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Blade question

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I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this question so I apologize ahead of time. I bought a used Roland GX-24 last June and it came with a couple of really nice 45 degree blades. The seller mentioned that they were Roland blades and run about $30-50 each. It cuts beautifully, sharp edges and I automatically assumed that the quality came from the upgrade to the Roland and not so much the expensive blade. I was wrong. I've tried the typical Chinese/Japanese junk you find on Ebay on this machine and it cuts like shit. I've concluded that in my case, it's all about the blade. I'm having a hard time trying to find the exact blade. Can someone steer me to a good quality blade that will work? I'll post a picture of the blade I'm trying to find tonight. These blades all look the same to me.

Thank you

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Doesn't look like USCutter sells them- I thought they did. H&H has them over @ signpile.com - buy 4 get one free. Shipping and whatnot is reasonable.

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I have used the cheap, chinese blades from ebay and have worked fine for me. Is it possible you have too much blade sticking out? that can cause rough cutting.

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The blades USCutter sells for around $4 each is all i have used & they have worked great . BannerJohn has posted that all he has used is the regular blades & he has been cutting vinyl longer than anybody i know of . Some of the reflective/specialty vinyls take a toll on the sharpness of the blade , but Oracal 651 takes forever to dull a blade in my experioence . I have been involved in metallurgy most of my life & don't see how any blade would be worth 4 Xs + more . I like doing the most with the least , putting more money in the profit column .. that is why I am a USCutter customer :) .

I agree with the previous post , blade setting is probably not adjusted correctly .

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I have used the cheap, chinese blades from ebay and have worked fine for me. Is it possible you have too much blade sticking out? that can cause rough cutting.

Hmmm, maybe my idea of "half the thickness of a credit card" is not the same as everyone else. I'll lower it even more and see if that helps. I took a picture of the two blades. The fat one on the left and the silver registered trademark it cut compared to the skinny one and the rough gold vinyl blades.JPG .

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1/2 a credit card it really too much, best way, take the blade holder out of your machine and in your hand cut firmly across a piece of scrap vinyl. you should only cut the vinyl and no marking in the wax paper backing, Adjust blade. to get there.

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Then when you install the holder , test cut WITH plenty of pressure ...& adjust blade depth to where there is barely a mark in the backing paper . I suggest at least 90 grams pressure . USCutter lists genuine Roland blades , but not in stock today ... $15 each . I cut with low pressure starting out , using that to adjust the cutting depth . It was very inconsistant . After reading Ken advise to use minimum 100 grams of pressure & adjusting the blade less & less ( MUCH less than 1/2 of a credit card ) , perfect cutting .

Edit ; mb20music .. add a " s " & you would be correct :)

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Hmmm, maybe my idea of "half the thickness of a credit card" is not the same as everyone else. I'll lower it even more and see if that helps. I took a picture of the two blades. The fat one on the left and the silver registered trademark it cut compared to the skinny one and the rough gold vinyl blades.JPG .

Both of those cuts look pretty bad, is your offset off? a Roland should cut way better than that.

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Most people who try cleancut never go back to Chinese blades - with that said you have to try them to know the difference. personally I have used both and now use cleancut 60 degrees in the Graphtec and Roland. I changed to them back when I had my copam and it made a big difference. Search for comments from actual cleancut users and see what they have said . . . . The results are very clear with almost all dissenting comments from people who have no experience with them

