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  1. 2 points
    The other option would be to analyze the design and figure out a way to break it into smaller pieces. Add in some registration marks to get it all lined back up and you're good to go.
  2. 2 points
    Jimbo, you got a solution that was offered 15 years ago, which is a fine testament to the effectiveness of these Forums and its Search functionality. By the way, 'mobby' was one of the most-well-versed people regarding SignBlazer, as he was personally familiar with the developer (Jerry Bonham). All of that is water under the bridge, of course, but it's great to see people are still able to obtain "Help" on a program that's long since been abandoned in the marketplace.
  3. 2 points
    DXF files are not really cutter friendly. They look like a constant line, but they are actually several line segments and are typically not joined. VM can't do a contour, because it doesn't see a shape to contour cut around. You will need to join all the segments in order to create a shape. I might be as simple as joining the 3 areas circled below or you might need to join every single little line segment. Some software has the ability to automatically join line segments that are close enough, although this can give some funky results some times. I believe Inkscape has this ability. If you can get the file as an eps, ai, or svg rather than a dxf that would be the easiest way to go.
  4. 2 points
    Update! Since we're in Hawai'i, Graphtec recommended that we check with a local authorized repair shop rather than send the whole thing to continental US. We called up the recommended shop and after hearing of our issue asked, "when did you last replace the plunger?" They noted that those can stop working, preventing the blade from spinning/rotating. We ordered a new plunger from them and we're back in business! We finished out the 15mil synthetic job and are getting through the 10mil job as I write this. The old plunger has been marked and is still good enough for most of our paper jobs. I did let the boss know about the other blades you folks recommended. Thank you
  5. 2 points
    . Has this cutter ever cut correctly? Is it new or used? Your cutter is a value cutter with a cheap Chinese chipset on it,, will take a bit of fine tuning to cut correctly. Best to use with a Tripplite Keyspan Adapter and your null modem cable. Setting your blade depth correctly is the first thing you have to get correct, You do not use the depth of a credit card or post it notes. That is way too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. You set the blade depth to the vinyl you will be cutting.( Instructions below). For blade offset, start at 0.25mm and adjust at 0.05 to be correct. Show your test cuts from the TEST cut feature on the machine. That has to be correct first, before you cut anything. Square should be square. You could also ad a little overcut in your cutting software, but that is not going to fix what you have going on. You have to start with the correct blade depth first. this info has been posted on here hundreds and hundreds of times, it applies to any brand of vinyl cutter, except a Graphtec has a ZERO blade offset. Something that you will have to do if you haven't, if that cutter is on a stand, it needs grounded to the stand, or static from the vinyl, will stop the cutter. The tracking is not good on those cutters for larger designs. The memory is also not good for larger designs. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.
  6. 2 points
    I'm assuming poll size tells the machine to measure the paper? You still have to remember there is going to be unusable space at the end of the paper that the rollers hold onto and the machine is not going to account for this because in the vinyl world you don't worry about how much vinyl is at the end, you are just going to cut it off and continue to use the roll. You are trying to use the machine as a plotter, which is not what it was designed for and thereby missing some of the abilities a true plotter would have. You seem to be getting pretty close to your goal, but as you've discovered it's just going to be a matter of trial and error to find the settings and conditions that work for you.
  7. 2 points
    I have never tried to draw on sheets or ever use sheets with my Graphtec. But have you calibrated the cutter to the cutting software? As in cut/draw a 3" x 3" square and make sure that it measures exactly at 3" x 3"? That adjustment is in Resolution. Mine is set at 1016 in/steps. I have a FC7000 and FC8000. but the same adjustment is made in Resolution in my cutting software.. I use Flexi software. And Graphtec Pro Studio, which is also Flexi software. So you are putting your cutter head exactly where you want it and you are pushing the ORIGIN button on the cutter? You must push the Origin button before sending a job. That Origin point is the measuring point for your design. Most people here are cutting vinyl on 15"-30" wide vinyl rolls. Only a couple hand fulls answer questions. Your cutter will not cut past the pinch rollers unless, you use expand or turn off the pinch roller sensor. I don't know of anyone on here, doing what you are trying to do.
  8. 2 points
    APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR DECAL 1. Clean window or desired smooth surface to remove dirt, grime... (70% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL) Do not use Windex or other similar ammonia-based product, as it leaves a trace behind that is not suitable for decal applications 2. Remove and discard decal backing material (white paper) ---- peel away carefully, making sure the decal stays on the clear "transfer tape" HINT: Don't take the tape away from the backing, but rather, take the paper away from the tape. 3. With the backing paper completely removed from the decal & transfer tape, gently place the decal with the sticky transfer tape onto the surface of the glass (or other desired smooth substrate) in the position you want the decal to be and rub it down lightly with your hand --- be careful, once it's down, it's down ! 4. Take a credit card and use the edge as a squeegee to firmly wipe over the surface of the transfer tape to affix the decal onto the glass or substrate. The decal adhesive is activated by strong pressure. 5. Finally, peel off the transfer tape gently, at a 45-degree angle. The decal will adhere to the surface, but make sure that the decal remains stuck onto the glass and doesn't come back up ---- sometimes you have to 'coax' it from letting go of the transfer tape. 6. Your decal installation is complete. If there are bubbles present under the decal that cannot be removed by working them to the edge, a small needle or pin can be used to puncture the bubble and remove the trapped air
  9. 2 points
    I cut stencils from time to time out of used carrier sheet and have found that applying a couple layers of transfer paper to the back side to act as a cutting mat works pretty good.
