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Boon, if your cutter is out of calibration with your cutting software this will not fix it. If this worked for you then your software must be right and your other original method of trying to size your work must have been flawed somehow or something else is wrong. Bottom line is if you make a square that is 12" and cut it and it's not 12" then you have a problem. If you made your page dimensions 12" and then stretched your square to match that (which it should already have been if you made it correctly) it shouldn't cut any different. If you make a square 12" and still have to stretch it out to fit your 12" page then you must not be understanding your design measurements. What Skeeter was describing is that you can cut a specific size and measure it and make calibrations to bring them into sync so that when you design something 12" that's what you get. If your other setup items are incorrect such as too much blade sticking out or too high uf cutting pressure it could effect the cut by causing extra drag (usually in front to back movement) which may throw your whole process into a real mess. This is why we always suggest dialing in the cutter before trying to figure out all the other intricacies. Exposed Blade is the very first thing then cutting pressure then cutting speed.

pre running the entire length is a good idea, but just because the vinyl drifts, doesn't mean the cut will in relation to other cuts.

I don't necessarily pre-feed the vinyl, but I will make sure that I pull enough slack off the roll so that the cutter never needs to pull directly off the roll.

Proper tracking must be pinpointed (no drift) by first running the entire length of vinyl you'll need through the machine using the manual (offline) positioning of the Y-axis movement. If that vinyl doesn't remain EXACTLY on the same measuring line from the beginning to the end, then you'll have these types of mis-aligned rectangles.

What you're describing is about what I would expect for those sizes. As Skeeter said, you can fine tune some stuff, but it'll never be perfect for long cuts. If you are simply doing rectangles, one option could be to draw the rectangles and individual lines rather than a box. Doing this will force the cutter to start at one end of the line and go straight to the other end. This way you won't have to worry about the cuts lining up in the middle someplace. However, the lines may not all be exactly parallel but it should be close enough that you won't notice. I would also draw it so that the corners overlap a bit, like a hash mark.#

Did you reboot your computer after you installed the driver? Leave the dongle in the computer. I had an old Flexisign 7.6 which I put on Windows 7, After I rebooted the computer, it worked. That is all the info that I have