kenimes 42 Posted November 8, 2011 Ok- not related to sign making, sorry. Great community though, and thought I would ask. Any vehicle mechanics out there? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr300s 1,272 Posted November 8, 2011 Ok- not related to sign making, sorry. Great community though, and thought I would ask. Any vehicle mechanics out there? Thanks! A little bit of a shade tree whats up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rodger 527 Posted November 8, 2011 Hey Ken , I have alot of experience on the older stuff ... electronics & newer stuff , not alot . What's the problem ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenimes 42 Posted November 8, 2011 New battery last week, and alternator tested fine when battery was replaced, but car died on the way to work today, while going 60mph on I-5. First the stereo went out, then dash lights got dim, then no more power. Coasted down the off-ramp and parked on a side street, and she would not turn over again- like a dead battery. Let it sit for a couple of hours, went back, and she did turn over, but barely. Weird thing is that when it died, even with the ignition off, and key out of it, the dash lights still flickered and I heard the clicking as if I were trying to start it. I am thinking a loose wire or short in the electrical system? 10a alt. fuse was OK, but I guess there is a bigger alt. fuse to check, just wont be able to search for it til I get home. Blah! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenimes 42 Posted November 8, 2011 Hey Ken , I have alot of experience on the older stuff ... electronics & newer stuff , not alot . What's the problem ? Yea, my father is the same. Mechanic back in the day, but not so wise with the newer electrical stuff. Called him first... lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BannerJohn 1,324 Posted November 8, 2011 Yea, my father is the same. Mechanic back in the day, but not so wise with the newer electrical stuff. Called him first... lol new battery..first thing I would check is make sure the connection is TIGHT. I had this happen to me. Guy didn't tighten it enough. But,in theory..if the battery dies while you are driving, the car should still run if the alternator is good.Sounds like an electrical problem somewhere. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenimes 42 Posted November 8, 2011 Oops- just noticed the typo in the thread title....should be Mechanics, not Mechnics. Der Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rodger 527 Posted November 8, 2011 new battery might have taken a crap or the alternator is taking shifts . Sometimes a bad battery cable making contact intermittently . Sounds like you can charge the battery with jumpers enough to drive it home . I was 50 miles from home & had to stop a couple times to recharge the battery ( at night ) to save a tow bill . Rereading your post , it may be the starter is locked in & has not disengaged ... that runs the battery down quickly , burns the starter up & usually melts the cables battery posts . I suggest removing the battery cable when parking until you figure it out .. nice time of year for a bon-fire , but not an expensive 1 like that would be Take a precision instrument ( hammer ) or a steel rod etc & hit the starter , that usually lets it unlock . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenimes 42 Posted November 8, 2011 Ahh yes, I had an older Ford Ranger that had starter issues, and can remember many a time crawling under the truck to bang on it with a wrench. Turns out, one of the bolts was stripped, so it was not securely making contact upon start. Just checked, and I am fresh out of marshmallows, so no bon-fires until I get those replaced! Batt cables are as tight as can be on the posts, and sprayed with a lovely red goo- i'm thinking to prevent corrosion. Got the crap all over my hands. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rodger 527 Posted November 8, 2011 I would keep a wrench handy & take a cable off when parking . When the battery is charged fully, a stuck starter continues to crank the engine , but when it is low , it just clicks the solonoid , That is when the battery cables get really hot & sometimes melt or the posts themselves . Charge the battery with a cable off & when you hook the cable up , if the starter is stuck , it should really spark . I have burned up starters on big diesel trucks & equipment trying to start themn with low batterys , it welds the contacts in the solonoids & keeps cranking .. the race is on to unhook the batterys before damage is done . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mabscotthandyman 1,410 Posted November 9, 2011 Sounds like the alternator to me. A good alternator will run the car with no battery installed actually that is how I check them by unhooking the positive terminal if the car stays running the alternator is putting out enough power to run the car. The test they do at auto parts stores like Auto Zone and Advance Auto are questionable at best I bought a refurbished alternator and the alternator light came on and the car quit I took it back to the store they ran the test and said it was good so I bought a new battery and after a while driving it went dead so I took the car to a auto electric repair and they tested the alternator and it was faulty it was replaced there and never had any more problems 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vinylmotivations 143 Posted November 9, 2011 One other problem that can cause funny things is the PCM/ECM--- Oddly enough in newer vehicle the engine control functions and powertrain/controls are all ran through once central computer now instead of being divided up. Just too much for one stupid circuit board to handle. May be a PCM/ECM issue--- This would explain driving fine- to no start, and then start in 30 minute conditions as well. Also if the battery/alternator tests out find and you can find no other wiring issues. Also in the main fuse box under the hood, there is a circuit board there too i believe. This can become corroded and cause issues as well Thinking devils advocate here is all - batteries and alternators are simple fixes- but recently with a family members chrysler van we had these exact same symptoms and it played out exactly like I had guessed. When it was driving did it shift fine/ok and where it was supposed to in the power band?? Also has anything other goofy happened like odd idling or rough running, poor fuel consumption etc? