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  1. 9 likes
    Finally decided to play around with the laser some. After much back and forth I finally bought one. Probably not the wisest investment, but it has been fun and the wife is loving the random bits around the house we've made so far for samples. These are laser etched and cut plywood tiles to look like a Scrabble layout. An acrylic coaster with some engraved initials. And after some inspiration from Go-C I dabbled in making a base and edge lit a small piece of Acrylic. Let me know now what you guys think! Feedback welcome.
  2. 6 likes
    Built a 4ft X 4ft CNC Machine. This is the latest final of the SIGNS sign. Just need to clear coat and hang at the shop. mark-s
  3. 6 likes
    After a 2 month build on a custom 4 ft X 4 ft CNC machine, half the time was waiting on parts. It is up and running. First cut was shop space numbers. Made from Norwegian Birch. And then on to the good stuff. Masked and Painted then cut. mark-s
  4. 6 likes
    1st off I would like to thank everyone on this forum for all that you contribute to all of us newbie's! I would have never gained the courage to attempt doing HTV without all of your knowledge. Also I can't believe how addicting this HTV is! So here's my 1st "real order" of 12 shirts for a business.
  5. 6 likes
    You're awesome @skarekrow Your vector work came out amazing. Thanks again. https://ledlightbases.com/
  6. 5 likes
    I got a request to do a window decal of this design for a customer, and thought others might want a copy of it as well. The customer had seen it cut from "etched-glass" vinyl and applied to a tinted car window - personally I had never thought of using that material on a tinted window, but the picture they sent made it look good. I could not find a free vector copy of this version online - I found several of the 50 piece snake, but not this 8 piece design, so I found a hi-res JPG of the original image, cleaned it up, tweaked the contrast and then fed it to Vector Magic. I did a lot of node cleanup to make it a little simpler and took out some of the rough edges, plus re-typed the text to be cleaner. I'm reasonably certain that Ben Franklin's copyright has expired by now on the original design, and I hereby grant full rights to all of you to use this file as you please for all personal and commercial use. Enjoy! Join or Die.eps
  7. 5 likes
    I'm going to start marketing LED light up garage signs. These are my first examples. 2017-07-25 23.39.48.mov 2017-07-25 23.26.02.mov
  8. 5 likes
    house brands like greenstar usually don't put a name on the back - won't use em but that is an option - oracal and 3m put their name on the back fdc does sometimes but a lot of time theirs is blank and better choice than house brands. Personally I advertise I use oracal and 3m to show I use quality products and am very Leary of people that sell no name vinyl. IMHO
  9. 4 likes
    Right around 31K miles - never seen rain much less snow
  10. 4 likes
    I had a small powder coating business that I lost to a fire. Did a lot of sandblasting and everything they have said above is true. I also can't stress enough how important controlling the dust is! Silicosis is a very serious issue. - Most tractor supply type companies carry a handful of different grits and have good prices. - Always watch for moisture in your grit. If it gets damp it's useless and nearly impossible to dry out. - If you like to tinker, look into building a pressure pot. A siphon uses most of your air volume sucking up the grit. A pressure put pushes the grit to the gun with just a small amount of air, so the majority of your CFM can be used for blasting. They can be difficult to get dialed in right at first, but they are incredible once you're over the learning curve. - Really spend some time pretending to use a cabinet before you buy one. I found all the arm holes were too close together and five minutes using one would kill my back. So I built my own with multiple arm holes set to different widths. I could blast a whole motorcycle frame without ever opening the door. Some of them I tried wouldn't let you reach in far enough to manipulate the item you were blasting. - Any time you're dealing with fine dust (sandblast, drywall, finish sanding) a "Dust Deputy" from Oneida is worth it's weight in gold. It's a simple cyclonic separator that really does it's job. I added an exhaust port of pvc to my cabinet and ran it to the Dust Deputy and then to a shop vac. Before hand, the shop vac filter had to be cleaned every 15 minutes. Afterwards I could run 5 hours or more.
