Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2023 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Yes found problem after decicded to change the head was encoder gave it a good clean all back and running again
  2. 2 points
    Looking at this photo, it appears that blade tip is extended out wayyyyyyy too far. (I can see it in the picture, which is not good!)
  3. 2 points
    You would be amazed at how many businesses that I interact with, who do not have their own artwork for one reason or another. I often dread having to recreate someone else's logo because it seems like reinventing the wheel, but it's the same wheel without any improvements
  4. 2 points
    The other option would be to analyze the design and figure out a way to break it into smaller pieces. Add in some registration marks to get it all lined back up and you're good to go.
  5. 2 points
    Jimbo, you got a solution that was offered 15 years ago, which is a fine testament to the effectiveness of these Forums and its Search functionality. By the way, 'mobby' was one of the most-well-versed people regarding SignBlazer, as he was personally familiar with the developer (Jerry Bonham). All of that is water under the bridge, of course, but it's great to see people are still able to obtain "Help" on a program that's long since been abandoned in the marketplace.
  6. 2 points
    DXF files are not really cutter friendly. They look like a constant line, but they are actually several line segments and are typically not joined. VM can't do a contour, because it doesn't see a shape to contour cut around. You will need to join all the segments in order to create a shape. I might be as simple as joining the 3 areas circled below or you might need to join every single little line segment. Some software has the ability to automatically join line segments that are close enough, although this can give some funky results some times. I believe Inkscape has this ability. If you can get the file as an eps, ai, or svg rather than a dxf that would be the easiest way to go.
  7. 2 points
    Update! Since we're in Hawai'i, Graphtec recommended that we check with a local authorized repair shop rather than send the whole thing to continental US. We called up the recommended shop and after hearing of our issue asked, "when did you last replace the plunger?" They noted that those can stop working, preventing the blade from spinning/rotating. We ordered a new plunger from them and we're back in business! We finished out the 15mil synthetic job and are getting through the 10mil job as I write this. The old plunger has been marked and is still good enough for most of our paper jobs. I did let the boss know about the other blades you folks recommended. Thank you
  8. 2 points
    . Has this cutter ever cut correctly? Is it new or used? Your cutter is a value cutter with a cheap Chinese chipset on it,, will take a bit of fine tuning to cut correctly. Best to use with a Tripplite Keyspan Adapter and your null modem cable. Setting your blade depth correctly is the first thing you have to get correct, You do not use the depth of a credit card or post it notes. That is way too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. You set the blade depth to the vinyl you will be cutting.( Instructions below). For blade offset, start at 0.25mm and adjust at 0.05 to be correct. Show your test cuts from the TEST cut feature on the machine. That has to be correct first, before you cut anything. Square should be square. You could also ad a little overcut in your cutting software, but that is not going to fix what you have going on. You have to start with the correct blade depth first. this info has been posted on here hundreds and hundreds of times, it applies to any brand of vinyl cutter, except a Graphtec has a ZERO blade offset. Something that you will have to do if you haven't, if that cutter is on a stand, it needs grounded to the stand, or static from the vinyl, will stop the cutter. The tracking is not good on those cutters for larger designs. The memory is also not good for larger designs. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.
  9. 1 point
    Professionals use paper tape. It can be applied wet or dry. I use medium tack paper tape. I prefer perfectear paper tape. That is what I use for every thing. Clear tape you can use for layers. And cannot use with wet application. You cannot use with curves. For curves use a cast vinyl like 751, 951. Cast vinyl is very nice to cut and pliable. The stretch of it stays in place and has a better adhesive. https://uscutter.com/shop/?search_query=perfectear
  10. 1 point
    Brush 455 MT or AR Berkley ,maybe on your computer (AR Berkley)
  11. 1 point
    Yes, Vevor was there. honestly after playing with that 2008 laptop and trying to get it to do just anything anymore(slow)it’s not worth going back to signblazer. now that I made connection and don’t have a brick here I’m satisfied. now I just need to re learn things as well as learn this SCAL basics
  12. 1 point
    All-n-1 and address info text is "Serpentine" Here's the hook (.eps) which needs to be attached to the flowing tail of 'g' at end of Towing. Now all you need is the font for Towing. It's ScriptinaPro. Yer welcome. The general rule is don't vectorize text. Find the right font(s) and re-create/re-type. hook.EPS
  13. 1 point
    yep, that replacement part should get you going. You might consider just using some Gorilla tape to reattach the end cap.
