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  1. 4 points
    My Graphtec dropped data at 16 ft. I had to go back to 12ft. Not sure how a powered hub would work. 12 ft works great for me. Also I would want to be close to my cutter, when you hit send. Big jam ups could ruin your cutter.
  2. 2 points
    I can't argue - I might have tried to argue before I actually owned the fc but you are 100 percent correct
  3. 2 points
    Tip for others on the forum working with large format tile - covering the tile with your application tape allows you to draw on the gloss surface and precisely cut those lines - used it for outlets and the first shower tiles and worked great. you could draw on the back of the tile but when making the cuts I prefer to slowly cut from the good side to minimize any chipping. the tile by the shower valves is just temporarily setting there until I mix more mortar - just checking fit your vinyl supplies work great for so much more than decals. a while back I needed to cut a specific size hole in some aluminum and cut a circle in 651, applied it and then just followed the vinyl as a guide
  4. 2 points
    Try the serial port on the cutter. The USB port on the MHs are just trouble.
  5. 1 point
    Not likely. If you could, it would be cheaper to buy a lot better cutter. And I don't know of any top of the line cutters that are Bluetooth. You could get a rattle can of blue paint and run the cable under the carpet.
  6. 1 point
    Dakota, even though this Forum is not the most important thing in the Grand Scheme of Things, it's obvious we do enjoy coming in here and providing some help, some advice, some ideas, some feedback, etc.
  7. 1 point
    Without having a better-resolution image to go by, it sure appears to be hand drawn lettering, not a "font" That being said, try throwing Helvetica Round Bold in there, adjust the "G" with a few node edits to match that letter in your drawing, and you should be good to go "up in smoke"!
  8. 1 point
    Have you checked your blade tip? You may have it broken off. Get your strip fixed, and a new blade in and start fresh.
  9. 1 point
    slice is correct. the MH is a very "dumb" cutter. It just cuts, no smarts to it at all.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    The very first thing that gets set, is your blade depth. That must be correct before you adjust anything else. This is how below. Posted hundreds of time on this forum . Then you adjust your blade offset, in your cutting software. Start at 0.25mm. Adjust at plus or minus 0.05. Look at your TEST cuts from the TEST feature on your cutter. The square and the triangle, or whatever the test is, should be sharp corners. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  12. 1 point
    If your blade was exposed too far out of your blade holder and you had been cutting a while, have you looked at your cutting strip for scratches and gouges? If, so replace the cutting strip. We don't know what you are using for settings in your cutting software.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    But that FC beast is worth every penny!!!
  15. 1 point
    So glad I pulled the trigger to get a CE6000 when I did.
  16. 1 point
    The issue of grounding is not the cutter or even the stand for that matter, the issue is the vinyl itself. As you stated the cutter is grounded through the outlet and internal wiring. The problem is the vinyl is what is generating the static and it has no place to go other than through the blade. The static discharge into the blade will also pass through the various electronics before it gets to ground. The fix is to ground the vinyl itself so that static does not build up. This is most easily accomplished by grounding the stand since the vinyl is touching the stand all the time static can not build up on it. The other option is a grounding wire/cable that drapes across the back of the cutter and touches the vinyl as is feed into the cutter.
  17. 1 point
    Hi, I was wondering this, too. Some experience grounding problems, but the cutter is grounded through the plug connection with wall socket. I assume inside the machines the "ground" cable is connected to machine's frame? That would make that the machine is grounded. But as I understand correctly, the static issues is that the stand is not grounded? So a small piece of wire from stand's frame (aluminium) to machine's frame (steel bottomplate) would get rit of any static charge built up? Does it matter that the rolls that the vinyl roll is placed onto are made of plastic?