  11. 4 likes
    Most blast cabinets come with a siphon blaster, so no need for an air eraser, you'd quickly out grow it anyway. Bench cabinets are nice, but the one downfall they pretty much all have, is the sides of the bottom are not steep enough to get media to slide to the bottom where the siphon intake is located. They work well enough, but not as well as a self standing unit with steeper sides. And just a quick note on siphon blasters, do not bury the entire metal siphon under the media, the top of it should be up in open air. (took me awhile to figure that one out ) Personally I'd skip the HF unit. The problem with theirs and several others in the low price range is that it is put together with nuts and bolts and as a result has a lot of places for media to leak out. This can be fixed with sealant, but for just a bit more you can find a cabinet that is all one piece. Usually Rotomolded plastic. Nothertool has one for about $200. As for grit, that depends on the look you like. The higher/finer the grit, the more of a dusting effect the etch will have. The lower/course grit will give a courser surface. For glass I like something around 120 grit. They type of media also plays a factor, for glass Aluminum Oxide is pretty common. It's not too expensive, and lasts pretty long. Even with a blast cabinet you should still consider some sort of respirator or dust mask, no such thing as being too safe. Lastly, get as big of an air compressor as you can afford. Blasting uses quite a bit of air and a small compressor will be running constantly to keep the air supply going and as a result quickly burn itself out. I have a 10 gallon unit, it works well, but it does run a bit more often than I'd like. One thing that confused me in the beginning was looking at the require CFMs of a blaster vs the CFMs of a compressor. The two do not have to be matched up. Once the tank of the compressor is full, it will provide what ever the blaster needs, it'll only be restricted by the hoses and fittings. Where the CFM of the compressor comes into play is how long it will take to refill the tank. So if you compressor has a higher CFM, you can blast non stop. If your compressor has a lower CFM you will need to pause every now and then and give the compressor time to refill the tank. Also, the larger diameter hose you can get, the better. Larger diameters will allow higher CFM, should try to go 1/2" at the min.
  12. 4 likes
    well this wasn't what I was looking to do right now. but it was def something in my head when I purchased my cutter . was just waiting until I upgraded cutters and computer 1st. then a friend hit me up fri afternoon wanting shirts printed for his new business for a meeting 7/25. I started looking who could get me a press here in time. that def made a challenge. while I was shopping for my cutter and every time U S has a sale . Ive looked at about every brand . and had somewhat decided to order 1 of the 15x15 swing arm models from here. I did get to talk with a couple sales reps. from a couple companies, it was too late to get something from any of them. so I got on the only web site I knew I might be able to get something before mon. even on there options were slim to get it here. finally found something. not at all what I wanted, but I figured it would get the job done and I was out very lil $. so I ended up with a 9x12 swing arm del sun. I already had some siser htv . so today I got it set up and started. I believe I like this better than any of the other stuff ive done with my cutter in the past yr .so I guess its time to really get busy in my vinyl biz so I can afford about 5k in upgrades. pics of my 1st project
  13. 4 likes
    Here are a few more from 2 weeks ago.
  14. 4 likes
    QUOTE> What i'm looking for is a way where I can cut the box without cutting the star shape out. Vm's Vector Module Defaults to an 'Inlaid' Layering Scheme and Traces the Path of the Star into the Box. There is a Check Box labled "Solid Contours Only" (red circle). Tick this and it will produce a 'Stacked' vector with your Red Box solid, beneath the Yellow star. Then you can just 'Cut by Color' to produce the bottom layer without the Star 'cutout'.
