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I saw that when I was weeding it out, almost decided to cut the P & R's free- hand, also could left the B unweeded. And thanks for your help as well darcshadow

I can't help with setting up the new cutter but I would suggest you get in the habit of saving/exporting your designs as EPS or SVG files. That way in the future if you ever do have to switch to a different program you will be able to easily load old designs. Also, don't let the number of old designs you have scare you from switching software. How often to you actually load an old design and cut it? If like most people, not often. And when you do need an old design, just load it, save it off as an EPS and you're done. No need to convert them all, just convert them as you need them.

The function of the spring and the adjustment of depth have nothing to do with each other. Set the blade depth per Mz Skeeters instructions. Then if you're still having issues look at things on the cutter, bad cutting strip, non smooth movements of the cutter head, correctly functional solenoid. With the blade set correctly it is impossible to cut too deep.

A buddy just told me about a relatively new app from Adobe, Adobe Fresco. It's a free vector drawing app that is suppose to work really well with tablets and styluses. A guy he follows uses the app and a screen protector call Paperlike that makes drawing on the tablet feel a lot more like drawing on paper. This guy is really pleased with it and his only real complaint is it dulls the colors a bit. Anyway, I have not used this app but we get people in here every now and then asking about using tablets and drawing pens. This might be one worth looking at if that is what you're after.

True that. I've spent countless efforts making "incompatible" software work with different computers. It's like they're trying to test my ability to circumvent the way they want their program to install and run. Challenge accepted!! Clearly there are times when I simply have too much time on my hands

I think you're missing what slice was trying to say. It's not that other programs can't use a Siser cutter, it's just that the only software FC supports is the Leonardo Studio. Here's another example. MicroSoft will say that MS Office is only compatible with with Windows 10 and newer. However there are plenty of people out there that have gotten MS Office to run on older versions of Windows, and even various versions of Linux. There are almost always other ways to run things, just the vendor doesn't want you to use them and doesn't directly support them.

If you can find out who the original manufacturer is for that machine, then you're 85% there. Then you'd be able to test out VM using the correct 'driver.' In the meantime, if you're designing in AI, but needing your format to be in .png, then just export your design from AI to a .png format. CorelDraw, Inkscape, and Affinity Designer also have the ability to do that as well. I rarely design in whatever proprietary software is provided to me, but I have a few machines that I need to use to send the job properly to it.

There is a special wrap vinyl for vehicles. See: Fellers.

I have 6", 9, 12", 15", 18", 24, 30" of paper transfer tape.100 yd length. I only buy 50 yd rolls of vinyl in 15" 24" 30" In 24 colors. I only have 3 colors in 15" I only sell online. I purchase my tape at jra-signsupplies. Ebay most of the time. I purchase a 48" log and they will slit it up to 5 times free. Located in Michigan. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153452552342?var=453402809544 I have had some tape do that before. But I can usually unroll it several times, like 5 times. and then the tape gets better. The outside layers may dry out, but the inside is fine. Maybe , maybe not. depends on how old the tape is. I try to help when I can.

Looking at this photo, it appears that blade tip is extended out wayyyyyyy too far. (I can see it in the picture, which is not good!)

hi, thank you very much, the reason i compose in cap's is because of poor eye sight (sorry)

Cutters need to be sold with design/cut/connectivity software. Please contact your eBay seller and inquire about that. You can use 'RedSail' driver with free SignBlazer.

Quick update, I got in device manager and just started clicking on stuff, reboot computer and it appears to be working Thank you so much

Hi again Jill, thanks for checking back with that reply from FC support. I think you misunderstood the answer that FurtureCorp. gave you. What they seem to be saying is that the Siser cutter is not featured within their regular VinylMaster program(s) and is "proprietary" for the LDS software to pair with it. In other words, they don't have a Siser machine driver built into any of their Vinyl-Master branded products, and only the Leonardo Studio can provide that. That being said, you have found a work-around program with ECS, which fortunately has a driver for your unit. (FutureCorp. was telling you that THEIR apps aren't compatible, but as you've discovered, there is some other developer which placed the Siser cutters into EasyCut's program coding.) Just out of curiosity, what attracted you to the SISER unit? Was there some feature or configuration you liked, versus a regular USCUTTER Chinese knock-off of Roland-type cutters? (SC2, or LP3, Prism-Cut or Titan models?)

My cutter appears to be one of the numerous re-branded versions of the ct630. It's currently running v2.01 firmware and generally seems to work ok but i am a n00b at using vinyl cutters. I have my own eprom burner - so while it's not worth it to me to pay for a programmed chip with unknown improvements, I'm curious enough that if i can get an image of the firmware i think it would be neat to see what the difference may be.

Professionals use paper tape. It can be applied wet or dry. I use medium tack paper tape. I prefer perfectear paper tape. That is what I use for every thing. Clear tape you can use for layers. And cannot use with wet application. You cannot use with curves. For curves use a cast vinyl like 751, 951. Cast vinyl is very nice to cut and pliable. The stretch of it stays in place and has a better adhesive. https://uscutter.com/shop/?search_query=perfectear

Mahalo!!! AR Berkley is spot on! I envy your font knowledge

Brush 455 MT or AR Berkley ,maybe on your computer (AR Berkley)

Thank you

Here is the thread that people posted of work spaces, a while back.

Biggest problems Newbies encounter is setting the blade depth correctly. Too many wrong instructions out there. Don't use instructions that have to do with a credit card thickness or post it notes. They are wrong. Vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick, so you only cut with the very tip of the blade. Blade depth has to be set correctly before any other settings. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder Make sure the carriage head wheels are firmly in the track. Never be pulling vinyl from the roll, always enough slack to do the order. Make sure blade holder is firmly down in the carriage arm. If you had the blade too far out, make sure you haven't broken the tip off.

All the wraps I have ever seen they only did seams at smart locations like where the side panels meet the roof etc... Never seen them have an overlap on door panels. Maybe he has an undersized printer? For what those costs I think I'd make sure it made me happy. Tell him that if he wants to leave it the way it is he needs to add some more vinyl that says "This crappy wrap job was done by....:" so he can get proper advertising for his efforts. Ha ha!

I would assume he is using a wrapping cast, 60" hexis

If your using a wrapping cast, never wet install. period. If your "wrapping" with a regular sign vinyl then you might want to do it wet but I do not suggest this at all. It is all together wrong material for the job.

First time wrap should always be done WET WET WET WET.... vehicle and material...... (Assuming you aren't cutting and just wrapping with Carbon or something.....)