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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/11/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    For the 2 or 3 members who were recently in a topic called "help" with a brand new person asking for help. I had to eject them from the conversation and ban them due to immediate attitude, foul language and an apparent unwillingness to take well meaning help with even the slightest grain of salt. I do think sometimes you guys get a little tough on the Mac people and I AM a mac people so I can say that without it being racist. <sarcasm> He/they read the worst possible tone into Skeeters response and while I was trying to send a calm down and rethink your response post he/they posted an f bomb thus ending our association with them. That kind of thing doesn't belong on the forum and I am writing this hoping they read it and realize they probably just pooped in the best bowl of cheerios they could have and good luck finding helpful people on any of the other user forums.
  2. 4 points
    You can look for a used Graphtec cutter also. I picked one up for a very good price a few years ago. You already know what a cutter can and will do.
  3. 3 points
    My bet is on the wrong Command for the software. This is even on the UScutter site. It is the same for all Graphtecs.
  4. 2 points
    r's are different - I am calling custom artwork
  5. 2 points
    I suspect it's the transparent background of PNG and SVG files that occasionally causes problems. Also, be aware, going from png to jpg you can loose some detail, probably not a problem in this case. To preserve detail of a png files and loose the transparent background convert it to a bmp file.
  6. 2 points
    unplug it - quiets right down - but seriously the stepper motor cutters are noisy and just the way they are. buy a graphtec and be amazed at how quiet they are
  7. 2 points
    Servo motor will be more accurate and much quieter than a stepper motor. When it comes to cutters, buy the best that's within your budget. Think of the largest design you think you''l cut, then see if that's a machine that you have the footprint for, or the budget for it. I've had a 24" for 12+ years, and when it was time for me to upgrade, I got a Graphtec 24". Only once was there a request for something much larger than what my machines could handle (and what I could strategically layout with my 24"). For that, I outsourced it and couldn't be happier. I can spare the footprint for a wider machine, but not the work surface needed to properly handle wider vinyl, so I knew better than to shoot myself in the foot by buying a machine I might be able to afford, but realistically couldn't handle the the output product. [I am only willing to clear off my dining room table so many times, and for a very, very short amount of time.]. I can only image what it would be like to try and app tape something wide, without the proper functional space. If you think you'll can get your money back on it, then if you can stretch the budget, see if you can get yourself a Graphtec. I promise, you won't be sorry. No matter what machine you end up with, get yourself a Clean Cut Blade, a 60* one if you think that you'll be cutting itty bitty things, tiny text, or intricate stuff.
  8. 2 points
    I am looking at Titan cutters as we speak and I feel that may be the direction I go... I like the fact it can do contour cutting and that may come in handy considering I have done a few PTC projects with the Circut and understand how that works a little bit. I was really considering the MH but the reviews have lead me away from them...
  9. 2 points
    step up to at least a sc plotter and if you can swing it a titan. many of us that do precision work all the time have worked up over time to the graphtec plotters but that will give you sever sticker shock at this time. I highly recommend not even considering the MH - it is the bottom of the barrel, get em hooked plotter and I am sure you would be greatly disappointed in that level of plotter
  10. 2 points
    Help us out by telling us the make and model of the cutter you do have. Have you tried checking your cutter manufacturer's website to see if they have replacement pinch rollers? FYI - when not using your cutter, I'd recommend the pinch rollers be in the 'up' position, to avoid any potential flat spots.
  11. 2 points
    are you using a vinyl made for shirts - are you using a heat press to apply it? Time, pressure and Temp are all 3 important for HTV
  12. 2 points
    If you really want to open up your world get in to CNC it`s a whole nother world, I love it.
