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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Looking at your first picture, I believe you are cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper. Reset your blade length as per MZ SKEETER'S instructions and reduce your pressure settings. You should barely be making an indentation on the backing paper with your blade.
  2. 4 points
    comments should be about the problem - not personality conflicts. if it continues the thread will be locked Dirt fisherman - keep in mind the people on here helping volunteer their time (many for several years) when it appears someone is not even trying to find answers themselves they do get frustrated and someone with 19 years of experience they might be expecting them to have a solid knowledge of basic functions - - Most of these people read EVERY post on here trying to help - so long winded replies calling everyone condescending puts people in a defensive mode instead of a helpful mode - lets keep the questions and answers condensed without getting personal.
  3. 3 points
    The old timers here, are here to help. We do not know every program out there. we use what we use. Combined, we do know every program for design and cutting. In my opinion, grab a beer and click on help is a fantastic idea. There is more in that click than you can get waiting for help from the forum. In my humble opinion.
  4. 3 points
    I have read the recommendation to leave the plotter with the pressure rollers up - 99 percent of the time for the past 10-11 years mine has been left down and vinyl loaded. I don't follow some directions well I guess
  5. 2 points
    Call Support? Now why would I want to do a thing like that? Nooooo! That's entirely too easy. I would much rather crack a beer, have a seat, and bother the REAL people! Just wanted to update anyone following. I managed to get this rig running, finally. And I gotta tell ya... It helps so much TO INSTALL THE CORRECT CUTTER! That entire time... I had SC2 selected, NOT the Titan 2. After making the correct choice, the bells & whistles came alive. It was a Hallmark moment. No kidding. If any of you could have seen my behavior, prior to choosing wisely, you'd have grabbed popcorn & a fountain drink. Yeah... it was sad. Anyway... After a few test cuts, I noticed that the offset was too low (rounded, incomplete cuts). Of course, I headed straight for the calibration thingy. That's where I'm stuck now. That's where you fine peoples come in. I got to the part where the design shows up on the sign blank. Pretty sure it's a grid, with #'s & letters. Well, I hit CUT IT NOW. It starts cutting... then stops... and just sits there. Your thoughts?
  6. 2 points
    You should be peeling the wax paper backing off the decal. it makes a huge difference. Lay decal tape down, peel the backing off. No mention which vinyl or tape you are using,
  7. 2 points
    I refer you back to post 5 in this thread from sunday . . . .
  8. 2 points
    No problems with a desktop with 8 cores and 64gb ram either
  9. 2 points
    First things first --- identify those fonts (2 different ones). Do not ever vectorize text. Horrible results. Ask them for a higher-resolution copy, maybe if you're lucky get an .eps version!!!
  10. 2 points
    Hats are fickle. I mostly use my "kids" platen as I have stated before which is called the Allstar now. It's only 2-3/4" tall so the designs have to be no more than about 2-1/2" and I try to maintain more like 2" to 2-1/4" just for easier placement. The foam hats look like they have room for taller platen. The standard platen is 3-1/2" and that seems to be just a little too tall to allow the crown to settle down on most of the hats I sell or at least the smaller one is a LOT easier to get them to lay flat. The extra platens are pretty pricey and I think you have to go directly to the stahls website to get them. AND they aren't cheap. For me the secret is the smaller designs and choosing hats that fit my press better (and steering my customers to those styles of hat). Never tried a pillow on there and I don't see how it would be very productive to try and get it all stuffed in there and settled down. I just pre press them and then vigorously stretch the hat so it lays as flat as I can get it to the lower platen. Some edges tend to roll off and as long as your design doesn't lay over the edges that won't hurt anything. Having the print loaded hold down is really nice and I would hate to try and get a consistent job without it.