  15. 4 likes
    It takes time and experience to learn how it all works. The trick is YOU need to re-adjust your thinking. That is way I suggested some business classes. If your county doesn't offer any go to the next county and pay the $20-40 it cost for not being a resident of that county. Trust me it's worth it. The reason counties offer classes like this is because they want people like you building businesses and bringing in more money for the county. Don't give up and keep searching You have to ask yourself "Why are people coming to me for this?" The answer................ because they don't know how to do it or have the means to do it. That's powerful right there. For a long time I would think to myself why on earth anyone would pay $20 for a 4"x12" decal. It's so easy to make and only cost about $.75 in material. Because they can't and you can. When I'm out there getting paid $60 an hour to remove graphics it's because they don't want to and they will pay that much so they don't have to. Once you start doing this more you'll hear customers say "Man, I could never do that without messing up." That statement right there is why I get paid what I do. Because I've spent the time to learn; Graphics, vectors, cutting vinyl, taping up vinyl, proper ways to remove vinyl, installing vinyl, billing, accounting, expenses, profits, advertising, selling, dealing with cheap people, and LEARNING TO WALK AWAY. Knowledge is extremely valuable. It's taken many years to learn all this but it's paying off. None of this is natural thinking and has to be learned. Time to re-adjust your think. You see a $.75 decal on the table you just made. I see $20 that someone is willing to pay for something they can't make.
  16. 3 likes
    Don't forget to MIRROR-MIRROR-MIRROR your graphics!!! Nothing worse than holding up your freshly cut & weeded design and realizing it is backwards! HTV is fun but a few more steps than regular vinyl...time intense but fun. Sue2
  17. 3 likes
    Yes it is.. BUT....that is where I found the answers to your problem....I didn't have a clue, just did some searching......
  18. 3 likes
    I wrapped these up today. I have had some ideas, and finally put them into reality. I am really liking the back cut ( similar to Perf cut) function- decals just pop out the back.
  19. 3 likes
    regular price for the most part unless I have a personal connection to them . . . give them some once for free and you will have 10 more at your door next week looking for freebies
  20. 3 likes
    Thanks @Wildgoose I've been struggling for a few years to find a market I enjoyed making stuff for and that isn't completely saturated with people. Now all I need to do is find a happy price point.
  21. 3 likes
    All I ask is that you please don't tell Slice and Dice that SCALP is better than SignBlazer or we will have world war three on here.......
  22. 3 likes
    Thank you ,I do my best ,, I spend many hours on the phone with people from here and in live view thru my computer using teamviewer12 which is free on the web, teaching anyone who needs help with scalps who already own it, want to see how it works ,and how to use Ai with scalps for what i know thanks to you .I have also spent many many hours helping in designing as well and never asked for a dime.... @cardudenc will vouch for that, I never trash talk any program.When i see someone struggling with a software cause maybe they dont know about scalps4pro since VM came out and scalps was pushed to the side, so i just offer a different alternative that can be purchased from craftedge and now go get it from uscutter if they choose to. I probably spend a min 5 -8 hours a night after working helping people from here privately and for free. And i know im not the only one who probably does this .
  23. 3 likes
    You're a good guy Dwayne and have and do help a lot of folks out. We NEED a SCALP guru around just like having someone capable of helping out with SignBlazer, Inkscape and so on.
  24. 3 likes
  25. 3 likes
    I have no idea which OS, I have seen this this posted over the years from SC users. I would say more people bought SC than a Laser point. Years back all cutters were sold with SCALP. But SCALP had too many problems...So USCutter went to Vinyl Master for PC but had to have an option for Mac So there is still SCALP
  26. 3 likes
    Thanks for the sentiment but, Actually it cuts fine with the blade extended all the way, so I have been able to do some cutting. My biggest disappointment is I bought a Demo/refurb model, and I would think this kind of thing would be eliminated...not sure how they refurbed and or demo'd it withour the orrect blade holder, but stuff happens. I always try to look on the bright side in situations like this, and I learned a lot about this machine in the first 2 days from the couple of issues I had (had a loose connection on the right side shut off micro switch also). If everything went perfect I wouldn't know much about it at all.