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I don't think I have been dissenting towards Clean Cut Blades . I have always listened to experienced people all my life to gain the value they have learned without actually going thru the lessons . I read where Banner John has always used regular blades . John is as practical & realistic a person as I have ever communicated with . I have learned many valuable lessons from him here about cutting vinyl & perspectives about life itself . I have said many times , that I can't see where any blade would be worth 4X more than another blade . I have that same philosophy about a Cadillac compared to a Chevrolet . I am sure Clean cut blades are superior to regular blades , as are the genuine Roland blades . I have an extensive background in metalury & welding , I have a commercial knife sharpening machine & have always been keenly interested in razor sharp utensils . I can't sharpen a drill but worth a damn though :( . I would never say the lower/medium grade stuff is as good or better than the top of the line models in any product . I would not say buying a new car every month , every year , every several years etc is as good as keeping a car for 10 + years , but if you want to get your money's worth out of anything , there is a practicality level that each decides . I had a buddy who bought a brand new Chevrolet truck in 1987 , top of the line 3/4 ton with every option . He had the dealer put synthetic oil in it . I don't remember what that cost then, but many times more than regular oil . I told him he would be better off using regular oil & changing it often . He told me the synthetic oil was actually cheaper in the long run as they said to change it at 20K miles . Later I read a test that said using regular oil & changing it at factory advised mileage was better . My buddy started changing the expenesive oil at the what the factory stated . When the truck got to about 100 K miles , the engine was worn out , using oil & smoking . It might not have been from the synthetic oil , no real proof , but IMO ... that is what killed it . I don't spend more than what the job calls for . I have several old pick-up trucks that are not as nice as the new trucks some of my buddys have , but they do me a great job & I am not afraid to work them . Not many people would take something newer & do what I do with my trucks . Like cutters , it seems from what I have read , a Gerber is the top of the line . Many different quality levels down to the entry cutters . After seeing the $200K + printers at the sign shows , seeing some companies refuse to use vinyl & finding someone to hand letter their stuff . It seems overboard to spend many times to make what can be made for much less , unless it makes that person happy . I am like what I assume most members on here are , frugal with my money ( what draws the majority IF not all customers to USCutter & it's forum ) & enjoy doing the most with the least . That is why i stocked up ( about 100 blades ) on e-bay when I found auctions with no minimum ... I don't mind taking a minute or 2 & change a blade . Especially for newbies who make more mistakes , ruining a cheap blade is less frustrating than a blade 4X the cost . My brother in law has a BIG machine shop filled with expensive CNC machines etc , with 30 employees etc . He has the same philosophy about buying cutting bits . That is my take & I don't want to be argumentive . Just my perspective , especially for people starting out cutting vinyl .

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I kinda have to agree with the OP. All I have ever used is Roland printers / cutters. I've used many blades from other manufactures throughout the years but I find the the OEM works best in all my printer cutters. I can also say they last longer than the aftermarket blades. I purchase all my blades, cut strips cunsumable parts directly from Roland. Heres a start http://www.rolanddgastore.com/

As far as $30 to $50,..for a blade?? that would be a mistake. I buy 3 pack for $44.99. from Roland.

Not trying to steer anyone away from UC, but I been there done that with aftermarket and OEM equipment cunsumables...

Hasen't been quite a month yet since I started purchasing from UC and I have to say I'm pleased with the prices and service! Already made three orders with them. Third order should be here tomorrow fingers crossed :)

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Rodger, relax you must be assuming I mean you because you have no real world experience with them - relax man the world is at peace . . . .

please stop yelling with the big blue type and long rambling on that has no relevance, some of us speak from actual experience with products and comment on such. Calmly quietly. woosah

Be at peace brother

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If you have

an extensive background in metalury & welding

then you should understand the difference in blades and cutting tools? Cheap tools in a machine shop is not a way to profit at all. Metal cutting is nothing like cutting vinyl and buy using inferior products in machinery like that all you do is create additional tool pressure, stress and magnify machine wear and fixture weaknesses. The metal cutting theory should be enough to steer you in the right direction if you have this kind of a background.

All products are not equal and output varies greatly from tool makeup and composition. Like using the same roughers in a 12L as a 304. It will work but man, what a waste of time.

The grade of Carbide in a CC blade alone is worth the price difference. Better materials, better finishing, edge retention and consistency from one blade to the next.

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Rodger, relax you must be assuming I mean you because you have no real world experience with them - relax man the world is at peace . . . .

please stop yelling with the big blue type and long rambling on that has no relevance, some of us speak from actual experience with products and comment on such. Calmly quietly. woosah

Be at peace brother

Scott , Thanks for caring so much about my tension level !!! I am sorry the font, size & color I am using upsets your tension level . I am not using all caps so thus not doing any yelling in " internet " edicate .

