Cal

Thanks for your report and findings, Cal

Welcome aboard, Cal

Here is a chart that may help the op and other newbies. Do not know where it came from, I am sure this site several years ago. Cal Lettering_Readability_Chart.pdf

There you go again... You are super for making this offer Primal Cal

Looks darn nice to me Monkey Cal

Looking good! Be sure to post more pics when the project is complete. Cal

Nor I... http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_dado.html?zoom_highlight=dado Cal

Don't feel bad Go-C... I had to post this question up on a woodworking site I am on to get the answer! Prior to planing the board to 5/8" I use a Forstner bit, and stop just above the 1/4" level. I then clean it up with a dado cleanup router bit. It is a top bearing pattern bit but very short. About $15 at MLCS. This bit in a small trim router makes it quick and easy. Cal

Thanks folks. Goose, I have found a larger water bottle similar to those shown is an pretty good match for the regular 16 oz. glasses that do a lot of. And, my wife brought home one of those "big gulp" or something like that plastic cup from one of the conv. stores. An excellent fit for Yeti mugs. When I first started doing glassware I was spending so much time wrapping them up, and even unwrapping - that was the longest and most tedious part of the job. Here is another tip for doing the wrap. It does not matter much where I start wrapping the masking tape around the glass, but it does matter where it ends. I always wrap that tape until it is a good ways from my stencil. When the tape is ended above the stencil it gets sandblasted and will be difficult to peel off, it will want to rip. When it is ended away from the stencil you can start to peel it off and "most of the time" it will peel cleanly off away from the stencil also. I do a lot of glassware and the tip above has sure made my life easier (and more profitable). I really do not like to do coffee mugs because I haven't been able to find anything similar I can do with these. I bet that I can wrap, blast & unwrap a set of 4 glasses in the time it takes me to wrap one coffee mug. Cal

Additional questions for you. I think the polyacrylic is water base? Is your stain water or oil base? What vinyl will you use? I think you could, but if you put water base product over a water base stain, it might affect the stain underneath. I would try on some scrap first. Cal

welcome aboard cal

Welcome aboard, Cal

Welcome aboard Rocky. If that was your first go-around with a cutter I would say that you done good! Before offering much advise, what type of computer are you using & what operating system? Did you design the project in SCALP, or some other program and import into SCALP for cutting? Was your design totally inside the grid "cutting mat", or did some of it hang outside the grid (off the mat)? Can you post up your file so that we can see it? I think that SCALP3 is pretty much WYSIWYG, I say "pretty much" because there are times when my machine will not get every cut. Prior to cutting vinyl I always use the pen tool and check my new design on paper. Cal

Yeah boy! Be sure to post up the final product!!! Cal

I guess I would ask why you want to get between the designer and her client? I would go in one of two ways. In your case above, I would say the designer is your client. You make the product to the specs given and invoice the designer and give the product to the designer. What and how much she bills the 3rd party is not your concern. The other way of dealing with this designer is to simply pay her a *finders fee* or commission for bringing the client to you. You then deal directly with the client and if it results in a sale a fee is paid to the designer. Cal

First off, welcome aboard. As to the problem with your MH cutter, did you purchase it new? If so, the warranty should cover the parts you need. Regarding the differences between the MH and SC, I do not know all the differences. I think you will find a lot of people with either the MH or the SC that have gotten great service from them. I have an SC model, I purchased this one because I can use it with my Mac whereas the MH cannot be. Cal

If you are cutting the same path over and over, it sounds like you have multiple layers. I am not familiar with Flexi. In SCALP I can usually spot the extra layers because the cut lines will be a light gray, but the multiples will be black. Also, on any new design I always use the pen and ink to draw out the pattern first. Cal

Thanks Go-C, Cal

I cannot help with Signblazer either. Try making a request in the Signblazer forum how to export to the desktop. I am sure it is something simple, but I do not use it... Cal

Primal and mm - you can import svg, ai, eps and pdf (with vector points) into SCALP and cut them. But it will only save the project as an svg - go figure. There may be other formats it will read and cut too, but I only know of these. Occasionally when I am working in AI, *something* goes wrong that I cannot figure out. Sometimes I can save the same file in eps and it works fine. Cal

Welcome aboard, Cal

Welcome aboard James, Cal

Go-C, what material (and where to get) are they and how have they held up - for how long? Cal

Those are all pretty cool! Cal

Slice, I did a search on Identi-font without any good hits. Therefore, *you run what you brung*, I looked through my font library to find something I could use (I do not have SB). I do not think it took more than 15-20 minutes for me to shed the serifs and get it presentable. Cal