  13. 2 points
    eco solvent and laminate - just make sure you have the business to keep it printing every couple of days or maint cost will eat you alive after spending all that money. I discovered that even with my roland doing multiple cleanings daily on a 3 week vacation I could almost plan on putting at least one $700 head in the printer when I returned - I tried to budget $1K per year maint to keep it printing with no dropped nozzles. Printers are sexy but too many people get them that don't have the business to keep them going without problems
  14. 2 points
    I did not write this. I saved it from another user who had this problem. Maybe it will help. We saw this come up several times for a while. "Fixed problem after 2 hours with tec support and they could not fix so they sent ticket to Australia and said it would be 2-3 days but for some reason 3 hours later they emailed me Can you please go into the Vinyl Spooler, and from the "Settings" menu, ensure that "Force Position" is NOT selected. If it wasn't, go to the connection tab in the vinyl spooler and temporarily change the Port method to "Windows Port" and select "File". Select the file that had the problem and click "Cut now". Instead of sending the data to the cutter, it will prompt you to save a PLT file. Email this PLT file to tbtech@iifuture.com and we will check the cutting data that would be sent to the machine to rule out any software settings for you. But the force position was checked so I unchecked it and tried it and guess what it worked just fine. It didn't even occur to them that it might be checked. So I am a happy camper now. Thanks to all that tried to help me. Go into the Vinyl Spooler, and from the "Settings" menu, ensure that "Force Position" is NOT selected. Also make sure that the vinyl is only about 1 inch from the far right side of the vinyl cutter. "
  15. 1 point
    Make sure that you cutter isn't just on, but online as well. Have you done any test cuts from the control panel of your cutter?
  16. 1 point
    Can you post some pictures of your problem, so we can get a better idea of what you are referring to.? To see if the blade holder arm is broken or what your problem could be. A Vinyl Express R11 series is a rebranded Redsail vinyl cutter.. They were/are sold at Signwarehouse. They have pictures of loading the blade holder on their website.
  17. 1 point
    The difference in a null modem cable and a regular serial cable is 2 of the wires are switched at one end so pin out is different, it has nothing to do with the ends
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    by plug in, do you mean plug the usb cable into the cutter? If so, I would guess 2 options, either the plug on the cutter is wearing out, or the usb cable is wearing out. Try a different cable. If that doesn't work I'd suggest just getting a tripp-lite usb-2-serial adapter and use the serial port on the cutter.
  20. 1 point
    I thought in SignBlazer, if the driver is installed correctly, it shows up as USB001 (number changes depending on which port it's plugged into). The USB on the MH is notoriously bad and may be your problem. If you have a comm port on your computer use that, if not, invest in a tripp-lite usb-2-serial adapter. Other things to cause your oddities, static, do you have the vinyl grounded while it's being cut? Most people accomplish this by grounding the stand to the cutter. You can also by a grounding strap , basically a wire, that hangs from the cutter and drags on the vinyl. You may have a random stray node in your design. Have you tried a simple design, a square, or some text typed into the cutting software?
  21. 1 point
    Hello, I am venturing into the sublimation side of the business. I have been reading several posts on here about different techniques etc. One thing I have thought I learned from here is that in order to sublimation on clothing it has to be at least 65% polyester and white or silver. Now I find at UScutter this FOREVER Subli Flex 202 Sublimation Paper for Dark and Cotton Garments. Has anyone tried this with any luck? I would still be willing to use the polyester blend if it actually works on darker colors. If anyone has any experience with this I would appreciate your feedback before I might waste my time and money! Thank you, Christi
  22. 1 point
    You're getting the hang of it, and will indeed grow into the unit and take advantage of whatever specific capabilities you may require. We appreciate your putting the effort into making User videos! Especially love the fact you're doing them in your underwear! (just kidding!) This is a machine a friend of mine got recently, (a cheapo Vevor off-brand Chinese unit for $300 or so, and she LOVES the lighting effect, she actually runs the thing in a darkened room, just for the ambience it provides).
  23. 1 point
    Again, I am a noob so that is part of the problem. Yes you can advance the cutter on the screen with the back and forth arrows and yes that will set the origin for that cut. In the advanced menu, I did find an option to set the origin, advance cut at end of cut and something else I cannot remember. I outlined this on a new video I am posting this weekend as I familiarize myself more with the machine. You guys can see the menus more from there.
  24. 1 point
    Skeeter is basically saying that you probably have two copies of the design, one on top of the other. This is why it is cutting twice.
  25. 1 point
    Both Sanmar and S&S Activewear will do ones and twos also and at same pricing for 1 piece or 1000 pieces.