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  1. 5 points
    I heard something go bump in the night, walked downstairs this morning and found this. Merry Christmas to me!!
  2. 4 points
    I've been cutting since ~2014-2015 and have done quite a lot with a little. Have contemplated going full time but that requires a lot of time and a better cutter (currently have an MH Refine 721 that I bought used). Anyway here's a few that I've done! I've got more, just can't find them on here.
  3. 4 points
    Friends don't let Friends put glitter on a car. LOL
  4. 4 points
  5. 3 points
  6. 3 points
    Thinking I should take a trip to the states just to ship. Only a 15 min. drive. Ship from there, have lunch and come back.
  7. 3 points
    Now what is wrong with a bass boat Buick? Especially on old boat of a Buick.
  8. 3 points
    I have a friend who commissioned a tiki themed surfboard sigh for one of his kids hoodie. The pic is a little dark from bad lighting but it shows what you can do with the full color options at F&M custom screen print transfers. Thought I would post it up. This in on the back of a royal blue hoodie and looks more vibrant in person. I originally did one of these on a 3G printed screen print but they don't hold up all that long and she wore it out so this is a Christmas gift coming to her soon.
  9. 3 points
    Agreed. In the last 6 or 7 years, I have used it maybe twice. And both times where just for gag gifts.
  10. 3 points
    Also to check your vinyl. Not all vinyl is perfect, If your making large orders like myself, you want to see the entire 8 ft or so before you cut it. You will find over the years, there are imperfections in vinyl or big sections of mottle. (This happens when vinyl rolls are tight.) Easier to see on dark colors. You have a chance to see those areas when pre feeding, and can cut those sections off of the vinyl roll and save them for smaller designs. You wouldn't want to cut a 8 ft design then see about 4 ft into the design it has a 1 inch section of mottle all the way across 24 or 30" wide roll. or a run in calendered vinyl. dimples,in vinyl. I cut up to 16 ft..So i prefeed the whole 16 ft. I do have a media basket. You could see if something is stuck on your grit roller, as it will make marks under your backing and show thru to the front when prefeeding. With Graphtecs, the rollers make a nice little track in the vinyl to follow tracking, back and forth. This is why there is an actual prefeeding feature on the Graphtecs.
  11. 3 points
    pulling the vinyl off the roll reduces accuracy as the vinyl can slip in the friction area between the pressure rollers and knurl rollers. any slippage is not good for accuracy of cuts and making sure the ends line up
  12. 3 points
    This was done at 40 to 50 PSI using what looks like 80 grit. Some kind of titanium mix from the Canadian TSC. I actually wanted the deep etch on this one. 651 held up no problem on the small letters.
  13. 3 points
    I couldn’t decide either...so I left as soon as I could! Then I had many friends who decided a life of a correctional officer was a good choice... but like G Gordon Liddy said, “those types of people who voluntarily put themselves in prison for a living are not right!”
  14. 2 points
    Gimicky would be in the all in one category. Those are kind of sucky for all the extra stuff they are supposed to be able to do. Spend more on a dedicated press. I know starting out is a lot of money but if you can find a way to budget for a Fusion do it. I looked at several high end options and settled on the fusion and after having it I can't tell you how glad I am I went this way. The threadable platen and quick change options make production a snap. I can say with authority the thing has paid for itself in saved time in a single season. I also suggest getting the 11"x 15" and the leg/sleeve platens. The 11"x 15" turned sideways is perfect for hoodie fronts so you don't fight the heavy front pocket seam holding the platen up and the leg/sleeve will slide in most necks (thanks again to the totally threadable design) to do long sleeve shirts and across the shoulders on football uniforms etc... This just my $0.02. I started with a budget swing away press and ran it for about 2.5yrs. That works too but OH the difference.
  15. 2 points
    The user manual is pretty easy to find and is copyrighted 1995
  16. 2 points
    OPTIAmericanGothic (Medium) (Free) or Copperplate Thank you "Find My Font" Sue2
  17. 2 points
    Boy, I am really impressed with the prices of 15 inch x 10 yard rolls of 651. I don't work for uscutter LOL But as i load my cart, prices are like 11.85 for basic colors - thats .40cents per foot! Thought I would share if someone would like to stock more colors. - even if you have a 24 inch machine - chances are most decals you cut would fit in the 15 inch roll. I buy this size for my particular cutter/printer- medium term stuff.
  18. 2 points
    Cut the dull side. The shinny side is the carrier.