If you don't understand , reread my posts , as I only speak of my experience . I am willing to back anything I say up .

I am at peace , thank you . Nothing you can say to or about me can upset me , it only makes me chuckle . You are 1 of the most 2 faced people I have ever had contact with . You were a very nice person/member until you went bonkers & started attacking USCutter & Marcus repeatedly . I tried to give you advice ... I supported you staying around when they wanted to rid the forum of vermin . John gave you advice . You have trash talked USCutter on at least 2 other forums constantly . You then have the nerve to use USCutter's forum to sell things & to keep posting here . I don't consider than being honorable & really don't care to interact with you in any way . I did not post any of the previous posts in any way to concern you . I have not responded to any of your posts in quite awhile because I see no reason to . I would like you to do the same . In other forums , you have joined just to attack a post I made that had nothing to do with you . The way you badmouth USCutter , it must have been something quite bad to hurt your feelings so extensively .

You don't surprise me in anything you say or do . Just like the video you posted . I figure you being a prison gaurd , you know from experience that noise is made giving & getting what is being done in that video . Whatever you enjoy , ok with me .. I just don't like to see or watch video's portraying it .

As always , you remind me of this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ckxb6Mn-as4

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If you have

then you should understand the difference in blades and cutting tools? Cheap tools in a machine shop is not a way to profit at all. Metal cutting is nothing like cutting vinyl and buy using inferior products in machinery like that all you do is create additional tool pressure, stress and magnify machine wear and fixture weaknesses. The metal cutting theory should be enough to steer you in the right direction if you have this kind of a background.

All products are not equal and output varies greatly from tool makeup and composition. Like using the same roughers in a 12L as a 304. It will work but man, what a waste of time.

The grade of Carbide in a CC blade alone is worth the price difference. Better materials, better finishing, edge retention and consistency from one blade to the next.

I have only seen average grade cutting blades .. I have not seen " cheap " blades in the Dollar store etc . I consider the blades that come with Copams etc regular grade blades . I know that some miilion dollar a day business might buy the top of the line grade cutting bits etc for everything , but as i said , my brother in law , who is partners in a massive machine shop in Baltimore ( they own many 1/2 million dollar CNC machines with many other very expensive machinery , a 300' X 300 ' machine shop filled with cutting equipment ) .. use regular grade cutting bits . When cutting some things that are very hard they use the upper grade cutting bits . I figure that most people posting on this forum does not have the type of business where taking a couple minutes to change a blade hurts the productivity , I assume if they have that type of business , they don't have the time to post here & are supervising their 50 employees instead .... :) . The beginner type people & part time business people might be more inclined to make mistakes & ruining a $4 or less blade is much more logical than ruining a $16 blade . I know the regular blades hold up well & having bought them on e-bay with no reserve , I have more than 50 right now with less than $1 each in them . I advise anybody to take that route or even at $4 each to still take that route . My opinion & real world experience . Cutting regular vinyl is E-Z with regular blades .

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yes and no

i will completely agree with rodger on not seeing the benifit if all the extra money on blades. but this isint my livelyhood. im not running my cutter 40 hrs a week straight to support myself. changing a blade isint a big deal.

otoh, runing a high production machine shop, id completely disagree. tool changes take time, and time is money. its not just bolting a new tool in and go, its bolting the tool in, set the tool sizes and offsets, run a test program, double check and measure everything, ect.

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I stand behind my past post on this forum that have been far more help to more people with less filler and distraction overall. we all have a few bad post but overall the post have been helpful. Please quite trying to rattle the hornets nest when there isn't anything bad going on. I always try to be helpful and truthful in my post,.

My original post did not invite a response from rodger it was giving a users opinion. then I was personally attacked. this is against forum rules

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Please keep interactions with others on this forum civil.. closing post.

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This topic is now closed to further replies.