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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Hi, and welcome. I make signs all the time that are 4x8. The key is designing things to fit your vinyl. For instance -- 28" x 88" is a good workspace for one section, and 14" x 88" for another. (30" and 15" material) In this example, the phone # would be one cut, and the rest of the text another cut. (two different vinyl roll widths)
  2. 5 points
    Dad and uncle's soon to be open brewery is in an old water treatment building. Been making all the vinyl for it over the last few months. Gave me a reason to upgrade from my 16" MC to a 36" SC2. Even reverse weeded to use as stencil to paint the logos onto an old tank he set up in the front. The little water tower is a replica of the town's. That one is about 2" layered, that was fun.
  3. 4 points
    Offset affects corner sharpness, start and stop points not matching up is a tracking issue or a file issue.
  4. 4 points
    you can either direct the software to "Tile" the image or you can select elements that fit into the width you can cut (which I can do 90 percent of the time) - - - - don't have kids around when you go to tape a 8 ft project the first time or install 8' the first time they will add to their vocabulary
  5. 3 points
    Using the default settings it traces it fine. Then outline it 0.25" using this tool (tip change the corner style for variation):
  6. 3 points
    The vinyl will last for years it's the banner that will have a limited life span. It makes a big difference which part of the country you live it too. If you are in AZ sun baking every day vs being in the mountains in the shade of a tree. The ones you see give up the ghost are the ones where a business has one tied up on a side wall getting beat up by wind and scorched in the sun. Biggest thing is to be sure and warn customers of the potential life span, their mileage may vary depending on how well they take care of it. My kids school has a banner they put up in the gym that has to be a decade old and still looks fine...
  7. 3 points
    Are you sure about that? I don't have an LP3, but I do have an SC2 and the button layout is very similar. Yes the arrow buttons control the pressure and speed, but if you hit the LOCAL/PAUSE buttons, they will now control the head and rollers. ...at least on the SC2.
  8. 3 points
    Helping you to understand what offset is and when to change which way will help you far more in the future than telling you which way to change it - the teach a man to fish philosophy
  9. 3 points
    red clay designs llc out of Georgia has that one listed on ebay and amazon - both with the erroneous term die cut - that is the only place I found that design so betting they made it
  10. 2 points
    is for a bigger blade used for things like real thick sandblast resist, cb09 is the common one I have 4 of
  11. 2 points
    no UV adhesive I know of or has been presented at trade shows But be sure that Sally with her Cricut would do it in a heartbeat -
  12. 2 points
    If you want to cut directly out of AI on a mac go with SignCut Pro 1, That's what I use. If your cutter is not on their list I can guarantee they will add it or figure out which driver is compatible. They have actual live tech support and will even remote access your computer if you need them to in order to get you running. SignCut Pro 1 is just a cutting utility that can't do much else on it's own. It acts as an interface with your cutter and has a plug-in for Illustrator. I don't use it straight from my mac most of the time (but I can) because I want to be working while my cutter is cutting and I keep the cutter in a separate part of my workspace. SignCut is compatible with both mac and PC and if you like it and buy a lifetime dongle you can load the program on any computer and then just plug the dongle in and cut from whichever you choose. If you don't go the dongle route then you can still swap computers but you have to change it over and they only allow 5 computer hops then you have to call in and talk to them. The dongles are for sale at a reasonable rate on the USCutter website. I paid about $400 for mine when I bought it and they are a lot less now. You have to use a design program like AI or similar in order to have a good experience with SignCut because Pro 1 does do design. There is a new version Pro 2 that is out and I have no idea what it does. I am happy with Pro 1 and my workflow is efficient.
  13. 2 points
    Nothing in the manual? CONTROL PANEL Used to provide input directly to the cutter.( Covered in detail in the “Control Panel” section of this manual.) Right in section CONTROL PANEL. UScutter.com website SUPPORT has all of the user manuals as well as FAQ for their vinyl cutters. Page 21 Very detailed user manual for the Laserpointer 3. You have to actually read it, madmorgan!