  14. 1 point
    Agree, need the far right pinch roller on the right edge of the vinyl. I have a 30" Graphtec that only has 2 pinch rollers and it works fine that way. You don't need to use all of those pinch rollers. Get down eye level with the machine and watch it. Run the machine slow. I never run my cutter fast. With the force at only 65, it makes me think that you have too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. It should be less blade, more force. That blade should be so far in the blade holder that you think it would not cut at all. You should just barely even see the tip of it. This works for any vinyl. Blade depth is the first thing that has to be done. Too much blade will cause drag. Check your TEST cuts from the machine. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct. The blade holder should be almost touching the vinyl with hardly any gap between the vinyl and the blade holder. With cutter off, push the blade holder down and get down eye level with it. If the blade is set correctly, even pushing down the blade holder, you cannot cut thru the wax paper backing, because the blade would not be long enough. It's not about just not cutting thru the wax paper backing, but also having the least amount of blade possible to stop drag.
  15. 1 point
    well actually has said the file shows "on downloads" so that raises the question, what does that mean? It's also possible to have multiple "download" locations so the first step is to determine what location the file is actually being downloaded to, and then what location Vinyl Master is looking at. Unfortunately, the way windows works now, and the way everything is going, the casual computer user, has no understanding of folder structures and file locations.
  16. 1 point
    Slack is your friend. I always will pull sufficient amount of slack that the entire cut job can be done without ever pulling direction from the roll, my machine doesn't do well with tension I got laughed at because this is one of the first things I did to my machine ... I added a reflective decal, because it doesn't matter how long I've been using cutters, I sometimes still forget
  17. 1 point
    Hello All, I found the issue. The issue is a change in CM5. This is going to have to be a change for our faculty to know in their syllabi for art students. The change in CM5 from CM4 is this. On CM4 in illustrator your art board could be say 24 x 24 and in the file you know to add 2" right and left with no artwork in that space to allow for the grit rollers (1” each side) and an extra inch for the registration marks. If you loaded the sheet into the cutter regardless of the poll size in CM4 it would just find the marks, and contour cut the file. In CM5 Apparently the art board is now being considered when sending the cut job. So, for the last 13 years I’ve always done 24” wide by x length. So, when I had this issue, I assumed it was an issue in CM5, which it is, and kind of I guess, isn’t. So I adjusted my art board to 22” wide by 32” tall. Sent the file to our Canon ImagrPrograf 4000s on a paper size of 24 x 32 so the printer understood the file. Then in illustrator I left the art board at 22”. The poll size on the cutter is 22.5”. When I sent the file, it allowed it to find the marks and cut. But WHY change that setting after 12+ years??? UGH!!. I think this is also why the cutting page was rotating 90° I think the software doesn't know what to do with margins like that and just rotates it to fit. which kind of makes sense. thanks all for the adivce, and options. Now if I can only find a 2.x firmware for my Graphtech FC8600-60 to update so the version 3 firmware will take. but that's a different issue. Thanks again all. Jeremy
  18. 1 point
    Hi, I recently purchased an old Roland printer / cutter (CJ-500). I am unfortunately getting an error message that says 'PINCHROLL ERROR - LOST PINCHROLL' when I try to set up a sheet for cutting. I am not sure what to do or where to go from here. If anyone has any advice it would be very helpful. Thanks.
  19. 1 point
    If that's the case I'd try changing the hole size. Some duct tape with a hole punched in it would probably do the trick. The hole might get larger over time but it'd be an easy fix. Or a small circular piece of polycarbonate (Lexan) with a hole drilled in it and then taped in place. You can get 1/16" thick sheets from amazon for about $7. Could probably even cut a circle out of a plastic party cup. Another option, and it's bit more extreme, drill small holes in the suction cup part so that it doesn't make an air tight seal. If the suction is strong enough it should still pick up paper.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Every once in a while, I come through with the goods! I probably would just throw the image into GIMP (free raster editor) and crop it there, and then import the final result to whatever level of VM I've got. Yeah, it's an extra step for a workaround, but it'll suffice, unless a higher level of VM is financially viable for that added functionality.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Ya, Youtube and I need to get a room.. lmao I guess frustration means im on the right learning curve path.. lol
  24. 1 point
    Ya do not apply that material wet. It is re-positionable also start at the top, work your way down, pop it off if you get a wrinkle and work it out. Watch a few vids and see what they do.
  25. 1 point
    ok so you are not talking about a wrap. you are applying large cut vinyl pieces. a WRAP is done by using printed vinyl on vinyl + laminate made just for doing a vinyl wrap. ex printed IJ180cv3 with 8518 overlaminate. not standard cut vinyl. if you wet install wrap vinyl you will never get out all the water from the micro air release channels. it will cause the wrap to fail!!!