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I have used my US Cutter Laserpoint for many years. I just moved my business and of course had to disconnect everything to move but NOW Signblazer will not connect with my cutter. Basically nothing has changed other than the com port but now my computer sees it as a USB port (COM 2) rather than just a COM port. I'm still using the same cords, computer, OS, and of course orders still come in. Can anyone troubleshoot for me? The settings keep defaulting to this. I've tried changing them but they never stay. Donna

Sorry in advance if this has been covered, I could not find anything so I picked up a Vevor 720 machine, it was cheap but did not have anything with it other then the usb and power cable, the seller said he got it in what sounded like a storage locker sale or something I have signblazer currently on my laptop , I connected the usb but could not reach the cutter. I didn’t think it would be that easy anyway so, is there a driver available for this cutter is there a link somewhere for sign master software or Is there a way I can connect my current signblazer to it thanks

Good design and cutting software with updates is NOT free.. There are people who use Signblazer, which is an unlimited trial. For Windows.. It has not been updated for probably 10 years. I do not use it. You have to choose a software that is compatible with your computer operating system AND your vinyl cutter. The Graphtec site tells you what is compatible if choosing Graphtec software. You can purchase, VinylMaster, Sure cuts alot, Signcut, Flexi software. And some others if you search. You can also purchase design software. Or Inkscape.org is FREE design. This is considered a skilled job, that you may need to invest some money into, to get the results that you are seeking.

Let's rewind and start again. 1. I already offered you a place to obtain the last release version of SignBlazer (hot-linked in my posting, just click on the blue words "download and install") Turn off your virus defender, otherwise you're gonna have it prevent download/install (due to the internal 'crack' scheme, but the program is fine & dandy, not a trojan or malware). https://www.mediafire.com/file/fjk69hgu2cpnr16/signblazer_setup.exe/file 2. "As for the VCP (USB emulation of Serial) I've had good luck with the STM virtual com port " https://mydrivers.online/software/stm32-virtual-com-port-driver It says right there VCP = virtual com port Download it, install it, and plug in your machine. Open SignBlazer and go to CUTTER SETUP, you should see that STM listed. After you successfully do what I've indicated, get back to us. (I am ignoring all reference to the USB serial adapter, you shouldn't have to go that route, just stick with the straight USB connection)

I have 4 titan cutters, two titan#1 15"...one titan#2 28"...one titan#3 15". The new titan 3 stops shortly after cutter about 4 words. I checked cables, turned everything off and back on again, reinstalled software. and still having the same problem. The other 3 titan cutters periodically stop in the middle of a job but usually I reboot everything and it cuts ok for quite a while. Has anyone had any success in fixing this problem. I did call tech support but nothing they say seems to work. I have used titan cutter for about 4 years now and I really like them except for this problem.

I have two cutters attached to my Win10Pro PC (i5, 32GB RAM, 256GB SSD) Titan 2 and Graphtec CE6000, both connected via USB I currently run SCAL4 and SCAL4Pro. I generally run jobs around 36" in length containing various designs (script wording, soccer balls, pirate ships, etc.) If I run a small job (one or two designs) the end cut is perfect. Nice clean edges. If I run a large job (36" of many designs) then the cuts start to lose detail, almost like the cutters are skipping nodes. It's always on the smaller designs (5" and smaller) with detail. I've attached an example of what both of my cutters are doing. I've swapped USB cables, swapped PC's, tried different USB ports, checked for PC chipset upgrades, PC upgrades, and attempted a support conversation with Craft Edge (went nowhere.) I'm going to try SCAL5 to see if that has any impact. Not a fan of 5 but if this fixes our issue then i can live with that. Does anyone have anything I could try to fix this? many thanks Chris

I seem to be expereincing nearly the same issue "You need the Titan Edition to run this plotter" traded a motorcycle for this plotter. and assuming this is the right software. Its a titan 3, driver for titan3 SE/ titan3 both installed to the same result with each. I'm on the demo version before I buy, attempting to print the 1 handicap demo template. Calibration Blade offset works perfect and all calibration nodes, as soon as I hit "cut/area test" gives me this information popup. I looked up as much as I could before contacting. watched tutorials downloaded this fix from the initial commenter still not working. Thank you in advance!