  14. 2 points
    From the USCUTTER.com website SUPPORT> user manual Laser3. Page 21
  15. 2 points
    Did you push the LOCAL button first? Before using the arrows. The Local button allows you to move the vinyl with the arrows.. What about the UP and DOWN arrows? They have a purpose also.
  16. 2 points
    Take the time to read the user manual and understand what the buttons on the Control panel do. The user manual is on the UScutter website. Look at the LOCAL button. There are smaller vinyl cutters higher priced than that, and they don't even come with a stand. I'll offer $100 and you pay shipping.
  17. 2 points
    Just about any vinyl will work on banners. I usually use Oracal 651 myself. Long time forum moderator Banner John (guess what his specialty is) uses mostly the green star banner which is USCutter's in house offering. Banners are a short life option if left up for extended periods. Typically 6 months to a year. If they are just put up on occasion and pulled down the rest of the time like a softball team banner then they will last a long time. The higher end vinyls should handle the stresses of folding and rolling up better than the budget minded vinyl but the cheaper vinyls are generally thicker and may have better opacity when used on a colored background such as white lettering on red banner material. Comes down to a little bit of personal preference, price and end user intent.
  18. 2 points
    I don't have a LP3, but I'm guessing it kind of functions close to what my LP does. You need to take the machine "offline" before you can use the arrow keys to jog the vinyl, or more the blade carriage. As far as setting the pressure - it really depends on the vinyl, and that's what the test is for. it's cut a small box and you can see if there was enough pressure dialed in to cut through the vinyl. I have some carbon fiber vinyl, and it requires a ridiculous amount of pressure, but that is probably going to differ depending on the manufacturer of the material. "Test" will save you vinyl if you're not sure.
  19. 2 points
    For cutting each segment in order I would either do as Skeeter said and use a pen on butcher paper to test or simply shrink the design down to a few inches and cut it so you can see the progression across the design. As to whether it will cut the whole thing as long as you figure out the cutting order idea then if it happens to twig out on you it won't really waste much vinyl other than no longer being one long run. I too would turn off your weeding box if you typically use one. Bear in mind once you cut something that long you will also have to mask it off. I use a Big Squeegee Cut Vinyl tool for that kind of thing but getting started straight on something that long is tricky and takes some practice.
  20. 2 points
    I don't know how Vinyl Master works. I have always used Flexi software. Draw it and try using the pen tool and see how it does. Does Vinyl Master have anything like optimize cutting order? Flexi and Signcut do.
  21. 2 points
    Kind of looks like one of those scenarios where the cutting software accidentally got a setting changed and is treating the radius cuts wrong. What software are you using?
  22. 2 points
    You should always have spare blades on hand. That's a must. Especially if your running a business. Look at the tip of the blade, it's probably not there. And 16 is more force than I would use. unless your cutting something thicker than sign vinyl.. I would also look at the cutting strip for gouges and scratches. Also the blade has to turn freely in the blade holder. Add a drop of light oil.
  23. 2 points
    What brand of HTV. What type of jersey material (occasionally some are nylon is why I ask). This is your first post so I have to ask what press are you using and have you made fully sure the temperature is spot on? HTV is all about 3 things: Time, Temp and Pressure. Most if not all of the budget presses are off by no small margin on the temp. Heck even my Fusion was off by 40deg so get yourself an infrared temp gun and check your platen in several spots. Generally speaking when in doubt I tend to put a little more pressure and a little more heat rather than less pressure or less heat. If your platen has a cool spot then make that the spot you set the heat from so it's always going to be at least the recommended.
  24. 2 points
    I can never manage to cut the vinyl perpendicular to the roll, so to try and align the vinyl based on the cut edge would go horribly wrong for me. If it's bunching, then either you've got too much pressure/force going on and it's cutting through or applying so much force that it's dragging. Also, check your pinch rollers and make sure that they're clean. If you're cutting directly off of a roll, it's rolled pretty darn straight with equal tension. I rarely need to jog the vinyl back and forth to check for straight. If it's a smaller piece, or something that isn't on a roll for me, then yes, I do jog the vinyl back and forth and gauge the 'straightness' based on the vertical (molded) lines on the front of the machine.
  25. 2 points