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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    What I sell is my secret
  2. 4 points
    I hate when people start a thread and once they get their answer they disappear. I always wonder what the outcome was so I thought I'd drop in and close this thread with my final thoughts on my purchase (Titan 2 SE 28") and experience after about a month of ownership. Dakota and Skeeter were right about the servo motor. Holy crap. I will never go back to a stepper motor. I really like how quiet and smooth it is. Part of me wonders if the vibration and rough performance of the previous stepper motor cutter I had played a factor in some of my vinyl shift. The difference between servo and stepper is night and day. If you're looking for a cutter that is a great balance between cost, features and performance then I would highly recommend the Titan2. It was a bit mentally tough going from a Silhouette and a free MH721 to dropping $850 on the Titan 2 SE 28" but I am so glad I did. A few weeks after I purchased mine it was $100 less on some special sale so keep an eye out! With the past 2 cutters I had it seemed like it was such a chore to cut even the simplest thing (tracking issues, cutter going bonkers halfway through cut, limited vinyl size,etc,etc..I could on and on). It's nice to be able to say "Hey no problem let me cut that real quick." and know that it's going to be a simple and aggravation free experience. . The longest I have cut so far is 3ft and 15" wide complete coverage using vinyl from edge to edge. The Titan2 performs flawless - perfect cut, quiet and smooth. The vinyl catch basket is a HUGE PLUS for me. My cutter sits in an office with wood floors so naturally dust builds up that you dont notice (no matter how much you clean!) until your vinyl hits the ground. Being able to throw a roll of vinyl in the cutter and let it hang freely in the basket and know you wont have to deal with floor dust is nice! Overall I am very pleased with my purchase. It has made vinyl cutting an enjoyable experience rather than a pain in the butt chore I would hate doing. I doubt I will ever use the full width of 28" but I went with that model because you never know where you'll end up. I will be cutting a 12 ft long x 15" inch tall floor logo in the coming days. I may split it in two 6 ft pieces.. If the Titan pulls off a 6ft run flawless I may just throw a party Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions and advice. I really appreciate it!
  3. 3 points
    Wow. Amazing that your avatar still has a smile on your face.
  4. 3 points
    Backstab Personal Use (Regular) at DaFont Compliments of Find My Font POOR PHOTO...too dark! Had to take it into Photoshop to increase the brightness & contrast.
  5. 2 points
    The quality of the graphic to start with can make a big difference as well. Was the image an auto trace? That will result in horrible results for fonts. I would say to post your file, but it can't contain any copyright protected stuff.
  6. 2 points
    It doesn't sound like you set it up correctly. Sounds like you didn't set the blade depth and blade offset correctly, which is why you have rounded letters. Any value cutter can also be over loaded with memory, depending on how many nodes are in the design(picture). Nodes can be simplified. You haven't explained how you tried to set it up. or ask any questions for help here. Unless you have been running and setting up vinyl cutters for years, there is a learning curve. This is why it is considered a skilled job. Every vinyl cutter settings have to be tweeked into getting top performance out of them. It is not plug and play. So explain how you set your blade depth, which is the first thing that you need to get correct. You may find that it is all user error, which is the problem with a lot of new users. Show a picture of your test cuts. Don't blame a vinyl cutter performance, unless your an expert at setting them up. My 2c
  7. 2 points
    I've seen your advice about using unique designs but I personally like making custom stuff. Just wasn't sure if ebay was the place for custom work or not. Thank you for the input!
  8. 2 points
    I build some graphics kits for concrete mixer trucks out of 751 and they have me pre-make quite a few so they just have them on hand when they get ready to repaint or repair a truck. I know for a fact they let them sit around for most of a year and apparently they still go on ok. I usually put a piece of cardboard on top and bottom to help keep them flat and protected.
  9. 2 points
    You don' t need a feeler gauge to set blade depth correctly. This works for any vinyl that your cutting. And it does not hurt to have a little mark on the backing, it helps if you need to replace a piece of vinyl, You have the outline of the vinyl piece. Here is how to set your blade depth correctly. Your welcome. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder.
