Painting A Sign Background

[z9ack 0]

Thanks for taking the time to read my post. I am looking for any advice on painting the background of a sign and then putting vinyl lettering/graphics on it. We are using a two sided poly metal substrate(Aluminum 4 x 8 ). We primed (123 Bullseye) and painted using an

 

Exterior Satin (Valspar Medallion) 

• 100% Acrylic durability
• Mildew resistant finish
• Paint and primer in one product
• Washable, stain resistant
• Soap and water clean-up
• Low odor, low VOC

We let it cure for 72 hours. We then went to put our vinyl graphics on(Wet Application) and they did not stick. Even after letting them sit and dry over night. We used both rapid Tac and soap water thinking that the wet application was the issue. 

 

Vinyl is Oracal 651

 

This is our first large outdoor sign and any advice on the process for preparing and painting(Specific Brands or Types Used) it would be greatly appreciated. 

[Jay2703 704]

In my experience the paints that are Washable, stain resistant seem to have an additive that makes things not want to stick (including vinyl) I would have put vinyl behind instead or used automotive paint.

[Wildgoose 4,200]

Yeah, What kind of cleaning did you do on the new paint? Soap is bad. If you use soap then you need to go through a whole second cleaning to remove the soap residue. I usually clean with a mixture of 10-20% denatured alcohol and water. It's cheap and works good for basic cleaning. Some of the wet app products claim to be good for pre-cleaning too and it makes sense that they would be but they are more expensive. You would want to get it squeaky clean by using some alcohol to wipe it down as a final step after the other efforts you already went through. I use 90% rubbing alcohol but I think 70% rubbing alcohol works fine too. I'm always a little creeped out trying to put vinyl on fresh paint. I too would have just ran a color layer of vinyl under then lettered over the top. The wet app might be the culprit but if it is then the soap water probably ruined things for you in my opinion and if you still have the graphic its probably junk due to the residue. Rapid Tac wouldn't have hurt you. Silly question but you did squeegee the fluid out I hope. Vinyl adhesive is pressure sensitive wet or dry and you still have to get some pressure on there and particularly with wet app you have to chase the app fluid out from between the vinyl and the substrate. After a good squeegee I let my wet apps sit for about 15 minutes and then usually wet down the transfer paper and let it soak a minute to help release from the front of the vinyl and it will usually come right off. Sometimes small lettering will fight you. I don't wet app unless I have real big hunks of vinyl that I am afraid will trap air or that I need to be able to move a little before final placement.   

[knucklehead 530]

You won't get vinyl to adhere to that paint, I guess you know that already. The paint has teflon, or silicon in it to make it stain resistant, which also makes it vinyl resistant. Get a new piece, or sand that one down, and start over with correct type of paint. Ronan, Matthews, some Sherwin Williams, oil based enamel. Or, use automotive paint.

[Monkey 252]

Temperature will play a roll as well with 651 and rapid tac. It does not like to stick in that combination if surface is too cold. Doesnt take much either, I found out the hard way. I hear Rapid Tac 2 is better for colder applications.

[slice&dice 2,450]

Temperature will play a role as well with 651 and rapid tac. It does not like to stick in that combination if surface is too cold. Doesnt take much either, I found out the hard way. I hear Rapid Tac 2 is better for colder applications.

 

Perhaps you heard about the cold-weather adhering abilities of RapidTac 2 RIGHT HERE --

[skarekrow 1,842]

Call me 'ol' school but I would never use a water-based primer or finish over a metal substrate.

 

There are plenty that will argue otherwise... They'll (correctly) argue that alkyd and epoxy based coatings will yellow in time.

Or they're safer for the enviroment and easier to work with and clean up.Everything has it's pros and cons.

It's just been my experience that oil-based coatings are more durable and have a much longer lifespan than water-bourne products.

 

Still hangin' in there with Rustoleum and One Shot coating products.

[jaybyrd 3,770]

Basecoat/clearcoat here. If it'd good enough for my car...

[mabscotthandyman 1,410]

I use an all purpose oil base primer from Sherwin Williams I also use a scotch brite pad to ruff up the finish if there is a finish already applied. I then sand the primer with 320 sandpaper and recoat let dry resand then apply the finish coats. I will use a good quality acrylic paint because it has a better uv resistance. Oil base paints especially dark reds fade fairly quick. I have never tried the automotive finished but like Jay said good enough for a car definatly good for a sign.

Why painting the dia-bond they have several colors was there none close enough for the customer?