haumana

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Everything posted by haumana

  1. haumana

    Flexi 8.5 help needed

    If you leave the cutter plugged into the same port, then each time your machine starts/restarts, it should remain the same. On the software side, make sure it matches. If there's an option for 'auto' or 'auto detect,' still go ahead and select COM3.
  2. haumana

    Flexi 8.5 help needed

    What has changed in your environment? Did you move the cutter or. your computer? Did you unplug/replug your USB cable? How long is the cable from the cutter to your computer? Have you tried changing the cable, because they do sometimes go bad. If you're still wanting to try to connect via USB, then try to keep the COMPort to 1 thru 4. You can see what COMPort Windows has assigned to the device in the Device Manager, and you should be able to reassign the Port number.
  3. haumana

    Flexi 8.5 help needed

    amazingly, rebooting resolves so many things. glad you're back up and running again.
  4. haumana

    Adobe Fresco

    At least you think of things to draw. I fully admit to being a total left-brainer, next to no creativity, but I can execute the crap out of anything, or MacGyver when necessary, but fresh ideas is not something in my daily vocabulary.
  5. haumana

    New forumer from France

    Thanks for joining the forum. Looking forward to your posts.
  6. True that. I've spent countless efforts making "incompatible" software work with different computers. It's like they're trying to test my ability to circumvent the way they want their program to install and run. Challenge accepted!! Clearly there are times when I simply have too much time on my hands
  7. If you can find out who the original manufacturer is for that machine, then you're 85% there. Then you'd be able to test out VM using the correct 'driver.' In the meantime, if you're designing in AI, but needing your format to be in .png, then just export your design from AI to a .png format. CorelDraw, Inkscape, and Affinity Designer also have the ability to do that as well. I rarely design in whatever proprietary software is provided to me, but I have a few machines that I need to use to send the job properly to it.
  8. You might want to design outside of the proprietary software (i.e. Illustrator, CorelDraw, Inkscape, Designer, etc.), and just import the graphics into the cutting software. Is VM able to export to a compatible format for the Romeo?
  9. haumana

    Adding fonts to LTR

    that post is over 7-years old. try this link https://future.support/fr/blog/how-do-i-install-fonts-extras
  10. haumana

    Where do you get your garments?

    If you're looking for quantity, you can check out SanMar.
  11. haumana

    OFFSET CUT ISSUE

    post your file in .svg format and maybe someone can take a look at it.
  12. Try Aliexpress.com That's here I had to go to buy a replacment blade holder for my (first generation) LaserPoint. That was the only place I could find one. Though, I would recommend that if cutting strip is just simply too low, then to put tape or something else that will just build up the height, then put the strip over that.
  13. haumana

    Needing Help to Vectorize This

    I only had the time to do a rough vector, then clean up should've been quick to do on the OP's side since it was just straight lines. It's good if they learn how to vectorize and node edit.
  14. haumana

    Needing Help to Vectorize This

    I am going to assume that this logo is painted on the side of your garage or something, since the forum frowns upon infringement. You might want to download Inkscape, it's opensource and free, work on mulitple platforms, and can be used to touch up and vectorize. That being said, here's a rough vector of your image, you will need to some editing to clean it up, but it shouldn't take long to node edit it. U.eps
  15. Hey Captain - You can just scroll to the bottom and start typing up a response, or hit quote, or just add @haumana (or any other name), then that would usually notify the other member as well. I got the vid, and it's hard for me to say that the carriage to dropping with extra force. I would say to swap out the cracked blade holder when you get the replacement and try it again. I do know that my LaserPoint does drop the blade harder than my Graphtec, but as long as it's not poking holes through the back, and I'm still getting a good cut, then I'll just leave it as it is. Feel free to post your video in this thread if you would like others to chime in if they have any thoughts on this too.
  16. Definitely replace the blade holder and go from there. Do you feel that the blade holder is hitting with more force than normal?
  17. haumana

    Where do you get your garments?

