darcshadow

If you're wanting to be able to show various font options and how the word will look in them I use a program called FontViewer, http://www.ampsoft.net/utilities/FontViewer.php. It allows you to view all fonts on your computer and gives you the option to define the same. By default it is just the name of the font but you can easily set it to what ever you like. There are tons of other font viewer out there, this is just one of the first ones I found that did what I was looking for.

I'm not a flexi user so I'm just guessing here. The red around your text, is that just because it's selected, or is that a stroke around it? In some design programs, when you select something that has a stroke, the size that is displayed does not include the stroke. Could that be what's giving you different size readings?

Your problem is that the PDF file is more than just vector images. The text is a vector but the actual image is a bitmap image. Not sure how SCAL handles it, but Inkscape you simply open the file, then you'll need to select the graphic. For some reason the graphic is part of a group although it's the only object in the group. You'll need to ungroup it before you can trace it.

What exactly is it that you're doing and what results are you getting? The second screen shot above looks good and you just need to click the trace button.

What do you have the pressure set to? Do you have the blade set correctly? Is the cutting strip still good? Is the blade holder properly seating and secure?

Should probably stick to low range. Speed is one of the big killers of precision.

I don't believe there are drivers for the FC3100. Since it's only interface is either a parallel port or a serial port you're simply talking to it over a standard comm protocol. So long as you have a working serial port on your computer, the USB-2-Serial adapter, and you have your software set correctly, Port number, Baud rate, HP-GL language, it should work. Did you use the usb-serial adapter and cable with the mac? Just trying to rule out the adapter/cable as the problem.

If it only works when the cable is plugged in "just right" it could be a simple bad solder joint on the connector/motherboard. Try reflowing the solder on that connector. Since it's a new panel and cable, my next suspicion would be the display chip on the motherboard. You'll probably have to replace the entire motherboard.

Interesting, what software is that?

The words had a stroke applied to them. Strokes are a visual thing and do not cut as they look. In order to get a stroke to cut, it has to be converted to a path first. These are the terms used in Inkscape, not sure if the same terms are used in SCALP or not. Inkscape is a free design program, well worth downloading and playing around with.

Font's are individual files, you just have to find the one you want and download it. There are places that sell collections of fonts and some software programs install fonts, SignBlazer has a pretty nice collection of fonts. Once the font is installed on the computer any program on the computer can access it, including Graphtec Studio Pro.

I too opened the OP SVG file in Inkscape, there was some funkyness with the text. There was two letters on top of each other and one set of them were symbols in Inkscape. Which is some how related to clones. So I had to select all the text, unlink it from the clone, then welded it. There was a weird problem with the first A around the saw, the lines overlapped in a couple of placed but when I did the unclone and weld it fixed the problem. Also, be aware, that the words around the saw blade will not cut the way the look. They will cut as a solid color, if you want a hollow text there's more work that will need to be done. Attached is my edits to make it cuttable diy makers art.svg What program did you use to conver to SVG? I don't know SCALP, but PDF is a vector file and I would expect SCALP to be able to open/import it. So you shouldn't have needed to convert it to SVG.

Have you grounded the stand/vinyl? Could be a static issue.

Does the cut software control your force? And is there also a force setting on the cutter? If so, and based on your description, I would assume the copy button is repeating the design, but not the cutter controls, such as down force and using what ever is set on the cutter itself.

I'm a fan of Inkscape as well, it's an extremely powerful FREE vector design program. Keep in mind, it is for design, not for cutting. It is possible to cut from it, but that is not what it's good at.

It depends on the project and personal preference. If you're happy with the results that's all that really matters. punching stuff out so that you are not layering the vinyl can make for a smooth finish, but getting things to line up exactly so that there is no gap or overlap can be very tricky and the larger the decal harder it can be.

Great. I'll get the details from my friend on what exactly he's wanting and get in touch with you.

Buddy of my wants a few decals printed, anyone on here want the job? I have the graphics ready to go, and there's no rush so waiting for another project to come alone to group it with is not a problem.

I'm assuming you download the A_Series_driver? There are two exe files in that zip folder, A_Series_USB.exe and paraDriver0124.exe. Did you try running both to see what happens? Also, given the age of the A-series, the drivers might not work on anything newer than XP and you may need to setup a computer with XP or setup a virtual machine running XP. You might also try the CT/CA/CM/CB - USB to Serial Driver and see what it does.

Just scanning through the manual, it appears the cutter is either connected through a parallel port or serial port. That would indicate that a special driver is not necessary and you should simply need a program that talks the correct language. That being said, the OS only would matter based on the software you want to use. Signblazer I believe will run just fine on windows 10. Assuming you have a PC with win 10 on it already I'd install SB and give it a try before bothering looking around for other computer options.

Could also be an install problem with the Artcut program. Try the other suggestions first and if they don't work you might try reinstalling Artcut. If that doesn't work, I'd try a different software, Signblazer can be found on these forums and is free, or there are several cutting programs that offer free trial versions.

Have you tried the uscutter.com web page? They have several options for outdoor use. 3M is the other big name that would make some.

Never heard of APET so a quick google search found that APET is usually just referred to just as PET and that Mylar is PET. Then a google search for clear mylar found several places that sells rolls inclucing uline, eplastics, laminator.come and even amazon.

What do you get if you hit the test button on the cutter?

I've had the same sort of issue and when I export as eps from Inkscape VM imports it just fine.