  11. 2 points
    I defer all hat questions to goose or those that do lots more than I ever did - I sold my hat press years ago. Juice wasn't worth the squeezing in my area
  12. 2 points
    I am not sure what takes the sublimation ink off a platen - you can try the easy off or even some rubbing alcohol first - if hotronix the platen is probably covered in a coating anyways but this is how we learn, there has to be a couple of missteps in the process. we all do it and continue to make mistakes even years later. forgetting to mirror htv will be the one that returns for years
  13. 2 points
    always, always use butcher paper or similar protective paper over the project. You are correct that the ink in gas form attached to your platen and causing that red ghosting. cheap roll of butcher paper (uncoated) from sams, costco etc last a LONG time and saves your press
  14. 2 points
    For the sublimation work I would make the print so that there was enough open area on each side and probably above the crown that the edges of the paper won't create a crease and the tape can be applied so it isn't even under the heat. Just a longer strip if that makes sense. It will waste a little sublimation paper but in that scenario that is what I would do. I never tried to sublimate a hat but other than the problem you are finding the sub job looks awesome. One thing I do on most of my hats is as soon as I put a pre-press to it for a few seconds I then lift the heat and work the hat to stretch it a little and make it conform to the platen a little better so it doesn't get the creases. I have never pressed on a foamy so they may not conform but most regular structured hats will.
  15. 2 points
    In my experience, if the cuts are too deep into the backing paper, the vinyl decals get 'stuck' (sorta fused onto the backing layer). However, you say this is not happening, so there's something else going on here.
  16. 2 points
    a free version that is very close is OPTIDiannaScriptBoldAgency (Bold *Oblique)
  17. 2 points
    Now with all that said I believe it is a white over purple Carla Pro (Regular *Oblique)
  18. 2 points
    That's an interesting question. When I had my P-Cut budget cutter it said to never leave the rollers up. When I got my High end cutter it said to never leave the rollers down. LOL. I just do what the cutter manual says. The reason the cheap cutter said to always lower them was to keep from compressing the springs for long periods and weakening them. The reason the high end machine says leave them up is because it will create flat spots on the pinch rollers and lead to tracking inaccuracy. Maybe the higher end machine has better quality springs, I have never had to replace the pinch rollers and I've now had this thing for 6 years. I try to keep my vinyl inside a plastic liner so I tend to remove it and store it. If it's some HTV that I am using pretty often I may leave it on the machine but not under the rollers. Each to his own.
  19. 1 point
    Yes. Yes I did. I'm on #3. I'm a cheap date. Sorry about that, Dak.
  20. 1 point
    To add to this. When you click the Origin button, that is where your vinyl cutter starts to measure your design. When you click the ORIGIN button. Your cutter shows X 0 Y 0. That is the starting point. You should place your blade/ carriage head at the right lower corner of the vinyl. Click ORIGIN. That is when your cutter starts measuring the design that you send to to your vinyl cutter. ( The cutter may not start cutting there at that point. Most vinyl cutters start cutting at the point where the design was created. The cutter may advance on to the vinyl, but it will come back and finish the entire design. I make very large decals and my cutter may advance onto the vinyl 4 ft, before it starts cutting, but it will come back to the front of the vinyl and finish the whole design.) Make sure you have chosen the correct width and length orientation in your cutter software, so the vinyl cutter does not cut off of the vinyl or is too big for the vinyl. No reason to use WYSIWYG. You push the ORIGIN button before you send your design to the vinyl cutter.
  21. 1 point
    What those pictures show is not clear. Razor cutter? No. TrippLite adapter? ?? LPT port? No. Get back to us with better\corrected info, OK?
  22. 1 point
    It BECOMES easy. In a year or two you will look back and wonder why it seemed so complicated. I'm an Adobe Illustrator guy and when I first started learning the program I thought I would never figure it out. Now it's second nature and I use it for all kinds of other things too. I am a construction manager by trade (vinyl and shirts is a side thing) and I do technical drawings and make annotations on pdf drawings and make cool presentations for my kids for school or nice personalized cards for birthdays etc... Enjoy the journey.
  23. 1 point
    Just because paper tape doesn't look professional, it doesn't mean that it is not the right choice for the job. . I have always used paper tape. Most professional people do.
  24. 1 point
    there is a big name vinyl cutting supply dealer that does the same thing. 14" Digital Electronic Cutting Machine Craft Vinyl Cutter - Die Cutting, Signs That is on a MH vinyl cutter ad. Just put the words die cut stickers into the Ebay search bar and see all the stuff that comes up. I must be doing it wrong.
  25. 1 point
    Temperature is a factor, yes. Also, what is the surface like? Make sure it's clean (use isopropyl alcohol).