  27. 3 likes
    This is one of those situations where I actually PREFER the GS vinyl. It is a bit thicker, still cuts pretty easy and will come back off a little easier. If there are super intricate elements then I use a piece of scrap cast but it's thinner so you have to be more careful you don't blow a piece off. If you go with a cabinet (I did the same HF as the two previous I think) be sure and get a pressure regulator so you can tone it down a bit. Glass is super sweet to blast.
  28. 3 likes
    Might also try calling customer service again and talk to a different tech. Who ever it was you talked to that told you to kept extending the blade doesn't know how to do their job.
  29. 3 likes
    I regularly use 651 or the Greenstar equivalent with good results. For glassware I use a small Harbor Freight sandblast cabinet; with air pressure about 60 psi. Keep the gun moving, I go over the area 4 times, rotating the glass each time. I get a good even & deep etch this way. For new designs and playing around I use glass jars out of the recycle pail. Cal PS - a while back I posted up some tips for masking up glassware for quick production work. You will find that you spend more time wrapping the glass up and unmasking than it takes to blast it.
  30. 3 likes
    The machine was built from scratch, everything was over built to with stand anything. There is a 3/4 inch steel plate used as a strong back (can`t be seen in photos) for the motor Z axis. Instead of 1/2 inch sides had a friend cut out on his CNC 3/4 inch aluminum, all motors are the best and strongest that could be found. My friend also turned some parts on his metal lathe so we could get extra beefer patrs. This thing is bullet proof. mark-s
  31. 3 likes
    personally I would try lowering the slider for level of detail to maintain . . . but as stated above it is a simple design and would be much better to recreate it as a vector to begin with for a crisp clean image
  32. 3 likes
    And even if you do, it will not come out right...Just recreate it. Too easy. You should not vector Fonts. Find the font and recreate. It's only a football with a number. Just make a football and duplicate them,
  33. 3 likes
    Like everyone says 10 times too much blade but something else is wrong so best to get with support to fix or replace while new
  34. 3 likes
    You definitely have something wacko and hopefully can get squared away. Once you are fixed up adjust your blade depth. Like mentioned in an early answer your blade exposure is hurting my eyes. I realize to new people it seems like it shouldn't make a difference but it ABSOLUTELY DOES. Follow Skeeters directions and you can avoid a lot of future frustration due to improper blade depth.
  35. 3 likes
    Hello guys i dont know if im the only one that need it a stand for the 15 inch titan. Here is what i created for under $20 home depot materials I now is not perfect, made my life easier and i just want it to share it in case you guys wants to do something like that
  36. 3 likes
    So while you are writing this, why don't you download the trial version and get to work. until you get the code? You could have already been working. The trial versions are available for both Vinyl Master and Sure Cuts A lot.,and Signcut. which ever you chose. Many people still just like the FREE version of Signblazer and have been using it for years, as long as you have Windows PC. You have more options, you just didn't seek those options out, Instead of throwing some childish tantrum, you could have just asked the forum what you could do until you got the Key. Super nice people here, who volunteer their time to help...With that attitude for a business, you might as well send the cutter back now, and nobody here will care. You won't last long. This job requires patience,
  37. 3 likes
    As I said, I have no formal training or education in graphic art or anything. It's also what he wanted Looking at it from a customers standpoint I want my dollars spent to be maximized. I have seen so many pickup trucks and job trailers lettered up with so much information and/or bad color choices that you can't even tell what that company does. I want to be able to read the name and number from across the street while driving by.Just my .02
  38. 3 likes
    actually you have made a very solid choice on equipment - lots of people move up to those after years of messing with lower quality equipment
  39. 3 likes
    @Wildgoose Very well said and explained buddy. I dont charge for estimates either. I will give a close ballpark and not spend tons of time just in case i dont get it ,But i always mention i will take care of my customers if there is ever a problem, And there hasnt been one yet. I havent been outbid yet. I also let them know there is no design fee and that i use top grade material . I had to do one bid one time and they told me what they wanted ,never seen anything but a flyer with a name they wanted done and they told me what the big boy shop was charging which was around $1200 and they needed the vehicle for 3 days at least, and i knew i had it in the bank cause of who it was . So I gave a bid of about $800 and i had it done in a few hours, It cost me about $100 in material . I was happy with what i made for a few hours work.Plus it was at a lake with great view . They were ecstatic and how well it turned out,the money they saved etc .And they plastered my name all over their website . Dont ever get discouraged when you dont get something ,Just know that if they ever come back to that you just mark it up a little lol..
