Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Cut this tiki mask from an old cutting board I found atthe local swapmeet for $1.00.Don`t know what kind of wood it is, but it was great forcutting on the cnc, very little fuzzy`s.19.05 thick.Cut with .250 ball nose bit.Very little clean up needed.7 in X 11 inTook about 1 hour.Great fun.mark-s
  2. 4 points
    I am always looking for a deal on vinyl cutters or software. I was just browsing Ebay a few weeks back, and up popped a great deal on a Graphtec FC8000-75 (30 inch) for $1000, FREE shipping. BUY IT NOW. I made sure and read the ad really good. I figured it was worth taking a chance on, for that price. It did show it powered on. I got it yesterday, It did have a small problem with it, the blade holder was not coming down to the cutting strip. So it would not cut. After taking the carriage head cover off, I noticed that the cross cutter on it was locked and stopping the blade holder from coming down. All I had to do was slide it back over, and the blade holder came down and cut just fine. It was a quick fix. This cutter is not that old, only a few years, the model was upgraded to the FC8600. This cutter came with the stand, basket and all in like new condition. After cleaning some tape off of the cutter and some dust, it was in great shape also. This cutter sold new for over $4000, so if you just keep looking, and take a chance, there are still great deals out there on used high end vinyl cutters. The deal just got better. I sent in the serial number to Graphtec, for this vinyl cutter and got the FREE Graphtec Studio Pro software which is worth over $1000. It is like Flexisign pro without RIP drivers.
  3. 3 points
    Personally I buy most of my stuff through USC. Hard to beat the prices and the Oracal/Orafol vinyl is awesome and is about 2 days to my door. I do occasionally buy local. I'm sure there is a sign supply shop somewhere near you. Most will sell cast vinyl by the yard. A note about the 24" height on the large letters if I understood that right. Size of graphic can be controlled at the point of sale. As you gain experience some of that experience is in sales. I steer my clients or potential clients in the direction that makes my job easier. In the case of the large lettering I would offhand mention that the letters will be cut from a 24" roll and be about 22" tall. If they are set on them being 24" and make that point then you get into a conversation about wider 30" vinyl and additional cost due to waste or if your cutter is maxed out you have a conversation about tiled work. Either way you can get a little more $$ if you feel you need it. I rarely find a job that has any single string of text graphic that won't fit on a 24" roll. You DO want to pay attention when you figure it all out to just how much waste you will have. Some designs are JUST large enough that they end up too large for a 15" roll but waste a lot of a 24" wide roll. You also want to plan on messing a few up and I always add a mistake factor into most of my work so I have some extra $$ just in case and a bonus if all goes well. You CAN layer smaller app tape on wider jobs but it's not a great idea. You'll often find a row of bubbles that develop all along the overlap. If you are getting into wider signage you will probably want to find and use some sort of app tape installer. I use the Big Squeegee Cut Vinyl Tool. Works great once you learn how to use it. There are several other options. Wide and long tape applications are challenging. I have taped off items over 20 ft long several time and do it on my 8ft long dinning room table. Never happen without my Big Squeegee, its amazing.
  4. 3 points
    Have you checked around your area to see if there is local vinyl shop that sells to the public? I have one here in NC that is like 15 mins from me. I like going there because if someone orders a color I know I'm not going to use again, I do not have to buy a whole roll of that ugly/crazy color. Prices at my local shop are not to bad. Also if I need something printed on 3M I can get that done there too crazy cheap if I do the artwork. Just a thought.
  5. 3 points
    HDS cannot be 24" tall, because your effective cutting width on 24" vinyl is just around 23" (routinely, I design anyting for 24" vinyl at 22.5", and if I need larger, I'll jump right to 30" vinyl which gives me 28.5" width to work with, or 29" if I really must). Same thing for the other words, you cannot have 8" letters, and then stack them like that -- the math doesn't work. You have to allow a fraction of an inch between the words, and then a slight margin at the edges of the vinyl. You better have tracking dialed-in perfectly if you want to have less than 1/2" on each side of the vinyl for margins.
  6. 3 points
    Think about this, vinyl costs pennies, compared to all the extra work and time lining things up. Use 651 Matte black My2c
  7. 3 points
    Does anyone remember the old days of hand cutting vellum for silk screening? I think the stuff was called maskease or easymask. A green gelatin on clear plastic and you had to cut the gelatin and weed it without cutting the plastic carrier. Then you chemically melted the gelatin to the screen, but I don't really remember how. For a while in the 70's and 80's a lot of the schools in Illinois made every 7th and 8th grade student take HomeEc and Industrial Arts. It was really a great program, at the end two years everyone, boys and girls, new how to cook, sew, create a budget, do basic wood working, draft and silkscreen. Took me nearly the whole quarter to draft the design and cut the screen for my T-shirt. Cutting that stuff was a nightmare but you were sure proud of your work when you were done. A few years later I stumble across "photo reactive masking" in a DickBlick catalog and couldn't believe how much time I could have saved, LOL.
  8. 3 points
    I think it might have been because of how thin the fonts were. I ended up making a shadowed outline for them and it sticks much better now.
  9. 3 points
    Congratulations MZ SKEETER on the new to you vinyl cutter. I would agree with you on being able to find great deals, you just got to keep looking . That's what I did when i got into cutting vinyl. I bought a used Summa C-60 and it's still going strong.