  18. 1 point
    I would print every day. I don't think it has to be a whole lot but run a nozzle check so every nozzle get s squirt. I did for quite a while and then forgot to an soon had a plugged head. At one point I tried to set up a program on my mac that would strt up and print every day like the solvent/ecosolvent printers do but I had limited success with that. I was able to go on trips and come back several days later and not have any issues though, BUT the sublimation ink seems to have fairly high amount of solids floating. The main problem with the Epson is that the actual print head part stays in the machine and you just change out the cartridge of ink. (that is part of why the ink cost less) Most inkjets have the pintehead as part of the ink container so you ger a new print head every time you change ink. They are a real PIA once they get plugged. I was succesful on clearing one plugged machine but my other one ended up in a dumpster. The WF7710 was what I was using at the time I think I had only paid a couple hundred for and I did a sublimated set of jersesy for a softball team so it had paid for itself on one job. Things may have changed since then, I haven't followed prices or the latest printer tech. I have gotten so busy with tee shirts that I stopped taking on a lot of the peropheral things. I DO miss playing aorund with trinkets like dog tags and key chains etc...
  19. 1 point
    yes. Little to no difference. I seem to think part of the issue is that the material sits so high on the rollers in the back. My older machine the material sits much lower. At this point i'm done with this machine. I have a older signwarehouse q60. basically a rebadged graphtec. It works great.
  20. 1 point
    Do what you got to do! Kudos to doing the reno on your own ... there is no way that I would trust Ken to do anything the demo phase. You know, 'cause I'd want the how water to come out of the fixture, when I set it hot, etc. Hahaha. Great job!!
  21. 1 point
    I have had 3 roland eco solvents in my home - OEM inks not bad at all, aftermarket stink terribly and cause more problems. as to if it is safe I have no idea but had them for 7 years in our house running. Just keep it printing every couple of days - biggest issue is people buying them because printing is sexy and easy and not enough use they are replacing very expensive heads - and the reason we sold out last one as we started going on 3 week vacations and hope to snowbird someday - I could count on at least 1 new head after 3 weeks away, even with the printer doing it's own self cleanings 3 times a day. they don't like to sit unused and will let you know about it
  22. 1 point
    The part you'll need is called a Z-Chip. It is on the motherboard. Probably soldered in place. (if you are real lucky, it will be sitting in a socket and can be pulled & swapped without soldering).
  23. 1 point
    It all starts with having the correct blade depth. That is where you start. Too many wrong instructions out there that just won't go away. Do not use a credit card or post it notes to set your blade depth. It is way too much blade exposed. Use the TEST feature on your vinyl cutter. That TEST cut should be right, before you go sending designs. Blade offset starts at 0.25mm. Then go 0.05 plus or minus and see what looks good. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade tip is so far in the blade holder that you wouldn't think it would cut, It is probably about right. Illustrator does not have a way to set blade offset or blade overcut, which you need on a value cutter. Always make sure you have vinyl prefed to do the whole order. Never be pulling from a roll while cutting.
  24. 1 point
    While not directly related to your specific question, here's a link to the USCUTTER App Tape Dispenser (24" and 48") that is quite valuable to assist in laying down this transfer tape. https://uscutter.com/APPRoller-Tape-Application-Roller (Highly suggest securing the unit to the table edge with c-clamps)
  25. 1 point
    I speak from true experience Kronick. I was once a newbie and argued with this very forum about a design that I actually built which was a parody of a HD logo. I literally spent a few weeks delving into the true nature of copyright and even went as far as emailing HD about my parody and explaining why I felt it was well within the Fair Use protection. They sent a Cease and Desist letter back and told me to pound sand and should I go into production I'd promptly find myself in a lawsuit. One of my good friends is an attorney and after a conversation with him I found that yes I was clearly within the Fair Use protection as an obvious parody HOWEVER they could still sue me and basically how much money did I have to fight the ominous HD corp? No where near enough. I quietly dropped the subject and moved on with my life and kept my house and cars. In truth most small operators like yourself or myself will rarely do enough business to draw the attention of a major corporation and if noticed a cease and desist letter will generally be the end of it (if obeyed) because they don't see enough potential payback for the legal fight. But if the forum somehow facilitates copyright infringement then the forum owners are liable and they DO have some money behind them so you better believe they might go after US Cutter. Thus the touchy subject.