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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2022 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Even though they are bottom of the barrel, they can be made to work well if you take the time to tune it and work out all the kinks. I've had one for about 15 years that has served me well as a hobbiest. Just have to know the limitations of the machine.
  2. 4 points
    I have been quite busy lately, with local businesses demanding all types of new signs. Keeping people out of certain areas; preventing parking in prohibited spaces; offering products & services to potential clients; and wayfinder signage. It all adds up ---- every day I manage to obtain orders for these simple jobs. (These are all done on DiBond/MaxMetal substrate)
  3. 4 points
    You need to start with the top layer and work your way down and have the tape large enough to cover the bottom layer. That way, you never have to take the app tape off.
  4. 3 points
    They are called drag blades and are held in place by a magnet. As the cutter head drags the blade around it spins freely so that the knife is orientated the proper cutting direction. A drop of oil in the holder can help, but not often needed. 45 vs 60 is the degree of the cutting edge. 60 will cut sharp detail and thicker material better but will also dull faster. Personally I just use a 60 all the time.
  5. 2 points
    I was online ordering some HTV and needed to replenish my sign vinyl in black. I noticed that USCutter is carrying some of the RapidAir Technology variant and decided to give it a go. I don't have a job for this yet but black stuff comes along fairly often. I will return and do a product evaluation as soon as I get a job for this.
  6. 2 points
    We have told buyers for years not to buy the MH cutter, and to step up to at least the SC2, It is a known fact that this cutter has problems, Static, tracking, connecting, You should read before you buy. The info has been here for years. Most any value cutter comes from China. Your post is nothing new that most people don't already know. So what is your problem? That cutter and any value cutter will run better on a Tripp-lite Keyspan adapter and a null modem cable. Posted 100's of times on here. Tripp-lite is the brand name. Destroying your material? Either static, or you don't have your blade depth set correctly. Posted here 100's of times. Blade depth has to be set correctly first.
  7. 2 points
    I don't have SB with me so I can't tell you exactly right now. In Inkscape, the process would be to "break apart" the image which would result in a solid image that can then be used with the intersect command. Although if we take a step or two back in your process all you should have to do is do an intersect command with the original image and the lines image. Here's an example of how I would do it in Inkscape. I have created an image of stripes and I have the tiger image. Next I'll move the tiger image over the stripes. Then select both images and use the Intersect command
  8. 2 points
    You might consider learning a vector design program. There is be a learning curve, but once you figure it out you will not have to convert from raster to vector which can cause a large loss of detail. You may also find various designs can be done faster/easier in a vector design program vs a raster editing program.
  9. 2 points
    I just wanted to say thank you again! My Cameo arrived today and within a few hours I was able to get most of my designs cutting perfectly! I don't think I'll need the software upgrade since I create most of my images in photoshop and save as PNG but thanks for the suggestion.
  10. 2 points
    I have a K1-1350 and it came with SignMaster Cut, basic cutting software. It came with signmaster on a thumbdrive - which could not be used to install the software. Had to use the optical drive to install.It's decent budget cutter, but so far has been working flawlessly. If you can find a copy of SignMaster Cut, it comes with the drivers and all that is needed. Of course since I am answering you two years too late, if you haven't gotten it working then you likely have tossed it. I bought mine new from vevor.com for around $500. Mine has a comm port, which your model unfortunately does not have - and the comm port is easiest way to set up. If you use the USB port, then you need the driver. https://signmaster.software/cut-tools-features/
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    Dat ain't no Big Belly, that's a gas tank for a sex machine
  14. 2 points
    Firstly, are you sure that the Tumblers are coated with a polyester coating for sublimation? I do them in a dedicated convection oven, using shrink wrap from Coastal. You also may want to bump up the time in the press. It takes about 6 minutes in a convection oven.
  15. 2 points
    This just popped-up in my "funny Photos" newsfeed. Perfect.
  16. 2 points
    cool, cheers for the assist And... I found the USB dongle lol, i called the guy i bought it from, its inside the machine, he mounted it internally as he was scared of loosing it or breaking it (its a desktop PC not a laptop)
  17. 2 points
    Well, well, well….. I finally got it. My issue was I was trying to get the vinyl to adhere to the app tape right away. I learned that a light pressure on the tape first to get all the major bubbles out. Then I worked in a circle applying significant pressure. Wow! That was simple. Thanks again for all the help!
  18. 2 points
    I think the clear tape is a little more rigid, so getting it to lay flat will be more difficult. If I'm doing the application with the app tape on the table, and laying the decal into it, which is my preferred method, and if the app tape is not laying flat, then I will over pull the length, and tape the corners down. I'd be cutting it off in the final cuts anyway. I also prefer to use paper tape. Most here prefer paper tape. I will only use clear if the client specifically asks for it, and I never offer up that info.
  19. 2 points
    I think I’ve got it. It is the knockout feature. Had to play with it for a while. Thanks for the help.
  20. 2 points
    I would just do this in 2-layers, black on red, or vice versa, since the elements seem to crossover a bit. Just make sure you registration marks are on point when layering.
  21. 2 points
    That is a lot of layers. I might do something like that once, but I wouldn't want to do it multiple times, a full color print would be the way to go.
  22. 2 points
    Layers. Have you tried to ungroup it in VM and see if there are multiple instances of the graphic sitting one on top another?
  23. 1 point
    Search bubbles in the search bar, It has been addressed many, many times. There are many reasons for your problem. Plus many answers for your problem already. The search bar helps you find your answer on your own time. That is why this is such a great forum. There is years of experience left in these threads and posts from previous problems, just like yours, bubbles. Problems solved already.
  24. 1 point
    don't tell anyone but I have been buying them off ebay real cheap for years - works great
  25. 1 point
    Subscription vs buying comes down to how often is the software updated, and how often do you buy the update. Me personally, I prefer buying. If I get software that does what I need and works, I see no point in upgrading and introducing a new world of things to learn and/or not work. I still use a program from the late 90s simply because it works and newer version have gotten way more complicated than what I need. However, if you're one of those that has to have the latest and greatest a subscription can work out to be cheaper in the long run and you'll be sure to always have the newest version as well as the tech support that comes along with it.