Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/05/2022 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I have a 1965 mustang that the original owner put a eelco flip gas cap on. The original rubber that is about 3/16" thick had deteriorated after all those years and is no longer available - I found some rubber that is proper thickness - designed the holes for the mounting bolt and vent hole along with proper diameter (in graphtec pro studio) and put in the cb15u blade, that I use for rhinestone template and thick sandblast mask, - cut a perfect replacement gasket. never tell a sign/decal person that something can't be found - we make em.
  2. 3 points
    I really miss Bill, we used to talk all the time, His favorite saying " Going fishing, Somebody has to do it" LOL That was Bill.
  3. 3 points
    Rest in peace Bill. You are no longer with us but you are not forgotten. Semper Fi
  4. 2 points
    I had that written once, and removed it.. I try to give people a little credit that they do have it in the correct position in the carriage head, BUT the last Graphtec person that came here for help, had the blade holder in the front, cutting over the groove, and ready to throw his cutter out the window. Glad you posted it AGAIN. It crossed my mind again to post it, when the OP said he thought thicker vinyl would work better. Why? Thinner vinyl works better, not thicker. You would hope that people could see whether they are cutting over the groove or the teflon cutting strip. But I guess not, Said he been cutting for 19 years. Said worst cutter he ever ran. Blah blah blah. Nothing but user error. Those 2 holes are there for a reason.
  5. 1 point
    BINGO!!!! You win. That's the first thing that got my attention, when I looked at that photo. 8 different blacks, there is really like 9 or 10. Out of room on black squares., which is why those parts are missing.
  6. 1 point
    Super random - any chance those two elements are actually raster and not vector?
  7. 1 point
    If you can't seem to break it apart like you would like, then copy and paste, then node edit out what you don't want to keep from each one. I do that frequently.
  8. 1 point
    I'm not as familiar with VM as I'd like? Will that work if the design is all one shape even though it looks like it's multiple parts? You may need to use the Break Apart command in order to turn the design into multiple objects that can be selected individually.
  9. 1 point
    Your TEST cut is not even correct. That is incorrect blade offset, shown in your user manual. Make sure your cutting settings is either being ran from your cutter OR your cutting program. Just because you change your settings in your software, does not mean it it changing it on the cutter. I use Flexi software. In my Graphtec menu is> BACKGROUND SETTINGS, There is CONDITION PRIORITY.. I make all of my changes in the Flexi program. There is MANUAL OR PROGRAM. I select PROGRAM in my CONDITION PRIORITY. I am running/making changes from the Flexi software program. I also make all of my changes from the Graphtec Cutting Controller, right from my computer. FORCE, SPEED, OFFSET,QUALITY is always changed on my GRAPHTEC CUTTING CONTROLLER (WINDOWS ONLY) I never make changes directly on my vinyl cutter. To be able to use and make changes on the GRAPHTEC CUTTING CONTROLLER, The cutter has to be sitting there ready to cut. Using Graphtec software only Command is COMMAND>GP-GL Any other brands of software like Flexi VINYL MASTER, ETC is COMMAND>HP-GL.
  10. 1 point
    Is this cutter brand new or new to you? I have a Graphtec FC7000 and a Graphtec FC8000, both 30" I have no problem cutting very detailed designs. That is my business niche'. My designs are a lot more detailed than that. You are not showing what your problem is. You are not showing what the design looks like after cutting. We can tell a lot from looking at cut vinyl. Too many people use wrong instructions when setting up blade depth. People think you use a credit card or post it notes to set blade depth and that is just wrong and too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. (Even after cutting for years). You have no idea how many people will say The blade depth is correct," I used a credit card to set it" And that is about 10 times too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. "Or it is cutting the vinyl with barely a mark on the wax paper backing." (That does not explain how far the blade is exposed out of the blade holder). Make sure that you have not broken your blade tip off. Very easy to do, if too much blade is exposed out of the blade holder.. You should be doing TEST cuts from the Machine TEST feature before doing any design cutting, That is how you set up your cutter. The blade depth must be correct first, or all of your other settings will be off also. Show your TEST cuts. (The Square and triangle) TEST cuts must be correct first. Without showing what is being cut, we have no idea what you are talking about. Also, make sure you have the flange correctly holding down the lip of the blade holder. We have seen that also, Also make sure the cap is tight on the blade holder. A lot of us cutters use a 60 degree blade for cutting everything. Setting blade depth is all about, using the least amount of blade exposed out of the blade holder. The correct combo is less blade, more force. This works correctly for any vinyl cutter. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct. No mention which cutting software you are using, That cutter came with Graphtec Pro Studio which is rebranded Flexi Sign Pro. (for windows) The best that you can get. You stated this cutter is new.. So, why haven't you contacted Graphtec tech support? They are your tech support. The cutter would be under warranty, if it was new.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    How big is that art work? It shouldn't cut past the pinch rollers. You should read the user manual which can be found online. Graphtecs have more features than value cutters, for a reason.
  13. 1 point
    Sign up and join us.
  14. 1 point
    The one thing I totally appreciated with VM software is the Vectorizing engine they have. It converts raster graphics to vectors really well (especially silhouettes that you can grab off the internet as jpegs or gifs and then run them through VM and end up with nice cuttable files).
  15. 1 point
    To be able to use Signblazer or any other cutting software that is not Graphtec branded, The COMMAND needs to be on HP-GL. Only GP-GL is for Graphtec software. They have more features for a reason. quality and precision.
  16. 1 point
    Blades are readily available everywhere online. Many suggest CleanCut brand. SignBlazer has the CE3000-40 machine driver, and costs you zero. Cutters operate on principles developed in the 1950's (by Remington Rand and HewlettPackard) ---- nothing really has changed. If you are moderately competent in computer usage, you'll be fine.
  17. 1 point
    Before you do anything else, get rid of the cat.
  18. 1 point
    Any while they are bottom of the barrel, they can be made to work well if you take the time to tune it and work out all the kinks. I've had one for about 15 years that has served me well as a hobbiest. Just have to know the limitations of the machine.
  19. 1 point
    We have told buyers for years not to buy the MH cutter, and to step up to at least the SC2, It is a known fact that this cutter has problems, Static, tracking, connecting, You should read before you buy. The info has been here for years. Most any value cutter comes from China. Your post is nothing new that most people don't already know. So what is your problem? That cutter and any value cutter will run better on a Tripp-lite Keyspan adapter and a null modem cable. Posted 100's of times on here. Tripp-lite is the brand name. Destroying your material? Either static, or you don't have your blade depth set correctly. Posted here 100's of times. Blade depth has to be set correctly first.
  20. 1 point
    I have found when this happens it is usually bacause there are breaks in the geometry or crossing lines. CAn you post one of the SB files? Jay