  10. 2 points
    For that design, I would try a solid red circle, then yellow with the red areas cut out, then white, then black. I could see maybe doing the black part of the laces before the white but with practice as haunmana said, you should only have to do as many layers as colors.
  11. 1 point
    Hi, I recently purchased an old Roland printer / cutter (CJ-500). I am unfortunately getting an error message that says 'PINCHROLL ERROR - LOST PINCHROLL' when I try to set up a sheet for cutting. I am not sure what to do or where to go from here. If anyone has any advice it would be very helpful. Thanks.
  12. 1 point
    Did you see this cutter preform before buying? Ask the previous owner about the error. Not many people here who even own a Roland that answers questions. Probably more help at the Roland Forum . Roland has their own forum.
  13. 1 point
    The Z-chip as everyone calls it, is nothing more than a simple LM741 Op-Amp. Should be able to pick one up for about a $1.
  14. 1 point
    Ok, did some test cuts, came out great but what just blew me away was cutting some glitter. I hated working with glitter, the Graphtec just laughed at me and cut it amazingly. Wish I got this thing sooner. I spent several hours last week weeding glitter. Had I only known. ha!
  15. 1 point
    Good morning, Seattle. A few questions for you ---- what was your wife intending to accomplish with a cutter? When you say it's "too much" are you referring to the overall size? What made you believe your spouse was requiring a cutter at all? Also, there is a section of these Forums dedicated to Buy, Sell, and Trade which would be the logical place to post your offer. Beyond that, try Facebook/Meta marketplace (or Craigslist, if you dare) and make sure the price is right. There are SC2 machines as low as $340 from the USCUTTER warehouse, so your offer to sell should be less than that. I'm thinking around $250 is in the ballpark. You don't mention here, but when advertising, don't forget to mention it comes with a fresh (Unregistered) copy of VinylMasterCUT. I will say one more thing. When someone comes to look at it to buy, they'll want to see it working, not just sitting there with a zip-tie (anyone can zip-tie a broken/malfunctioning unit and say it's 'new' ). In order to provide a live-action demonstration, download and install SignBlazer Elements and choose LiYu as the cutter model, which will get the cutter to respond. Good luck.
  16. 1 point
    Graphtec offers a Mac version called Graphtec Studio, it's a basic, watered down version of the Windows counter part. In reality, you can use any cutting software that will support the CE7000.
  17. 1 point
    That is the one I have. The heat pillow is a must have in my opinion. Buttons, collars, seams, so many things on shirts that make them not smooth, the heat pillow takes care of all of it.
  18. 1 point
    Yes I downloaded the Graphtec Driver , I don't know why the new SB that I downloaded on my new laptop doesn't have the same Comm settings as on my old laptop. I will keep playing around with it. I only do this every 5 to 7 years and struggle every time thanks for your help! I probably have the Graphtec software but have been using the SBE since the PCut and haven't taken the time to learn a new one. I just love SB.
  19. 1 point
    In the meantime, while waiting for Bigmax to show us what he's got, take a quick look at this fellow, he's got a great operation going.
  20. 1 point
    a good unit like Royal Sovereign is going to be expensive - especially ones with heat assist. I used a Daige for years which is a cold roller and you will have some silvering for a couple of hours but worked great and had 2 of them over the 7 years I did printing with the roland printers
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Well...the forum sheriffs have removed the bandit text & link! Thanks! Sue2
  23. 1 point
    I've just had my first ever (spam link removed) returned and I'm very unimpressed with the job. The wrapping guy is pressurising me to sign it off so that he can get paid but I feel really reluctant to do so. He tells me that my expectations are too high but I find the finishes around certain areas unacceptable. It's been vinyled in two horizontal sheets with about an inch overlap, made to look even worse as the pattern doesn't line up. In addition to these finishes, the logo and contact details are vinyl cut and placed onto the wrap and so have lost the effects that I placed on them and he has lost some clipping paths on an image that I used on the rear, so the background colour doesn't come through. Are my expectations really too high?
  24. 1 point
    Well, I bagged the Hexis idea...... newbie blew it
  25. 1 point
    I agree with SA 1000%. Never apply any wrap material wet. It will in time disolve the adhesive and fall badly. Get in doors out of the wind, wrap material is way easier to apply at a steady temp.. You will learn a feel for it. Stroke from the middle to the outside of your panels. When you get wrinkles pull it off and apply just enough heat to form it back, then reapply. Never tent or stretch it over a concaved area. Push the vinyl in. Try to not stretch the vinyl, only apply heat until it looks like glass then squeegee. If you have had to stretch any area make sure you post heat so the vinyl will lose memory. Justine Pate has great videos, or take one of the mmm courses. Good Luck, you will get there!