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Windows 7 Sure Cuts Alot USB Drive Issue?

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Hi all, 

I just purchased a Titan 3 28" cutter. I am currently trying to figure out which software I want to use. VinylMaster or Sure Cuts Alot. When I install SCAL, and then connect the cutter and then check to see if SCAL can do a roller test nothing happens. I manually selected the cutter in the settings

image.png.8ed4fab673b55cd57afaefd3ba07adff.png

Nothing happens when I do the test roller function
image.png.c1fe3819311fb3811ea9ae1531e837bd.png

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Hi all, 

I just purchased a Titan 3 28" cutter. I am currently trying to figure out which software I want to use. VinylMaster or Sure Cuts Alot. When I install SCAL, and then connect the cutter and then check to see of SCAL can do a roller test nothing happens. I manually selected the cutter in the settings

Nothing happens when I do the test roller function
image.png.c1fe3819311fb3811ea9ae1531e837bd.png

So in this screen shot, were it says "Port", you have <Auto Detect> selected, I would go into Device Manager and find out which port Windows has assigned to the cutter to, and select that port in the software. That's a good place to start. The next question is, is your cutter connected directly to your computer with a single cable (ie. not using an extension or a hub)? The cutters tend to function best if tied directly to the computer, preferably one that isn't excessively long.

Go from there and keep us posted. Good luck.

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Stick to VinylMaster. It's a superior program, and performs like a champ.

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Thanks for the fast replies everyone.

@slice&dice
I work out of illustrator so just basically need to drop my artwork into the app to print. VM looks like its a bit more of a full suite from the site. 

@haumana
I have the printer connected to the pc using a usb cable directly. 
Before  I turn on the the printer this is what I see in the device manager. 
image.png.9b88029c9fdb7b0ef2a559bacd1ed512.png

Once I connect then it adds the USB printing support. 
image.png.077225dac31b562ca368581e89c695fb.png

Then I right click properties I get this: Not sure if this correct port location or if that info is inside the details tab (Which has a ton of options)


image.png.1baf768333b5ae1a87fabf9c45311cbd.png

Info wise I see this one as well:

image.png.03e13b9308355eae67188b50556a7b96.png

 

 

 

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@MZ SKEETER 

Hi, no I did't see an option to download the driver in SCAL 5 during or even after installation process. I looked up some directions on the uscutter site and they had scal 4 which did include that in the menu help tab. But even then, when I looked at scal 4, while it showed Titan's none said Titan 3.

I have the cutter on and vinyl loaded and top roller down. 

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Vinyl Master is a much better software.  Most people use Vinyl Master for cutting.   From doing a little reading, I guess Windows has a driver for it, when you plug it in. .  I don't use either one.   Add your cutter brand/ model, then select DIRECT USB.    I use Flexi software.  lose the word PRINTER,  You cut with a vinyl cutter. It should be file/ cut.  You only use the word PRINTER if you are using ink. 

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You'll have to keep banging away at windows configurations with the aim of getting the correct PORT to be identified for your cutter (not a printer). This happens to be the #1 issue with cutters, they are a bit wonky with windows, and not true "plug & play" because you have to figure out which Com is being assigned.

 

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Thanks everyone, I'll give uscutter support a call on Monday and post back on the driver issue. From what I have read they have pretty good support. 

Looking at my "cutter", the original owner did a few cuts just to make sure the machine was working for me. He was using oracle 615 and his design had a lot of small circles. For the most part the cuts came out ok expect for the small circles. I saw a ton of lift on those sections. I have to change the blade on the machine. While I was cleaning up the deck today I also saw that the tape running on top of the cutting strip was a bit unstuck which may be causing some drag. Also noticed today that the cutting strip on the right side is a bit cut up. 

What do you guy and gals think? Should I replace these right away or do they still have some life left? Looking at the strip, I am assuming he has his needle down to far as there is some indentation of the actual plastic (it's not just the tape on top that is torn)

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The tape on that cutting strip should be removed -- it is just 'protective' covering and is not supposed to be left on when operating. The cutting strip surface should be just the white nylon, smooth.

Take that cutting strip, remove it entirely, flip it around 180* and reattach (with some double-sided tape underneath). The scratched portion will now be to the far left, which is usually beyond the area you'll be cutting within, from the right side.  (and if you are routinely cutting large designs that reach that far over, then order a replacement strip).

As for the COM port, yeah, USCUTTER should be able to connect remotely to your computer and get that sorted.

If it were my unit, I would be running it with VinylMaster anyway, not SCALP, but that's your call. Going from Illustrator and importing to cutting software is an extra step that you can avoid by just knocking out your work in VM to begin with, it's very similar interface to Adobe and isn't that difficult to learn the ins and outs of it.

 

 

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Thanks slice&dice,

I'll give that try. I saw one of the uscutter tutorials mention tape or glue. I'll give that a try.

I see that VM does have a light version that looks like it's just for cutting. I do all my artwork in illustrator moving on two decades now lol. So the cutting software would just be for dropping and resizing possibly in terms of work flow. Are there specific things that can be done in vm that can't be done in ai?

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Remove the protective plastic on the cutting strip. See if the cutting strip has any deep cuts. If there are some deeper cuts in it, you might want to flip it over, or replace it. I always have a new replacement cutting strip on hand just in case.

Lifting on cut vinyl can be caused by several things, or a combination of them - too much blade depth, too much pressure, cutting too fast, broken blade tip, etc. If you're going to cut smaller things and/or more intricate designs, slow the cut speed down and you might want to consider using a 60* blade. I personally prefer the 60* from Clean Cut Blades, they last me forever.

I believe has a trial version you can test drive before buy, so you might want give that a go.

