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Thanks everybody. I think I've found something that he likes. Sorry for the wait on the reply. Just got out of the hospital. Had a double bypass. Still in bad shape but I'm getting better.

And depending on the design you may be able to break it other places to help hide the splits. A tree for example, you could split off individual branches so that the seams are then where the branch meets the trunk, or larger branch.

That's what I am doing but wanted to know if there was a way to do it in SCALP4. Occasionally there is something that comes up that would be great if I could quickly fix it while I'm in SCALP4 rather that going back to the drawing board or fixing it with Illustrator.

Ok this is the way I would do it on SCALP 4 but it's very similar to 3 also I am running it on windows. Take the VENADO POWER select all of it right click Select appearance Select outline Then decide what you would like for the amount of outline, then select the color which would be red, then click ok Next select the deer head Right click Select appearance Select outline Decide what amount of outline you want select the color which would be white then click ok Once you have that all done click the flip tab to reverse the design. Load the white HTV Select cut with cutter Then on the top there's a box that says cut by color click it Select the white color Select cut Once it's done Load the red in the cutter Select cut with cutter Select cut by color Select red Select cut Weed both designs and cut the VENADO POWER off of the bottom of the white. (Don't cut the individual letters out like the photo shows. It will be a bitch to align all those and keep them when you go to layer them) Lay down the white outline of the deer head on to the garment for 2 second, pull the backer off. then over lay and align the red deer head along with outline of the words. Press for 2 seconds pull the backer off then align the VENADO POWER on top of the red. Again press for 2 seconds then pull the backer off and cover with a Teflon sheet or parchment paper and press the full amount of time. (This is a step that I have adapted, sI found if you leave the backers on it will leave little lines where they overlay onto the other graphics. But if you pull them all off and use the sheet it makes it look great with no lines) Then sit back and have a beer and let your mind absorb what you just did....

Hi Steven, welcome. First of all, let's just slow down, take a deep breath, and approach this logically and calmly. We can start with grammatical accuracy and an overall professional attitude. This may seem like quibbling, but using properly punctuated sentences, adding capitalization when appropriate and communicating in a manner that is business-like, goes a long way towards showing your clients that you know a thing or two about a thing or two, and thus, making money in this enterprise. Beyond that, when you post here we cannot see or imagine anything you are doing at your end, so please describe things in a step-by-step fashion, pointing out what exactly is happening, or not happening, and provide as many details as you can. That would include offering actual files of jobs that you're getting stuck on. OK, with that housekeeping introduction out of the way ---- Have you gotten the cutter to work properly using the simple file that dakota offered you to try?? That is an example of graphic an MH cutter handles well, and I suspect that you're trying to achieve something beyond the basic work that beginners (newbies) should be attempting right from the get-go. This thread is less than 12-hours old, and in order for you to progress towards resolution of your problem, you'll have to make an effort to clarify what exactly is going on.

If you plan to do this sort of thing very often it will be worth the upgrade. This is typically called tiling. You want to allow for at least 1/4" overla[ between tiles so there doesn't develop a gap later as the material shrinks (and it will)

Just for the future, in case you run into it, break apart only does something when there are subpaths. If the art had ever been welded, or unioned or what ever VinylMaster calls it, there would be no subpaths. You would have to use some boolean operation like intersect or difference, and possible another shape, to slice up the art.