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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/04/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Thanks everyone! After ordering the correct cable it worked perfectly. I got this out a gross garage so now I get to clean it up, order some blades and get to work designing! You guys were a huge help. Thanks again.
  2. 3 points
    I have been cutting for years. I know the different vinyls. I use matte also. And I have to change the force for it. And I run a Graphtec. Some people have problems with different gloss colors also. I have never used Matte white. No one has ever asked for it. It may sit around longer than other colors. I do use alot of Matte Black.
  3. 3 points
    Yes, that's how you do it.
  4. 3 points
    They may be buying from a third party vendor who actually IS licensed and just retailing the product which I THINK is legal or could be arranged possibly with some small discount from the vendor to allow a modest profit. I tried to see what it would take to get licensed with a local university (that my kid was attending at the time) and the department that handles that stuff basically lined out the specifics that are major quotas and some sort of accounting/inventory program that tracked everything that had to be running so there were no "lost or missing" items etc... It was in the tune of tens of thousands of dollars up front. I just wanted to make a hoodie for my kid rather than fork over their exorbitant price. The cool part was that they told me that if it was for my own use (ie. my family) that I was not breaking any copyright or trademark law. They went as far as to "ask" that I refrain from making something that did not properly express their Brand. It was a surprising and enlightening conversation. I followed up with an attorney pal about this and he confirmed that they hold trademark on the brand and obviously the copyright as well but that in the US there are no restrictions on what someone can make for themselves if they have the ability. Cannot sell it or even give it away as that would be diluting their market and a breach of trademark law. That long winded story does little to help you but I feel better.
  5. 2 points
    Using windex with ammonia also does not help.
  6. 2 points
    So the trough is just a trough, and you can choose to use it as a means to cut your vinyl with. I personally put a long strip of painters tape over because when the edge of the vinyl would get to that length, it would get caught int he trough and tent up. So I taped over it and just use a scissors or sliding letter opener. I'm not sure what other people do.
  7. 2 points
    That's all you need to get started. Heat press pillows are nice to have around as well. They let you press stuff that may have thick seams or buttons on the garment that prevent the press from a good even press.
  8. 2 points
    It’s kinda what we do. Greatest group of volunteers on the net.
  9. 2 points
    You should be able to do 1/4" lettering without any trouble. I have an MH and have done some stuff that was about 1/8", it was a pain in the butt and I'll not be doing it again, but it was doable. Also keep in mind though, the smaller something is, the less glue there is to hold it in place and the more likely you are to have it fall off when applied. With HTV you can actually do pretty small detailed stuff because of how the vinyl sticks to the backing. You still have to weed it and again, the smaller something is the less glue there is to stick to the shirt but you'd be amazed as has small you can get. Again, not something I'd want to do, but still interesting to experiment and learn the limits.
  10. 2 points
    I think layering the red in letter by letter may be a bit over kill, but breaking it up into words, or 2 - 3 foot sections would probably be wise. Paper tape and wet application can help as well. Doing a web app you have a bit more liberty to position the vinyl. It's a pretty good way to doing when just starting out. As you develop your skill and learn various tricks you'll get to where you can do it dry pretty easily.
  11. 2 points
    Maybe something here? Or contact them. https://vinylcutterparts.com/
  12. 2 points
    It's a Copam. UScutter used to sell them. It seemed to do very well, as a stepper cutter. Did you download the FTDI driver for your Windows version and install it? https://support.uscutter.com/hc/en-us/sections/360007369351-Copam-Vinyl-Cutter-Series
  13. 2 points
    Same here .... predominantly use 651, so the only thing I really need to adjust is force. Each of my colors have their own characteristics - the older the vinyl, the crunchier it is for me. I know that vinyl has a self life, but I'm too cheap to keep on replacing some of the colors if it's only a small run and it won't cover the cost of the vinyl and time and effort. The older my vinyl, the greater the force. The more intricate design, or tiny detail, the slower the blade. I rarely need to adjust the blade depth.
  14. 2 points
    Biggest problems Newbies encounter is setting the blade depth correctly. Too many wrong instructions out there. Don't use instructions that have to do with a credit card thickness or post it notes. They are wrong. Vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick, so you only cut with the very tip of the blade. Blade depth has to be set correctly before any other settings. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder Make sure the carriage head wheels are firmly in the track. Never be pulling vinyl from the roll, always enough slack to do the order. Make sure blade holder is firmly down in the carriage arm. If you had the blade too far out, make sure you haven't broken the tip off.
  15. 2 points
    From problem description that would be my guess. If you double click on the text you will get a text editing cursor if it's text, if you get the node editing view then you don't have text, you have curves that look like text.
  16. 2 points
    is your vinylmaster activated? did you create that text within vinylmaster - if not the text could be converted to outlines.
  17. 2 points
    You should hire a lawyer.
  18. 1 point
    I'm not sure in SCALP but in Inkscape you can select an object, then select the point you want it to rotate around. So for this case, you'll have to do the math to figure out the angles, but once that's done, select the 3 circles at the top of the column, set the rotation point the middle circle of the middle column then enter the amount you want to rotate it. Duplicate and repeat till you complete the half circle. If you can't figure out how to move the rotation point, or can't get the rotation point at the exact spot you need, select all 3 circles of both the left and the right column, duplicate and rotate the necessary angle, repeat till you have a full circle then just delete the ones you don't need.
  19. 1 point
    The black cut is solid, not a problem for the entire 8 feet to be applied right onto the dumpster (or truck) in one shot. Then, I would lay in the letters, one by one, aligning them by eye onto the black background (here is a good example of clear app tape being useful).
  20. 1 point
    What software and version are you using? Are you willing to share the file, so others can help troubleshoot the issue? Have you tried SignBlazer Elements if you're using a different software? How large is your vector file?
  21. 1 point
    Did you follow my instructions? You can have the blade out too far and and still not be making a mark on the wax paper backing. And I stated, you should barely see a mark in wax paper backing. You want to see a slight mark on the backing, That way you know you are cutting all the way thru the adhesive. It also helps if you need to replace a small piece, you can see the outline. If your thinking, it's just because it doesn't cut the backing, then you would be wrong. It is about how far the blade is extended out of the blade holder. You should barely even see the blade tip out of the blade holder. You use the force of the machine to cut.You use the least amount of blade possible, Even if you think it wouldn't cut at all. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. What does the teflon cutting strip look like? If it is all gouged and scratched, that will cause problems. Also you need to start with a new blade. Seeing as how the cutter is used, try a drop or 2 of light oil in the blade holder, The blade must spin freely. And if you have the pen tool, what happens when you use it?
  22. 1 point
    Guy I work with has a 3d printer and a pen. The pen typically is just a toy, but he has used it to repair/touchup parts he printed with the 3d printer.
  23. 1 point
    There are too many incorrect instructions out there for setting the blade depth, We don't know how you set it. Do not use a credit card thickness or post it notes. It is very important to get the blade depth set correct first, before you can adjust the blade offset. The correct combo is less blade, more force. This is the correct way to set your blade depth. For speed, start slow until you learn the cutter. For small text and detailed work you will want to run slow. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder
  24. 1 point
    It would be a good idae for you to officially sign up to the forum so you don't have to wait for a MOD to approve your posts.
  25. 1 point
    No, there are curves and cutouts around the posts as seen in the image. I should have said it's a gasket for an electronic device. The gasket goes to the edge of the case. Don't ask me what it is because he's trying to make me guess and I haven't figured it out yet! I have the SVG of the gasket and it is clean, I just offered to find out for him if it can be readily cut by machine.