You need to find a forum for crafting vinyl cutters. and crafting software.( Cricuts). Most people here use full size vinyl cutters, and either Vinyl Master, Flexi, Sure Cuts A lot and Signblazer cutting software.

Is Signblazer compatible with a USCutter MH871? I don't see the cutter listed under the program's cutter setup but I do see "Generic DMPL" and "Generic HPGL" listed.

Have you tried to use Free inkscape design software or Free Signblazer design/ cut? Both soft wares have more features than Vinyl Master Cut. I think in Signblazer people are using the COPAM driver to cut with the Titans. Many people didn't want to give up Signblazer, when they got new cutters. Signblazer is abandonware, but it is a full featured software. Just not updated, because owner passed away. Designs not created in Signblazer, like created in illustrator are exported version 8 .eps for Signblazer.

Perf cut is in the cutting software. I do not own this cutter, Just showing how by a video. I don't know of 1 person on here that answers questions (only a handful) that has a Titan 3.

Good evening everyone, So I recently purchased a Titan 3 68" about a week ago, and I've been tinkering around with it and it seems to be pretty a solid upgrade from my trusty MH 871-MK2 I used for years. The speed, and quietness is pretty nice. Racing is how I got into this whole deal, and I've been doing cars with manual vinyl for about 5 years. I recently stumbled across a good HP Latex at the beginning of the year, and have finally got it running. So I needed a cutter to go along with it, and I've been happy with my US Cutter MH 871 for years, a lot of people frown on them, but you just need to learn how to adapt around the machine. I've made tons of money with it. Doing vinyl work is a side gig for me, my day job is a mechanical engineer. So I didn't want to jump into the big penny Graphtec's right off the bat. As I was unsure how all this would unfold for me. So that being said, alignment with the Titan 3. I feel like I have most the kinks worked out, but I am having alignment issues front to back, not so much side to side. I line my vinyl up, even out the pinch rollers on the sides, and check for no to minimal skew from front to back of the work. I just got done with doing a piece, and it seems like it was off consistently about 1/16" to 1/8" front to back, but right on the money left to right with maybe a bit of variance. This was about a 35" long piece. Now, that being said I am laminating these prints, and I am half wondering if the barcode markings are "curling" when the laser reads over them and that is causing my misalignment issue front to back. I am just looking for some input here as to how to better set myself up for success with contour cutting. When cutting laminated pieces, do you recommend rolling the vinyl up and leaving it over night to fight against the curling at the edges? Should I be recalibrating the cutter daily? Do you prefer the barcode scanner, or using the ARMS scanner? I am pretty confident I will get this all figured out, just takes some time and patience. Leave your input, if it doesn't help me, it may help some others in the future. Thanks!

