Turtlemechanic 4 Posted December 21, 2012 Not sure if this will help someone or not,it was knda fun to do . . . I recieved my 34 SC cutter yesterday evening (I ordered on tue) Very good job with packing After labels where stuck on the box,they wrapped it in very heavy plastic and banded it,they even folded the ends down so water would run off and not in!Very good job with packingSo I unpacked it and was upset that there wasn't an assembly sheet included,I really wanted to read the 2nd grade chinese Spanglish everyone talks about...oh well I laid all the parts out and they all looked like they were there so I proceed to assembleFirst casters, easy with a 1/2 wrench,notice the holes are tapped after welding nuts so no problems laid out the screws 4 machine screws for the roller mounts and the rest self tappers notice end of extruded tubes have 4 "grooves for screws to thread intothey line up with 4 holes in caster plates Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turtlemechanic 4 Posted December 21, 2012 get all 4 started before tightening downnow you'll have 2 legs donenow lets put the cross beam in placeit helps to tape the screws to a bit before trying to get them into the sides do otherside and wallamount the roller mounts towards the back of standI had to redo these since the first time they went on back wards...no big deal roller lines up now.next was to mount the plotter/cutter remove the 4 rubber feet (save screws for reinstall)notice same screw holes as before mount both plates to top of leg up rightsand set plotter on top and reinstall screws from rubber feet into holes that feet came off of next 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monkey 252 Posted December 21, 2012 They have videos online for set up of each cutter they sell and the downloadable manuals. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slice&dice 2,451 Posted December 21, 2012 The roller brackets don't go onto the frame like you have pictured -- the incorrect views are totally unecessary in this "tutorial" (Yes, you repositioned them later on, but why offer these wrong illustrations at all here?) Also, I noticed that you have no mention of grounding the cutter to the stand with a ground wire. (The bottom of the cutter has a clearly-marked ground screw, and it's probably a good idea to utilize it and create a good connection to the frame with a wire) I smiled at your photo of the wine glass! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BannerJohn 1,324 Posted December 21, 2012 Thanks for posting this. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monkey 252 Posted December 21, 2012 Sadly even their video dont show anything about grounding it either. I only knew because I read it multiple times on here before my cutter even got here. Then when it got here I saw the grounding screw on the bottom. But it didnt come with any wire, but again that wasnt a big deal. The video does specify on the mounting of the roller brackets though, to make sure you get them on right the first time. This was a very detailed write up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turtlemechanic 4 Posted December 21, 2012 I wasn't expecting this to be a pic by pic tutotial...so I will take it apart and redo some pics this weekend and edit it. I hope this doesn't come across wrong....When I attatched the plotter to the stand I used 4 screws into the same surface that the ground lug uses so I have 4 ground connections to the stand correct? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monkey 252 Posted December 21, 2012 Only if the paint was scratched off the stand at the hole. The paint actually seems more like powder coat so that would limit the connection even more. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turtlemechanic 4 Posted December 21, 2012 I thought that I was trying to control surface buildup of static electricity? Since all pcs are Powder coated that means all powder coat would have to come off on all joints before assy. to give the whole frame a good ground. as assembled the grounding your getting is strictly from P/C removed by threads and the bottom of the screws as they are tightened down Static electricity follows outside the powder coated frame right? So exactly what are we trying to accomplish with grounding? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monkey 252 Posted December 21, 2012 nevermind then.....enjoy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slice&dice 2,451 Posted December 21, 2012 Hmmmmmmm, I went back & looked closely at how my SC unit is attached to the stand, and see that the screws that attach the unit to the brackets go through the rubber feet, and then through slots in the bracket, and don't appear to actually come in contact with any bare metal on the stand. So, yes, a wire is needed that attaches from that marked bolt on the bottom and touches bare metal (I used a self-tapping screw into the stand) forming a ground. By the way, I don't think you need to go back and disassemble the entire thing just to take new pictures, just delete the two photos that show the roller brackets placed on wrong, and the series you have will be fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turtlemechanic 4 Posted December 21, 2012 Okay,makes since now. I removed the rubber feet all together Should I put tem back on to isolate vibrations