  10. 2 points
    Your removing the vinyl wrong. You squeegee the top transfer tape real good. Turn the decal over, transfer tape down and peel the backing away slowly at angle, and make sure that the vinyl is not lifting with it. it makes a huge difference. I even write it on my instructions. The masking/transfer tape is not supposed to lift the vinyl. You will bring up the wax paper backing doing that and it will be stuck to your decal. Also, if you are cutting too deep, you will drive the edges of the vinyl down into the wax paper backing, making it harder to remove. How did you set your blade depth? Just use the word decal. We know what your talking about.
  11. 2 points
    I recommend a lower platen cover. they will help you slide shirts around as you first lay them on and if you have anything on the back side it will keep it from sticking. On top I would recommend just picking up some parchment paper to use as a top sheet. It's cheap and available at your local walmart and you can get hundreds of press cycles with it before it starts to go bad. On my fancy press I finally broke down and bought an upper platen cover as well. and it has been nice to not even have to mess with a cover sheet but not something that I used until recently. If you are pressing a single color item the carrier plastic is sufficient to protect the platen so I usually don't mess with any cover if I am just single color. I used to when I was new but eventually just stopped. You will sooner or later want some heat platen cleaner and scrub your upper platen once in a while. I clean mine right before I do white shirts usually. Here is the cleaner: https://www.uscutter.com/EZ-Off-Heat-Press-Platen-Cleaner-5-25-oz-tube You will most likely need a press pillow as well. I bought a fairly large one (12"x15") and have used it for years. I eventually had to go get some new foam for it. Anytime you have something that has thick seams or collars or hoodies with the front pocket, you need to be careful that they don't hold the shirt up near those seams. My very first failure was a baby onsie that had enough thick seams around the middle that it didn't create good pressure. I have bought a few other options as well over the years but use the pillow most often. Particularly with polo shirts and things with pockets. I have a prefect press pad I bought from stahls but you can use a mouse pad or two and get the same effect and I find that on polyester it leave too much of a defined press mark so I use it only when I have no choice. My little pad is about 4"x5" and just right for left chest sized logo's. A mouse pad could be cut down to the perfect size and stacked two high if needed. I also have a sleeve pillow (6"x18" I think) that I slide into long sleeves or down sweat pants. Must have's that you can build into the price of a specific order that will need them. When you get busy enough to afford a Fusion they have an actual lower platen for sleeves that I use most of the time but occasionally something is too small to fit on it so I fall back to my pillow.
  12. 2 points
    Yeah, keep in mind, just because a file has a vector file extension, does not mean the image in the files is actually a vector.
  13. 2 points
    Definitely get the best cutter you can afford. That is going to be your bread and butter for a while, so make it a good one. At the very least, do not go lower than a LaserPoint. 1st: https://www.uscutter.com/Refurbished-28-inch-TITAN-2-Vinyl-Cutter It's a refurb, but it'll get you a more accurate servo motor. 2nd: https://www.uscutter.com/TITAN-Vinyl-Cutter-28-53-inch 3rd: https://www.uscutter.com/LaserPoint-3-Vinyl-Cutter-ARMS-Contour-Cut Stick with a 24" cutter, and definitely get a stand - the basket is a personal preference, but kind of needed if you're going to cut something long. Like Darc recommended, don't buy into the package deals, unless you really want all the junk in it. What I find helpful ... an extra cutting strip and Clean Cut blades.
  14. 1 point
    Hope that it works out for you. Your welcome
  15. 1 point
    A quick fix: If you change the color of the "piece or pieces" you need, then go to CUT, you should be able to just cut that color. Sue2
  16. 1 point
    651 is a known element with regards to trouble lifting off the backing. Even Oracal recommends doing as Skeeter suggests (pulling the backing off rather than trying to lift the vinyl off the backing) when circumstances permit, which isn't always an option. Sometimes you can't do it that way of it's a large piece and it has to be taped in a precise spot etc... I always use the highest tack tape I can find ( Rtape 4076) when I use 651 vinyl. It helps a lot. You have to be a little careful pulling it off so you don't un-install the new vinyl.
  17. 1 point
    How are you setting your blade depth? If you're cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper you don't have your blade depth set correctly.