  19. 2 points
    I cut a LOT of HTV. The Fashion Film is pretty much the same as Siser Stretch. HTV and especially the stretchier variants need a really fresh blade and I would go so far as to say get a higher quality blade than the cheap stuff. Clean-Cut makes a great blade and I think there are premium blades available in the US Cutter website. Set the new blade like Dakota said a couple posts above and then use just enough pressure to get the job done. The plastic carrier as well as the stretchy HTV just have more give than other products. Higher end cutters have a suction that helps to hold vinyl down when it's running.
  20. 2 points
    I was bored the other day and found something at princess auto. That would be like the US northern tool or harbor freight. And I thought, HEY, that could work. So for $29 Canadian I got me a 10 roll storage rack. Not bad for a lumber storage rack.
  21. 2 points
    You had me at Titties....
  22. 2 points
    just a few of my things ive done
  23. 2 points
    I would start with a new sharp blade - and make sure it is with the proper exposure - looks like it is dragging from too much blade and pressure
  24. 2 points
    I generally just wrap a piece of copy paper around the thing and then draw a line where I want it to be straight. Unwrap and voila you have something you can scan in and use to warp/bend your text or graphic to meet the curve. sometimes takes some tweaking if there are compound curves. Every cup is different it seems.
  25. 2 points
    After a bit more thinking I don't think this is as complicated as I thought it might be. Dusting off my high school geometry I think the following will give the width you'd need to stretch an image to get it to appear at the correct aspect ratio. Stretch Width = arcsin(image width/Diameter of cylinder) Need to experiment, but I believe if I stretch the image as specified by the equation and then run it through the cone correction tool when applied to a glass it should be straight and have the desired appearance.
  26. 2 points
    Here's Chapter 8 with all the info. ama_Ch08.pdf
  27. 2 points
    On fixed-wing aircraft, marks must be displayed on either the vertical tail surfaces or the sides of the fuselage. If displayed on the vertical tail surfaces, they shall be horizontal on both surfaces of a single vertical tail or on the outer surfaces of a multivertical tail. If displayed on the fuselage surfaces, then horizontally on both sides of the fuselage between the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer. Exceptions to the location and size requirement for certain aircraft can be found in 14 CFR part 45. On rotorcraft, marks must be displayed horizontally on both surfaces of the cabin, fuselage, boom, or tail. On airships, balloons, powered parachutes, and weight-shift control aircraft, display marks as required by 14 CFR part 45. Almost universally for U.S.-registered, standard certificated, fixed-wing aircraft, the marks must be at least12 inches high. A glider may display marks at least 3 inches high. In all cases, the marks must be of equal height, two-thirds as wide as they are high, and the characters must be formed by solid lines one-sixth as wide as they are high. The letters “M” and “W” may be as wide as they are high. The spacing between each character may not be less than onefourth of the character width. The marks required by 14 CFR part 45 for fixed-wing aircraft must have the same height, width, thickness, and spacing on both sides of the aircraft. The marks must be painted or, if decalcomanias (decals), be affixed in a permanent manner. Other exceptions to the size and location of the marks are applicable to aircraft with Special Airworthiness certificates and those penetrating ADIZ and DEWIZ airspace. The current 14 CFR part 45 should be consulted for a complete copy of the rules.
  28. 2 points
    When a customer wants instructions for doing a decal application themselves, what are you providing in the way of details? http://www.chesapeakesign.com/resources/Installation-Vinyl.pdf This is a pretty good guide, PDF format.
  29. 2 points
    It's your money..I don't buy new computers. too many great deals for under $100.. and those windows 10 updates are shutting quite a few down now. See it about every week now. Those people are coming in here for help, They had a Windows 10 update, and then their cutters won't communicate with their computer anymore.
  30. 2 points
    Dammit, MrJoel, now you have me interested (up until now, it seemed you were joking around and I was responding in kind). OK, so you are right, the actual instruction manual (.pdf online) avoids mentioning that button function. (Apologies for saying RTFM, a crude term showing the frustration of being bothered with questions so trivial that the asker could have quickly figured out the answer on their own with minimal effort, usually by reading readily-available documents). Here is what you're gonna do ---- make a fist with your LEFT hand and slowly, ever so slowly, extend the index finger (the one next to the thumb). With this finger fully extended outwards, carefully go ahead and push the button. Not too hard, gently. What happens?
  31. 2 points
    Sorry I posted this in the wrong topic earlier. I am a retired electrician due to a severe injury. I would consider myself a 2nd year apprentice in this industry, purchased a titan 2 and a clamshell heat press. Not top of the line equipment, I just needed something to keep me busy and try out to see if I would be capable of doing this. I really enjoy this and there are endless possibilities in this business. Now that I have a year under my belt it will soon be time to upgrade my equipment. I would like to say THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU to the admins and contributors who make this forum awesome. Also with the help of this forum I was able to produce what I wanted right off the bat, thanks again. I will be posting some of my designs in the graphics section for all to use.