Apologies for the Tolstoy. I should stress that I have successfully used this setup, but some of it really doesn't make sense to me. A while back I bought a gimpy old 24" vinyl cutter off someone for cheap. A JSI 24. I'm a very technical guy and was up for the challenge for the $60 I paid. The guy selling it didn't know what was wrong with it. I think he took it home from work or something. It looks exactly, precisely, like a Creation P-Cut 630. And the P-Cut 630 manual includes instructions for driving the control panel on top that exactly match what I see on mine, other than branding and firmware version. The motherboard is branded "King Cut". I've seen people say that this machine is mostly the same as a CoPam 2500? JSI appears to still exist as a company that just sells sign making supplies. I discovered that the physical db25 serial port had been very poorly soldered to the ribbon cable that goes to the motherboard, and then abused a bit so that at least one line was broken and some lines were shorted together. That gray ribbon cable isn't meant to be soldered at all so it takes a fair bit of care to do a good job. I was able to fix this. The serial port works now. I am inching toward cobbling together an internal usb converter circuit that will plug into the socket that the MAX232CPE occupies on the motherboard. Already designed and printed the connector plate and have some ch340 modules with full hardware flow control output. I just have to figure out how the serial lines were mapped to the different ins and outs on the max232. Initially, I figured I would use InkCut, since it's open-source and I'm an open-source kinda guy, and because I'm just farting around and not running a sign shop or making commercial t-shirts or anything. But it doesn't appear to, ah, work. It has got out of sync with some of the libraries it depends on and the developers are MIA, and I don't have the skills to fix it. It's a shame because i sort of know my way around Inkscape a little bit, and I just wanted something that will take an svg and drive the cutter. But it was not to be. This cutter has what appear to be two end-stop switches at either end of the carriage. Coming from my 3d printer and CNC experience, I'd presumed that these would be used to allow the firmware and software to self-home the cutting head. This is not the case. After getting tired of hearing the X motor grind the cutter against the right-hand end of the carriage (the end with the control panel) I investigated and found that one of the wires on that switch was broken. After repairing that connection, I discovered that pressing either of these apparent end-stop switches causes the motherboard to reset. Investigating a little further, I don't think that is an error because they are physically connected to the reset line on the motherboard's MCU - the left-hand one connected through a multi-pin header it shares with i think the Y motor, and the right-hand one connected to the two pin header clearly marked "RESET". Curiously, the "RESET" key on the control panel doesn't do anything. But these wires were hot-glued to their respective connectors and the lay of the wire suggests that they were always there. And there is no obvious place on the motherboard to connect end-stop switches. So, fine, I'll just make sure that I try to use the machine in such a way as to not ram the cutting head into either end of the carriage. Maybe I'll figure out how to get the reset key on the control panel working and remove them. To be honest, if Inkcut worked, I'd be tempted to remove the original motherboard and install something that runs GRBL. But whatever. On to signblazer. On the cutter screen of signblazer, it is strongly implied that the origin point is at the start of the material on the right-hand side of the cutter - that is to say, my right hand as i face the front of the cutter. And then when it starts moving the cutting head, it goes hard right, and hits the button on the end of the carriage, resetting the machine. Or before i repaired that switch, just grinding the motor. OK, fine, the machine and signblazer disagree about what an "origin" is, so i go ahead and start with the cutting head to the far left. But strangely the pattern is not flipped or mirrored in any way - it is cut the way that it is shown in the signblazer gui. My final issue is that the first thing it does appears to be to advance the material on the Y axis to approximately 200% of the size of the work and then cut the pattern on the far end of that, wasting as much material as i am actually getting to use. Is that due to something i have done wrong on the main screen of signblazer?

Does anyone know where I can download the full version of signblazer compatible with Windows 7. Used to have it years ago until my computer crashed, it's a lot better than signblazer elements.

I'm on my way out the door, but wanted to quickly mention a way to verify a 'software glitch' -- choose another software to run the job. SignBlazer comes to mind.

Good evening all, I made a post a little over a month ago about having issues with my 68" Titan 3 getting lost during contour cutting. I am still having some issues with this, and looking for some guidance. For reference, I have calibrated the ARMS, I have calibrated the Laser for Barcode scanning, I have calibrated cutter scale. I can not seem to get anywhere here. In the example below I have printed (35) 6" x 3" decals (7 columns, 5 rows), on 54" wide material with lamination. No matter whether I use the ARMS marks, or barcode scanner the results are the same. What happens, is the laser will scan either the reg marks/barcode and get to work. All of the decals on the outside edges (So the first row, last row, first column, last column) will come out perfectly. However all other decals will come out with the contour hugging the bottom of the decal. (See photos below). I am at a loss of what to do. I've tried laminated vs un laminated. I've done all the calibrations a dozen times, I've tried different blades, I have reset the blade heights, I have even gotten all the skew to nearly zero, I have even left a print rolled up to get any curling out over night,ut I still have the same results. Still always the same issue. All the decals close to the reg marks are good, all others are not. This issue is also very repeatable. I can take a group like below, cut them. The middle decals will all be off. So I will rerun the cut program, and the cutter will trace right back over all the previous cuts INCLUDING all of the decals that it was misaligned on.