  40. 3 likes
    If you need a loupe to see an imperfection, you've 'bout got it nailed.
  41. 3 likes
    How's this? AR15.eps
  42. 2 likes
    Dry application is risky for a layered job - you cant move into position - No I would not use a heatgun. Your customer needs a better paint job before you do any more work.
  43. 2 likes
    2 red flags to me immediately are you used a calandared vinyl on the body panes that should have had cast vinyl used - 2nd is with poor paintwork NO vinyl application would be warranted if proper material had been used. Alcohol takes off most wax and instead of soapy water I would use a product like rapidtac
  44. 2 likes
    thanks guys i finally got it working downloaded signblazer and picked a totally different driver and it worked.
  45. 2 likes
    Pretty similar here. I have seen however that my super close friends that I try not to charge almost get offended that I won't charge and either still stuff some cash in my hand or will stop asking if I can do things because they don't want to take advantage of my generosity.
  46. 2 likes
    Your cutter is made by Liyu,,the same as SC.and from what I have read about the SC on here by users,,,you either have Fast or SUPER SLOW. No one is replying that has a Laser pointer. Just my observation from reading...Maybe someone will chime in that has a Laser pointer.. .and can tell you if their cutter is the same. .
  47. 2 likes
    once again scalp hits - - - so many times we have seen stuff like this fixed with updates or changing software . . . .
  48. 2 likes
    We usually discourage messing with the pinch roller tension. (Whoop Arty beat me to it before I got my reply done.) You should see the pinch roller marks on my Summa. Not even usable in that area and I just cut inside the rollers. Most of the rest of the cutter world use wider pinch rollers and somewhat lighter pressures so they can get away with cutting and using the area under them. Try using just two and work inside the rollers when possible. Vinyl is inexpensive and a half inch or so wasted along the edges usually won't kill you. Otherwise, if the cut goes ok through the roller area the marks will go away like Arty mentioned and it won't likely be a problem long term.
  49. 2 likes
    DO NOT ADJUST THE PINCH ROLLERS!!! The dents and cross hatch patterns will go away after installation. Too many people screw up their cutters by changing the pinch roller adjustments. I've been cutting vinyl since 2010 using 6 different machines and have never had to touch the pinch roller adjustment. Temperature will affect the vinyl in very hot conditions. That was why I stopped cutting vinyl on the road during the summer months.
  50. 2 likes
    Agree with Dakota, rock solid choices you won't regret for the cutter and press. As for printing, get yourself some durabrite ink for your printer and you can do transfers. If you can only print 8.5"x11" you will find that you want to upsize later but you can get some designs to fit. If your printer is something that can handle bigger sheets you can look into aftermarket ink and save a lot of money. I do a little shirt work with Jet Pro Soft Stretch (JPSS) now and then. Works great on pure white cotton or cotton/poly. I keep some 3G transfer paper for dark fabrics on hand for the occasional need but I really don't like the feel of ANY of the offerings for dark fabrics so I try to steer people toward HTV if at all possible. I am a die hard Siser Easyweed user. I have tried out several other brands without complaints but prefer the Siser overall. Especially the Siser Stretch. I do a LOT of HTV work. Just found that most of the other brands have varied application temps and dwell times and cold/warm or hot peel variations and Siser is more uniform as a hot peel (much faster production) and pretty well universal lower temperature. By keeping it all the same I don't have to pay attention too closely unless I have a special need that changes the set-up.