    Where are you located?
  18. Hmm, now that is a quandry. Have you tried to rotate the design in the workspace, and send it to the cutter 'as is'? Will the text cut properly if you don't have the speed weed option on? I personally don't use any kind of easy weed or speed weed. I just take the time to add my own cut lines, because it would take me longer to weed after the a speed weed setting then it would be when I draw in my own cut relief lines, especially when I have a larger graphic that will optimally weed if I add in relief cuts within the design to make the weeding easier. Usually when I have start/finish issues that don't match-up, I will check to make sure that the pinch rollers are equally space from the two edges of vinyl, that the pinch rollers are over the grit rollers. You could also check the conditions of the rollers, I would just not recommend adjusting the spring tension on the rollers. That's an absolute last resort. For speed, I find that a slower speed works better. The speed I typically cut at floats around 15-20. I'm usually never in a rush, and I'd rather take my time to cut it slowly once over wasting the time it would take to cut it fast, and find out that it was bad cut job during weeding.
  19. Hard to do any additional troubleshooting without getting the actual graphic so that others can test cut and see what kind of results they get as well.
  20. I would first recommend to set the blade depth properly. When you do the drag test (by hand), you should be able to tell if the blade is rotating in the holder. If it's not, or if you feel there might be too much drag on the rotation, then you can try a tiny drop of precision oil. Different machines will have different speed and pressure 'sweet spots,' even within the same machine make and model (though the settings should be fairly close). I would slow the speed down a bit. I would rather the machine take it's time cutting, than me needing to reload the machine after I've spent time weeding it and wasted the material because rushing the cut was unnecessary. I can't say that I've ever had a bad cut because the speed was too slow, but I can definitely tell you that I've had to redo some projects because the speed was too fast. If it's a large design with minimal hard corners and nothing intricate, then I'll run it faster, but those projects don't come along too often for me. Lately I've been commissioned to make stencils of these ridiculously small designs with super thin lines for someone who fabricates custom Star Wars helmets, it makes me totally mental to weed them, and I cut those teeny tiny graphics with a speed ranging between 3 -5. Optimal speed and force can also be dependent on the vinyl (type, manufacturer, color, age, etc.). If you do decide to get a Clean Cut blade, be sure to dial back the force when you recalibrate your machine for the new blade. We all started somewhere, and for me - this forum was my saving grace, so and keep on asking questions (but try to use the search feature first ). Stick with it and keep us updated with your progress. You chose a good machine to get started with .
  21. You might want to make sure you have the blade depth set properly. This is what you're aiming for ... And you can use Skeeter's instructions on how to get there. "To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade."
  22. Depends on who you ask. I am a huge fan for Clean Cut Blades. If there's smaller, more intricate, or thin lines happening, then a 60 degree, and slowing down the speed should help you. I'm not a fan of changing blades, so I cut just about anything (with exception to reflective), with my 60* blade, which resides in the carriage about 90% of the time. If the stuff if coming up as you weed, you might need to increase the force just a smidgen, so that it's cutting through the adhesive as well. Another issue is how long are you allowing your cut vinyl to sit before weeding. I will generally not allow any cut vinyl to sit for more than 24-hour without being weeded. If I can't weed a project within 24-hours, then I don't cut it until I can make the time.
  23. haumana

    Stencil Masks

    Glad that you were able to McGyver a solution for yourself. Tegaderm is not cheap, and because it's intended use is in the medical community, it tends to be pricey. I always have some at home, but use it only when necessary. Unfortunately because it's crazy thin, I think trying to use it with a cutter (and carrier sheet) would be problematic to weed and apply. I would be curious to see how you ended up using it for your application, and the process you used.
  24. Take a quick look at this page, it'll give you a quick snapshot of some of the different features for vinyl cutters. If you're buying a new cutter, each will come with software to get your running, but if you're looking for which version of VM to consider, then take a look here, and you can see the difference between the VM versions. You should first consider your use and budget, and then what features you would like versus what you require.
  25. haumana

    Should I use a pen tablet for Inkscape?

    I think it all comes down to personal preference, and how you intend to use it. I know a graphic designer who strictly uses a mouse, even though she tried a tablet and didn't care for it. I asked how to managed when she needed to do really intricate work, and she said her trick was to use a gaming mouse, and use the mouse's software to use precision mode. I personally use trackballs, which most people are not fond of at all, but my trackballs have a precision mode, which I often use as well.