Leaderboard

I had posted in Titan 2 thread about cutter stopping on me. A friend loaned me a spare (MH-721)that he was not using. In the meantime, I started shopping around for a back up until I can get the O/I board for the Titan. Ran across a 28"P-Cut that works great and come to find out, he actually has 2 of the same models AND a 28" Lasterpoint. ALL 3 with stands, keyspan adapters for $150.00l. Another friend that does a slew of t-shirts, which I don't do, Is buying the sizer stuff 1roll of 12"x50yd black and same in white, along with several short rolls of various colors for $200.00. Happy, Happy, Happy.

I have been quite busy lately, with local businesses demanding all types of new signs. Keeping people out of certain areas; preventing parking in prohibited spaces; offering products & services to potential clients; and wayfinder signage. It all adds up ---- every day I manage to obtain orders for these simple jobs. (These are all done on DiBond/MaxMetal substrate)

You need to start with the top layer and work your way down and have the tape large enough to cover the bottom layer. That way, you never have to take the app tape off.

They are called drag blades and are held in place by a magnet. As the cutter head drags the blade around it spins freely so that the knife is orientated the proper cutting direction. A drop of oil in the holder can help, but not often needed. 45 vs 60 is the degree of the cutting edge. 60 will cut sharp detail and thicker material better but will also dull faster. Personally I just use a 60 all the time.

I was online ordering some HTV and needed to replenish my sign vinyl in black. I noticed that USCutter is carrying some of the RapidAir Technology variant and decided to give it a go. I don't have a job for this yet but black stuff comes along fairly often. I will return and do a product evaluation as soon as I get a job for this.

You might consider learning a vector design program. There is be a learning curve, but once you figure it out you will not have to convert from raster to vector which can cause a large loss of detail. You may also find various designs can be done faster/easier in a vector design program vs a raster editing program.

I just wanted to say thank you again! My Cameo arrived today and within a few hours I was able to get most of my designs cutting perfectly! I don't think I'll need the software upgrade since I create most of my images in photoshop and save as PNG but thanks for the suggestion.

I have a K1-1350 and it came with SignMaster Cut, basic cutting software. It came with signmaster on a thumbdrive - which could not be used to install the software. Had to use the optical drive to install.It's decent budget cutter, but so far has been working flawlessly. If you can find a copy of SignMaster Cut, it comes with the drivers and all that is needed. Of course since I am answering you two years too late, if you haven't gotten it working then you likely have tossed it. I bought mine new from vevor.com for around $500. Mine has a comm port, which your model unfortunately does not have - and the comm port is easiest way to set up. If you use the USB port, then you need the driver. https://signmaster.software/cut-tools-features/

cutting strip would be my guess

Yes, and yes.

Dat ain't no Big Belly, that's a gas tank for a sex machine

Firstly, are you sure that the Tumblers are coated with a polyester coating for sublimation? I do them in a dedicated convection oven, using shrink wrap from Coastal. You also may want to bump up the time in the press. It takes about 6 minutes in a convection oven.

This just popped-up in my "funny Photos" newsfeed. Perfect.

cool, cheers for the assist And... I found the USB dongle lol, i called the guy i bought it from, its inside the machine, he mounted it internally as he was scared of loosing it or breaking it (its a desktop PC not a laptop)

Well, well, well….. I finally got it. My issue was I was trying to get the vinyl to adhere to the app tape right away. I learned that a light pressure on the tape first to get all the major bubbles out. Then I worked in a circle applying significant pressure. Wow! That was simple. Thanks again for all the help!

I think the clear tape is a little more rigid, so getting it to lay flat will be more difficult. If I'm doing the application with the app tape on the table, and laying the decal into it, which is my preferred method, and if the app tape is not laying flat, then I will over pull the length, and tape the corners down. I'd be cutting it off in the final cuts anyway. I also prefer to use paper tape. Most here prefer paper tape. I will only use clear if the client specifically asks for it, and I never offer up that info.

I think I’ve got it. It is the knockout feature. Had to play with it for a while. Thanks for the help.

I would just do this in 2-layers, black on red, or vice versa, since the elements seem to crossover a bit. Just make sure you registration marks are on point when layering.

That is a lot of layers. I might do something like that once, but I wouldn't want to do it multiple times, a full color print would be the way to go.

Layers. Have you tried to ungroup it in VM and see if there are multiple instances of the graphic sitting one on top another?

Even the cheapest true heat press will be better than the easy press. If you have room for it, you won't regret it over an easy press.

there is no way with a cricuit easy press ( essentially a big iron) to get a even heat nor even pressure over time on a transfer if you are thinking of selling you product - time, temp and pressure are all important when applying HTV for customers

Get the 7000, but definitely hold on to the 6000.

Can't relay on autodetect, and even if it does work, windows will auto detect it as a comm port you'll still have to tell your software what port it is. The usb interface on a MH is nothing more than a cheap USB to serial adapter.

Another tip I would give is use some parchment paper (or even better if you happen to have any Gerber 225 vinyl it has a clear carrier that is totally amazing for layering) I submitted a video a few years back using parchment paper: