jarrotto

+ 1... My CE6000-60 is excellent. I think it is inevitable that some may experience problems with their cutter even when its a high end brand. I think many times its due to software issues or user error which you cant fault Graphtec for...

good idea

In illustrator go to view > outline. Then zoom in to check your paths.

Welcome from North Carolina.

Welcome

That was a good post Wildgoose. Something else that can be very helpful is the Adobe Illustrator Classroom in a Book series. The books also deal with print and web graphics, but if your serious about learning illustrator it is a good read and will teach you the basics. I learned illustrator with the CS6 version, it came with a disc with start files and you did tutorials to learn the program. I was already familiar with Photoshop so some aspects of Illustrator came naturally, but i learned the program much faster with that book than i could have on my own. http://www.amazon.com/Adobe-Illustrator-CS5-Classroom-Book/dp/032170178X/

Great job!

Welcome from NC

Looks good - fun bright colors which work well for Halloween.

Welcome from NC

Like djque said watch craigslist or take a road trip to Knoxville TN. http://knoxville.craigslist.org/ele/4585364845.html Edit: Sorry that one is over budget.... But on the plus side it looks like they are desperate to sell it... So maybe the deal can get even better!

I know from my own experiences and same mistakes of using too much blade... It can be amazing how the smallest adjustments to blade depth can make a huge difference when it comes to weeding. Too much blade can turn all weeding into a nightmare. Eventually I thought i had the blade depth set right because everything was easy to weed. BUT i was still using too much... I found this out when applying decals. The backing paper will start to rip away and come up with the decal you are working with, usually the same perfect shape of your decal which makes it a pain to apply. I had to take an exacto knife and carefully peel the torn backing paper off. Especially watch out for that when you are selling decals for your customers to apply! You don't want to hand defective decals off to customers like that. I almost made that mistake selling ready to apply decals, but luckily i tested a few before i sold them. In fact that also happened on my first lettering job with 751, i had cut the vinyl too deep... so then i had to carefully to peel the ripped backing paper from the decal, while still trying not to look like an idiot in front of the client. In the end i did look like an idiot, cause i ended up having to redo one door (it wasn't perfectly straight). I just let those feelings roll off, cause i still felt pretty good since it was my first job. We did 2 trucks that day, and man it gets old real fast when the backing paper tears like that on each letter your trying to apply.... You will learn a lot more as you go. This is how i ended up learning just how much thinner 751 is than 651. Too much blade is also why your 751 is being lifted off the carrier in your pictures. 751 has a shelf life of 2 years so it should still be good. Eventually you just kind of get the hang on exactly how to find the right blade depth. It does make it even harder when so many had said the rule of half a credit card thickness, which is a very bad way to set the depth. Each material will be different. Good luck and just keep going. I have wasted a bunch of vinyl on mistakes, and still sometimes do, but i know i am learning more and getting better everyday.

MSRP $21,995 - Chump change... haha

Solvent / Eco Solvent for anything outdoor. Cheapest new printer is Mutoh VJ628 - ~$6800, or you could buy one used.

I usually always do a wet install with any lettering / graphics on vehicles. My routine is to clean with rubbing alcohol first (i have a spray bottle filled with it). Next i clean with Rapid Prep to remove any grease, wax, etc... Then i clean with rubbing alcohol again. I do all of my wet installs with Rapid Tac or Rapid Tac 2. I usually only use Rapid Tac 2 if its cold or very humid. I have never used the homemade application fluid solution, I tried using Splash application fluid and personally had a very difficult time with it. Then i tried Rapid Tac products and they have worked great for me so far. I order Rapid Tac products from Beacon Graphics since USCutter does not carry them... I wish they did. You might want to give them a shot. Good luck on your project.

That is a great suggestion darcshadow.

Glad you got it all worked out. That is interesting they are not selling Roland anymore. I figured something must be up when a refurbished / demo BN20 is the only Roland printer listed on their site.

Silicon pad if your doing tiles or other uneven surfaces. Teflon cover sheet or parchment paper for HTV. Blowout paper if your doing sublimation - to catch waste ink so it does not get on your press. Heat resistant tape. Heat press pillows if you are doing hoodies or apparel with seams, buttons, zippers, etc. Purchase from: Coastal, Conde, Stahls, BestBlanks, etc...

If you really want a plotter with this capability you could upgrade to a FC with Ethernet. Maybe you can get some other type of wireless print server to work but I don't think it will be as reliable as a direct connection. Hopefully you can get it to work, I wish you the best of luck.

I'm sorry I should have wrote that different. It was what their electronics signage was printed on, I didn't see any for sale.

I would just pic something clean and easy to read Helvetica Neue... Or something similar.

My vinyl and app tape can get messed up pretty fast if the a/c is not running. The humidity here sucks and really takes it's toll on supplies. That's probably the culprit or at least part of the problem.

I bet it's like FrznFire07 is saying. I just saw some at Walmart and thought about this. It was super thin and flexible, could probably be rolled up

I haven't seen anything that thin. PVC from my supplier stars at 1/8 inch (3mm)

It has worked well for me in CS6, CC, and CC 2014. Just save your work before you launch the plugin, every now and again it tends to crash. Sometimes i have to work a little bit more to get a clean contour cut line. There is probably an easier way then how i do it... I copy my object and paste it in front, then i use the shape builder tool or the pathfinder tool and merge any shapes inside of other shapes i don't want cut individually. I change the fill to a stroke with a bright color that is not in the artwork. Then i change the stroke to .25. Then object > expand. Add registration marks: File > Cutting Master 3 > Registration Marks. Use the layers panel and hide the bright colored cut stroke. Print it. Un hide the cut stroke and then send to cutting master 3. Then on configure cut job, (which is practically the same as graphtec studio) deselect all colors except for the cut line and cut it.