  10. 3 points
    try a paper tape and after you apply spray the tape with water, wait a minute and remove the tape
  11. 3 points
    I did thank you! Got the blade zeroed in with your daylight trick pushing it down and the J is no longer in my design. Im good to go ty!
  12. 3 points
    We always steer people away from the MH cutter, as it prone to many problems. Having the blade exposed too far can cause the vinyl to shift while cutting like that. Too many people think you set the blade depth 1/2 credit card thickness., Which is way too much blade exposed. 5 years you dealt with that? WOW. But many people have great success with the MH cutter. So which cutter did you purchase from Ebay? I can't think of any Chinese cutter that could come close to Graphtec, Roland, or a Summa. The closest with most any advanced features would be the Titan series, sold at UScutter. which is a rebranded Saga brand vinyl cutter.
  13. 3 points
    Practice at 'Hand-Trimming' vinyl is fairly fruitless if your Goal is to get a Cutter. Your Practice time would be better spent working with Imaging Software and Vector Graphics, IMO. There are a few Free Programs such as Inkscape and Sign Blazer that may Better advance your Knowledge Base. 2cents.
  14. 2 points
    Exactly! Sometimes, it becomes very enlightening for the customer.
  15. 2 points
    I do the same and I use that pic to scale my work. Just take a pic as square to the world as you can because screwed pics don't work as well. Then suck that into your design program and lay your work on top. I either take a measure on something like a door so I know exactly what the dimension is or I take a pic with a tape measure in the pic so I can scale properly. Then scale the drawing up to actual size and your design will be set to the correct size along with it.
  16. 2 points
    Mock-up's go a long way, especially when the customer has an idea of what they want, but really have no idea how quickly something will scale up (or scale down). For some customers, when possible, I will take a picture and do the mock-up on the photo, just so they have an idea of how big or small their request is.
  17. 2 points
    You said you tested removing the 651, how long did you leave it on the wall though? That'd be my only concern with using 651, a year or two down the road you might not be able to remove it without damaging the wall.
  18. 2 points
    users and now message or contact the user support@uscutter on the forums for help. This will be a paid employee of USCutter dedicated to answering your questions http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/profile/104167-supportuscutter/
  19. 2 points
    Yeah, it was my fault that they decided on 24" tall letters. I could have easily said 23" was the max and they wouldn't have cared. They just wanted really big letters. I'll know better next time. Still not sure if I'm going to just make them smaller, or end up turning them 90 degrees and cutting them separate. Either way... I'm going to get some wider transfer paper. I want to try the paper stuff anyways.
  20. 2 points
    I do a LOT of HTV work and Siser is my fav. You are correct in your assessment that there is adhesive on the back side. I suggest you get an infrared heat temp gun and check your platen temp. Many platens can have cool spots and many of the heat readings on them are way off. Heck even my $2000 Fusion was 40deg off and required an adjustment. I tend to lean toward the longer end of the dwell time like 12-15 seconds I do 15 and if you have a cool spot on your platen increase the temp until that spot is up to the recommended 305deg unless its on an obscure corner that doesn't see much contact. The Siser people will tell you you can adhere with even less temp than the 305 but I don't like to have to worry about it. I have tested Siser Easyweed at much higher temps without a failure. You WILL begin to see some of the adhesive start to bleed out along the edges particularly in layered work but no one without a trained eye will ever even notice. I wondered if this would cause too much to escape and thereby trigger a failure but I have never had one from overheat. Pressure is also a key element. Swing away presses tend to develop more even pressure than clams unless the clams have a center point load. Watch out for thick collars and sewn seams. They will hold your platen up and cause failures. Heat press pillows are the cure for that application. I have not seen any problem with over pressure other than again possibly causing some of the adhesive to bleed out at the edges.
  21. 2 points
    Wow, I have to apologize for suggesting you look at the SC2... Wonder why they did that? In any event, hope you find what you need Meucow.
  22. 2 points
    Let me jump into the fray here. I am not sure what you mean by "only cutting with contact paper", but if you are cutting vinyl like the rest of us... look into an SC2 cutter with Sure CutsALot Pro. I have an older SC model, using SCALP 3 (never upgraded). My computer is a Mac using OS High Sierra 10.13.6; I have never had an issue. I suspect that when Mac updates their OS, that there is a lag time before all the software companies like SCALP update their websites and such.
  23. 2 points
    The Ioline Cutters are listed in my VinylMaster Pro Setup Wizard.
  24. 2 points
    Well it`s hard to see by 2 in x 2 in crappy little webernet image. Look at Serpentine it has a U shaped like that. I do know LGA is Air Millhouse. If you have permisson to do that work, call the and request the file, they should have that on file no matter who designed it. mark-s
  25. 2 points
    During that 5 years what steps did you take to try to resolve the problems? users on a user forum like this that own or have owned the machines have a lot of tips. support also might have been able to help. the problem you describe, as mentioned above, we usually find is caused by too much blade exposure, not lining the vinyl up to begin with so it tracks straight or as you mentioned people messing with the tension on the pinch rollers (usually to reduce marks that are normal). With all that said not sure why you would buy a value hobby cutter to do your fleet graphics - it can be done but is much more difficult to get set up properly than a better cutter. since you already shot it and feel better I guess we can not be of any help -