Hi all. New here. I currently own a vinyl express 31r (it sucks) looking to get a new machine. Trying to decide between the 28" titan or the 34" sc2. I am not seeing any big difference other than registration mark reading. Which one is better, also can find anything about how much memory each one has. Thanks!

I can cut down to 1/8" letters with the SC2, so I imagine the LP3 can do that as well. Generally, I don't go that tiny, since miniaturization of text is not useful for signage. My SC2 stand is constructed with rollers placed in front. I'm not arguing that the LP3 is of equal quality to Graphtec (or Roland, or Mimaki, or GCC) My intention is to point out that users of the 'value cutters' can still achieve the results they seek for a substantially reduced price. James is seeking a new Graphtec (he has a Graphtec already). He may or may not require it for what he's doing, his mileage may vary. My design and cut software is SignBlazer, free. Even VinylMaster software is powerful enough for most people. Now, as we head into 2024, I really need to get working on improving my standing with Santa.

My 5 year old Titan 3 68 in is showing "no data" when i press the option button , i can still operate with the software , but is this a bad motherboard , all so it with not hold speed and force when i turn it off i have to set each time i turn it off and on

Out of the blue, my Titan 2 stopped cutting correctly. Now the vinyl feeds and starts cutting then it stops OR it cuts random lines in the design. Any ideas what the problem could be. I use scalp and have never had this problem before.

Hi, we recently bought an hp latex titan 3 printer cutter combo and one of the things we'd like to do with it is die cut decals/stickers. I know the Titan 3 doesn't have a separate mode to handle fully cutting through the vinyl backing unfortunately. Until we can afford to upgrade to a large enough cutter with the feature we were hoping maybe someone had experience doing it with a Titan 3 or similar model. Even if it would likely eat through cutting strips rather quickly. We've done some test runs with different force / blade depth settings and gotten it to nearly work for some of the decals but many don't get fully cut. I know it's a long shot but does anyone know if there's a way to improve the results or are we stuck having to find a new cutter? If so, is graphtec the best choice for something like this? Thanks!

I had posted in Titan 2 thread about cutter stopping on me. A friend loaned me a spare (MH-721)that he was not using. In the meantime, I started shopping around for a back up until I can get the O/I board for the Titan. Ran across a 28"P-Cut that works great and come to find out, he actually has 2 of the same models AND a 28" Lasterpoint. ALL 3 with stands, keyspan adapters for $150.00l. Another friend that does a slew of t-shirts, which I don't do, Is buying the sizer stuff 1roll of 12"x50yd black and same in white, along with several short rolls of various colors for $200.00. Happy, Happy, Happy.

Yes please help. Yes, so the barcode in vinyl master for the Titan 3 does work. My issue is it doesn't always. Every time it will read the barcode and identify the cut job, but it just can't read all the marks. So I might get 3 out of 4 marks, or halfway through a 70'' cut and it just doesn't read a mark. So I try again and it reads everything just fine and cuts as good as a freaking graphtec. Sometimes it takes one retry or 3 days of retrying. Print a file and cut it. Then repeat but it won't read the other marks this time. It reads the barcode, but not the corner mark. Sometimes just turning the print around and trying from the other end gets it, but not always. I have played with the built in sensitivity and many other things. I can't get this thing to just work. Now, sometimes I can reprint the same file on the same media/laminate and it will read it just fine. You can measure out everything and they are identical. This machine just has a mind of its own on when it wants to work.

Hey all, I just received my 15" Titan. Downloaded the program, got everything setup. Turned on the cutter to find my USB and the head runs over and crashes, then the belt starts skipping. I can't see any physical limit switches. Anything I can do to remedy this? Thanks in advance, Jesse

When I have a design in the software and go do a area test or a cut, the vinyl completely stops moving through. It makes a loud noise and the rollers stop moving the vinyl. I can pull the vinyl through and can feel the "stopping point", but I don't want to ruin the machine by doing so. If anyone could tell my what is happening It would be greatly appreciated. (I attached a video so hopefully it explains it a little better than my wording). Thanks so much, Lucas. US Cutter Titan Problem.MOV