  32. 2 points
    I actually use the Green Star vinyl for blasting. It's a little thicker and hold up a little better to the abuse. I also use it because the adhesive is LESS so it comes back off much easier. Especially if you hold it under warm water when removing. I think you just have too much pressure or are getting too close with your nozzle. Stay 6"-8" away. I use the trigger gun that came in the cabinet and regulate the thrust somewhat with the trigger but also have a pressure adjustment valve mounted on the back of my cabinet and run mine around 35lbs for glass work. You really don't need that high especially if you are just frosting things. If you start carving deeper maybe a little higher.
  33. 2 points
    I have a friend that bought a 15" cutter just a few months ago and within 3 months was upgrading to bigger cutter - a 24" gives you much more capability. a personal recomendation would be to go up to at least a titan series (even though the titan2 servo motor is a better choice yet for quiet and servos are very accurate) here is the titan 1 28" with stand on sale right now for a great price http://www.uscutter.com/TITAN-Vinyl-Cutter-28-53-inch for heat press I would start with a 16x20 so you can do shirts up in the larger sizes (3x, 4x) I have never used this one but looks like it fits all the items I look for in a press like over the center pressure adjustment and a sturdy handle design (if you keep doing it in a couple years hotronix and mighty make very sturdy presses but would be way out of the budget starting out) http://www.uscutter.com/Large-15-3-4-x-19-5-8-Clamshell-Heat-Press Keep in mind I am not an employee of USCutter just one of the volunteer moderators that has been around a few years
  34. 2 points
    I lived there from 6th grade (1986) until 1994...my family is still there, as is my wife’s family. The only way people know of ionia is if they are huge fans of the worlds largest free fair, or...um...they have family that “resides” there! At one point we had 7 correctional institutions within 15 miles of the city, most within 5... in my travels around the US, I have had several people who knew of ionia...none knew it has the worlds largest free fair
  35. 2 points
    hold on did you live there or did you "reside there"? LOL
  36. 2 points
    Good idea. Got a floor model for $10.00 and added wheels to it. The last rack I got was free, wall type. Both are full. mark-s
  37. 1 point
    That is what the Keyspan Adapter is for also, it controls the data sent, so that it is not all going at 1 time.
  38. 1 point
    Another I did for someone in Oklahoma for his transport truck.
  39. 1 point
    Yup I came back missed you guys and ladies how is everyone doing? Business has been slow so I took up video game streaming and perler Bead making and doing ok. I’m still licensed to sell all the goodies I use to make just don’t know what’s up with the economy or my stuff. Oh well it’s good to be back.
  40. 1 point
    dang, U must have been on the top of the nice list. guess I need to post a pic of mine. I always buy my own since I kno what I want. lol. Upgraded my Milwaukee cordless impact. cyber mon deal!! 700/1100 lb torque. my old 1 was 450lbs
  41. 1 point
    Here's a couple better images. I don't know if it's the southwest. It has a chimney, and I think the house in the background does too. Plus the hills in the background are pretty green. If someone could figure out who the guy is in the stained glass, maybe the church is named after him.
  42. 1 point
    Thanks Primal. Centurytel internet and it's been a mess for over a week now. Today I'm getting partially loaded pages, if they load at all. Took ten minutes just to load half that page, so I couldn't see any of that information. Uggggg. . . .done venting for now. I return you to your regularly scheduled forum.
  43. 1 point
    Don't think I'd want to try reflective as a stencil, that stuff is a pain in the butt to removed, rips real easy.
  44. 1 point
    I have it, but is it copywriten?
  45. 1 point
    Wildgoose, you funny guy! You have described the contour cutting feature perfectly!
  46. 1 point
    If your using Graphtec cutting software, make sure the COMMAND in the cutter menu is on GP-GL... Other software is HP-GL. Many people here still use the old FREE Signblazer software on their Graphtecs. using the Copam driver.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    we use a hotronix also we use around 3 so that we don't leave any marks on the jacket, hope this helps
  49. 1 point
    Yes, I know. This is an old thread, but just dealt with this guy. Ordered a bundle to be downloaded. Made an offer and he accepted. Payed with PayPal and got the download link in a couple of hours. All cool, the link was to something I did not want, did not order and never will. Nothing to do with what I ordered! All emails have been ignored and calls are not answered, or messages returned. Waiting for a complaint through PayPal and hope to get my money back. I know some have been happy with some of the stuff, and happy for you. But for me, NEVER AGAIN.
  50. 1 point
    That looks like a trace of a bitmap without any clean up. Using text will be razor sharp - unless the font has been designed to look like this. The shape could also be made with the Polyline tool (red pencil icon) on left side.