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rodger 527 Posted November 9, 2011 I am told the old way of unhooking the battery cable to see if the alternator will keep the engine running can do evil things to the newer electronic vehicles . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RickS 39 Posted November 9, 2011 Kenimes: what year nissan? let me know and I can email you some wiring diagrams and help with diag. I do this for a living for the past 28 years. It sounds like you have an alternator problem but also could be a fuse in the charge circuit that may be blown. let me know and I will try to help. Rick BTW: I am in Washington State, south of Olympia 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rodger 527 Posted November 9, 2011 Good going Rick , Ken is 1 of the nicest people I have " met " Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr300s 1,272 Posted November 9, 2011 I would make sure the battery is good. Not unheard of to buy a new battery to find out it has a dead cell. Another thing was the new battery fully charged? A alternator normally cant charge a dead battery up fully and if you were running a lot of things it is draining more than it can put back in? In any case a direct short is unlikely on a newer vehicle I would be looking at the charging system Battery and Alternator etc. ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenimes 42 Posted November 9, 2011 No other odd-ball idling issues, or rough running. Thanks Rick! It is a '96 Nissan Altima GXE kenimes@hotmail.com I live in North Seattle, but have an uncle with a big family Imes ranch down in your neck of the woods- out by Cinnebar/ Onalaska. Another uncle in Lacey on Pattison Lake. Make it down that way sometimes. Anyhow- really appreciate that. Also, appreciate everyone else offering suggestions and help! This community is still top notch! Car died again on the way to work, but this time, right next to an auto repair shop. Guy has been there for 28 years, so I think he knew a bit more than the turkeys at the Les Scwab tire shop that checked the alternator when they replaced the battery. He tested it right in front of me, and sure enough, it was only putting out about 8-9, when it should be closer to 14. So, I think the alternator is the actual culprit (fingers crossed). Had it been a short or wiring issue, or problem with the PCM/ECM- then we would be talking bigger $$. Thanks again!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RickS 39 Posted November 9, 2011 Ken, looks like you got it sorted out, I think you have found the problem. only 8 volts just won't do it. If you need any diagnostic info or wiring diagrams let me know. I will be glad to send your way. Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenimes 42 Posted November 9, 2011 Ken, looks like you got it sorted out, I think you have found the problem. only 8 volts just won't do it. If you need any diagnostic info or wiring diagrams let me know. I will be glad to send your way. Rick Thanks Rick, will do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BannerJohn 1,324 Posted November 9, 2011 Thanks Rick, will do. On the road again...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenimes 42 Posted November 9, 2011 On the road again...... Willie Nelson is one of my favs! More like Joe Diffe's "If the devil danced in empty pockets" after this repair though. :-\ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deth502 39 Posted November 9, 2011 the mechanic is likely correct in replacing the alternator. the other thing thzt could have been an isue is corrosion on the battery terminals. it dosent matter how tight they are, or how clean they "look", tehy should be taken off and wire brushed, both inside and out, and if they are replacement ends, the wire taken out and both sides of that cleaned too. if they are the factory ends, there can still be corrosion between the wire and the ends internally. like i said, your problem sounds like an alt, and if it tested at 9v, then that proves it, however, id clean the terminals as well for the reasons mentioned. also, you should NEVER hit a starter with a hammer. this will work on older vehicles with traditional starters, but anything made in the last 2-3 decades will have a high torque magnet starter on it. the magnets line the outer collar, and are very fragile. if you HAVE to tap it to start it, drive it immediately and directly to either a garage or the place where you will be changing the starter, because theres a very good chance that will be the last time it starts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deth502 39 Posted November 9, 2011 btw, the newer starters will usually just not shit out, most of the time they will begin cranking slowly, so if it seems like your battery is dead when cranking, yet without the engine running you have full power to all accsys, you had better get ready to change a starter. if i only had a dollar for every starter i changed in a parking lot, of parked along side a street somewhere, between myself (yes, guilty of ignoring the signs, twice!!) my family, the vehicles at work, ect.... id be a rich, rich man. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rodger 527 Posted November 10, 2011 I agree that hitting the starter is not a good idea .. unless it is locked in . If you don'r get the battery cables disconnected in time , the starter burns itself up , melts the cables or battery posts ( i have watched it ) plus can burn itself up . I had a bobcat starter stay in after I started it... ahile afterwards it stalled & the battery was dead . i put a fresh battery in & it started cranking immediately . i smacked the starter & it disengaged . It was fried anyway & I wound up replacing it . Even the old starters have magnets inside & I was meaning hitting as in tapping , not wailing it . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
