darcshadow

Also free is Inkscape, although it's not a true cutting software, it does have the ability to do so.

It really is a lot of user preference. Different material produces different types of etches. The pressure is also dependent on the type of etch and material being used. Personally I like the lower grits for glass gives it more texture. But some don't like that look.

Have you tried looking for VinylMaster training videos? There are tons of them, one specifically for USCutter Vinly Master Cut tracing.

That's pretty cool. So, if this is the setup the OP is using, and after looking through the manual, my next question would be have you adjusted the Tool Offset, page 14-8 of the manual.

Haumana, i suspect this may be a case of when the poster said Print, he truly meant print. As to the question, sorry, can't help there, not a print guy.

How are you drawing the image and how are you aliening the knife to the drawn image?

No worries, I kind of hijacked the thread anyway.

You need to calibrate your cutter in your cutting software. What software are you using?

What does this mean? JPEG is not a vector. Do you mean you can only import a JPEG file? Another easy way to find the vector after creating it, click on a color at the bottom to change the color of the vector. If the color does not change you have the raster image selected.

yeah, replacing/installing memory is easy. Hardest part is making sure you get the right kind which sounds like you know what you need.

I'm not finding anything about the max cutting depth, but for reference most vinyl is around 4 mils. 1/32" is 31 mils, so I doubt any vinyl cutter would be able to cut this material. Looking at the photo you posted, I see no reason why a simple rectangle wouldn't work, there's no need for a gasket around the screw holes. The only thing I see is the whole thing might need to be a bit larger to give slightly more surface area for the gasket to make contact with especially around those holes.

Simple rectangle pieces? I'd suggest a piece of scrap wood or a Cutting mat, straight edge, and a utility knife.

Should be ok as a cutting computer, plus side it has a serial port. 2gigs of memory is a bit on the low side, but again, for just a cutting computer it should be good.

Have you tried a different computer, could be the computer usb port has died.

I want to get this made at about 18" wide. Farm.pdf

However, be aware, over cut in the software will not change the auto test cut of the machine.

If you look closely at other points/corners on your cut are they lifted? My guess would be the point of that A was lifted enough that the sticky side was exposed and it stuck to the roller. Not having the correct blade depth can cause the vinyl to lift.

Any recommendations for someplace that will do a half dozen or so stickers? Stickermule's min is 50.

What exactly are you doing? If you tell us step by step you you did perhaps we can tell you what you did wrong.

Also be aware, the MH is advertised as not MAC compatible. I believe there are some users that have gotten it to work, and in theory, if you use the serial port it shouldn't matter what your os is so long as you have a program that can send the proper commands. Inkscape can be used to cut, although it's not ideal. I used it for quite a while without much issue. I still use it for design and usually cut with VM.

In the vinyl world the main cost is really time. Most vinyl is really cheap and even a large window you usually have only $4 or $5 of actual vinyl. Figure out how much time everything will take you and what you want to be paid per hour, add in a little to cover materials and there you have it.

+1 on Inkscape. It is a very powerful free program. I use it almost exclusively for my designs.

I have the low end Eastwood gun. It's not bad for hobbiest type stuff. It's a good intro gun till you get serious and setup to the high end guns. To bake the stuff I bought a used oven for like $20 and then spend about $80 putting in a 220 line in the garage to plug the oven into. You can also use a large toaster oven, did that for awhile, the problem with the toaster oven is I had to stand it on it's side in order to put a cup in there and when you do that the temp. sensors are not in the right place so controlling the temperature is not very accurate. I have also seen small 110 ovens that can be used for doing cups but that about all that would fit in one, and they were pretty pricey. Used oven and a 220 line in the garage was the cheapest option I found. To start with I used a large cardboard box as my powder cabinet, but that got annoying real quick so I eventually built a cabinet, put a fan in it to pull the powder away from me as I sprayed, added a hook to hang parts from and built some metal stands to hold the cups. All in all it was a pretty fun project. As for the design, I just use standard vinyl, put it on and spray the powder, then throw it in the oven for about 2 minutes, just long enough to get the powder to flow. Pull it out and carefully remove the vinyl then stick it back in and finish the baking process.

Played around with VM a little just now and remembered one oddity. When you change the View to Wireframe it is not what I would consider true wireframe. It basically just removes the fill but still shows the edges of the fill, it does not show you the actual lines the cutter would follow. To get that view there is a button on the right side, looks like a circle, called Wireframe Fill. Click that and you'll be able to see the actual cut lines. Once you turn that view on, the node editing tool work more like their names would imply.

Sounds like the belt on the cutting head has come loose or the head is stuck on something. Can you manually move it easily? Can you control the cutting head from the machine? If so, can you move it that way?