haumana

I was always curious how they tracked that. I wasn't sure if it was going to be something like a configuration setup, or from querying the Mac address and/or IP address. Good to know.

ditto on the SBE. It's free, so it really couldn't hurt to try. Just make sure that you suspend any anti-virus you might have running when you install the file. The software engineer passed away a number of years ago, and user found the means to get the file to install and be used beyond the trial version. As long as you find the link and file from this forum, it will be safe to download and install.

Glad you managed to get your cutter working. It's strange that the 9600 baud rate didn't work. Main thing is that you found a way to make it work. As far as importing - what version of SBE are you using? what have you tried, and what's happening? Do you get an error? Does nothing happen? Do you have an sample file that you wouldn't mind sharing so others can see if it can be imported?

¿Intentaste alguna de las sugerencias de este hilo? Sería más fácil si nos hiciera saber lo que realmente ha probado, entonces podemos guiarlo desde allí. [Did you try any of the suggestion in this thread? It would be easier if you let us know what you have actually tried, then we can guide you from there. ]

Have you tried contacting USC support directly?

trial and error. although, it might do well if you can measure the thickness and see if you can find one that matches the specs of your original teflon strip.

If you don't have the money for a brand new machine, then you can look for a good used one, just make sure that you see it in action before you buy it. Another alternative is a Cricut. You stencils would be a lot cleaner, faster, and professional if you get yourself a means to use a cutter of some sort. You can find used Cricuts too.

You are not mistaken. GS is currently the only version of this particular offered up in Mac format. A possible option however, is if you bootcamp or parallel your Mac to run Windows on it, then you can utilize the GPS software.

Buy the best one within your budget. When it comes to cutters, you pretty will get what you pay for ... typically the better the machine, the better the results.

Start with SignBlazer, it's free, you should be able to search for the link within the forum. Make sure you suspend your anti-virus, since the original developer has long passed away a member found the means to alter the code that it's not longer in trial version, but anti-virus programs will prevent the installation. make sure you download drivers for the machine.

Nice thread find! Same here, (2) 40w CO2, a small CNC (still unused), and will probably be picking up a Fiber soon (fingers crossed).

If that font/layout isn't part of their branding, then you could adjust the text so it will break in between the window frame, then you won't have to deal with making additional cuts, or stretching (if that's what you're considering). In a perfect world, you could keep the kerning (spacing between letters), but in reality - when I look at signage that has to span several window panes, I do not have an expectation that the kerning will be preserved because of the any framing that will run through the text - regarding if you choose to put vinyl on it, or space around it. Main thing is that people get the gist of what's being advertised.

I use a 1:1 for alcohol & water - 70% of alcohol really doesn't make a difference to me, so whatever you have on hand will work, or if you're trying to save the 91% for COVID purposes, the 70% will work just fine. Then depending on the how much you're make a drop or two of dish soap - like literally a drop. I typically make mine in a 32oz spray bottle, but only do something like: 12oz water, distill if I have it - it's not a requirement, but sometimes I can get some calcium sediment from my municipal tap 12oz alcohol 1 or 2 drops of dish soap - if I'm using Dawn, then 1, if I'm using anything else, then 2. HTH.

Since you removed the rubber part of the pinch roller, can't you move it to the right, to have both pinch roller on the right side, as suggested by Mz Skeeter? If you don't think there's enough room there, which actually looks like there should barely be enough room, then at the very least, move it towards one side or another, so that it will cause the least amount of potential contact when you feed your printed material.

One of the local auction houses here has an Insta 215. They said that it still works. Amazon also has an multi-purpose one that can also do plates, mugs, and caps for $240 Is the Insta worth a bid? If so, how much? Is there a tipping point where the Insta isn't worth it? From what I can tell, the Insta looks like a workhorse, but also a one-trick pony.

If it's a small run, then I would use the vinyl as a stencil and spay with fusion paint.

Can you run a test cut from the machine control panel?

Bienvenido al foro. Le sugiero que se ponga en contacto directamente con el servicio de atención al cliente de VM, ya que este es estrictamente un foro de usuarios que es aportado por voluntarios. Si te registras como usuario, tu publicación subirá automáticamente y no se demorará esperando a que un moderador la apruebe. [Welcome to the forum. I would suggest you contact VM customer support directly, as this is strictly a user's forum that is contributed by volunteers. If you register as a user, your post will go up automatically and will not be delayed waiting for a moderator to approve it.]

Hmm. I have crafty friends and family who do it all the time. Here's a YT vid, that might help.

I would suggest getting a heat press and using HTV.

Try downloading SignBlazer Elements and testing your machine with that cutting software.

Regardless of the age of the post, helpful contributions are always appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to post your suggestion.

Things you can try and/or inspect: Try changing the blade out again, maybe you have some kind of defect with the blade. Try using a 60* blade. If you're cutting really small text, a 60* will probably do better for you. Try slowing down the speed of your cuts. Check the cutting strip, perhaps it needs replacement. Mine require replacement every one in a while. Check the blade carriage. Make sure that nothing on the carriage is cracked, and is able to hold on to the blade holder securely. I have found hairline cracks in the carriage that would allow movements and cause issues in the cuts. You'll just have to go back to basics and start ruling things out one at a time.

Hola. Posibles cosas para comprobar ... Asegúrese de que los rodillos de arrastre giren libremente y que ninguna de las ruedas esté atascada. Asegúrese de que los rodillos de arrastre estén colocados por encima de los rodillos de presión. Al cortar de un rollo de vinilo, asegúrese de tirar de la holgura lo suficiente para que el cortador no intente tirar del vinilo directamente del rollo (bajo tensión). La profundidad de la hoja también puede afectar esto, así que asegúrese de configurarla correctamente. Háganos saber qué cortadora está utilizando y publique un video si es necesario, para que podamos ver qué está pasando. [Hello. Possible things to check ... Make sure the pinch rollers spin freely and that none of the wheels are stuck. Make sure that the pinch rollers are positioned above the grit rollers. When cutting from a vinyl roll, make sure that you pull enough slack so that the cutter is not trying to pull the vinyl directly from the roll (under tension). Blade depth can also affect this, so make sure you have it set properly. Let us know what cutter you are using, and post a video if you need to, so we can see what's going on.]