Keep us posted.

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The $50.00 "CUT" version of VM is the entry-level.  (The 'trial' or 'demo' version mentioned by Haumana above is offered for download to explore the features and interface, but is cutting-disabled).

You asked about choosing between SCALP and VM, and I gave you an answer (my opinion). Illustrator is a fine design program, to be sure. Just as Inkscape can also be utilized for vector graphics, it's up to you regarding what application to work within while putting together cuttable files. If all you need is a functional way to get that cutter to work/communicate, then SCALP is sufficient (once you sort out the COM issue).

I'm not a graphic designer. My work consists of text-based signage, single color lettering primarily, for banners, vehicle door magnets, window decals, job-site signs, simple things like that. My primary way to get my work accomplished is through an old software (that used to be provided with all US CUTTER machines) called SignBlazer Elements.

I dont think you have a 'driver' problem, you likely have a COM selection problem.

 

 

 

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I dont think you have a 'driver' problem, you likely have a COM selection problem.

 

 

 

This cutter Titan 3, has True USB.  It should be connected Direct USB. Titan 2 and Titan 3 both have TRUE USB.  Restart your computer, after the driver downloaded.   Possibly try a different cable.

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You don't know how the previous owner set their blade depth, but this is the correct way.

To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct. 

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Just wanted to thank everyone for all the info in this thread. Today I redownloaded the latest version of scal 5 and it seemed to fix the problem. I am now able to communicate and cut with the cutter just using the auto setting. So exciting! 

@haumana thanks I took off the protective tape. I also rotated the strip, and I noticed that the strip is held down by double sided tape. Assume that it came like this from the factory since the tape above had the vacuum holes punched perfect.

I did a few practice samples using ORACAL 651 (2.5mm vinyl) and a small logo. I changed the pressure and speed a few times. I am still using the old double sided tape till my new tape comes in and the blade that is in the unit. Tip is ok and not broken. 

Thanks @MZ SKEETER I did a few tests today using a logo (2" x 5") to try and dial in the pressure. I am still seeing some lift. I just rotated my strip around. Will keep trying to dial in my settings. Should I be using a logo to dial in the cutter or a simple shape like a box or maybe a star. 

What does everyone like in terms of vinyl cutter blades? I will need some 45s and 60s. I have seen that some of the more pricey ones are made of cemented carbide. The blade is probably the most important thing. Any tips and tricks or recommendations here? 

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Clean Cut Blades are hard to beat and last a long time. And a lot of people go with the 60 degree blade and just use it for everything. Unless you're doing a lot of relatively low detail designs, the hassle of switching back and forth between 45 and 60 is just not worth it.

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Vinyl lifting is not force, it is too much blade exposed out of the blade holder.  We really mean it, when we say, the blade should be so far in the blade holder that you think it would not cut at all. Then you use force.   Best to cut slow until you learn your cutter.

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Clean Cut Blades are hard to beat and last a long time. And a lot of people go with the 60 degree blade and just use it for everything. Unless you're doing a lot of relatively low detail designs, the hassle of switching back and forth between 45 and 60 is just not worth it.

That would be me in a nutshell. :lol:

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Clean Cut Blades are hard to beat and last a long time. And a lot of people go with the 60 degree blade and just use it for everything. Unless you're doing a lot of relatively low detail designs, the hassle of switching back and forth between 45 and 60 is just not worth it.

I concur. But by that same token it is also a bit of a old wives tale about the 60deg being so much better. There are also trade-offs with them also being easier to break a tip.  I use a Summa and the standard factory blade is only 36deg. I can tell you from experience that I can cut basically every bit as small with the 36 as I can with a 60. Now, when it comes to thickness the 36 is limited and as you work into thicker materials the amount of blade shoved into the cut does in fact come into play and will mess around more in extreme corners. But for basic 2 and 3 mil vinyl you are probably good to go with whatever you want. I'd try both and see if you find any difference. I DO wholeheartedly support the vote for Clean Cut blades, they will outlast the cheaper blades. A quality blade TAKEN CARE OF meaning staying out of your cutting strip will give you at least 6 months of regular cutting. I have been running on the same blade for 14 months.(summa blade but similar quality as the CC) So long that I misplaced my stash of new ones and I started to get worried and ended up ordering some new ones Ha ha. The others will turn up but we moved last year and I haven't found them yet. 

I like you am a AI designer and no there isn't really anything that can be done in other design programs that is missing in AI. They used to have one over on Illustrator by being able to do true block shadows but with the new updates Illustrator made to let that happen it's as good as it gets. I used to have to build those manually and it was a bit more time consuming. I DO agree with people that Illustrator is a bear to master, sort of like learning a reverse polish calculator I guess. But once you figure it out I really have no desire to spend time on other programs. 

I am a Mac guy and I use Sign Cut Pro 1 which is outdated and hard to even find these days. I own a dongle that I paid a few hundred for about 10 years ago so no subscription fees. It's a bare bones cutter interface but has most of the cutting bells and whistles that the highest versions of the others have. It works on both platforms (Mac and windows) which comes in handy sometimes but you have to own a dongle to quickly change between computers. They have Pro 2 out now and if my dongle ever dies I'll probably consider going to that upgraded version. 

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wildgoose brings up an interesting point -- "(haven't replaced a blade in so long that) I misplaced my stash of new ones and I started to get worried and ended up ordering some new ones, Ha-ha."

Common problem, and I did the same thing, that little plastic container of blades vanished into a drawer or box somewhere.

When a new set of blades arrived, I used a strip of Alien Tape and affixed the container right onto the back of the cutter end-cap.

 

IMG_0402.JPG

IMG_0401.JPG

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