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Found 8 results

  1. I volunteer as a high school archery coach and it was time for senior night. We needed something to present to our graduating archers. I found these 7.75" glass trivets at the dollar store (for $1) and decided to give them a try as a plaque. I used 8 mil sandblast vinyl cut on my Graphtec and placed the stencil on the textured side of the glass. Blast media was 80 grit aluminum oxide from Tractor Supply shot at 60psi.
  2. rocky53204

    experimental efforts on glass

    I am newbie experimenting with signage techniques on glass. I used 'rub n buff' sample pack on the first sign on which the text was sandblasted. I do not like the result of the metallic rub n buff. It is messy as well. The vinyl mask was mirror cut, weeded and then applied to the back of the 8X10 glass. I think it looks better without sandblasting with colored paper behind it. (As on the second sign pictured.) Experiments by definition are not always a success... What do you think?
  3. rocky53204

    stuff i made for my sister

    My sister Nancy is nicknamed Fancy Nancy. She recently had a new deck built so I made her a sign. For practice I also made some sandblasted items... mirror, container, and 'lefty' coffee cup.
  4. Hey guys, I'm trying my hand out at sandblasting some stone. I've got access to some basic sandblast equipment and plenty of stone to practice on. I'm using the Hartco 930. My question is how you guys apply the stencil. Do you just apply the stencil straight to the stone and then weed it once it's on there? Or do you weed the stencil like it was regular vinyl and then add transfer paper to get it onto the stone. The stones I'm using aren't smooth polished surfaces if that makes a difference. They are rough. The design I'm practicing with is just some basic shapes. No small detailed intricacies or letters or anything. I played with it and got my cutter to cut the stencil great. Any tips for the rest would be awesome. Thanks guys!
  5. I have recently purchased the 53" Titan 3 to primarily cut sandblast mask. I have used multiple 60 degree blades and tried various speed and force settings. I am wondering if I just do not have the proper combination. We have used lasers in the past to cut our vinyl but have decided to try the cutter route. We know multiple other companies that use and have always used cutters only to cut their mask. They have much more expensive cutters, but was really hoping, based on what I've read, this cutter would work for us. The images attached were cut at 350 force, 150 speed, with a 60 degree blade. the depth is perfect, just a very sloppy cut. Any and all help wold be appreciated.
  6. CarolinaTraffic

    All This Talk About Etching....

    All this talk about etching glass got me a little ancy. So I decided to go grab an air eraser and give it a shot. These are my first three efforts and I think they turned out all right given it was my first try. I plan to make some Christmas presents for some family and friends so I wanted to get some practice under my belt in preparation. The first try was a simple word down the side of a 22oz beer bottle. The second was a little bigger on a 1 gallon cider bottle I use for making starters when brewing beer. And the last was a transparent clip board. On the clip board I mirrored the image and blasted it in reverse on the back side so the writing surface would remain smooth.
  7. I have read every thread in this forum I believe and I still cannot come up with a good answer. Any advice would be MOST appreciated. As near as I can tell, the ability to cut sandblast resist is a function of the correct blade (60 degree) and amount of downforce applied (250 grams +) As I look at the comparison chart, I find that many of the USCutter branded cutters have ample downforce, especially the Laserpoint II which lists downforce maximum at 800 grams! I don't know if that's a typo or not but thats a lot of downforce. However, when you look at what these machines CAN'T cut it clearly lists SANDBLAST RESIST. I am confused. Many of the USCutter machines have more downforce than the so called PRO machines that are listed as being able to cut sandblast resist so what is the story? It appears that I should be able to cut HARTCO 425 easily with the Laserpoint and maybe even the HARTCO 535. HELP!
  8. Hello Everyone, I have never joined a forum before so I hope this works. I am a newby sandblaster and have jumped in with both feet. I work with glass and stone, both with blastmask and photoresist. Currently I have a mentor who has all the equipment but I am now starting to get my own together. I purchase a magnum force cutter package from SCM, but I still haven't been able to use it after more than a month. The people at APD have been great, sending replacement pieces and working with me to try to get it working but.... The company I purchased it from has been sketchy in their help. It was advertised as being compatible with corelDraw but now I find that was corel 11 & 12 (old, old, old!!) and since I am using Corel X5 it won't work. I need a plottercutter (affordable) that has a minimum of 500 gr pressure as I only cut mask, not vinyl. Also I am looking for a photoresist UV letralite if anyone knows an inexpensive retailer of 1. I am really looking forward to reading about your hints, tips and experiences thanks