or oil? Since you want dry air I'm assuming oilless would work better for this but it looks like oil compressors are quiter, larger capabilities, and have a longer life span. So if one were to go with an oil compressor will a oil/water inline filter do a good enough job to dry the air?

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Go with an oil comp. I put a dryer at my compressor and then one just before the pressure pot.

Bob

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I do some Blasting but haven't figured out how to add color to glass. here are a couple I've done 

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