etc. And I am putting a wire frm lug to self tapper in frame also. This makes more since with rubber feet attatched Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slice&dice 2,451 Posted December 21, 2012 I seem to recall that the screws securing the feet were very long and didn't screw into the base of the machine properly without the rubber feet there. Also, one thing I should mention while you're screwing around with screws --- Take a look at these postings: http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/37334-sc-issue-vinyl-crumples/?p=284146 and http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/36439-liyu-sc-gets-up-and-running-my-1st-impressions/?p=283267 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turtlemechanic 4 Posted December 21, 2012 I first tested them by flashlight and calipers,then threaded in by hand...no clearance issues. And thankyou for links,I actually have read a lot in 2weeks before purchase and printed those posts you made for reference last week :smile: I am going to stay with no rubber feet since we removed them years ago frm our plotters at work. They print smoother w/o them the head,base and stand would vibrate differently with them installed. Thank you for words of advice I picked up a serial card today on the way home from work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slice&dice 2,451 Posted December 26, 2012 Y-W. Let us hear back from you as things get running. You seem to be a real "hands-on" guy and can contribute to the forum with tips and tricks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turtlemechanic 4 Posted December 27, 2012 It's been hectic week, but luckily I got sick yesterday and had time to fool around with the cutter As for setup I read the stickied thread and it was a help (thank you CRD) I had a couple issues which I will start another thread on. So I needed something to cut, Slice and Dice was nice enough and hooked me up with an EPS I was looking at I opened SCALP and hit the import button,choice the EPS I wanted and walla it was there. I resized it and using the program (at it's most basic form...I have a lot to learn) I loaded vinyl and hit cut...poof my sticker was made. I had no idea what speed and pressure to use, since I couldn't figure out how to change the plotter from metric So I fiddled and wrote down specs and cut a few stickers and compared them. So I spent some time manipulating the turtles around and moving and reshaping the legs and had a template of 14 turtles laid out I went with a speed of 400 and pressure of 20 After research on this site I went with Oracal 651 in turtle green A sheet with 14 turtles cut out cut them apart into seperate decals applied the medium tack paper to them and squeeged out air bubbles and this is what 80-ish turtles look like (only about 60 more to do) notice on the left I saved abunch of the outlines to use as sandblast masks So many thanks to the folks that have helped out a newbie "hobby-ist" Now onto another post because I need some help LOL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turtlemechanic 4 Posted December 27, 2012 I took about 13 min to cut out the 14 turtles (about 2-3/4 x 3-3/8)that gave me enough time to cut them out and apply backing before next batch I havent reset the blade depth since it looks good,the major pc of "weed" came off in one pc with no pullups and the paper backing hardly has a scratch in it 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted December 28, 2012 sounds like you got it dialed in! congrats Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beancarolina 0 Posted January 5, 2013 save yourself some time and tape the whole sheet before you cut the individual items. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT57 135 Posted January 31, 2013 i see i have a lot of reading to do. i am on the verge of buying a cutter this week and am expoloring this site. Thank you all for the tips. I will need them to set up. Any preferences to the SC series as opposed to the MH . Really want to go pickup on Friday Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slice&dice 2,451 Posted January 31, 2013 Be aware that Turtlemechanic was drinking a little bit while doing this (you can verify this, because the wine glass is right there in the photos) --- he made a mistake when putting on the vinyl-roller brackets, and the flanges and roller holders need to be facing OUTWARD from the legs, not inwards as he initially assembled them. Although this error was acknowledged later in the thread, I want to make sure you understand that his photo illustration is wrong. These are the pictures that show the incorrect way to put them on! He has them reversed, facing in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turtlemechanic 4 Posted January 31, 2013 mmm...thank you,I thought I had removed those? So I will say they are on backwards in those pictures I will take a correct picture and fix it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turtlemechanic 4 Posted January 31, 2013 y !!!!!!!!!!!THIS IS THE CORRECT OREINTATION OF THE ROLLER BRACKETS!!!!!!!! correct way and Slice and Dice I apoligize for the other pictures right sideleft side !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!THIS IS THE CORRECT OREINTATION OF THE ROLLER BRACKETS!!!!!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites