darcshadow

Flat glass, either option should work well. I've not done many that big but I'd probably go with the hinge method and do it dry. I try to do dry installs and typically only do when when I have complex curves or need to get two layers lined up precisely.

631 works reasonably well for sandblasting glass. Guess you need to buy a blast cabinet now to use up your vinyl. ha!

Bummer, that kind of sucks. Does look like it can import images though, so if the design capability is lacking you can design in something else and then import to do the cutting.

What program are you using for cutting? Vinyl Master? Vinyl Master has a really good vector program. VM can be used to create images, although I have not done much in that realm. I got started using Inkscape to create images and have not transitioned to VM.

One point to note, the offset is set in the software not on the machine itself. The test button on the cutter cuts a star/square. This cut will not be affected by offset changes made in your software. You'll want to draw a square in your software and cut that to fine tune your offset. If you don't have some already, you'll also want to add a bit of over cut as well. This will ensure that all the cut lines close. A 0.5mm - 1mm should be enough.

You could cut the roll to size using a saw then just cut sheets from the roll as you need. Would be more convenient for storage. What cutter are you using? Even most craft cutters can make use of a roll even it it's not the advertised way.

Often times it's easier, faster, and better quality, to recreate rather than trace. This is a good example. There are vectors of states easily found, I believe the entire country is posted on the forums some place. Grab that, identify the font and you're good to go.

The problem with colors like that is they need UV light to get that color. If you block the UV light you will not have the same color. They absorb UV light and radiate it back at visible wave length. Block the UV and they can only reflect back visible light so it'll still have an orange color, but it will not be the same bright orange you're looking for.

I think Wilson is thinking more about phrases rather than full up designs. For example, "Git er done", I believe is trademarked, so any use of it would be restricted, however something like "Gone Fishin'", which has been used in several designs and therefor might be considered copyrighted. However simple phrases and slogans can not be copyrighted so as long as the design is original and the phrase is not trademarked, you should be safe to proceed.

Nice.

I've used the greenstar for blasting glass and it works well. So long as you don't hover over the vinyl it should work well enough. You have any sample pieces of stone you could test on?

The problem with vinyl, is that it is a bit stretchy so I don't think you're going to have much luck. Maybe a static cling decal but I doubt that'd work after being covered in paint once or twice. I think you're only real option for reusable would be old school card stock stencils. That limits your design to something that is all connected though so you may have to rework the logo a little.

I've been on Eagles Canyon, fun track before it started falling apart. Never made it down to Houson, but several friends really enjoyed it.

I have no experience with that product but given the thickness I'm going to say no, the MH will not cut it. From the data sheet that stuff is 27.5mils thick which is about 7 times thicker than "normal" vinyl.

Technically any plotter can contour cut, the trick is getting everything lined up correctly. When you say you're not having any luck, what exactly is the problem you're having? So long as the design is not too large or complex the tracking on the MH should be good enough to do contour cutting, it'll just be a matter of getting things lined up right to start.

Did you plug the USB cable back into the same USB port? When you plug it into a different port it assigns a new comm number.

Sort of. You can take any picture and with some work turn it into a vector file that the cutting software can use. The quality of the end result depends on the quality of the image to start with. The best images would be a 2 color black and white. Most vector software have some sort of vectoring tool. Inkscape and VinylMaster both have pretty good ones. The other option is to load the image in your program and manually trace it. Depending on the complexity of the design, the manual trace can be pretty easy and will generally give better results than an autotrace with a little practice.

I'm hoping to find the font that these numbers came from. Need to put names on some jerseys and I'd like to match the numbers if possible. If not I'll just use a standard block font. Anyone able to ID this font from just these numbers?

Awsome! Thanks!

That's just the nature of florescent colors.They use UV light to get that color and as a result they break down faster than other colors. I looked into it once, it's fascinating how florescent colors work.

As I said, if the blade depth is set correctly, it's impossible to cut through the backing. The ONLY way that can happen is if your blade is out too far. It is possible to get an ok cut with too much blade exposed and that may have been the case. Now, something else has changed and it is highlighting the blade exposure problem. Fix that and go from there.

If the test cuts are coming out good then there maybe an issue with the design and/or the software. What software are you using?

I would suggest keep using the test cut on the machine itself till you get it cutting good. Then move on to your actual design. This accomplishes three things, it give you a known good cut design, it eliminated software on the computer, and it minimizes vinyl usage. Unless they've changed the patter, the test cut should be a square, about 1" in size, with a star inside of it. You should be able to easily weed the star without pulling up the edges, or vice versa, weed the edges without pulling up the star. After you pull up the star or the edges, pull up the other so that you can clearly see any marking on the backing paper. At most it should look like you ran a pen over it and put a slight indention into it. If the backing is cut at all you have too much blade exposed.

by cut too much do you mean it's cutting into the backing paper? The ONLY way that can happen is if the blade is not set correctly. Follow mz skeeter's instructions on setting blade depth and go from there. Her instructions are posted all over the forums.

where are you seeing that? If I do a google search for CE6000-120 AP everything comes back withGraphtec CE6000-120 Vinyl Cutter.