  18. 1 point
    I dove into vinyl cutting with zero experience. There's definitely a learning, curve, but not one that's insurmountable - and I did that pre-YouTube days. Just be patient with yourself, be willing to scour YouTube and forums, then ask. Take it one step at a time, so that would be cutter first. If you're not sure about getting into shirts, or that's way down the road, then focus on getting the best cutter you can with the money you have. Make a little money that way, then you can look into getting yourself a heat press.
  19. 1 point
    VinylMaster has a great YouTube channel with a ton of videos. I just started at the first video with my notepad and a cup of coffee. If I found something I knew I'd want to review later, I wrote down the video name and how many minutes into the video the information was. It will take a couple of days to watch them all but it was well worth it! Now, the downside to their channel is that they suck at telling you which version of VM the command is found in. So you sort of need to follow along in VM and see if the commands they are talking about are available in your version.
  20. 1 point
    I ran my entire business off a laptop for 4 years. I eventually moved to a larger space where I could have a proper desk instead of working off my 4'x8' cutting mat table. I ended up buying a used Dell Optiplex from Craigslist (Intel i5, 8gb RAM, lots of USB ports, 1TB HDD). I stuck a used video card (GTX 750ti) in it, and a 250GB SSD to boot Windows from and install programs on. The last piece of the puzzle was two 27" 1080p Dell monitors I got for $90 each on Black Friday. I have about $450 wrapped up in it, and it's worth every penny. This is everything I have hooked up to it: - Brother monochrome laser printer - Dell Color Laser printer -Zebra Thermal label priner - Sublimation printer - Laser engraver - Vinyl cutter - 3d Printer - External backup drive I was worried that the various drivers would conflict with one another, but I haven't had any problems at all. I use Google Drive to move files from my laptop, which I do some light designing on while watching TV at night on the couch. Having dual monitors was probably the best upgrade from the laptop. Being able to have Corel and VinylMaster open at the same time saves so much time, as well as being able to have Chrome and my shipping label program open at the same time. If I can find a 3rd matching monitor for a decent price, I'm going for it since there is a lonely empty output on my video card. My point is that if you are willing to piece together a desktop with parts that are a generation or two old, you can get a very competent computer that can run your entire business pretty cheap. Just something to think about.
  21. 1 point
    Every vector program basically does the same thing but they each go about it a little differently. I too am not well versed in the VM program and there are different levels of design capability depending on which version you have. (that's a whole other consideration). A border like you mention I am assuming you mean like a thick border maybe 1/2 or 1" thick. You can probably draw a rectangle and then another on top of the first that is smaller and creates the inner line and then subtract the top inner layer form the larger one behind it and it will create a border. Other programs may have you draw a single box and give the line some stroke until you get the desired width then convert the stroke to outlines (because most programs will not cut a stroked line I know that's probably over your head sorry) other programs might have you draw one of the rectangles and then do a path offset either in or out to create the other line and then once again minus the top layer from the bottom to create what's generally known as a compound path (mostly means a path with a hole in it including letters of the alphabet). Just drawing two boxes freehand is probably the least friendly way to do it due to accuracy and symmetry problems. Drawing a line then adding stroke can be problematic because generally stroke straddles the line and will start to crowd into the inside perhaps more than you wanted etc... some programs allow you to define where the stroke sits in relation to the actual line and align centered or to the inside or outside. If you find that your version of VM is not high enough to do some of the things you want you will have to decide if you want to pay for an upgrade or figure something else out. VM is a pretty good design program so you won't go wrong with an upgrade. If you are purely a hobbyist and don't have a budget allowance you can try out Inkscape which is totally free and a fairly well put together vector art program. Once designed in Inkscape (or Adobe Illustrator or Corel if you happen to have either) you can then open the design up in VM and cut it. You can plan to spend some serious time playing around getting familiar with your program but the time is well spent. It's one of the facets of the craft that sort of make or break vinyl cutting. If you give up you'll be limited to basic text runs and things other people build for you (which are often not actually "cut ready")
  22. 1 point
    The way things are going up here in the political world, just had to make this.
  23. 1 point
    And installed. Just having them there will not work in most programs.
  24. 1 point
    each computer will only show the fonts loaded in the system folder on that computer - so if you download fonts on one computer your have to do the same for the other one
  25. 1 point
    ok I am pretty sure I am the oldest on here, wow such talent for youngins, at your ages i still didnt know what i wanted to be when i grew up lol here is my mug shot