darcshadow

Once you get the cut right, weeding shouldn't be too hard. The examples you posted don't appear to be that small and shouldn't be too hard. I know I've done smaller on my MH. Getting the Blade depth correct is the key, that and software that can do overcut and you should be good to go.

I don't understand this problem. I don't use the program but from what I gather it does cut what is on the screen, just the bottom of the screen is not the side on the cutter you think it is. Once you get that straight in your mind it'll all come out just fine. The problem here is, who decides which side of the plotter is the bottom? Is it the width of the vinyl, or the length, if it's the length is it the left side or the right side? Any option works equally well, some like one way, some like another. The programs picked one and it's just not the one you would of picked. As in the example posted above, the bottom left of the screen, is the 0 point on the cutter, moving up on the screen moves the cutter across the width of the vinyl and moving side to side rolls/unrolls the vinyl. So if you just visualize your preview screen rotated to the right 90 degrees it'll match up with what is on your screen. And that would be the quick and simple fix for the programmers, just rotate the entire preview screen.

+1 for Inkscape, and with the new cut extension it is an all in one program, although the cut abilities are a bit lacking it's the only free cutting program I have been able to find.

Just a guess regarding resolution settings, but I would assume you'd want to match your design resolution to the capabilities of the printer in question. If for example the printer can only do 300dpi, then designing something at full scale in 900dpi is not going to do you any good and will force the software to down sample the image in order for the printer to be able to handle it.

I don't know how to fix VM Pro, but if no one else can solve it, you can create a simple batch file that will delete backups every time you start the computer, or you can schedule it to run every so often.

Nice, those look great.

Happy to help

What cutter and software are you using? There should be a setting in the software someplace regarding offset. 0.25 is the standard staring point. Rounded corners usually mean you have to little offset.

Don't know if it's your cut file, or your cutter settings but your corners look a little rounded off. If it's not the file you may want to take a look at your offset settings for the cutter

Could be a software problem I guess, never tired cutting tiles with SB. You could always manually break up the image and make it so that it will fit on your vinyl.

It's about that time to re-watch one of the best Christmas movies ever...Die Hard.

Most likely either a memory or a static issue, I would guess static.

Yeah, when they drop it and can't find it they'll come back for another one. ha!

5A supply won't hurt anything, but for a run that short you only need about an amp, if that. Just an FYI.

Just found this posting of how someone got it to work. Although the preview doesn't work in Windows. So given that, and the only other reason I would want InkCut is for the advance after cut option doing all this to get it to work is quite a bit more hassle then it's worth to me. http://www.inkscapeforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=4987&start=100

Cool, so I was mistaken in my understanding that what is built in was just a version of inkcut. Still though, they are pretty close to the same and the developer of the extension has plans to put a preview window although his posts says he needs some help from a C++ programmer to get it working. I'd like to see the advance feed after the job is done rather than returning to home. If you ever figure out how to get Inkcut working in windows post up. I'd be interested in trying it out.

In order to allow Inkscape to send the plot command directly to the plotter, you will need to install Pyserial as mentioned here, https://www.timewasters-place.com/inkscape-and-plotters-the-3rd/

I believe what is now built into Inkscape is pretty much Inkcut and killed the development of Inkcut as a separate plug-in. Here's a link to the guy that did the development of the Extension. https://www.timewasters-place.com/your-cutting-plotter-and-inkscape/

agree, it's an excellent program and I'd love to keep using it but the overcut ability really is a necessity, especially with budget cutters.

Lighting Ever, http://www.lightingever.com/, has the best prices I've found on LED light strips, under 8 bucks for 16'. They don't come with a power supply, but you can get one from them as well for $8. There are even cheaper power supply options out there if you are comfortable with a little soldering.

If you're talking about the settings on the cutter, they are for speed and pressure. Depth would be controlled by how much blade you have sticking out of the cutter and there are probably a hundred or most post on the forums about how to correctly set the blade exposure. Do a search for them and follow the instructions then it'll just be a matter of adjusting your speed. I run around 150 on mine for standard vinyl.

Inkscape has a built in cut tool with Inkscape 9.1, under Extensions->Export->Plot Takes a bit of playing around to get things sorted out, but once you do, it's a nice option. It only works via a serial connection though.

My only real complaint about SignBlazer is it doesn't have an overcut option, which until recently I never knew how nice that option is. If your cutter has a built in overcut, then you don't need the software to tell it to, but the MH does not and now that I have software with the over cut, I'll never go back. I'm actually using Inkscape to do my cutting now. It's not a true cutting program and is a bit clunky to get to work, but the overcut on it is worth it to me.

Experience, Pay attention to how long it takes you for various jobs at first and as you do it more you'll get a feel for how long a particular job will take you.

Don't know what effect it would have on the banner material, but VM&P Naphtha is suppose to work really well at removing adhesive. It was recommended to me for removal of adhesive from cups when powder coating. I have not tried it yet, so far Acetone has worked for what I needed.